I haven't tried the tensioner but you only have about 9 or 10 inches of unsupported 15 mm diameter barrel.. not going to flex much... I did try the clamp system that Scott came up with and could not see any accuracy change... he seemed to see a bit of improvement... I measured and documented the return to zero with and without the system and could see no difference but the measurement increment is so tiny, it's POSSIBLE that there is some. We are talking about the 0.0001" area and the setup was quite difficult with my particular set of tools to eliminate the setup error. In other words, the amount was so small, my measurements were suspect, even though they were near nothing.
Where I HAVE seen improvements is getting the waste air out of the chrono tube and tuning as well as possible to minimize waste air. That apparently doesn't have the same appeal as adding stuff. I'm sidetracking to the DW here but the Ghost can benefit from the tuning part, at least.

Just my $0.02...
Bob

Still holding pressure good, so all appears to be resolved I appreciate the help.

Hi Smok3y
If you know anybody with a 3d printer you can find one- easy to print on Cults3d.com

Best regards

McMullen said:

so the valve stem inside the the gun broke 2 times what did you do.

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I bought 5 new valve stems the first time, so I had spares.
With the Invader you can unscrew the aircilinder wich also contains the valve so you can easily repair it.
Most Hatsans are quit easy to fix.

Full disclosure - i make chronographs, and I have independent certification from the National Measurement Institute to claim that mine "is accurate".
Vid here of me banging on:
There's no way of knowing, unless the manufacturer has a process in place to calibrate the chronograph against a known/traceable chronograph - which is what I do. I have a set of master chronographs which were lab verified (above), and then each & every chronograph is mounted directly to the master chronographs (spacing is ~60mm apart). Even the way its mounted is CRITICAL to achieving reliable & accurate results.
(I could be wrong) but the only two I know of with some form of certification/calibration is the SKAN & NateChrony.

You also need to trust the manufacturer - do they actually do the calibration process? It adds a good amount of time - aka $$$ to the cost of manufacturing. Do they do it - or just say they do (i.e. marketing).

GeneT is bang on the money.
I spoke with a guy here that makes ballistic materials - he's got a $100k chronograph he gets calibrated yearly, really interesting process. Even then - there's stuff that wasnt accounted for in the manufacturers process!

I wouldnt worry much - ask the manufacturer, get a quality device.
Technically its not hard to achieve accuracy - its costly to achieve accuracy.

Another thread here:

TenorTim said:

The gauge on my pcp hand pump had a liquid in it when I bought it. I just noticed it no longer does and the area around the gauge is oily. Is it possible for the liquid to pass into the rifle when I'm pumping air into it? I'm concerned the liquid might have gotten into the rifle. So far the rifle seems to be operating fine. Thoughts?

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Replace the leakers!!

3Crows said:

I am having déjà vu:

Benjamin - Benjamin marauder .25 power tune

Anybody know how much fpe a marauder .25 will have with a stock .22 mrod valve modded taking return spring out and end cap and using a 18lb heavy hammer spring with stock ports and hammer adjustment and air flow screw maxed out I plan on using Benjamin 28 grain dome pellets would like to push...

www.airgunnation.com

Benjamin - Marauder .22 slugs

What's the most accurate slugs for a .22 marauder currently I'm power tuning mine taking the return spring and end Cap out the valve and maxing out the hammer and spring and vms screw

www.airgunnation.com

Do you have a .25 or a .22? The tuning for power is not going to be significantly different. Most people, at least for me, do not shoot slugs because the Marauder barrels are choked and just do not group with slugs, none I have found anyways. At any power level.

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Mine is a .22

I bought a .25 RPB barrel for my first generaton Prophet Performance. I did not slug the barrel, but did buy several brands and types of slugs and the .249 29.5 gr NSA slugs do load easier and so far have proven to be more accurate and consistant, so I think that kind of goes along with you measurements.

High pressure side has a check ball (very small) that keeps the air from entering plenum. The piston has a probe that pushes the check open via spring pressure. As plenum fills, pressure counteracts the spring. This pushes piston probe back away from check ball.

At this point, the oring can extrude and basically lock the piston in place. As pressure in the plenum drops (from shooting), the spring cannot push the piston back to open the check, creating the locked regulator.

Hth,
Dave

Kovas said:

You were right - that split o ring was causing it to turn slow! Took a risk and kept cranking- came off just fine!

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Yeah easy fix

Got it sorted with .452mm! Thanks all!

I have that brass adapter joewr. And the pistol looks like shambozzie's. Bandito.

And if ya just gotta go shoot somethin’ (and ya know ya do..) find your way up to Tulsa and try on some of them Okies for an AAFTA style match on July 13th AND one week later (July 20th) Oklahoma City will be hosting their XFT match.
Ya’all ain’t skerd are ya?

Archer10x said:

Lou, where do I find the Open Grove N50 schedule? I like to come out and shoot with you guys again.

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Here ya go.

It doesn't get much better ! A good gun in the right hands ! Well done especially using the different pellets

Rain said:

Is that the right order to connect the filters? Compressor-->desiccant filter-->coalescing filter-->dive bottle/gun cylinder.

I thought to put the coalescing filter first, to get more/ longer use out of the desiccant.

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I was not talking about the order of using filters, but of the choice of only two paths that would be certain to prevent condensation from occurring in reservoirs: either 1) a desiccant filter to adsorb the water vapor, or 2) a chiller to cool the air charge below ambient with a coalescing filter as part of the set up.

That said, using a coalescing filter before a desiccant it a very good idea, because it should help it last longer - of course the trade off is more "wasted" compressed air that evenetually gets vented rather than used. An even better idea would be to put that coalescing filter in a bucket of ice water to further cool and condense even more water vapor into liquid before the desiccant does its thing . . .

dgeesaman said:

@Hamdanali89 : You should not be posting a slug press in this thread about pellet swaging. 1) it's completely off-topic to the pellet die application and 2) you're obviously hawking equipment for some reason. Go start your own thread if you are compelled to spam the forum.

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He isn't hawking equipment. Been following precision slug press and this guy is just a customer giving his experience and feedback with the press. He posted on the wrong thread probably because he saw the name "Thor" and was just giving a comparison and feedback with the press. His English might be rough so cut him some slack

Sasquatchlives said:

Thanks all! I’ll give those a shot

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Yes that foster has a small screw with an O ring. If the screw is too tight it smashes the O ring and it won’t take air. If you unscrew the assy from the end of the air tube with the foster still attached, you’ll see the very small screw. Back it out very slightly. It may take several tries to get it right. Of course degass the rifle before unscrewing the end of the tube.

steve671 said:

I don't know how much I spent, but I would guess about $700-$800 for everything. At the time I purchased the Yong Heng, the availability of other compressors was much more limited. I don't remember when the Tuxing 032 was released, but I know that when I was looking to buy the compressor initially, it didn't come up in any of my searches.

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Supply chain shortages have been a major bummer…

So apparently I posted this in the wrong place. Anyhoo, I answered my own question. They shoot just fine, forward or backwards.

I just came across this 65mm Wika gauge that displays bar and psi at Trenier Airguns. Thought I’d post so people can find it easier.

Greetings to all, I am new to the forum. I appreciate the opportunity to share with you. My name is Javier. I currently have the Airforce Talon P and the SS. Excellent rifles in my collection are #1. I have tested them at good distances and I assure you of their effectiveness. .

keesbo said:

Hatsan has no quality. They are really crap.

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And yet I have several that just work as designed. Pellets in, pellets out, pests and targets dead. I did break a few things modifying them but that isn't Hatsan's fault. Amazing how after 2-3 years I haven't seen the issues whined so much about. But then most of the whiners have never owned a Hatsan or pretty much any rifle, AEA, they whine about.

Where they do fail is HEAVY.