Caliber 22 said:

Normally I do sort by head size but with this round I did not sort it. That one that went in stiff was a result of that.

I don't know if "stiff" is the correct word, English is not my home language. What will be a better word for it?

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Stiff works, I normally say "tight fit" but I understood you just fine.

Get in touch with the vendor. My 30 shoots harder than that. Make sure there is nothing (like part of a pellet) jammed up by the poppet rod. That can shorten the stroke when you fire. If it is not that it is probably a weak hammer spring.

I'm always dreaming of a property on a 5000m2 plot of land, so I could do some decent plinking myself. That would require a minimum of 800000 euro though. Still waiting to win the lottery.

*(5000m² = 53820ft²)

I have been using the UTG PRO rings for some time now on all my springers for Hunter Field Target and they are solid as a rock.

L.Leon said:

My Zulus is on an Atomic dedicated to it for ratting, a very specialized setup. Definitely not an all around solution for me on other guns. The Atomic with a scope and red light would be as deadly a ratter…

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Yes sir, and it is an AWESOME setup that totally works great for your close range pesting needs! That is where it shines. It mounts best on a gun with a low mag and/or a "riser rail"(like Impact or AR-looking gun) with a relatively low cheek riser. And for recording video. It IS much better than the ATN monstrosities, imo.
Btw, I could watch your NIGHTtime ratting videos all DAY(haha).

Only used once! Now if yoru chance to give it a try $75 shipped PPFF or Zelle

$200 shipped in great condition. PPFF or Zelle

beerthief said:

nice shots

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Thank you.

Joedirt199 said:

Now try that with the fast moving World War Z zombies and not the slow Walking Dead zombies.

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Quick and precise was the name of this game!

This listing has been renewed

WTB FX Dream Tact Compact. Please let me know what you have. Feel free to call, text, FaceTime, WhatsApp, etc. Semper Fi! Kevin (956) 763-4369

We’ve added 4 additional concrete benches to our 400Y range bringing our bench total to 14 benches this year. We are an hour north of Columbus, an hour south of Toledo and 2 hours from Cleveland or Cincinnati.

We are looking forward to a great season this year and we hope you will join us?

It was the fill port seal. Easy swap and good to go.

Ok false alarm. I watched some videos on YouTube on the software posted around the time I bought my rangefinder and it already had those data back then. I got excited for nothing. I think I was referring to the Strelok Pro chart when thinking about theoretical shots because with the software, you have to have actually have ranged something for it to show those data.

This listing has been renewed

Back Story: I'm calling this a project gun. I purchased it a few years ago as my first quality break barrel rifle. After quite a bit of practice, I couldn't hit the broad side of a barn with it. I bought a JM kit for it, but then thought I'd better get someone else to install it. I sent it to a respected tuner. When it came back I wasn't hitting any better. (It's been a while, but I don't think asked him to tune it; just install the JM kit.) I parked it in the closet until recently when a family member mildly familiar with air rifles borrowed it. When it came back it had a gouge and several scratches (which I've tried to so in the pics).

Bottom line, I don't know if the problem is me or the rifle. Maybe some of each. My guess is that whoever buys it will need to do some work on it. I'm selling it "as is." Scope not included. No sights.

$150 shipped CONUS. PayPal Friends & Family or I'll ask you to pay the fees. No trades at this time. Thanks for looking!

Joe Shooter said:

First, it would be helpful if you knew the specs of the barrel...bore & groove; but this is not absolutely neccessary. You will need a MICROMETER (NOT Caliper) to measure the diameter of your pellet. Some pellet/slug manufacturers give the precise measurement of the ammo in 100th of an inch (i.e. .216, .217, .218 for .22 caliber ammo). Larger calibers usually don't have as many size options. Measure the diameter of the head of that pellet and make note of it. What you want to do next is take that pellet, and push it through the barrel, rear to front, till it exists the front of the barrel. This means you will first need to remove the barrel from the breech, if possible and you feel inclined to do so. Measure the diameter of the HEAD of that same pellet after it comes through the barrel. THAT, is the diameter of your choke. What you want to do moving forward is purchase pellets that are sized by the manufacturer as close to your choke diameter as possible...OR, you can buy a pellet sizer in the size of your choke and resize pellets that are slightly off. This would be your best bet without and avoiding any hardware changes

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Definitely need a decent mike with enough resolution (and gauge blocks to calibrate). The 15 degree points on mine have made it a lot more convenient to measure casts.



Cerrosafe is also pretty awesome for casting bores when you use it correctly. An ingot seems to last forever too.

Up for sale is this Optisan scope. This light and low profile scope is perfect for someone that dislikes top heavy setups. There's three points of damage that I can find: a scratch on the tube, some pits on the scope caps, and the "Made in China" sticker is peeling off. The scratch is from me trying to take off snap rings without damaging anything (go figure). The pits are from me committing mosquito genocide and discovering that DEET bug spray can melt plastic. The sticker peeling off is probably due to my love of Ballistol. Seems the stuff weakens adhesives. Oh, and there might also be some light pressure marks from the scope rings. Other than that, the scope is in fine condition.

I'm selling due to me downsizing my collection and already having another Optisan CP scope.

Here's what the package includes:

-Original box with manual
-Scope caps
-Sunshade
-The scope itself, of course

$325 shipped to the CONUS. PayPal only. No trades.

cdog said:

It worked!
CT, Hawk, Scotty & Jim - thanks for your input. Tank valve handle was on tight. The flipping operating manual is wrong. As you can see below it says to open the cylinder valve when the gage on the fill line reaches 300 bar. I believe that CT is correct in stating that you don't want to open the tank valve until the hose pressure matches the tank pressure, otherwise you're pushing air the wrong way. Thanks again for the help.


View attachment 448647

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That is correct - the idea is - it’s better for the working compressor to not slam up against a huge “X” psi but rather be able to gradually “meet” ambient pressure in the vessel you are charging so your not overworking your compressor.

ChefSparrowRagazzi said:

How can that be answered?

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You know how… shoot them and find out!

Some update. First I like to thank all the people who responded to my posts! It was helpful to make a decision.

Well after talking to the vendor who stated that if something is not working they will exchange it and after 30 days I can return it with shipping on me.
I was inclined toward keeping it and with my curious nature decided to investigate a bit. Took the stock off and almost immediately found that the screw holding the air gauge adapter had been damaged. The hole where the hex wrench supposed to go was rounded off.
Trying to remove the screw was difficult. I had to use an oversized star wrench, forcibly inserted, to be able to turn and remove it, either that, or drill it out.
(Should never been that tight, not a good way to seal a leak, which by the way is a less than optimal design anyway.)
What I found that someone, who should not touch anything similar, tightened the screw so much that the head of the bolt damaged the edge of the counter bore for the o ring where the leak most likely occurred.
So I cleaned the damaged edge as well as I could, and ordered a M5 screw with a larger diameter head that I custom fitted to the adapter.( 10mm ID)
In this way the screw head fits the adapter with minimal side clearance and can't damage the o ring groove so it can create the good seal.
After all this, I got my tanks hydroed and filled and eagerly filled the rifle.
It has been two days and still holding air at 200 bar, so the journey begins....

Cool rig by the way!

I finally finished with this project. The 10" barrel wouldn't allow the mod to screw on, so I made a Delrin adapter 1.7" long. I turned barrel down and made the od of the adapter the same 0.44" of the barrel, then pressed it on. It now fits in the front barrel band. I also made him a knurled knob with an M4 stud so the folding stock can be removed without tools.

Josh,
You'll have to help me out, know the internals of the MAX, not the Standard. Inside shroud, MAX has aluminum air stripper which fits on recessed part of barrel, 4 interconnecting metal baffles held tight by shroud bolt, then shroud end cap with 1/2x20 external threads for optional moderator. What's the Standard like? WM

Awesome thank you