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How much rubber mulch to stop pellets?

I use one of the black storage containers from Costco/HD/Lowes with the yellow lid. Not sure the size but I'll include a pic below. I then place 3 bags of rubber mulch into the container, one on top of the other. I don't open the bags up and the length and width seem to fit perfectly and the height of 3 bags brings it right near the top.

I have shot everything from 30 fpe up to my Slayer 357 into this and nothing has ever made it past the second bag. Just to be sure though I have some backing behind it which is a 1/2" piece of plywood with about 4 layers of ballistic fabric (this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I80KV1W) which by itself 4 layers will stop a 18gr 22 pellet at 30fpe. Behind that is a 1ft concrete house foundation.

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Snowpeak  Snow Peak M60B Plenum Upgrade?

Got this Monday, problems right away !
Well couldn’t get to clock right or seal with
o rings that came with it. Then took off new Huben and bottle
them o rings then wouldnt seal. Ordered 3 kits on Amazon.
Oooo Amazon here now….View attachment 550429
Amazon overnight. Saved my new zelcom quick.
Ordered o rings at 7pm. Got them by 10 Am next morning. Up and running at 10:15!!
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Gamo  GAMO BUYERS BEWARE!!

Well, my Gamo Magnum is a few years old and and has more than 20,000 pellets through it, very accurate. It also has the synthetic breach and barrel latch and all that is still as good as new, very smooth and I am sure it will last many more years. Many people complain about plastic parts on the Gamo Magnum without testing or actually having problems with it.
I did not see any Magnum with a "thin metal liner" but I see a lot of FX rifles with thin metal liners and those owners think it came down from heaven. Please post a photo of the "PLASTIC BARREL with a thin metal liner".
Are you the same person (Dave) who complained on GTA as well?
Cool story.

Theoben  Just wanted to share my new toy

Once you realize that the need to eat every day is a lie brought on by big grocery, Theobens really aren't all that expensive and easy to save up for.
My buddy Sonny is "in my opinion" giving away an Eliminator!!! I told him to put it in the safe "like I did mine" I can't help that think the intelligent shooters will eventually understand! Or maybe I'm just old:rolleyes:

Coming back to Airguns after a couple years off.

Well this is nice.

I have a tuned Tx200 and the scope is good out to 35-40 yards. Then the price point shows up and I can’t range find as well as the gun can shoot from 35-55 yards. Fifty is just as clear as forty five.
I have always wanted a good scope and a fancy laminated stock with a cheek riser and hamster.

Now I suddenly have money from selling some old tools I will never use and did not expect to ever sell. It’s like free money and a big space in the garage. So I can spend over a grand on a scope.
What to get?

And the nagging question. Should I get an HFT 500 FT ,scope and compressor?

I want one. I can afford it .

I don’t really have a great place to shoot it or anyone to shoot with. But I’m working on that. I have no reason to get one. But if I put a scope and a stock on my TX it’s 1500 bucks and for another 1500 I can go with the HFT get the cheek riser and hamster. Something I always wanted for the TX.

Now I’m hesitant to get the scope or do anything. It’s a good problem I appreciate having. I feel blessed.

Benjamin  Upgraded transfer port for large ported Marauders

The Marauder's valve is quite limited in porting, having only a .3" spot faced flat spot to seal against, with .22"x.24" ports that leaves nearly .03" to seal against.
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I've never been too happy with transfer sleeves made from plastics, sure they work but sometimes they don't seal great, sometimes they do, they deform and if/once they do, they're trash, and, .03" wall on plastic is...well some may say a ticking time bomb. I've never blown a transfer port but heck, I am sure it's possible.

The transfer port I am running is made of a series of tubes epoxied together with tight press fits. I drilled my breech end of the marauder to .343" at a depth of around .185", this allows me to seal to the breech instead of the barrel. This also allows me to swap out calibers/barrels very easily with just loosening the two set screws atop the breach while swapping out probes with my custom bolt that allows it. Mike/mackeral gave me the idea which he took from Travis, and it works quite well as the barrel to breach fitment is to tight it doesn't allow blow by, and o-rings aren't even needed there, but could be added optionally.

I will say I struggled for quite some time to get a really good seal with a one piece delrin/nylon sleeve. I even machined not one, but two so well that they snap fit into the .06" deep .3" diameter spot face flat on the valve, literally snapped in, and it would still leak upon assembly at that connection. There is no forgiveness in assembly when you rely on a piece of plastic to crush perfectly every time. I should have tried something soft like teflon but again, upon multiple assemblies you risk deformation that won't reseal and you'll be remaking the seal again. Frustrated I came up with a few designs and went at it.

Here are 3 different designs. Design 1, requires critical dimensions. Design 2 much for forgiving. Design 3, beefier orings, the ones pictured are not the 100% correct size, I tossed em on for the picture, overall close in size though and will work great, just need to order the o-rings or shape the breach one a hair smaller.


From left to right, #1) Old transfer sleeve (Nylon). #2) New/prototype, aluminum/brass sleeves oring in breach and replaceable soft seal for valve side. #3) New prototype sleeve #2, beefed up double o-ring version.


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Don't mind the marks, I time my transfer ports as they are blended to match my oval porting on both valve and breach sides. I can also double o-ring the middle design too but I was just having fun with different ideas.

I'd say this style of transfer tube is a must for marauders, mimicking the original design but just beefing it up. If it works, it works, and it simply works. The marauder breach doesn't have screws that seat the transfer sleeve perfectly from front to back and o-rings not only solve that, they extend the life of your transfer sleeve if you tear down a lot like I do to tinker, and even if not who wants to redo something unless its to improve or change it up, such as I did today.

-Matt

New to PCP- NEED A FILL TANK

If you're referring to your compressor as a rattle box I would assume that it's a small inexpensive model. Before you decide to purchase a bottle you want to make sure that your compressor is going to be able to fill it. It may reach the desired pressure but it may have to run for days to fill it too capacity.

N/A  Who shot their .177 today ?

Duplicate thread

Continue the discussion here

Double Moisture Filtering

I am using hill ec-3000 pump evo with dry pac pro to fill my revere and drs directly…
also I live in a super humid area ,
I think the only true way to tell if ur pcp tank is getting dry air is when u shoot and u don’t see any sneeze effect down the barrel end!!!!
which I don’t so that means i m okey.

Shoebox compressor leaking low cylinder

Never had that issue, because I always followed the directions on how to do it. It's all up on YouTube (as is pretty much anything you'd evver want to fix if you search for it). Since parts are no longer available for these wonderful little gems, it is important to do things right and not guess so you don't mess them up . . . .

These videos are of an older style, but they all work the same way - expect the black nut looks different since it does not have the auto lube system (that came later).

Cylinder removal:
Cylinder rebuilds:
I watched the video and decided since I had the cylinder already off to just go and rebuild it cleaned the check valve good and got all new o rings in it and Teflon tape I'm glad mine has the permanent ferrule on the air lines with the washer and o ring so you don't have to worry about the ferrule getting wore out and leaking.

Omega Turbocharger -Loud Pop

I was filling my small omega tank today and at almost 4500 psi I heard a loud pop ( scared the s--t out of me) and a wierd noise. Air was pumping out of one cylinder but the other cylinder was still woking. Closed the tank and turned off the compressor. Figured that it must be the burst disc and it was. Repalced it and cleaned the valves, tested it with a deadhead, filled my Huben to 300 bar, Everything worked ok.
I've had the compressor 3 1/2 years, 65 hours of use, first maintenance other than turning the grease ports.
Previously owned an Omega Supercharger - 5 1/2 years, 260 hours.
I’d imagine they fatigue after 3 1/2 years of holding back 300 bar.
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Air Venturi  Avenger Rail Adjustment Question

Appreciate it. I did tighten screw 4 down a slight bit so it wasn't holding the rail up... which has solved my issue. Still would be nice to know what that one does, but hasn't effected anything that I can see.

Scope is 1". Vortex Diamondback. I could go with different rings, but was JUST out of reach. Tightening the rails and #4 did the trick and now everything is dialed.

May have to upgrade the rails for him eventually but we're both happy with the way its working now.
Hi I just came across the thread now. If I'm right the "#4 screw" is a probe alignment screw. At least that's what it seemed to do on mine. Just turn it in till the probe goes into the center of the breech. This could also potentially help the probe orings last longer

Crosman  Crosman M-130 ,22 caliber


Crosman M-130 ,22 caliber.


Hello to all;


I was, browsing a local Gun show some years ago and came across a table that had a Crosman M-130 .22 caliber pump pellet pistol on the table with a sign that said; “It don’t Work” make me an offer!! I was on my way out and said what the hell; I offered the guy 15 bucks and he said, it’s yours!!!!


That’s how I came to own a M-130, fellow said he didn’t know much about the pistol, got it in a trade with other items, and had no use for it. The pistol was the second variant with the formed metal pump handle and self-cocking system made from 1955 -1970; the first variant had a pinned wood handle on the pump arm and wood grip panels 1953-1954. (The Model .137 was the .177 caliber).


The pistol itself had a rather utilitarian look, with an aluminum breech, sliding bolt with cover, 8-inch rifled barrel, weight about 1 ¼ lb. blued steel finish, OAL 11 inches. A bent square wire looking front site (part of the front tube plug) and a diminutive rear site, which at first glance seems to be installed backwards!! It does have minimum lateral windage adjustment no elevation adjustment and, push type safety on frame, sold for $9.95 new.


Personally, I was never a big fan of the self-cocking systems; some had a propensity for firing during pumping or otherwise unintentional discharges! I made a habit of never loading a self-cocker until after it was pumped up and pointed downrange!! I have a Model 140 rifle, well actually one of my Grandsons has it now, and I can say however, that I never had an unintentional discharge, but have read of such instances and do take the precautions mentioned above. These systems also had the negative effect of increasing trigger pull weight with each successive pump!


I have read the self-cocking system was developed because the factory had numerous returns on standard bolt cocking rifles for valve lock from over pumping? Maybe, I don’t really know, but the self-cockers with the blow off /dump valve system activated by the trigger were finally eliminated from Crosmans catalog after 1970.


Mine set in the safe until recently; I finally decided to rebuild the M-130 to see what it had to offer as I have also read they were really pretty weak shooters. None of the factory info I have seen, ever quoted any velocity figures, just stated 3-5 pumps for most normal shooting? Anyway, we will find out!


The rebuild was pretty uneventful, Original O-rings dried/hard, rubber pump seal hard and dried out, quad seal crumbling etc. after a thorough cleaning and replacement of all seals the pistol was reassembled, I gave it 4 pumps and fired, got a pop, at least it was working!! I set up the Chronograph and since the factory recommended 3-5 pumps, I started out with 3 pumps using RWS Hobby pellets 11.9 grains and got a whopping 243 fps! Went to 5 pumps and got 303 fps and this was what the factory recommended?? Eight pumps 325fps, and 10 pumps 339fps.


I don’t know if this pistol is representative of the velocities too expect from one of these units or if it is an anomaly, this one certainly falls in to the aforementioned “Weak Shooter” category!! - Others may have far superior results velocity wise than I was able to achieve?? I was expecting about 350-395 fps on 8-10 pumps, guess I was expecting too much!!


I decided to move on to accuracy testing using the same RWS pellets and set up at 25 feet using 8 pumps for all shots but before I do, some reflection on my part; and my remarks about the low velocity numbers on this unit. The M-130-137 pistols were introduced in 1953; this is just 8 short years after the end of WW II, “CHRONOGRAPHS WERE UNHEARD OF IN THAT TIME FRAME” except in the Military and some scientific circles, and certainly not in the general public!! I can sit now and spout velocity numbers with ease because I have a chronograph!!! This was just not that relevant back then, making a tin can roll or shooting minnows in a pond certainly was and the M-130 is certainly capable of that!!! What I am saying after a bit of reflection, is I believe I was a bit too critical of my M-130 and the velocity it achieved. In 1953 it would have been perfectly acceptable! One can’t realistically compare satisfactory results today with satisfactory results from 67 years ago as they are based on completely different expectations!!


I think some of us suffer from “Magnumitis” now and then, certainly, I do at times, and I believe my remarks on the velocity of my M-130 above is one example of it!!!! After all, the Crosman 130 series were in production for 15 years!!


Anyhow on to the accuracy test, using 8 pumps, with the target set at 25 feet I shot a 5 shot group of 4 into .750” center to center to center with a flyer bringing the 5 shot group to 1.230”, the flyer was actually my fault!! At this I point decided to try some Crosman 14.3 grain PMHP; 5 shot group results 1.175” center to center. The pistol is capable of ¾” – 1.00” groups at 25 ft.


The groups were low, but I did not want to risk bending the front sight, so I just aimed about an inch high! This pistol is certainly a capable close range plinker; as I think it was designed for! I would bet that those folks who owned these pistols 60+ years ago were glad to have them; and I am pleased to have this one in my collection!!


Garey



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Crosman  Help with 1977 pumpmaster 760

Yep. ^

They threw me as well. A set of wirecutters works well to gently pry those off. Do one side first, then push on the pin that goes all the way through.

Cheers,

J~
That's what I ended up doing after I read jimbentley's comment:
That is cap over the roll pin. It should just pop off.
Thank you both for the help
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