AirNGasman said:

Correct.

MoF I've won state and national championships with Co2 guns equipped like that. But that's hardly a simple adapter to fill bulk-fill Co2 guns with HPA from a Hill pump.

BTW, your information is not incorrect or misinformation. Rather, it's correct information that I think missed the point of the original post; key word being 'simple'.

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Good point. I ended up editing that post, because after posting it I realized this thread was old and I had responded to it in the past with something very similar and that I had indeed drifted away from the original question.

Motorhead said:

That if present is damp-able & not caliber specific either

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great question and advice . so how exactly do you go about dampening the darned pinging/twanging?

This listing has been renewed

emack1984 said:

Wats the twist rate on the .25 caliber barrel from LW ?

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1:17.7

Good day
I need some advice please. I bought a new Fx impact 700mm .22 m3 fitted with a slug liner and slug kit (pinprobe/tungsten hammer and lighter valve return spring)
The 1st reg is on 150 bar and the 2nd reg on 108 bar. Shooting 25 grain 218 H&N slugs 984 fps and grooping is very good at 100 meters. Hammer on 12, mico at 3.75 and the valve 3 turns out. Shooting 30 grain H&N at 935 fps but with a problem

The problem i have is, once you open the valve 4.5 turns and put the hammer on 16 and shoot a shot there's an air leak at the rear end at the magazine/power block rear/barrel area ONLY when you pulling the cocking lever back to load a slug. You can hear it clearly it is not the plenum filling with air. Once you push the cocking lever forward the leak stops. If you turn the valve in say to line 3 the leak stops.
If you just pulling the cocking lever back without shooting a shot, there is no leak. The gun is also not leaking air when standing for days.
Could it be the lighter valve return spring, causing the valve to stay open longer.
Would you recommend to put the stronger original valve return spring back.
Regards

This listing has been renewed

NLA

Looking for some complete barrel kits. 1:16 Heavy liner preferred but no necessary. If you have one that you don't use please let me know. Thank you!

Thanks @WhoMe1525 !!

You'd be a BMF squeezing a 30cal through a Polo!!!

Are you like a teenager? if not get f out of their" buy a old van some food go to the booneys"O and take your guns"

We will see. The love for the S200 was the CZ barrel IMO. I’ll be watching.

I removed my suppressor last week. I used a heat gun and it came off easy

I was thinking the same thing when I saw the pricing at Krale :/

I would also like to make a note that this is the 4th match with ZERO cold lines because of target failures. I think it is Ironic how people will only promote what targets they are allowed to. They are afraid of the bully yet they can promote targets that are cheaper in price than S&S targets and for good reason.

I don't think the fumes could do very much as others have said. As a side not, I did a lot of model building when I was a kid. I built them from 2nd grade until my freshman year. I spent so much time building models in 8th grade using the better testors liquid glue that I almost had to repeat the 8th grade. Then my Dad told me to start opening the window when building them in my room, and things started getting easier in school again.
(this was a joke about sniffing glue for those wondering)
I would be more prone to worry if you're pumping them up, filling the bottles in the same room with the fumes.

Hello, just recently I'm trying an idea to support Maverick shroud in it's own independent support, support not taking from the frame post but at the flat face of the side rails (yes they do have just support by paper thin hanging down, the reason I've put 4 screws). Is there a reason the barrel are not to be too rigid in their position? Haven't tried testing yet but is there such reason the manufacturer didn't make that way? I'm also planning the perforated disk O-ring seal type like the Brokock shroud system (yes the shroud should be screw cap type for that instead of this carbon fibre tube). And I didn't like the Huma barrel tensioner rail since it catches the barrel only at the sleeves (i.e 14mm) which means the shroud is still floating around the barrel sleeves

Καλημέρα, έχω μια απορία, πρόσφατα αγοράσα μια μετρητή 25 χιλιοστών που μετά από ώρες φόρτισης δεν βλέπω την ένδειξη μπαταρίας, υπάρχει πρόβλημα ή έτσι λειτουργεί. Επισυνάπτω βίντεο. ευχαριστώ

Assuming the hose didn't absorb the UV light, I could have used these LEDs to keep the water germ free.



But I don't think any of us will be drinking that water and avoid splashing into our eyes, nose or mouth.

Privateer said:

I've got several here. Are you needing part #111? Send your address by PM and I'll mail it out to you.

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Pm sent , that is the part 111 thank you I appreciate it.

I agree. They are made to shoot outdoors . I like shooting 100 yes. I am chasing a 1 inch 5 shot 100 yard group. Get close, hope to do it this year. Hang yourself a soup can out there at 100, great fun. I shoot the air rifle animal silhouettes at 100.....except the chicken.

zx10wall said:

Laissez le bon temps rouler!!; Translation ~ "let the good times roll"!!

Let's GO baby!!

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I thought BSA was British. I'm sure there's never been any animosity between the British and French, so you should be fine.

PCP_Addict said:

Get both

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Been there, Had to
They both have positives over the other.

RedTide said:

All you need is a CGA347 paintball fill station, a double male foster and a couple of filters for desiccant and filter material. This is my setup along with a GX CS4.

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I use the same one from ebay or Amazon.. Had 3 years. Been good

@Olevey No worries. We are a community and it’s good to have as much information as possible to make the most informed decision possible before spending our money.

I have a Bintac M50 pistol in .457 brand new never been shot and an AEA SF in .30 caliber never been shot. Looking to trade for some good optics for other airguns I have.