i can't answer your question as i'm new to the sport and know nothing about all of this....that said I thought it might help others if i did a google translate to english:

Hello everyone, I am writing from Italy and I have been thinking about the Steyr Pro X for a while. I have HW 100, Kalibrgun Cricket, carbines and Diana Stormrider, always 4.5 mm and under 7.5 joule. I like shooting without support and in sequence and I think a semi-automatic would be a lot of fun. In Italy the only carbine under 7.5 joule (for higher energy you need a gun license) is the Pro X, but, apart from the outrageous cost, I don't like the weight of the trigger, 500 grams. Mine are all under 300, and I like them that way. Is there a way to make it lighter? Steyr says it is technically impossible. Thanks Mauro

I did find this thread that discusses this topic:

I also did an AI search and it stated the following:



Adjusting the trigger pull on a Steyr Pro X requires understanding its unique design and features
.
1. Trigger Blade Adjustment:

• The trigger blade itself can be adjusted by loosening a countersunk screw.
• This allows movement of the trigger blade left or right and longitudinally, adjusting its position relative to the shooter's finger.

2. External Adjustments (for fine-tuning):

• Once the trigger blade is set, you can use the externally accessible adjustments for further fine-tuning.

Note on Pro Hunters vs Pro X:

• Keep in mind that information regarding trigger adjustments on other Steyr models, like the Pro Hunter, may not apply directly to the Pro X.
• For example, the Pro Hunter has a single adjustment screw that affects both set and standard trigger weights, which might not be the case on the Pro X.

Disclaimer: These instructions are based on online forum posts and general principles of trigger adjustment. Always consult your owner's manual or a qualified gunsmith for specific instructions and safety procedures for your particular Steyr Pro X model.

Subscribed.

Get the donny tatsu

Bayward, Thanks. I'll do a 50/50 mixture when I refill the coolant tank.
Slicknick, I did a JB Weld repair so we will see how that works. Like you said there is no real water pressure. Air Venturi did reply to my support email and gave me a link to where I can buy the replacement shroud in case the repair does not work.

Now I need to do a Goggle search and see if I can find the torque specs for the cylinder head screws.

johnwoitalla said:

Who are "they?"

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Arken

@Bramezy sadly, it doesn't look like I'll be able to attend this year. Bad timing on my part.

item #6 is the screw that holds the airtube in,,, watch a video where the guy used an extended magnet to hold it in place till he inserted the allen wrench to hold it, before he removed the magnet,,, allen wrench was the long side with a ball head,,, just a tip I though others might want to know with HW 44 and 110

ddkroetz said:

I am ashamed to admit it. But you are right I had it on backwards. I looked at some pictures and videos and realized what was going on.

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Classic, we’ve all been there! At least it works now, it really is a easy to use unit.

Ok people, do not try to overthink zeroing, just follow 2 simple rules:

Yes, for zeroing scoped (air)guns there are just two (and only two, not more!) things you need to memorize and make it a fact you can remember and recite in your sleep:

When you aim at a target, you want the bullet (or pellet/slug/bb/whatever) to go to that specific place, so if the aimpoint and the POI are not in the same place, The bullet point of impact (POI) needs to go somewhere; it needs to move to the point you aim at. (Simply because that is where you aimed at because you want the bullet to go there to that specific place!

So the 2 rules are:

1. By dialling the turrets you steer the bullet/POI where it needs to go (not the reticle and not the target, you steer the bullet!)​

2. If the bullet/POI needs to go Low and or Left you turn the respective turrets cLockwise.​

That is all you have to remember! Just make it a mantra: Low and Left is cLockwise, Low and Left is cLockwise, Low and Left is cLockwise (3 L’s after each other)

(and yes if you need to go Up and or Right, you need to dial coUnteRclockwise, but again, you do NOT need to remember that, as it logically opposites the Left, Low, cLockwise rule!)

This is it, it really is as simple as that!

Hope this helps somebody…

@Michael I’d seen the advert for this cocking system geared towards speed shooting competition, but I didn’t realize how it functions. Thank you for this short vid.

dmont said:

I emailed Altaros a couple months ago about their boosters. Here's their response:



A shame, but understandable. And nice that they shared the extra context.

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thanks for the update. I’ll have to keep an eye out if they come back in stock. Not in a hurry. I can always just use the 6k n2 til li reach 4500 and swap bottle out.

maxtrouble said:

Took the Walther LP400 out for a spin this weekend. This can was resting on a stick at thirty yards. 10 meter pistols are no joke. Probably 100 shots worth of damage. Wrecks HOSPs and Starlings around the feeder.

View attachment 576156

Here is a shot from the deck to 30 yards.

View attachment 576157

Added a picture of the Walther.

View attachment 576163

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That poor can really picked the wrong time to come out of hiding. Nice job. We air gunners really need to do our part to make sure that tin cans maintain a healthy fear of humans. Otherwise they can become aggressive. A rusty tin can with sharp edges is no joke.
I recently bought a Walther LG400 and I’m also having a blast with it. Like your pistol, my LG400 was purpose built for ten meter but we know they are so much fun beyond that.
Kenny

ZekeZX10 said:

I have a Vulcan 3 in 30 cal with the new HP regulator and I'm shooting 62.5 grain slugs at 1000 fps / 139 fpe ... Sub MOA at 100 yards, love it. I've had it almost a year and a half and zero complaints
View attachment 576198

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Nice

Vetmx said:

Everything sounds good. Hopefully the new barrel will be the difference. The pellet stopping at the crown is an angry crown. Not good. A 15gr can shoot great at 50 yards at 930fps with the right twist rate and a good choke. It’s interesting that you didn’t get any clipping with a grabby crown and your bore not being concentric.

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The lighter pellets would sometimes tumble and keyhole the target if that's what you mean by clipping.
I'm hoping to get a few shots in at 50yds after work this evening if the rain holds off...

Bear-of-Grayling said:

If you are sending it out for a steroid, just box it up as is and send it out. The pump cup not functioning and it will be replaced anyway. Removing the split pins in the front should be done at a minimum. Let Tim do it once. It should be good for decades.

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Exactly my plan. Why tear it down to fix the pump cup/seals (or pay a local to do it), then send it to Tim, who's going to do all that anyway when he does the steriod?

not sure how a Weihrauch barrel would work but okay
seeing that these were copies of the Air Arms TX200 i would thing many parts would t as in springs and seals
they were known to be the best Chinese clone ever made
https://www.pyramydair.com/blog/200...Rr31e713qAKzdvDAgYYA1YG_cI4pa102cT-xwfbQC3rIm

Nice Ethan!

What are the best power upgrades to do to an fx dreamline bottlepup in .25?
I'm getting 865 fps with 30.86gn baracudas on max at 150bar, I think its a 700mm barrel. Does that sound about right, or do I need to retune?
what should I start with? Transfer port, pellet probe, hammer spring, heavy hammer?
A power plenum would need stock modifications to fit.

MongooseV8 said:

@Chukar60
I didnt see your initial question answered about slug choice. The Hybrids are very soft, if you wanted to try something harder the Nielsens are probably going to be your best bet. They will open a little bit; but the small and shallow hollow point cavity combined with the harder alloy gives a great balance of terminal performance and penetration. The older style H&N slugs are also harder than the Hybrids and Id say they are somewhere in the middle. I would go straight to Nielsens personally.

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That’s the kind of information I was looking for. I had the same thought. Just have not had time to get some Nielsen’s and order some. As this is a strictly hunting gun I will go to a heavier slug and twist the power up a bit more. Shot count is not concern here.

Thank you

RTI, fx Tarantula, Kozack, b51, few more. I havent posted much. Im a squrill hunter at heart. I have lots of places to hunt and shoot.

Do yourself a favor and buy the zeiss, i have 12 swarovski’s z8, 1 zeiss v8, 1 schmidt and bender and 1 element theos wich is for sale right now.
glass from the zeiss is much better (clearly) than the elemen, i’m definitely not a zeiss fanboy but know that they are making very good stuff.

Cantona256 said:

How was the thwack?

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Addicting.

I have a .177 mk 1 Superstar, full length barrel. I have had it for years but it doesn't get shot much and just sits in the safe. I have a tune kit for it I keep planning on putting in the gun but haven't got around to it yet. Maybe this post will get me going on it!

beerthief said:

would love to live off grid , i have always said i was born 200 years to late .

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HA HA HA, I'm very delighted to meet you, Good Siyr.