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N/A  My biggest aggravation in PCP guns ..so far..

Bumping the barrel /shroud and having impact changes....

My first PCP was a simple Marauder. I noticed no issues with POI changes when handled. I bought a Diana storm rider for fun just to shot invasive birds close to the house. I noticed it would shoot a few inches left or right at 50 yards for no apparent reason. I finally realized if I bumped the barrel, it would go wacky. I got the band to attach to the tube and barrel. It was worse since it would bind and lock the barrel in whatever position it was bumped. Now realize. I am NOT taking a hammer to it. just leaning it up against a window frame or laying it on the carpeted floor. I bought a Avenge X next. Same aggravating issue.

Some will say, just shoot it to confirm zero. BUT, the main reason for an air gun is to shoot invasive birds off my purple martin housing at about 30 to 50 yards. I need it dead on at all times. If I shoot my sight in steel (near the martin housing), I will scare off the poop bird. If it is too far off, I might damage my martin housing which is worth 3x the air rifle!!

With my Aveng X; It was suggested to take off the band connecting the barrel/shroud and the tank. This works...BUUUUT eventually the recoil made the shroud slide past the little detent screw that hold it to the barrel!!! The *&%^ shroud is tight and I need to get it off some day with heat and more force. I am currently using a aftermarket band on the shroud and tank. It is ok, but I still am not confident on it holding zero.

I am looking to upgrade from the AVeng X. It is VERY accurate. need to shoot the 30 yard challenge. I think It could do ok. If I spend $1500 buck or so for a higher quality rifle and I end up with the "don't touch the barrel" bs I will throw it in the creek!!

Believe it or not I DID do a search on this topic. I see it appears to be a "thing" and I am not crazy. I would THINK a bullpup design that supports the barrel more would not have this issue...but I don't know if I like the looks of a bullpup. The RAW and guns like it with a skinny barrel hanging out there forever just worries me.

So my search is for a dead nut accurate .25 (.22 2nd choice) at 50 yards that can take a bit of bumping around. I would like it to be right up to or close to being used in accuracy competitions. I have won a few bench rest matches in the past with a powder burner, so I am drawn to the crap like a moth:rolleyes: I could pound the barrel with a hammer and not worry about it shooting 2 inches left/right for no reason....

I am fine with a used gun (leak free) looking at the FX Wildcat 2-3, FX Maverick. The huntsman but the barrel band scares me for bumpies. The FX DRS is intriguing, but I have not seen a lot of reviews yet.

Free for opinions.. Thanks
Get a barra 250z…. I roam the hills of SW Utah with it constantly. It even rides shotgun in the car with me sometimes even though it’s not a truck gun. It’s powerful, crazy accurate and it looks cool…. I bump it almost every day and no POI changes.
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The PNotos Project update.

if you are going to use a linkage for the trigger, hit up your local Hobby shop, they should have model airplane control rods and clevises/Heim joints that would work great.
Didn’t even think of that. Thank you for the suggestion. Right now I’m going with a basic mechanism that uses a rod to push the trigger. If that doesn’t work well or maybe even for version 2.
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Huben  Observations Shooting Huben GK1 V3 - Offhand

Someone suggested that I shoot some 10 meter targets. Today I did that from 10 yards. I didn’t do so well. I did shoot an almost perfect bullseye which was pleasing to see. I shot mostly 5-shot groups.
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These were the better groups. The group at the bottom was my best today. I noticed that my last four or five groups opened up wildly and I don’t know if it was something I did or if something is going on my my GK1. I’ll figure it out another day. If my groups look like they’ve been looking, then it’s likely something I was doing.
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16.5g Varmint Knockers performance on Jackrabbit

20.2? Those seem to work for me as well… 2 house sparrows today and for the first time with these slugs (going 980 fps), didn’t recover the slugs but judging based on the birds… well… big puff of feathers and damage way beyond a .22 hole.
Yes. At 965. Thwacked a cotton tail head on, through the top of the head and stopped just above and right of the spine. 45y. Looked just like an HP2. First time I’ve had NSAs open. I’ve made dozens of kills with the 17.5 too. Never anything significant expansion wise. Until now. 1015 muzzle completely flattened out.
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Epic  Epic Two velocity problem

I know the problem, your hammer adjuster is loose. There is a small grub screw on top just before your stock attachment, the center one. It controls the spring and bb that notches into your hammer adjuster. When you shoot, it starts backing out and loses tension on the hammer adjuster allowing it to spin with every successive shot. You need to snug it up, not too much as you don’t want to crush the spring, get your hammer adjusted where you want it, then back out the grub screw and add either vibra tite or blue loctite just a tiny bit and screw back in snug. That should keep things in place.

N/A  Pcp to break barrel

Notos .25, low cost, adequate power and light enough for a 9 years old. Can be upgraded for more power. Used can vary, depends on upgrades.

Airforce Escape UL or TalonP more power than Notos. More expensive (500-725 new) Under 5lbs. Very easy upgrade to a lot more power. Single shot. Probably find a used TalonP for $200-$300.

Springers are out for 9 years old.

Diana  High quality German engineering........

I bought a Diana Outlaw Gen 2, engineered in Germany and manufactured in China under German supervision over the winter. I would put this incredibly accurate and well engineered PCP against any other manufactured PCP at twice the cost or more. On my 4th tin of heavy JSB Exact Monster 13.43gr .177 pellets....the folks at our range not only tried it, but several purchased during the July 4 discount period. Yes incredibly accurate and scoped. I also have a Diana Airbug pistol .177 that is an accurate as anyone else's CO2 or PCP or whatever you care to compare with. Yes German made in China. Just watch the Airbug videos! I even bought a silencer for $30 made in USA (Houston) that make the report sound like spitting tobacco. Just a ball at 30 yards, open adjustable iron sights and 2 stage trigger.....amazing. Have fun complaining about top quality Chinese products.

FX  Another firearm guy falls victim to the airgun bug !

As it gets harder to be a powder burning enthusiast here in California. Air rifles is great alternative in staying in the game.

Yep, the soul suckers in Sack-0-Tomatoes haven't quite gotten around to air guns yet. "great alternative" is entirely dependent on you tolerance for abuse, generally self-inflicted and the balance of your funds to support the addiction....errrrr sport. I'm in the South Bay Area.
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Newbie question on controlled filling of air rifle

I worried about filling my Prod from my Yong Heng because it only stores 60cc at up to 3000. I quickly learned that it still takes most of a minute and is very controllable. Now I use the YH to fill a bottle and fill guns from it including the Prod. That can be even faster but is also very controllable. Fast fills are undesirable anyway. The air heats up and then you don't have the pressure you think you have. Best to go slow.

How to "field dress" your hogs and other game?

Please don't torch the hair on other animals. Skinning most animals is fairly easy with good knives and a place to hang them. It's tougher in winter when they typically pack on more fat. Torching hog hair works for because people eat hog/pig skin separate from the meat. It's faster than dipping them in boiling water and scraping the hair off. Raccoons have glands that need removal or the meat tastes funny. Dressing mammals is pretty straight forward. Internally we're pretty much a tube. Remove the tube.

Crosman  Can you name any of else 2240 modifications?

when i got to Blue fork back in the day they were hardly making any part and the 1911 frame was not on their page at the time
i wanted a raw frame and they made one or had one they hadn't set out to anodize
at the time i was working on a Cothran piece that had been start by someone else and that rabbit hole with the Nickel Swift scope would was at the time over 800.00
so, the grip frame
Blue Fork was about 120.00
adapter was about 20.00
and the Harrett grips that are selling for 200.00 now were about 75.00
so just for that apart you have over 200.00
the scope a 2-6 x32 is over 300.00
did i say rabbit hole
now the barrel was covered in stainless tubing
and the rest of the Cothran stuff is slow disappearing he as i believe has stop making parts
the hay day of the 2240 builds are gone plain and simple
the small part suppliers are gone

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