Over time the cocking block on my FX Impact M3 has worn off the black finish on my barrel. Also, pulling my barrel in and out of the gun has left superficial marks and scratches. Is there a way to touch up or refinish the barrel back to it’s glossy black glory? I’ve thought about using a bluing chemical like Brownell’s 44/40 or Birchwood Super Blue, but I believe those only work on carbon steel. I’m pretty sure the FX Impact barrels are stainless steel.

Let me know if you have any suggestions, thanks

I had one of those wake up calls when I was filling my HW44, failed to have the fill probe seated properly.

AirMaks arms padded gun case in great condition.
32 inches by 11 inches
$50 Shipped TYD

Centercut said:

Eventually I will…. But I have a suspicion this mistake might be a very good pellet liner. So I’ll try it out with pellets before I work to get it refunded.

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Maybe you ought to try a round ball out of that liner. Maybe FX had a run of BB gun liners and you got one.

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Hi all,

I'd like to sell this Blackhound Optics Genesis 6-24x50 FFP MIL scope with UTG Pro rings, sunshade, and flip up caps (in original box). I'm asking $275 shipped to anywhere in CONUS. Paypal only please.

Thanks,
Clayton

Olevey said:

I have one but the bolt is stuck and im currently trying to get it fixed

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It's fixed and it's absolutely incredible. Just a bad battery that's all. I am selling or trading it, to much power for my needs

for dry moly I use a Q-tip, if the area is small I will pull 1/2 the cotton off first
for moly paste it is an acid brush,,, I have extras on hand,, been known to cut 1/2 the bristles off for a firmer applicator

no saving the dirty birds, they fly to the waste basket,,, it is not like I need to moly something everyday, it's application is needed sparingly, both in frequency and amounts

Paul.A said:

Hi everyone, I've been back and forth from airguning but have always liked the theoben rapid series rifles, and now the Raw.
Looking at purchasing a Raw soon.

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@hirdhawks designs is in your location?

Gerry52 said:

What's the difference between that & a SINGLE barrel? Still have to cock for each shot AND have to make sure each barrel shoots exactly the same. Benefit? Other than looking unique, I don't see one.

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The barrels replace a quiver. More streamlined than a quiver mounted on the side or slung on your hip. Ammo/arrows are already threaded onto the barrels for quick follow ups. The barrels rotating into place make it much quicker than if you had to load each one when things get serious.

Would like to know the FPS and length of the shaft. Foot lbs don't mean anything to an arrows trajectory.

Here are the 3 different clamps that I have printed up thus far:



Left, with the side pic rail mounts.
Center, no side pic rails, assembled.
Right, original 1 piece.



And mounted up:






Here is a useful example of having the side rail: easy mount for my FX Chronograph:









Now it was time to add a foregrip:

So I rummaged thru my box of airgun parts for front grips, and found these guys:



All were inexpensive, found on sale at some point.

The left, seemed super gimmicky, and has never been used. It has a spring-loaded bipod built inside. Sturdy, but a little heavy.

The middle is a simple, light, and comfy grip, currently on my AEA HP SS.

The third is a fold-up grip. It is light, but a little wide for my hand.







Jump forward multiple months of trial, and the grip I have settled on may be surprising:



The gimmicky hidden bipod grip!


While a little heavier than I would prefer, I found that I use the grip and bipod very frequently.

As I have mentioned, I primarily use the air pistol for hunting squirrels. I don’t have the patience to actively hunt them. Instead, when I walk out of my house, I have several shooting lanes. If I see a squirrel, or even just sense a squirrel, I bring out my air pistol from the garage. In one lane, I usually have my standing Bog deathgrip tripod. In the other lane, sits my garbage can.

And here is the shooting lane:



I dispatched many a squirrel in this exact fashion. The first tree in the orchard has a few logs stacked (about 40 yards)--there is frequently an apple from the tree just to the right of it, sitting on the log. Fun way to make sure my scope is sighted in. I have gotten squirrels on that log, munching on the apple. My orchard extends all the way out to probably 100 yards (I have gotten squirrels that far out).

Anyways, I have had this setup now through the whole summer. It is at super functional state.

Here is a list of things I have done or added to my GK1.
Cleaned the barrel.
Added a Hugget Snipe Moderator.
3D printed a fillport plug.
Modified some standoff screws to replace the regular back plate screws--which allows for a non-structural 3D printed back picatinny rail mount.
Cut up an aluminum hiking stick to make an adjustable length stock--with a 3D printed pic mount on one side, and a 3D printed butt end on the other.
3D printed a top picatinny rail for scope mounting.
Added a Hawke Airmax Touch scope.
3D printed a bottle clamp with various picatinny rail mounts.
Added a fore grip.

What is next for me?
Well, squirrel season is done--they are now essentially hibernating. In fact, we are in the midst of 2 weeks of heavy rain, so not much opportunity for plinking.
I will probably be taking a break from this thread to focus on other projects.

I have a few things kicking around in my mind to do next:

1. I’m curious and would like to generate a few curves of air pressure vs speeds and accuracy.
2. Post my experiences with various moderators, particularly the previously posted 3d printed ones.
3. I think I can 3D print a better lighter fore grip, possibly with a bottom mini monopod functionality

Is this "silica" only available through amazon, or can you purchase it local?
Thx
Ray

@Sqwirl57 You can get some fantastic results at 200mtrs with the M3 and the right slug!!

I am using the Huma externally adjustable regulator for couple of years. Mounting it to the tank when tethering.

It’s the bolt stop. Same as on the real C96 and M712, the bolt slides out when you remove the screw from the back of the bolt and then pull this stop out. There’s a small metal piece just behind the stop that has to come out first. This is not on the real gun and I suspect it’s there to backup the zamac bolt stop which really needs to be steel to take the beating. Note that these parts are still under a slight spring pressure and it takes a bit of fiddling to get them in and out.

There is something else going on with those signatures that I find interesting. There is a sine wave present at the start of each of those samples. I've measured the period of that sine wave (from the drawing) at ~7.4ms. That works out to a frequency of ~135 Hz and a wave length of ~8.14 feet. That sine wave is acting as a carrier for the other frequencies associated with the "uncorking" event. I have no idea what it might be. My first guess is the gun is resonating along it's entire length with the hammer impact and the other frequencies are modulating the amplitude of that signal.

The gun is 32.5" long as I have it configured with the Krait on it. That is almost exactly 1/3 the wavelength... so... unlikely culprit. The picnic table upon which I was resting the fore-stock upon is 8' long 35" deep and the point at which I was coupling energy into that table was 1 rifle length from the corner. This raises the possibility that the sine wave we are looking at was created when energy from the shot was coupled to the picnic table through my hand. I shot kneeling with just the back of my support hand resting firmly against the table. It would be interesting if that were where that signal originated. Of course the test would be to shoot off hand from the same spot but it's cold and windy today and I have other things I should be about. So... Maybe tomorrow.

Maybe someone will chime in with their thoughts?

AirNGasman said:

Maybe this will lend a Texas perspective.

View attachment 437726

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I used to know a guy (truck driver ) avg. 3000 miles a week and never left TX .

Falcon quickfill/mod combo, Fill probe included. $125 shipped

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Airgunmann said:

H&N 44 gr or NSA 43.5 gr seem to do pretty good too running around 960 970 at least at 40 yards about all I got in my yard for shooting. Fx gun I should have stated not a king

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Thanks AirgunMann. for sure I’ll be trying H&n and NSA slugs

A screenshot from an instructional video. Then you measure the actual height of the crosshair on the erector tube above the bore.

This listing has been renewed

This listing has been renewed

Emu said:

If I shoot to targets at 50 or 88 yards, my Sidewinder .25 if not as accurate as my FX Panthera.... Or at least I can control the better the Panthera.

If I go out and shoot at long distance, the Sidewinder is extremely accurate. I just took two birds at 150 yards, easily.

So, the problem when shooting to paper targets is not a lack of accuracy, it should be something I am doing in a wrong way..... But I have not identify that yet.

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There's several things that can be going on here. I know in archery its not uncommon for people to be better at 40yd shots then 20yd. This happens for two reasons primarily; less practice at given ranges due to deeming them less important or less time aiming properly due to underestimating the challenge of a close range shot. The other situation that's common with slug platforms vs pellet is that they are just less accurate at closer distances usually being shot faster but retaining more stability at distance and in wind. Pellets like 920 fps roughly as a max but many slugs shoot fine at 950-1000+fps. Pellets fall apart at 100+yds typically but slugs start to shine about there and even out.

Clayton Horn
Precision Sport Airguns