I'm using the same barrel but in 600 mm. The 25.39 JSB's are 916 at the muzzle, 651 at 100 yards per the app,
The 22 grain Hybrids are 949 at the muzzle, 926 at 100 yards.

I'm very happy with the performance, figured the slugs would retain more energy at distance, but was surprised by how much.
I'm just interested in the speed you are using for your pellets. It appears it improves your shooting out to 100 yards.

I just got my barrel recrowned on the lathe. I removed the last inch. After hand lapping and removing choke around 2185 or.219.. I just got some 18 grain JTS pellets at .220 diameter... Too my surprise they shot decent at 50 yards no choke.. The Apollo 28 grain slugs were too small in diameter soo I powder coated them with industrial silver got them up in size....The slugs aren't shooting that bad either...super slow wrong diameter super thick ugly powder coat. The powder coating did make enough diameter difference to use.....I learn things every day..

update - got the R7 last night and couldn't be more happy with it. Shot off a bunch of rounds and still can't believe how cool it is!
I am going to pass on the R1 for now....I need to stop and figure this one out and admit that I may need a scope, can barely see the target at 13 yards

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@Contndr35BB. LOL, yup you are right about fumbling with loading the pellet in the dark, been there, done that. Hence, I didn't use it much when I first got it. I did, however, shot a couple of rats with it when I had mounted my Pard007S on it once. My scope at the time had too much zoom 6x and that didn't allow me to see a wider field of view. I would need a scope that is at least 2x with the Pard007S. sometimes the pest just wouldn't cooperate, lol. You will get them eventually. Good luck and have fun.

bigHUN said:

You shall see what makes a total disaster with Hungarian even cia decided to hire locals instead

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Hungarian is the most difficult language, fortunately most Hungarian people have a knowledge of English.
I've visited Hungary over a dozen times.

Some good field target shooters from Hungary.

NAProf said:

Hi Guys,
Your comment on the "Stock" hammer weight and 150bar got me thinking. First, I don't know what the "stock" hammer weight is. I have two Crown MkII and I bought 1 new and 1 used. The new one came with no extra hammer weight. In fact the spring carrier had a long shaft on it to keep the spring from binding. That effectively prevented adding any hammer weight. The second one came used, with a .30 380mm barrel and the Power Upgrade kit (pin probe, tungsten weight, and a different spring carrier). So what is "stock"? Is it no extra weight?
I have since added the upgrade spring carrier to my unmodified Crown and also added the 13 g Huma brass hammer weight. I shoot this rifle in American HFT at 90bar to get my .177 13.4 gr pellets to fly at about 820fps. I am getting single digit ES and StDev and have managed a 200/200 with 17x's on the 30 yd Challange target (here on AGN Target Forum). So I would say it is possible to shoot the Crown below 150 bar with a hammer weight.
I think what most folks forget about adding hammer weights is that the shape of the head of the weight plays a big role. The Huma weight I use has a 4mm long head with a larger diameter on it. That will cause the hammer spring to compress 4 mm more than it would with no weight. That is about the equivalent of turning the Power Wheen from 1 to 21. This means that the best thing to do is to adjust the Internal Hammer Spring screw back out 8 turns (0.5mm per turn). Now the difference in projectile speed is purely due to additional hammer weight. In my case I did a bunch more adjusting to find the rifles happy place. I can absolutely say I found that my ES and StDev 's were significantly smaller with the extra hammer weight than without.

Cheers,
Greg

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I use the same 4mm head tungsten weight you use, but I cut off 15mm of the end going into the spring so it did not colide with the stock spring guide. But maybe ill Just try to trun the internal screw in again first as say.

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I tried the 13.43s and was surprised to see that they performed well. Shot an 11-round magazine at the lowest setting with a 436 fps avg. (5.67 fpe). I was really pleased with the regulator as most shots were 435 or 436 and one was 438 and another 439. I’m happy with the approx. 1/2 in group at 20 yds given that I’m at the lowest setting. I’m sure it would do better at faster speeds, but I don’t think I could get away with the noise that comes with the higher setting. I’ll need to see if it’s effective with starlings and house sparrows come Spring.
Here is the 13.43 group at 20 yards, lowest setting (green sticker):


I think the 15.89 gave me a little tighter group at the lowest setting even though there was more deviation in speed across the 11 shots (from 401 - 409). The average was 405 fps (5.79 fpe). Here is the 15.89 group at 20 yards, lowest setting:

The two shots outside the group were sight-in shots.

I’m leaning toward sticking with the 15.89 even though the 13.43 might give me a flatter trajectory. The 15.89 accuracy is more than acceptable for me given the speed I am shooting, and I’m thinking the 15.89 will do better at higher speeds for when I’m not shooting in my backyard. The 15.89 is also probably going to be more versatile for use in my other PCPs.

Here’s some photos of the Ranger:





Also, on the four power settings, there doesn’t seem to be a significant difference between level 3 and level 4. Here are averages across the 4 settings shooting 13.43.
Setting 1: 437 FPS
Setting 2: 612 FPS
Setting 3: 702 FPS
Setting 4: 708 FPS

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Nice shot and pics! Your Dumerils boa will enjoy that meal .

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Centercut said:

Isn’t this the 4th annual event? 2021, 2022, 2023 for the first three.

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Thanks Mike, it's a good thing we have you youngins out there to keep us old farts moving in the right direction I fixed it on the announcement thread.

Thanks and happy holidays to all!
Wayne

Get a Maverick VP .30 and I tuned mine in an hour. It's pushing 50gr H&N Slugs II at 930fps.

I'd get a GX compressor, long story, just my opinion. Also, guy was a dud, the rule is that they can overfill 10%, in the beginning to allow for cooling of the tank later, and the lower pressure. That is the DOT rule. But, I've also heard the same BS from dive shops that have some "surfer dude" filling tanks. You are correct, a few hundred psi more air is not a big deal. If you have to deal with this shop, I would have a polite conversation with the manager/owner and get the straight poop on how they fill and kind of get yourself known to them. Shops are more likely to accomodate someone they feel comfortable with. Also, a second tank is a good idea, fill one, leave one.

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I bought an Acecare 9L tank off their e-Bay store a few weeks ago and it seems great so far. I wanted a tank with a metric thread (18x1.5) as I had valves in that size.

They sell it as both a DOT and CE certified tank (the rest of the world uses CE certification), with the CE being cheaper by over $150. I went with the CE tank for a couple of reasons.

1) The tanks are almost certainly the same tank. The standards are so close that one tank would easily pass both standards. I don't know this for a fact, but it is a very logical conclusion. I believe the difference is in the label, and the costs of "obtaining" the certification - the physical tanks are the same.

2) In the US, one needs the tank to be DOT certified if you want to fill at a dive shop. If one fills on their own, this is not needed. Of course to keep filling a DOT tank after 5 years the tank has to be recertified via a hydro test.

3) We airgunners are very low stress users of these tanks. They are made for 15 years of constant full range pressure cycling, fast fill rates, and tough service in burning buildings. We use a small percentage of fill range (admittedly at the top end of the pressure range) much less often, tend to fill them quite slowly, and baby them, so our usage puts much less wear and tear on the tanks - especially on the fiber wrapping and epoxy coating. If we keep moisture out by filling only with appropriately dried air, then our tanks are living a charmed life of luxury.

4) In our usage, I think the most abusive thing we can do to our tanks is to hydro test them. This action leads to a full drain and significant overpressurization of the tank. If we are not having it filled at a shop, and know with certainty that we are not letting any moisture into the tank (and I have verified that in my fill set up), then one has to ask if this is really not only necessary, but even wise if it is not needed to get fills. Of course if we want to, we can always do a good visual inspection at any time (I've done this on other tanks I have to verify my fill set up is doing what I calculated it was doing).

I did think about it long and hard. I considered the DOT tank so that I could get it recertified if I ever wanted to get out of filling it myself, but in the end I decided that is highly unlikely - personal compressors are only going to get more capable, less expensive, and more common. So I kept the savings and went with a CE tank.

I can't speak to Acecare's valves as I did not get one. I am using a Saber Tactical valve with their adapter for the metric threads. But I do like their tank and rubber boots.

@TargetOH , Hey Jeff, That’s great news about adding N50 matches at Fairfield. I’m going to try to make it to a few of your matches this coming year.

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Is say a rematch, I wouldn't buy a Db meter.

Magnum12 said:

How much do they run.. if I have to spend a little more cash I guess I can....

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$1799.

https://tenaciousairguns.com/product/kaliburgun-cricket/

Re: custom RAW from Martin- ordered one in .177 a couple weeks ago & he quoted ~12 weeks. It's my understanding he moved equipment to a new shop recently, so a bit longer lead time than usual

Excellent condition set of Eagle Vision rings with a few attachments.

Asking $60 shipped CONUS. PayPal F&F preferred.

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I am looking to trade my FX Crown MK II .25 (it does come with a 480cc CF bottle) for an FX Wildcat mkIII in .22 or .25 preferably a bottle version.