Great review! I like the idea of mounting it to a board for more clamps on the 8 inch block. What we use at the Tuesday morning "Crusty Critter" shoot are 4 inch blocks. Super easy to get 2 clamps on them. Very light for us older types to pick up and put away each Tuesday also.

Tony P.

My $50 Amazon pump wa 150+ from 0 to 3500.

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Hey Joe, when will Pyramydair have these available? Today is Tues 6/4/24

Airguns, Swingers and the highest STD rates in Florida. The Villages know how to party.

Sqwirl57 said:

Me too but I bet that 35 is a dream to shoot in comparison. I think they were a UK exclusive for a bit. I remember seeing an announcement and being really disappointed we weren't going to see them here

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I'm usually not a fan of weihrauch's laminates.....buy they got it right on this one! Love the look of the blue ones, but every one I have seen has substantial defects the weihrauch considers "normal"

New Kraford & Lypt KLS-3 PRS adjustable stock for the FX Impact and Maverick. I have two of these and don't need this second one.

Terms:

• $190 shipped CONUS only. Zelle (preferred) or discrete PayPal with fees

I usually shoot it to below reg pressure for storeage. But as great as it shoots, I hardly ever let it set very long so not really much problem. I just took it on a walkabout. I have a plastic beer bottle replica hanging in a tree, 100 yards kneeling took two shots, 50 yards standing only took one. One great gun.

Thanks guys!

I have (2) complete sets of hand-built, hand tuned vales that are designed to exceed the performance and durability of the factory Taipan valves. I've stress tested all of my valves at 250bar with a a very heavy (sledgehammer) hammer system, and they're virtually indestructible unlike the factory valves. They're designed slightly different from one another, but the perform identically.

The pins on these are made from grade 5 / 6AL-4V titanium with (Ketron) PEEK sealing poppets. The poppets are leaps and bounds stronger than the weak factory nylon poppets. They are machined to a precision tolerance and shaped by hand for optimal airflow efficiency. The valve bodies are crafted from an industrial 485 marine brass, so they aren't prone to micro scratching like the butter soft brass that the factory valves are made from.

These also include a PEEK valve spring pre-tensioning seat that are designed for the factory valve springs.

Terms:

• $175 shipped CONUS only. Zelle (preferred) or discrete PayPal with fees. Once they're gone, they're gone.

I'll be posting some additional Taipan parts soon, but feel free to message me if you're looking for something specific.

It comes out roughly 7mm - not sure what that translates to in Murican. If you are brave a little bit of sanding could do the trick if it's not enough.

Chris_K said:

This is not an SSG solution, but you can still get Hill lightweight hammers, lighter hammer springs (SSS), lighter valve springs. That may help but if you want a lot of power you may not get it with the stock regulator. I looked at mine when I had a leak, and there is almost no plenum volume. I put in a Huma that fits in the same space but the reg is more compact, and partly tucks into the gauge port to offer some more some plenum.

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Thank you.
Not worried about high power but rather a light, smooth efficient shot cycle. I’ve got it tuned at 800fps all stock now at 60 shots but it still sounds like I’m getting hammer bounce.
Just want it smooth and quiet. 800fps is plenty.

That “information” preceded the introduction of AEA pellets by quite a bit, just saying …

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To all reading this thread. I have unintentionally misinformed you regarding reference to a/the AGT/ Vulcan/ Uragan slug guru I mentioned in the previous post. The gentlemans name is Hearkens not Haskins. This has not been sitting well with me since I posted it as myself searching for his name resulted in 0 hits. Hearkens it is “final answer”. “Optimal speed with slugs” is just one of his subjects. The thread is not a recent one, 2022, but was applicable to me at the time & I found it to be well worth reading. Learning is a wonderful thing and is a gift to be shared with others.

We all make mistakes - recognizing them is a step in the right direction.

Radio

Firewalker,

Big Air, Carm or Maple; What is the best in the Notos, no function issues and build quality?

Jerry

The only FX experience I have was way back with wood & metal never need an oring good to go from the box day's.
Looking at (some?) diagram might they be o-rings as in "b13 & B12" on this diagram:

Naturally some on this forum Will know but maybe take a look.


John

Hapo said:

...shroud vent holes...?!?...

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Yes shroud vent hole. Says in the name. A vent hole in the shroud. Some guns have them. Some guns don't have it like the marauder, but ppl still drill a hole to vent it anyways.

Yes. The barrel cleans easier. A good polishing helps a lot. Even waxing.

There are fewer high spots shaving off lead and shallower low spots to trap it.

Here is what I have learned (or believe) about centerfire rifles, lead bullets in centerfire pistols and barrel polishing in general. Hopefully you can use it as a comparison.⁷

You don't need to polish too much. There is a point of diminishing return. Sharp lands and a bit of nap to the metal are great. A mirror polished bore adds friction to the projectiles bearing surface actually increasing copper fouling in a powder burner. I'm assuming this would be true with lead projectiles shot at PCP speeds.

Friction causes lead ablation in my .357 and .44 handguns at about 1000 fps. depending on the lead alloy. I would bet you will find a PCP will do it too around that speed. Abated lead is mighty difficult to remove mechanically if you let it go too long.

Lead alloy is an important factor in leading too. Harder bullets seem to lead worse. Softer bullets can be pushed faster before they foul your bore. Harder lead resists deformation and bears against the barrel more. Soft lead form to the barrel easily and friction never spikes.

You aren't going to polish a barrel enough to worry about friction with bore paste. But you don't have to polish much before you see the full benefit. As long as you don't push your projectiles too fast it takes a LONG time for "leading" to be a problem. You simply wipe it out with a patch and you are cool.

If you push hard lead fast you will get ablation. It will stick thin coats of lead to the lands. That's leading you must worry about. It will affect accuracy and is tough to dig out. Rifles pushing lead bullets fast (even with gas checks) will lead a barrel so bad it takes electrolysis to fix.

As slugs come into vogue and PCPs get faster this will become evident. I'm not sure what velocity they will experience it but it will happen. Polishing the bore and shooting soft lead will help up to a point. Sooner or later they will start plating lead to the barrel just like a centerfire rifle gets copper fouling.

Selling my used compressor. She works great. She has maybe 15 minutes of run time. I’ve decided to go just tank route. When it arrived the black frame was bent so I replaced it. The batteries are Amazon 18 volt batteries comes with 3. Comes with a Makita charger,original box. This is branded Omega which is GX but sold by AOA now. Asking $225 shipped please PayPal f&f

What's your micro set at.

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This listing has been renewed