357cal said:

As hunting PCPs, they are considered top-notch. From small to large game, they are the most commonly used. I own a .308; the single-shot mechanism has never posed an issue.

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My initial thought process on these guns were that they were great for large game/small game hunting due to not I having to shoot a lot, and because they always advertised 1in groups at 50yd. For pest removal of iguanas this just seemed impractical and unethical. But I was clearly proven wrong with this platform. It's not my first airforce, I had a .177 talonss but I couldn't get it to group well with the slugs I wanted, and I had a talon tunes condor .30 that was good on power, but was too long and bulky. It looked like I was walking around with an rpg lol.

I recently purchased the Sport from Champions Choice. Shipped to me in 48 hrs. This to me is a magnum springer compared to a R1 which I thought was harsh and now is much more pleasant. How ever the 34's are still harsh. Outside of that it's a decent rifle on par with the HW's. Fit and finish wise. Am hoping it will settle down the more I use it. Looked to me that it was hardly used for the gun itself almost spotless save for a slight mark from scope mount or diopter. About 350 pells through it so far and gets best groups from heavy weights. Oh and Champions Choice are truly top notch in my book.

Thinking of adding a couple molds to my stable:



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You might want to say what pistol you need serviced. There have been many Co2 pistols using 357 in the model names or descriptions. Hopefully it's a Crosman 357, so you can find someone to service it.

Bought a Huben Power Dream Universal adjustable regulator. After an initial bobble by Huben with the M18-1.5 rifle interface i got it mounted on my Barrage (Nick at Huben was awesome!). This is a Z-type regulator so it offsets the bottle another 25mm or so from the shroud. I have a 1.1L CF bottle (85mm diameter) that I could then mount on the rifle. Took a bit of trial and error, the Barrage has a very picky interface and only certain female M18-1.5 interfaces will seal up proper. Got that all solved, set the regulator to 200 bar, filled the bottle to 300 bar. Set up on my "bench" and plinked away, Around 160 H&N Barracuda Match .22 21.14 grain pellets later the bottle pressure finally dropped below 200 bar. I may bring it down to 150-170 bar but the indexing likes 200bar with the moderator mounted (and a 1.4mm x 80mm x 20mm return spring). All this added around 1lbs to an already heavy beast, whole thing weighs in at 14.5lbs. Glad i almost always shoot it from the bench.

Modified the stock, cut off the barrel support so I'll want a couple barrel bands. Jake at JB3DPD.com is great at custom work like that.

Unlike most adjustable regulators the Huben is rock solid and does not drift even a little bit. Pricey but well worth it if you want an externally adjustable regulator. Only negative is to adjust downward you must drain the bottle. Going up is no problem, just turn the 3mm allen head.

Just get a a $150-$200 cheap 4500 psi oil-less compressor on Amazon. They all work pretty good imo. Can even hook them up to ur car battery on the go.

Hi all,

Just thought I'd post this here for future reference...

My D460 plastic front sight (nylon family is my guess) had mostly stripped threads in the mounting hole, thanks to yours truly.
The single 5mmx10mm dog point screw that "holds" the front sight in place was not performing all that well even before the threads were damaged. I was not impressed - the D460 is a fine rifle and too good to be cheapened by wobbly sights.

FYI, there's a very slight ridge lengthwise across the top of the barrel to stop the sight from rotating and a circumferential groove for the screw point to engage which locates the unit fore-and-aft. This is important because it also sets the location of the lever retention assembly, which has a limited adjustment range.
This would be a decent system if the raised ridge fit nicely into the sight recess. Mine does not and that was contributing to some flopping around which I took exception to.

Since the unit also retains the end of the cocking lever I didn't want to go without it entirely, and I was willing to buy a new one.
Before I did, I poked around and found a M6x10mm dog point screw. I didn't even bother to undercut the lead thread (to act as a cutting edge a la tap), just checked to see if the slightly larger screw point fit into the circumferential groove....
It was a decent fit, and the M6 threads juuust fit in the free bore above the old M5 threads and gave a good, strong bite in the stripped area. I used a very short allen wrench to keep from overpowering the nylon, and it required significant finger strength to finish the job.

The end result was to give the sight unit a very stable hold on the rifle barrel. Much better than the original. Because I'm able to apply decent pressure via the larger screw, it isn't going to shift position short of a hard, twisting impact. Maybe not even then.
If I had another D460 without stripped threads, I would improve it by doing this anyway.

I'm not trying to turn a simple thing like using a bigger screw into a big deal (because I just re-read the post and it was starting to sound that way ha ha!) but if anyone out there is having trouble with their front sight, you may want to try this.

Dr. Kralenstein said:

Got my 2260 multi shot pcp put back together after shaping and finishing the K98 mauser stock. American hickory wood with a couple coats of mix wax natural stain and 2 coats poly. Needed a durable finish for this purpose built rig.

The stock smelled like ham or bacon when I was cutting and sanding it! Made it difficult to finish, since I always got hungry for breakfast when working on it.

The sparrows are on to me! They stay out of sight of my shooting position, but their numbers keep growing. So I figure make a rig specifically for this need.

Enter the 2260 pcp. Set up for 30 shots at 11 fpe with RWS Super H points, and they're hitting dimes out to 30 off a rests.

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I'm using my kids old playset as a blind now lol. I sit inside the lower section and it gives me a clear 20 yard shot to all their nests they've built into the vines that grow all over the fiber wires. I don't shoot blindly into that, I wait til they come out to sit on the upper guide wires or the cross wires over my yard. Using the trees as a back stop, I've cleared 10 so far, only recovered 3 that fell were I could get them.

Got this trio a few minutes ago. 2 head shots and one chest. All at roughly 12 yards.

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This one was keeping an eye out for me!

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What a way to go, with a stupid azz look on her face!

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You're builds are as beautiful as your shots, keep them coming good sir!

The leak has been fixed. I received a replacemant valve seat and valve pin under warranty from UA. Replaced both and no more leak. I was unable to remove the old valve seat with unmodified hemostats. So, I modified a pair like in this picture, to make removal easier. Even so I struggled for a bit, but did succeed.:



I used the tool to install the new valve seat:


I purchased a backup valve seat and valve pin to have on hand in my parts kit. I could have sent the action in under warranty to be repaired, but it can be enjoyable working on the gun and getting comfortable with the process. After the repair I tested with leak detecter by removing the side power adjuster. No bubbles and now the gun has been sitting for two days with no signs of any leaks. A side note, If you are monitoring a gun for a slow leak it can be helpful to tap on the gauge when checking. Previously it sometimes looked like my gun hadn't lost air in the last day, then as soon as I tapped the gauge the needle would move down a little. Good to tap the gauge also when checking for creep.

Buy a PP750 with a right hand cocking lever:

@cpl666k9 Thanks. Yes, lots of fun to shoot the rats without them knowing I was there. Thanks for watching.

Algier said:

It’s under warranty . I’ll send it back to the place I bought it from . I’ll post when I find out the issue

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I'm thinking of getting the Hatsan Piledriver in 50 cal and now looking at the comments to see how this powerhouse is in quality. Did you ever find out what was causing the air leak? If so it be nice to read what the issue was. Thanks in advance and very much appreciated.

boscoebrea said:

I am partial to British-made. That said , Mike has been doing his thing for what seems like decades and everybody loves his rifles, so their choices are a great thing.

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I'd like to be and a UK built Tomahawk and Longbow are on my wish list of rifles, but absolutely no complaints about the XS25 I got from Mike.
Also not the only brand I have since I've also got guns in the arsenal from HW/Beeman, Crosman, Benjamin, Sheridan, Hatsan/Turkbuilt Webley, Mendoza, Norica and Umarex.

thomasair said:

The stamped end should be the breech.

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thank you sir

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@drsquall Nice!

Great shot on the 2nd! Especially for ruining wire harnesses!

I been eyeballing the HFT 500. Things I like are the barrel retention system, single shot. 3 grub same as RAW, No shroud which I like. Are we stuck with 12fpe or can we get to 20 ? Ive had some AA dreams lately as my old .22 AA s400or 410, can't remember in a Cocoran custom T-hole stock would hit a tablespoon swinger at 110 tards seemly every time at from my kitchen table.

請幫忙。誰能幫我？

The bolt jams happen most frequently in semi-auto mode. When they do, I find that an ever-so-slight pullback on the bolt resets everything, accompanied by a very faint "click". This has nothing to do with the often-mentioned feed problems associated with the magazine .... I have several magazines and no combination of mags or different ammo makes any difference. The problem is within the gun.

I disassembled everything using the following video ....
It's in German, which I do not speak, but the video is comprehensive enough that this didn't matter.

After pulling it all apart I found a small steel pin (3mm x 17.75mm) which had split in half. This pin is in the trigger mechanism and I'm guessing it takes the full impact of stopping the bolt. And after enough cycles it simply fatigued and split.
In the pics, half this pin is seen still in place in the left side housing and the other half is seen in place in the right half housing (I'm using a small screwdriver to point to the pin).

This is not a hardened dowel pin, a file attacks it quite easily.
I'll replace it with something more substantial.

DesertSilver said:

Use a 1 piece scope mount. Never had that problem using one on my Diana m48 side lever. Make sure the stop screw is in the hole in the scope rail securely.

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Suspect I just under-torqued my scope ring, and maybe the scope was a little oily. I was using a 1-piece Scalarworks unit, for what it's worth.

Anyhow, thanks for all the comments.

Hey guys,
I’ve used Jim‘s “old school“ buttons on all my tunes for the last 8 years.
They work great assuming you can get them past receiver cut outs.
Once in the compression chamber, they hold very well.

I usually rough up the piston with 220 carborundum, wet the correct side of the button with alcohol and glue with loctite super glue. I turn the piston on the lathe to trim the buttons to right height.
Buttons slow the velocity 10-15 fps, hence I usually start with an almost maxed out spring spacing.

The payoff is ….. the shot cycle is very smooth and solid feeling.

... that gun is on my wishlist. When I have a extra 3k to spend. A machine. But I'd probly still pick the .357 version

Consistency is the most important thing. Hold the rifle exactly the same every time. When I first started shooting a springer I held it like the Marines are taught. Wrap the sling tightly around my left arm and hold the butt stock firmly in my shoulder. Many GS died from lead poisoning doing that. Now days I can't do that as my heart really moves the POA all over the place.