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Sightron S-tac ?

bbgun dont let that stop you. you can put your own numbers on it and get it right where it should be. Sightron had these on sale last month for 592 plus whatever your governor charges, I bought this model 26016. the small fov is about the only gripe. The moa illuminated reticle was what sold me. I cant see small dots on ffp scopes on low power but I can see this fine .the dark lord of optics did a review on this scope against a vortex viper pst gen II and he had the same gripe and said for the same price he would take the vortex . But then he ended by saying the stac was not a bad scope at all.

Umarex  Gen 1 Guantlet Question?

When you look in the slot where you are putting the tool, what you are looking at is the back of the hammer. What you are doing is sticking that tool in there so that you can wedge it in behind the hammer and turn it so that the lobe on the end pushes it into the valve, releasing the air. Yes, it will probably startle you the first time you get it right. It does take quite a bit of oomph to crack the valve open. I hope the explanation helps.
Yes, great explanation! Got it now! Thanks PC!!!

EDgun  Edgun Leshiy 2 .30 cal reliability

I have a Leshiy 2 .30 and it’s my favorite gun. I had my doubts at first, but I’ve come to believe the L2 can be very reliable. But it’s a complicated system with a lot of small parts and (inherently) there’s a lot that can go wrong. Fortunately, there are a lot of helpful resources to help you diagnose and resolve problems. Nevertheless, it’s not a gun I would recommend to someone who is afraid to get into it and tinker with it. If you have some mechanical aptitude and you’re brave enough to become your own armorer (i.e., parts swapper), you will have a solid platform with the L2. Plus, owing to its modularity, by design, it’s geared toward those who like modify and change things. If all this sounds like one big self-contradiction…maybe, for starters, a semi-auto isn’t what you are after. In any case, regular maintenance is actually very easy on this platform. But, to answer your question specifically, I have had a problem with indexing that I resolved with a turn and half (small, incremental adjustments) on a set screw. I’ve had to replace o-rings occasionally, which is really easy on the L2. And, I had regulator creep issues before switching to the Huma Raptor. Switching the regulator was also really easy (less than 20 minutes). That’s it. It has been very reliable for me.
Thanks for your insight.

My First Rifle, Predator Control

My 0.25 Condor shot 33.95 grain JSB's at 1100 fps for 91 fpe and this was with the power wheel at the lowest setting. I changed the top hat to a 0.166 oriface in order to reduce the power a bit. With the 0.166 top hat the 33.95 grain JSB's are shooting at 930 fps with the power wheel on "6" (max wheel setting is 13).
Was literally just shooting my .25 Condor with the 120cc Plenum installed.

PW:4
Bottle: 4000psi
Regulator: 1500psi (yes 1500)
H&N Barracuda 30.86gr: 830FPS
Apolo Domed 25.4gr: 900FPS

Plenum and 24" barrel sure lets you set the regulator at a really low pressure.

predom lucznik 170

finally found some time to put all back together pesky spring and all
tried out olympia domed pb free pellets 5.5 gr
got max 455f/s on my chromo quite surprising
pretty accurate at 10m
if only something can be done to fix that awful trigger

by the way anybody knows what that little stamp means at the right side of the .177mm stamp
i'll try to upload some pictures if i can find how to

happy plinking, johan

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FX  Well, I have gone and done it my first PCP....

And down the Rabbit Hole goes another innocent, unsuspecting newb type person :unsure: 🤪. Welcome aboard the "expenditure train". You'll know what I mean shortly ;). This is a great forum populated with lots of great people who are eager & willing to help. The search bar is your friend here but when you get stuck the "gurus" are likely to have the answers. Enjoy the ride!

GX CS3 periodic service

I have a couple of questions though. I use Renewal Lubricants Food Grade EP grease for the piston and top of the connecting rod, as this grease comes in contact with the plastic piston guides and seal. I don't know the material used in either, and assuming they're not polyethlene or polypropylene, I'm guessing the grease is fine, but the fact that I don't know keeps me using a silicone based grease. Since it's plastic to metal contact, this seems a good choice.

I'm curious as to the choice of RnT for the piston in your case. Just trying to understand, not being critical. I don't know the makeup of additives in the RnT beyond it's lithium base.

I have had better luck, so far, in the gear box with RnT than GG, as the Green Grease seems to get pushed out, maybe not as badly as regular chassis grease but doesn't seem to stay in place as well as RnT. I ordered a sample of Chevron Open Gear Grease to try also.

I'd be interested in your thoughts, as I am a firm believer that this is the key to longevity of these compressors. Kept properly lubed with something that stays on the gears and used as intended, they will last a long time.

ELR optics

Haha, yeah I didn't realize I had it backwards until I looked at the pic.

I already had the tension right so I didn't change it for that shooting session or I would have noticed.
I have seen other folks face the lever to the front like you have in the photo. Their reason is usually that the pod-loc is a bitch to tighten down and also needs an 11mm socket wrench to adjust the internal preload. If that's your situation and your cal is a gen 2, then you might want to check out this thread:


Sorry again for the off-topic post.

stovepipe
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