Backyard AirGuns - Mike said:

Thanks Bob

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Nice presentation. It may never win the "30 Yd Challenge" but looks quite handy as a Pest eliminator!
Subscribed as well.

Kim said:

This is very true. One of the reasons I switched from benchrest to precision pistol is that ammo is almost completely irrelevant to target pistol accuracy. OTOH with benchrest ammo / barrel compatibility is critical and you go nuts testing lots of ammo - most of which is uncompetitive.

You can search and find tests of different pellets with air pistols clamped in a vice, and the accuracy differences are mostly in the X-ring. This testing may help if you need convincing:

Unless you shoot in major competitions RWS Basic or similar are fine. I use these in my FWB P44, and the combination is more accurate than I'll ever be (and also works well at 20yd, FWIW).

I second Neal Stepp / ISS for pellets, guns, and parts: http://www.iss-internationalshootersservice.com/

Neal is better to work with by phone than email

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Wow! Thank you Kim. Very informative video.

Firewalker said:

That's awesome!

Yes, makes sense to be rated lower as size increased in diameter.

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So to get back on topic I use the < 4500 tanks to tether or do partial fills on guns that will take it. The regulated guns are happy to run anything above final regulator, and the scuba tank does nicely for the pcp crosman conversions that I run near co2 vapor pressure.

My intro to pcp was hand pumping a gen 1 mrod25 and my big step up was using old paintball tanks as buddy bottles, so you learn what air you can get away with when you don't own a compressor and you burn orings out of your hand pump every 2 weeks. Sure it's not a full fill, but you're not doing full sets of cardio all day. Don't push your luck with chinesium shoebox compressors filling anything over 1L/92ci. I burned up a couple, and 3 Yong hengs over the years before I popped for a big boy compressor. If its cheap or free, i wouldn't shy away from a scuba fill setup at all.

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Starting tomorrow, 02-23-24, at 4pm CST.

Use Code: PCP15 at Checkout

I owned both hw 95 and 97 are fantastic rifles, the 95 is lighter and probably as accurate. I did keep the 97 because its an under lever and I feel it will hold up better without the barrel getting loose from cocking. I had a couple Diana's that were nice guns too but I prefer the HW's.

HeyU said:

German rifle,German pellets. That's my theory anyways lol. I like the Hawke AMX too. I go with their 2-7X32 model. I think the eye-box is a little tight,but oh well. It makes me pay attention to my head or eye position. I have a 3-9X40 Hawke AMX on my B-46 (it's a big air rifle). I like it but the 2-7X32 suits me and the air rifles ( HW50s & R9 ) better. Ya got a couple nice groups there. I use a black Paint marker to add a center dot to my pasters

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I've seen some using off center points of aim, like putting the bull in the corner, and I scratch my head and wonder why? That may be the answer.

Nice collection Mark. I didn’t know anyone had more than one 21! You might have a better chance of getting your question answered over on the Traditional Airgun forum. Good luck.

Have for sale two AR 15 grips. I have replaced these that were on my EVOLS with after market ones for more bling. Buy both and price is 30 bucks plus shipping and PayPal fee. If you only want one the price is 18 bucks with shipping and PP fees. Like new condition and a dang good bargain. I only ship to the lower 48 states.
Thanks AGN and members, appreciate you.

I'm just learning about all of this...embarrasingly I had to look up what a fill probe was/does.....anyway, i found a parts source of several items that might help you like the rings, rebuild parts, plugs etc.

hope to get my first air rifle soon

I know that Mr. Troy Hammer who is very active on this forum deals closely with the manufacturer and has a lot of knowledge and experience with this platform....likely he can help you. You can pm him on the forum.

also, thought perhaps this link might help you as well:

6gun said:

I dont blame you, I stand behind my work and got the same nonsense. They can have broken guns and i will buy them up on ebay instead.

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I've done that to, Notos "for parts only" because the barrel end was chewed up.

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Dogowsky said:

I've got the 25 version and just put on a 7L carbon fiber bottle and regulator. It's my favorite new bench rifle as loaded with moderator, scope, and bipod it's 10 plus pounds. Regulator set at 2400 psi and i get about 55 shots before falling off the reg. Great rifle!

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What pellets does it like? Mine likes the Hadies

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Lol, yes it was slower than usual at this location and I am very happy to be able to fix that annoying slow leak of my HW100. Have fun shooting them groundhogs.

Thank you so much.

rdpjr6504 said:

Barrel is 15mm see images. I put o rings on barrel and slid carbon tube over them. Carbon tube is 17mm inside by 19mm outside. Let me know if you need more info. Thank you

View attachment 571569

View attachment 571570

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Thank you so much. I appreciate you accommodating all these questions.

O/T but seeing as you are in Moses Lake for ammo (new airguns ....) you might want to drive on up to Colville.
https://www.airgunnation.com/thread...-colville-wa-today-pics.1300031/#post-1599120


John

very nice Doug.

revived rear support looking nice

Not sure what to say or make of this pre-WWII Haenel Model III DRP at the moment, other than its markings are much different than the ones on my older Model III.

This rifle has none of the typical stampings in the known locations such as there is only a small z on the underside of barrel where the mm/yy stamp is normally located. No caliber stamping on top of breach block, but it is a .22 caliber. There is a stamp on the compression tube which is 967, this stamp is consistent with my other model III built in 10/27., which is the only stamp location the two share. This rifle has a much longer stamp on the back of the trigger block cap 31967, with the last three digits matching the compression tube numbers. On my older rifle the three numbers on the compression tube match the three numbers on the trigger block.

Knowing the DRP is pre-war mark, my assumption is the mm/yy mark moved to the trigger block and assume this rifle was manufactured in about 9/31 (September 1931), but again this is a guess.

Peashooter said:

The army men that made it to Denmark when i was a kid in the 70ties, only half as tall as those, well unless you have creepy small hands.

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The ones I played with as a kid were 3x larger than the ones pictured.

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boresnake said:

Thanks . Good to know this stuff. I am going to my first match next mo.

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Good luck and have fun! let us know how it goes.

This listing has been renewed

As title says. If you’re not going to use it, I’ll take em for a good deal

If you have a broken gun or have an air tube? Looking for extra air tube.