Motorhead said:

See: High Power .177
This was my first R&D of the .177 at a much elevated output over what the caliber typically sees. Yea a Real beast & so dang much FUN to shoot !
Have done this now 3 times with different rifles & all were a great success IMO.

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Fun read, I WANT one!!!!

TheBeardedGunsmith said:

That would be a very simple job. I looked at the thread to get an idea of what's done and I can promise my machine work looks much better than what that individual got back. Not trying to be mean but honest.

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That sounds great! I'm not sure what the forum rules are about conducting business on these public forums, but I would like to discuss this with you. I don't have enough posts to initiate a private message conversation, but I can reply if you PM me. Please send me a PM and we can talk about it. Thanks.
Frank

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I dream of a 750 match.

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google says it is a PAO group IV and here is amsoil desc of groups

backyardrange said:

I think the Nova Liberty and Venturi Avenger use the same pellet probe from the youtube video I saw. Wonder if this is a common defect. Material seems like a real cheap cast aluminum, it isn't ferrous.

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Definitely worth looking into... Good call!

All my best!

Kerry

p.s.

First, I would try to find out why the probe "broke" in the first place. I have never broken a pellet probe and I think finding out the reason is the first line of inquiry/action to take before replacing it only to have it happen again.

I have two Accu-Tac BT12's and one BT13 mono-pods. They work fine, I just don't use them any more. $50 each or $125 for all three shipped lower 48 states, PP F&F or buyer pays fees

Mufasa said:

I’m hoping someone with a .30 cal chimes in as well…I saw some impressive slug groups with the .30 cal

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It seems the G30 is an excellent rifle for the price. I’ve heard there were bolt to barrel alignment issues or something like that. Also read that slugs were hard to seat, some had to open up the chamber into the rifling a bit to get slugs to seat properly without beating the bolt forward. These are just things I’ve read and have no first hand experience with

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I will make another post when the taipan cheekrest had completed with pics of the process .
The rti is shooting knockouts .25 at 905 fps lr barrel. 130bar with digital gauge at the rear

PNEUMATIC said:

Thank you for the heads-up. When a company fails to offer reliable customer service, they usually dont last long.

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I have the original that came in 50cal ammo can. Works great.

sorry it's for the .22

Poor Mike! He still owed me a six pack...
Oh well.

Looking for a Diana 48 in .22. Doesn’t need to be perfect, but in good working condition. Let me know what you have.

Thanks,
Rich

Positioning the radar around a barrel is less important then having reflecting walls that creates echo.

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SenseiSmash said:

Unfortunately, the spot where the broken male end feed into the booster pump its quite a bit large diameter than the female QD end.

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Sorry, figured worth a try. Hopefully, all works out for you. WM

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TN_Yankee said:

What do you do with all the dead lizards?

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Freeze them and sell them.

I have to admit that after I clicked on the title, I was expecting to see a Leica LRF binocular.

Treks said:

The Leshiy is second hand to me, but I believe it was made around May of last year. I find the length of pull to be just a little on the short side, however it did come equipped with the 350 bottle. My cheek weld with a scope sitting directly on the rail in front of R2D2 feels fine and is repeatable, however I do have to hunch over to achieve it.

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You comment about the scope sitting directly on the barrel reminded me of something. I have Leshiy Classics in addition to my L2. The Classics have that offset shroud so it can be hard to pick out scope heights based on listed scope dimensions.

I had various pieces of thin plastic or wood that I would stack under scopes to make sure the objective cleared the shroud. I would then measure the stack which would be the minimum saddle height for any given set of rings. Add that to 1/2 the scope tube diameter to get minimum height to center measurements required.

For the L2, same would apply to the ocular clearing the R2D2 head.

starlingassn said:

impact m3's are a piece of cake to tune.......
"edit" (this is for pellets)

1. start with the valve adjust out past the 4th line,and leave your wheel on 16.

2. turn up your micro till your velocity stops rising.

3. click the wheel down 1 number at a time,
-or-
turn the micro down a few clicks at a time till velocity drops about 10-15fps
(since the macro and micro adjust the same thing,but do it in different increments,
you can choose to do either,
on my m3 it seems one click of the wheel = 4 to 5 clicks on the micro)

4. slowly turn the valve adjust in till velocity drops another 10fps or so.

5. enjoy your tuned impact or fine tune more if you wish.

do the same thing any time you increase or decrease regulator pressure to find a decent balanced state of tune.

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Always curious on how others tune, thanks for sharing!

I like to "fingerprint" a PCP for a particular projectile...

With the valve dwell or transfer port full open, I'll start with 100 bar on the reg and minimum hammer spring I'll increase the hammer spring tension and shoot until I reach the flat of the power curve and note that setting. Then I'll increase the reg pressure by 10 bar and repeat the process until I get to 150 bar.

Then I can plot the points on a "Knee Graph" knowing that my option velocity will be 5 to 7% less.

One I have a couple of Knee Graphs for an airgun I can see how the system is reacting and make a good guess at what settings should get me close to a balanced tune.

I usually do this type of testing at night so I can check the projectiles stability at the same time. Setting your parallax focus to 35 yards and shining a floodlight diagonally across the the shooting lane (leaving the backstop dark) works well.

Cheers!

Youtube recommended these videos for me.

spywiz said:

I have seen a pic (somewhere, can't find it) of a very nice suede soft leather slip over cheek pad. This pad simply appeared to slip right over the top of the cheek riser of the impact m3. Does anyone know where I can find one of these, of if you have a pic of one? Thanks.

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lots on amazon and ebay