PRUSA XL 5 look SWEET.

Price,,,,,, not so much

Also Danes do NOT have the dirt cheap power most other nations got.
Which is kind of ironic with all the " free " wind we are harvesting here.

i had a try with unchocked polygonal and choked polygonal on red wolf and 2 alpha wolfs (redwolf shoots 16gr slugs great ,alphas hate slugs) and a choked 12groove 600mm traditional riffling on my raw hm1000 . My Raw is a bit more accurate at 905 fps with 13gr ZAN . LW makes a traditional 12 groove 1:16 unchoked for the .177 i would choose that one and give it a nice polish

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I did consider that line of compressors, just trying to stay under $500. My other hobby is photography, but my job is convincing the wife I need more toys. I’ll have to approach this as a money saving investment .

Thanks for the recommendation.

Hope this is ok to post here. It may be better suited in the classifieds, but since I do not have the guns to 'sell' I chose to post here. I have a buddy who was into airguns for a bit. Ended up getting a Matador long and a Leyla, big tank, fittings for the tank, etc.
He is now looking to get out of airguns and reached out to me.

He's not very computer savvy and is not a member of any forums. I have shot the guns and can vouch they are real and were working perfectly a few years ago last I shot them, but that's really all I can say about them. I dont even recall what calibers they were, but likely .22 or .25.

In any case, I dont need them but told him I'd see if I knew of anyone who may be interested. If so, hit me up and I can send his email address your way.

Cleaning out closet. Used af bottle. Valve need rebuild. 2 end caps. Safety wire. What you see is what you get. Need jsb .25 33.9. Open to offers. Deal by email. [email protected].

Klaas said:

I never did that. How ?

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You Tube is your friend IT is easy to build , piece of glass (cheap mirror ) . tape to make a L shape 90degrees on the glass . usually 6 or 8 inches a side . tilt the glass a small amount. mark a start point to place the head of the pellet , let the pellet roll to a place on the bottom tape and mark that . (you will have several "landing" marks . just pick out the pellets that land in the same place to shoot a target . this assures the all the pellets FOR THAT TARGET are the same head and skirt size . It does not matter what that size is ,just that all pellets are the same .
Some people like this (ME ) and some people say no . edit layer the tape to a thickness that will stop a rolled pellet

Vortex 6-24x50 MRAD reticle FFP scope, briefly mounted on a rifle but not fielded, like new. Includes sunshade, bikini cover, original box & paperwork.

$295 Shipped to lower 48, Paypal F&F (or +3.5%), Zelle, Cashapp. Not interested in trades. Positive feedback on AGN and on ebay.

NEVER MIND< GOT MY OLD ONE UP AND RUNNING!!!

Need to replace the ink pad roller in my T-8 Ballistic printer. Have not been able to find one, it takes a IR-30 and I I find is IR-40.
You have a used one that is collecting dust and the ink pad is good I am interested in purchasing.\Message me please and we will do a deal, Ray LifeisGood

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To the op, the liner crush nut can rotate when moderator are screwed on and off, also the design of the liner system is not as rigid as a standard barrel so heavier mods will drag the barrel down more and all weight of mods will alter the harmonics..the longer the barrel and higher the power the worse the effect becomes.


A simple test for moderator concentricity is to sick a piece of masking tape over the moderator end cap and take a shot, look to see if the pellet exit hole is dead centre to the moderator bore.

Bb

cavedweller said:

the subject comes up from time to time... personally i thing stressing the neck of an HP vessel is bad but many many do this. I think it is always best to perch on a stock.

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I asked FX about resting on the bottle or using the bottle as a bipod mount years ago and they said no problem.

BlackICE said:

I don't disagree about the energy transfer, but the examples given just show how important shot placement is more than anything else for small diameter sub-sonic projectiles. The 1st video with the .357 hit a little high. The 2nd video didn't. But neither shot is going to be DRT 100% of the time. The only time that happens is if you hit the brain, brain step or spinal column near the brain. Even with brain shots I've seen coons do the death dance, moving over a minute and a few feet from where the shot occured.

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Nomadic Pirate 66 said:

That comparison is total bollocks.

High strung .25 compared to anemic .30

the only way a comparison of the kind is worth watching is if you shoot the .25 at the same fps as the .30

Told him when he fist came out with it but he completely ignored and hide away without awknowleging the huge shortcomings of this useless test.

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I also said the comparison was trash, and we agreed to disagree.

Reminds me of the time a fella goes to the doctor and says, "Doc, when I do this, it hurts" Doc says, "Well, don't do that!"

I was hunting once with one of my bottle builds and took a shot at a squirrel from fairly close range not aware that the bolt wasn't locked down - I got the squirrel, but damn near soiled my britches.

Pb blaster, marvel air tool oil, transmission fluid acetone mix, soak long time. In my experience pb blaster dissolves rust really well, I use it on old antiques that have been neglected for years.

Looking for jsb or fx .30 cal pellets in 44.75 grains.

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Generally speaking, you're probably already in a sweet spot. I generally tune my guns to around 125-135 bar. Go much lower and you start wasting air. Much higher, the valve tends to be a lot harder to open, and tends to yield less consistency. More hammer mass can aleviate this. Port work might help? Essentially getting air to flow with less turbulence. But I honestly don't know if increse in flow in these terms means more air useage as well? It very well could? A longer barrel is definitely more efficient, but that usually isn't desirable either.

Either way, big bore airguns, even at their most efficient, tend to be air hogs regardless. It just comes with the territory.

RIshooter said:

What are you shooting?
I tried to shoot one with my Notos and it just broke open. No explosion.
Going to try with my 25 cal L2 next.
I think the notos just doesn't put out enough energy to make it explode.

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I'm shooting a modified AV Avenger 22cal. It is shooting H&N Baracuda 21.14gr pellets at about 875FPS, so it is about 36FPE. It is hitting pretty hard.

The Baracuda are more "pointy" than traditional Diabolo, so this may make a small difference as there would be more force applied to a smaller area when it first hits.

It looks like the Notos caps at about 20FPE. Here is a chart:

Picture Credit - https://www.outdoorlife.com/gear/umarex-notos-review/

I think that the energy that you are applying to the target makes more difference than the velocity by itself. You can blow them up with arrows, so those would be heavy, would be going slow, and would thereby deliver significant FPE to the target. I don't know how hard it would be to get the power up on that gun (adding plenum, increasing hammer spring, reducing valve spring, boring out the valve, increasing the size of the transfer port, etc, etc, etc.)

Your Leshiy 2 should be more suitable to make these pop with the 25cal putting out 35-40FPE which is right where I am.

Good luck, and don't forget to record your success so you can share it with the rest of us "kids" that like to make things go BOOM!

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Hey guys, got a 3d printer. Just wondering if anyone has an stl file for a Picatinny rail for the Notos? Would clamp or tape to the air tube, would prefer it to be whole length but I guess just enough for a bipod would be okay if it isn't possible to do whole/most of length.

PS I know about the one from Airgun Archery Fun but I have the plenum and am not sure how that'd mount... plus it's like $36 to get here and a whole roll of PETG is cheaper than that lol

I am very interested in fx panthera hunter compact .22
I would like to know the length after using the AR Folding Stock and how long is it folded?