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Hatsan  .22 Wood Hatsan Flashpup Part Schematics With Part Names

Clicked on the link and there's no schematics diagram only parts that are available? Thanks 🙏

Recommend me a scope

i bought a 200 euro discovery6x24x50 from ebay and a 100 euro westhunter4x16x44 from amazon at the same time , the westhunter is much better and tracks correctly with positive clicks on the turrets. on the other hand the discovery Vtz parralax does not work the elevation turret has no clicks and the picture is dull and yellow . keep in mind that a springer especially a gamo will destroy a cheap scope in minutes

Taipan  Taipan Vet II Standard..

I switched the cocking lever from right to left and it wasn't hard at all. Now it doesn't get in the way of my trigger finger.
But I figured something out a while ago and wanted to share about the manufacturer. It appears that ( BULLET PROJECT s.r.o. ) Who's address is used for Taipan is also used for the retailer Balistas in CZ ( That has many videos about the Vet ) But Bullet Project is also listed for Epic airguns and Royal Thunder Airguns.
I'm not sure if it's just a parent company that has part ownership in many companies or in fact the direct mfg and retailer. Balistas does not ship to the USA.
I don't know about whether Royal Thunder is high quality ( I assume they are) But from what Epic owners say that one is and I know for sure the Taipan brand is so well made it's shocking. EDIT: Upon further research Taipan has this language in their catalogue. "Taipan is secured by the Czech company BULLET PROJECT s.r.o" I think this means they are funded or Licensed under BP S.R.O.
Yes Balistas is already sending

Daystate  DAYSTATE REGAL REGULATOR ISSUE

Here's an update
Albeit a long time coming
I spoke with Shane (sp?) at AOA
He agreed that the issue was most likely that the regulator was set too high.
And also said that even though the rifle was filled with air but not been shot for over a year, damage to the regulator was unlikely.
So, armed with the excellent Daystate Workshop Video I dove in.
I removed the regulator to find that there were no markings for pressure on it
I took measurements as per the video, marked the current setting and opened it up to inspect the bellville washers.
The washers were correctly oriented.
This procedure did not change the current setting.
I then tested it on a Huma regulator tester
To my surprise, it was set at 140B
This is way under the reading & behavior it was exhibiting.
I reset it at 150B on the tester
Once reinstalled I filled the tube and the regulator gauge on the gun matched the test at 150B
It is now shooting consistently at 150B
No more falling off the cliff

Considering that I did nothing other than inspect the regulator's innards it is my opinion that the bellvilles had taken a set over time and the degassing and inspecting freed them up

That's my story and I'm stickin' to it

Edward

Who's the Crosman expert?

I’ve experienced great results with the Benjamin 10.5’s

I have too; though I've only shot them in one rifle so far. They out-shoot 10.3 JSBs in my QB/Gauntlet hybrid.

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A five-shot group at 50 yards from stool-and-bipod Hunter position with the Benjis measured less than 1/2" c-t-c-

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Again shooting from stool and bipod Hunter position the next night, a ten-shot group in light crosswinds with the Benjis printed .65" c-t-c-

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10.3 JSBs group 1/8" wider at 50 than the Benjamins.

I'll add that the 10.5 grain Benjamins are beautifully consistent, and are reported to have about a .040 B.C. 🤞

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AirVenturi 4500 Twin Cylinder Issue

So, I've had this compressor for a few years. I've had my fair share of problems with it too. The last major issue was the crank case housing cracked where it bolts to the motor. After re-assembling a new one it wasn't compressing that well and after really looking over the second stage cylinder I could see some wear, so I started looking for a new cylinder. I ended up getting a used, fully complete second stage assembly from AirVenturi that looked better than mine. After tearing it down and cleaning/polishing both reed valves and their mating surfaces I re-assembled it all. At this point it would build pressure to 3300-3500psi but then it would start detonating the oil (I think that's what I'm hearing), creating a short irregular knock and then black discharge to the bottom of the filter tower. This was also on a fresh set of AV high pressure seals (about $35 worth)

Might next thought was to swap lube oils although the one I've been using had been working fine. I ordered some Seco 500 thinking this was going to cure the current issue. Nope, still has that intermittent rattle/knocking at high pressure. Pulled the cylinder off and the high-pressure seals still looked like new. This is where I'm at now, so now I'm thinking maybe it has something to do with the discharge pressure leaving the first stage side going to the suction of the second stage. I'm wondering if the first stage isn't sending enough pressure, which I think is actually acting like a back pressure to keep any oil from migrating easier across the second stage seals that is ending up on top of the high-pressure piston and then doing a little detonating.

A couple of years ago out of curiosity and troubleshooting I actually measured the discharge pressure of the first stage and if I remember correctly it was somewhere around 350-400psi.
I tried this again recently, but I really didn't have the correct gauge, but I could tell it wasn't going to be anywhere near 350psi. But the air flow volume seems pretty good. As soon as I get an in-range gauge I'm going to test it again.

Just wondering if anyone else has ran into this issue and found out the first stage being the issue. I may pull it apart today and check the rings but they looked fine when I replaced the crank case housing. Sounds crazy I know but I'm about at my wits end this time.

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