Nice target idea! The P17 really is one of the best pistols on the market. Lots of fun. I took out a grackle at 10 feet last year with a wadcutter. I do not know who was more surprised, me or the bird. DRT.

Soup cans and para cord are still my siren song, love the reactivity.

The post that goes into the grip, the loop part is made smaller and goes right in the FX grip. You don’t need to buy any adapters at all. The stock grip screw is M6x20, I used a M6x25 to make up for the post thickness difference and was spot on.

Thanks everyone, it works great!

This listing has been renewed

This listing has been renewed

This listing has been renewed

Looking to buy the original picatinny rail for the bipod off of a agt Vulcan 3.

Maybe we won't need to cut any lanes on Saturday. We can just let the wind blow down the trees...

jps2486 said:

After much experimentation with FX Dreamlines and other Crowns with ho-hum accuracy, I finally got some really promising results with my FX Crown MKII Saber Tactical. I had a .177 600 mm barrel that I tried in another Crown that didn't seem to work well for me, so I put it in the Saber model that I was using for 100 yard shooting in 22 cal. I left the reg setting the same (140) and installed a Huma dual transfer port. I was able to squeeze 1020 fps from JSB 13.4 KO slugs and over 1100 fps with 10.3 slugs. I also tried NSA 12.5 and 15.0 gr slugs. The KO 13.4 gr worked the best when I turned the power wheel from Max to the next lower setting achieving 985 fps. The other slugs were not too good. At 100 yards, methinks this works pretty well for a .177 rifle. I can't wait to try some ZAN 13 grainers too.

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impressive

KodiakJac said:

Yes, I have. It fits the hollow FX moderator like a glove and appears to be very well made. Did I notice a massive reduction in noise level over the hollow FX moderator...no. But it did produce a moderate decrease in the noise level of each shot. And it has the little notch vents at the top of each cone to allow a last instant of air to escape to help in air stripping and pellet stability.

Moderators are both about decreasing the noise level of each shot and stripping the air trailing the pellet to help with stability of the pellet as it leaves the muzzle. It looks like the FIX Kit has made a good attempt at that.

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Thanks for your input!

bchannell said:

I also emailed Bill and asked about filling the piston recess with grease. He confirmed that was fine. The admonition from GX was for putting grease ABOVE the piston. A little dab will do.

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Not sure what you mean here? The grease pot goes into the same place as the air inlet is, which is on the outside of the first-stage piston. It is then spread & sucked into the other stages along with the air.

If by "piston recess" you are referring to the cavity between the first piston and the outside cylinder wall, that is exactly where the grease pot and air go.

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Yes, there will be some axial movement with the part you circled in red in the second photo in post 29. That motion relates to the opening and closing of the PMV. Although you will feel a lot of axial movement, in actuallity it only moves a very tiny amount when the system is at operating pressure.
I have included a photo of the assembly order of the cap.
The copper washer goes into the cap, then the spring, then the brass piece goes into the ID of the spring. There is a depression in one side of the brass piece that sits on top of the pin in the top portion of the PMV. Being you have to assemble it sort of inverted, you can put a dab of grease on the brass piece where it inserts into spring to hold it in place. Same goes for the copper washer to either hold it in the cap or on the top of the spring. Then tighten the cap to the desired pressure or dimension you previously measured before disassembling.

Looking down into the top of the PMV the top of the pin should be relatively flat. The depression in the brass piece sits on that pin.
The last two photos are of my PMV. Your PMV has to lines coming out of it, mine only has one, might be because you have auto shut down.
I sent you a PM.

Take a block of wood, and using a pair of dividers scribe the diameter of the bottle or air tube, cut out hole, slice block in half.
On each half take about an additional 1/4” off on the sides with the half circle cuts.

Now you have two blocks each with half rounds to place on bottle, tube, or whatever that’s round that you can now clamp on a vice so both hands are free.

caliusoptimus said:

Zero rust on my TJs. Oiled or not. My other steel barrels rust like it's a requirement of their continued existence.

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Mine don't rust either,even after I polished outside to shinny finish. I have fx liners as accurate,but they'll not shoot both pellets and slugs as well. With the liner,it's one or the other real good. The tj has certain ones it likes extremely well,but those all good when you find the speed for that pellet or slug.

I'm wondering if the material they use would get along with softer materials like wood or laminate. Most of the pictures I've seen having them being used with polymer stocks.

Thanks.

So apparent the specialist gun tuners improve the shot count and FPS variation by removing the restrictor in the sub 12 ft pound models and simply adjust and balance the Regulator and hammer spring tension for more efficient air use and consistancy of around 11.5 ft pound. But I cannot find where this restrictor is located on the Vixen. Any of you guys now please?

I also would like to know where you got the barrel and your reg and hammer settings. VERY nice shooting!!

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This listing has been renewed

This scope is in good condition. The visible marks are adhesive from scope rings. There are a few marks on the AO side wheel under the throw lever from the set screws. What you see is what you get. Comes with the FX no limit rings. $225 shipped. Scope is springer rated according to the manufacturer.

Perhaps look down two threads below yours before you post?

Gerry52 said:

Barrels usually have to be "leaded" or "seasoned" per each different projectile. JSB 25.39gr pellets for example will not leave the same leading as a 26gr slug.
With my guns usually 4 or 5 shots will do it if I change projectiles, which I don't.

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Thank you for the info

That's a good find Works well on a Texan I'd imagine...

Got these from Amazon

Round holders

You definitely need the tensioner on the 800mm barrel in .35 Cal. especially if you are going to increase the power. The Power Block will buy you a little bit, but its gain can be made up with a higher reg pressure unless you are going for a very high velocity then the PB would pay off. I have both on mine and am pushing the 68 gr. Hybrids at 1025 fps with the Huma 1308 hammer spring, tungsten hammer weight and 170 bar on the reg. I prefer the Bullet Central tensioner over the FX one. Its available with a shroud also.