J. Hanekom said:

What could be the reason wye the Avenge-x POI shifts from left to right with a decrease in bottel pressure and wye it has shifted avter an refill

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I know I have had my avenge x for 6 months trying to solve the problem. The problem comes from a very flexible barrel and shroud. I bought a barrel band to keep the shroud from shifting, a harmonics kit the keeps the barrel stabilized inside the shroud, and last a backflow suppressor from terminadorindustries.com
Problem solved. I also switched out the synthetic classic stock for the tactical to make the whole platform more solid.

If you have an Fx barrel between 350mm to 500mm please pm me.

humbled said:

I applaud you gentlemen for braving adverse conditions to shoot. It's the best way to expose any flaws in your equipment and outlook. Our match this Saturday starts at 20f or so with a balmy 28f predicted by match end.

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Be sure to take your sun screen !

Love the variety of manufacturers used at your meets
Mike

I ran some more tests and the measurements were a little different from the 1st time.

At 0 PSI boost the CS4's power supply used 435 watts at 400 bar and took 29 secs to reach 300 bar.
At 3 PSI boost the CS4's power supply used 435 watts at 300 bar and took 25 secs.
At 4 PSI boost the CS4's power supply used 435 watts at only 230 bar and that took 18 sec.

So if I only fill to 300 bar then boosting the input pressure to 3 psi will load the motor about the same as going all the way to 400 bar. To be conservative I think I will set the boost pressure to 2 psi and I only fill to 300 bar.

So Alan is right you can boost the input pressure if you only fill to 300 bar but the gains are about 16% faster.

I’m hooked on athlon ares, helos or argos first focal plane and this reticle. For me they just do the job very well. Ares 4.5-30x56 helos 6-24x56 or 4-20x50 and if your trying to keep the price down argos 6-24x50

Doesn’t get numbers down right side its from strelok pro

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Logout then look in the optics section. If you see it, someone blocked you.

This listing has been renewed

Hey guys whats the thread size on the Air Tank and Regulator Pressure Gauges?

Up for grabs is a full tuning set of hammer weights by c88machining. Weights and shoulder depths are in photos. Also included is a 26g 8mm FX hammer weight which comes stock in the .30 cal. I’ve decided to not fix what is performing just fine. Was going to try to get the hybrids up to power in my WCMKII cylinder model but I have an Uragan 2 .30 cal coming so here ya go. All are new. Sold as the set only. New price was $45 plus shipping for just the four brass weights. I’m including the 26g FX hammer weight for $40 shipped. PP FF or USPS MO. Thanks

I need help in dissassembling my Benjamin Sheridan h9a. I am afraid I need detailed instructions I have no documentation at all I was cleaning it up when pumped the air released and now it will not hold air I need to completly dissassemble and fix whatever is wrong. thanks in advance.

Update, just for anyone that happens to search this subject later....

The aluminum body mag above does infact work in the Vectis. Quality mag.

JimD said:

It is roughly the muzzle….

The gimbal on the scope would be about half the gun length away. Probably 1-2 feet away. I guess that might be part of the reason that the program's predictions don't perfectly match my shooting results. But since I tweak the program until I get it aligned I don't know what difference it would make in the end.

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The scope does not “know” where the muzzle is. All of the holdovers and click needed to compensate for the trajectory are taken from the scope. Or the gimbal/focal plane to be more exact. If that target distance is 10.5yds rather than the 10yds that you are using. It will definitely throw off your clicks or holdover predicted by a program like Strelok. We can fudge the scope height to get clicks to line up at close distances and fudge the BC and/or velocity for some farther distances. I’ve have done both of those fudges. But I prefer to get my input data and target distances correct.

I usually don’t shoot at more than three distances to setup my gun. I use the ballistics program to get my click and holdover data for all other distances that I might see in a match, so I need accurate input. For extreme long range setups, l shoot a few more distances to verify. Fudging the wrong ballistics data to match actual impact points can mess things up when I start accounting for environmental conditions at long range.

If I am going to shoot at all the expected distances and conditions ahead of time, and fudge the input data in the program to match the poi, then do I really even need a ballistics program?

Loff said:

As far as I know, AirMaks Krait comes with Huma reg from factory. It may be otherwise with early/first Kraits.
I have Krait L with Huma MK3 reg. I do not know production date of my gun and AirMaks refused to tell me that. At some point Krait models started to come with Huma MK4 regulators.
For about month or so ago AirMaks revealed that they started collaboration with Huma-Air and all their regulators are coming from Huma as OEM regs for AirMaks Arms.

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I did have the earlier reg but had it swapped out by Utah Airgun. Just have to see what they think

Selling my Athlon Midas Tac HD . BNIB never mounted.includes sunshade. Scope cap and throw lever
APLR4 FFP reticle 6x24x50
350.00 plus shipping

Here is a table of estimated power consumption of the compressor motor of a CS4 under various pressures from 0 to 400 bar assuming a constant 82% SMPS efficiency that matches the claimed 350W motor rating. I tried to measure the DC current and voltage but the signals were way too noisy to make sense out of. I even made a 1st order low pass filter at 150HZ to try to get rid of the noise, but it didn't work much better. It would take too much work for me to measure the DC current (which would be better) than I willing to do. So I used the AC power input to the power supply with said assumptions.

State = the state of the compressor
Watts = input watts to the power supply
Net comp watts = est. watt driving the compressor motor, subtracting the watts used to power the fan and water pump (41w) and adjusting for PS efficiency.
Watts % of max = % of maximum watts the comp. motor will use.

IMO the ratio of the 4 compression stages are spot on. As at 20 bar (~0) the watts used is only 25% less than maximum. Therefore the 4th stage is only using 25% of the power which is ideal. If this wasn't the case it would be possible to pressurize the input air to increase the output as long is you never exceed the maximum watts of 350. But the gains would be minimal so not worth the complexity and effort.

A really nice Aircuda. These airguns are great entry level PCP's. Accurate, very attractive quality wooden stock, and regulated. Asking 350.00 for this one including shipping to CONUS . Call/text Ron 714-296-7489

Nice set up. I actually really like my leapers 4-16. I’m sure there is clearer glass out there but for airgun ranges it seems quite adequate to me.

Came off a Maverick. $80 shipped

Pea-shooter O.G. said:

Great shooting!
Have fun at the Cajuns! What rig are you gonna shoot?

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Well i took my Ghost Carbine.... and it developed a leak at the Dowty (sp?) washer behind the bottle so darn...

FX Chronograph for sale. Works great. Accurate and consistent.

$100 shipped to ConUS

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It never was a thing...rarely, I mean rarely did they discount anything from the major air gun players.

Don't buy and prices will..well you know.