I use the same software and have not experienced what you mentioned. It could be because I am not using the wind option.

Found this as well:

Footloose said:

Thanks for the Info mate....I am a bit of a tinkerer but I want something to shoot well straight out of the box especially If It costs over 1k . Great looking setup you have .

Thanks again ..

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Hi Again,
I did not mean to scare you off the rifle. I think you will find any .177 (short of the $5K Thomas or the nearly as costly Air Arms XTI ) has a tough time at 50 yds. The pellets are so small that any wind plays hell with the pellet stability as they are so short.
The FX DRS at $1000 is a great rifle. It is extremely easy to carry, shoulder, and shoot. It is very light and feels right when shooting. The mechanism is simple, the air flow path is short, the valve is quick, and the regulator is rock solid. I have had this rifle completely stripped down (as I like to do) and everything is well made. I would have kept it in the original stock except I wanted an adjustable cheek piece, and I really like the wood look and feel.
I doubt seriously you can get a sub $1K .177 to shoot better out of the box. If 50 yds is important to you then a DRS in .22 is a good alternative. There are a bunch of reviews of the 500mm barrel classic in .22 that shoot great out of the box.
I am really not an FX *****, but I have owned (and sold) a bunch of their rifles. I have also owned and sold other PCP rifle brands. I think the FX rifles are as good as any of the other big players and better than some. To get the most out of any of them you would need to be willing to do some additional work. I would like to compete well in my FT discipline, so I practice a lot and tinker with my toys. Of course, a retired 71 yr old engineer has both the time and inclination to do that.

Cheers,
Greg

Will meet at the sight in range, head down to the woods after sight in. Bring your bug spray and water. Rick

imtrigerhapy said:

It started as a project for shooting then the kiddos wanted some next thing you know have lots of buckets trashed and gobs and gobs of clay. Its prolly not the best clay ever but only costs sweat equity and a family project to spend time with my minions

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Sounds like money well spent.

Enjoy.

Thank you!

Gerry52 said:

The ones pictured are the OLD & RARE Hatsan Vortex pellets (no longer made). As good as JSB's at the time. The newer Vortex Strike SUCK! Don't even bother. Stick with a Diabolo (not Diablo) 44.75. Diabolo is your standard pellet shape.

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That makes sense! I was going to say i tried a tin of vortex pellets and they were garbage. The tin was full of lead shavings.

Over thinking…probably isn’t the only bad oring. Easy to just rebuild and be good to go. My only question is let me know if you find a source for the whole rebuild kit. I need that as I need the little delrin disk not necessarily orings. A of A out of stock forever and no way I’m paying what one costs with shipping from Huma. Can’t find a source. Assuming all the international shipping hassles stirred up by the ridiculous tariffs are why A of A hasn’t had any in forever.

Ackley786 said:

There are just things I always wanted to know and I cannot find a good answer for.

1) does a racoon pup distress call attract racoons? or just predators?
2) does white light scare raccoons?
3) do you have to wait till a freeze to eat raccoons?
4) does human scent scare them away?

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1. Yes, maybe.
2. Yes. Especially at shooting distance.
3. I do not eat them, just use their pelts and they are best in late fall.
4. Yes. No. Maybe. Rural yes, urban, no, in between maybe but probably not.

Very nice shooting. Those are some SWEET groups. Beautiful rifles too. I also have two MK2 Crowns. A 500mm .177 and a 600mm .22. They are two of my favorite rifles that I’ve ever owned. Both of mine are in the Saber Tactical chassis.
Kenny

Looking to upgrade my Brocock XR Commander mag in .22.

Upgrades already done:

-install an AR 15 vertical grip
-XL carbon fiber tank
-Saber Tac Arca Rail

Would like to see if there is a way to change out chassis for something more PRS oriented, sekhmet gauges, and whatever other cool stuff. Appreciate any input!

That LOP on your L2 looks a bit long????

For maximum air efficiency, you want a balanced tune. Reg pressure is critical, and if you tune so that the maximum velocity at a given reg setting is 5-10% over your target velocity, then back off the HST a little for your goal, you'll be close. It's a trial and error process, and can be tedious and time consuming. Some folks will say that you need a reg gauge, but I disagree, assuming you are starting from scratch with a new rifle. A gauge allows you to set the reg at a specific pressure, but you don't know that pressure when beginning with no history. The process will take you to the answer.

I install GRT-4G TRIGGER on Gamo Hunter Extreme Ultimate .25. I sand all the rough surface with 800 grit first and then 2000 grit after that 3000 grit. (1 hr) Now all the friction contact points are super polish and I apply super light thin coat of grease. Result over 80% smoother, over 50% lighter trigger pull (1lbs 12oz) and increase accurate whole lot.

Biggestnoob said:

Hello all, this is my first post here so if I’m posting in the wrong section please let me know. I am a total beginner when it comes to refilling air tanks and was hoping that someone might be able to give from step-by-step advice on refilling a tank at home using a compressor. I have filled my rifles both ways before but haven’t had to refill the tank yet and am wondering if it’s possible to do it at home. The tank in question is the 9.0L Airmarksman tank with the upgraded dual gauge valve (from Utah Airguns) and the compressor I would be using would be the original model GX CS-4. I know the tank will take several sessions to fill if it’s possible, but I am unsure of the exact sequence of steps. Also, what if any necessary precautions and safety issues to follow. If anyone is willing to go over the proper procedures step-by-step it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you and happy shooting to anyone that reads this.

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Welcome to AGN.
Here's my CS4 tank filling setup. You didn't mention wether you're using filtration. I'm filling in 70+% humidity so I've gone overkill.
Anyway, made a one-way male/male foster fitting with fittings off Amazon entering center condolence filter. Valve exiting 3rd filter has bleeder (made this with sourced parts and fittings), so can close it off to retain pressure in the filters and still bleed the line to tank. The Gold fitting into tank had a one-way valve but I removed it so can use to also fill guns with tank (also has it's own bleeder).
Filling tank I'll usually do 30 minute intervals to let compressor and tank cool. However I'm filling in a relatively unconditioned 80f degree room.
The main thing to remember with intervals is that you have to bleed the compressor so you're not restarting it under a load. Which is why my valves to isolate my filters because if you bleed the filters then that's more are refilling them each time. Never completely drain mine, just bleed moisture after use and leave them pressurized like airguns.
This is also a portable set to use at my range.

greenbeans said:

Not hard, just annoying, in particular without a reg tester. Take it out of the stock, degas (full degas, meaning bottle empty…), take shroud and bottle of, unscrew cap of housing with the reg in it. Done, you can now take the reg out, adjust and put it back together. All in all probably 15min. But then full refill, test and cross your fingers… if not good, same thing again

You’re on the other side of the country, otherwise I would have said stop by and shoot both

those are crazy good numbers. I have a mora in .22 and with the 600mm, mostly shooting the 33gr precision at 980 and the 34gr hp at 970 (both .217) with the reg at 152 and I get 60ish got shots out of the mora. And the mora has a 700cc bottle as opposed to a 500cc on the p3, plus you can adjust the valve to not waste the tiniest bit of air…

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Yup, the easiest way to bypass having to degas the whole system is to get a buddy bottle and buddy valve and put it on the gun when tuning the regulator sub12airgunner did this in one of his videos @Bladebum

Just a quick note in case I'm over-estimating the fact that DSF is common knowledge.
DSF stands for Drop Scale Factor (I think) and it's basically a way to create a custom drag curve instead of relying on stock calculations based on BC, velocity, drag model, etc.
In the Kestrel 5700 Elite, you can add DSF values for a rifle profile. Basically, you pick a distance to start adding values (I typically start at 200 yards for rimfire ammo) and you shoot a group at the distance and enter the elevation setting that you used. This is assuming a good zero and a good velocity number. Then you go out further and repeat as desired. So with a rimfire rifle and ammo, I would typically zero at 50 yards, confirm my velocity by shooting at 100 yards, then set DSF at 200, 225, 250, 275, 300, 325, 350 yards. Then your curve is set. If your velocity changes due to environmental factors, the curve will adjust to the velocity, so for a particular rifle and ammo you should only need to do this once.

In my previous post, I realized that my RAW was shooting .2 high at 141 yards and 190 yards and a little low at 175 yards, so I set the DSF in the Kestrel profile to be .2 lower at 141 yards and 190 yards. It was actually a little more complicated than that. For this stage, my Kestrel values were 4.6 mils at 141 yards and 7.5 mils at 190 yards. Because it was a tank trap stage with a lot of movement, I dialed 4.6 for the close target and held 3 mils for the far target. I missed high on both targets so I came down 2 clicks on the elevation turret and that worked. So I set the DSF for 141 yards from 4.6 to 4.4. Because I was hitting the far target by holding 3 mil, I set the DSF for 190 yards to 7.4 from 7.5 (4.4 + 3 mils).

When I go set this for realz, I will be setting DSF values in 25 yard increments starting at 125 yards. I'll probably go to my club to set everything out to 200 yards because it's sheltered from the wind. Then I can add values for 225+ yards at the other club on a day with minimal wind.

The only rule with DSF is you have to set values near to far. If you try to go back and add a value closer than another value you have added, it will jack up the curve and you have to start over.

As zer0dev pointed out, sometimes you can jump up your own bunghole with this, but I set DSF with all of my rimfire ammo and it really gives me confidence in my dope.

Try putting a small o-ring around the base of the threads moderator screws onto & DON'T overtighten, just snug. See if it helps. Just might solve the problem.

I put this together to check tanks and compressors. About 22 bucks for gauge and male foster off Amazon.

Here is a single shot loader I purchased on line from a Canadian company...shipped same day, "very affordable" and works slick as a whistle as the ole sayin goes! Ingenious manufactured...practical, simple and the easiest to load single loader of any of my experiences with other rifles. Great for testing different mfg. pellets at one sitting. Pure quality, Canadian manufactured.

Airgunoregon said:

You sure were Paul, I'll get that fixed. Sorry for the mistake.

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No problem. I'll just try harder next time. Lol

I miss it and never got to try . Just recently saw this was close enough to me.

One of a few from last night. Some would say a .35 is overkill but I’d rather overkill than wound

I have read every post in this thread @Nealgl1985
It seems to me you not only need a new lower to fix the gun, but also a hitman to fix the guy that sold it to you that way

just my too sense
Edward

BobBitchin said:

So true, it's amazing how they just walk past the dead ones to get to the peanut butter. Makes me feel sorry for them, so I let them fill their bellies a little then shoot them. Is it wrong to enjoy get rid of the pest, shoot first and pray later just incase.

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Most executions do offer a last meal so i guess your being kind enough to them .. nothing wrong with that.