Hello everyone,

OK here is my latest modification to improve the Trigger Pull on the Beeman Marshall 2028.

I want to state again that I am NOT a gun smith and the modifications that I am showing here are based on the information that I gathered from the internet.

This mod is making and installing a new “return trigger spring” out of .0340" stainless steel piano wire. After I completed the mod shown on the Walnut and Steel video and leaving out the “return trigger spring” , the trigger pull was down around 3 to 4 ounces. I could not accurately measure and after shooting the Pistol I just did not like the “feel”, or more specifically the lack of feel.

I like 1 to 2 pounds of trigger pull on all of my air guns so I decided to make a replacement “return trigger spring” . If you look at the first photo you will see that the “angle” or “opening” between the two ends of the wire on my replacement spring is a bit larger. Using this wire and that opening is what gave me the final pounds of pull. I could have reduced the opening and made it a bit less than the factory spring and that would have resulted is a lower pounds of pull required. I will shoot the Pistol with this setting and if I decide that I need it to be lower than the current 2-pounds, then all I will have to do is reduce the opening.

Hope this will be helpful if you own one of these Pistols,

ThomasT

ZekeZX10 said:

Hope they take care of that quickly

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I spoke to someone today and I just sent them over my info, so hopefully they get me back a shipping label so I can get this shipped today!

karl_h said:

For someone doing a lot of resizing of bullets, I can see the draw of that. You still have to handle every individual slug to load the tube though, should save some time over what I do, but not really that much. For the little I ever do, I just mount my single stage upside down, using lee bullet sizing dies, drop the slugs in the die, pull the handle, slug drops out and drop the next one in. Slugs/bullets are lubed of course. It's been probably near 2 years since I resized any bullets, obviously not a priority for me. Last time was doing 20 jacketed bullets for PB that were not uniform straight out of the box, tried sizing some and tested. Ended up no better and no worse than before...., but the bullets were much more consistently round. Shot the rest of those bullets up plinking without resizing them.

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You can buy some sort.of thing that goes.on the feed tubes to fill.them point down.. For $300.00 probably not worth it..I don't know if I can get cast a moa at a 100 yards consistently ....I might be swage or buying some in the future..

JungleMike said:

Gun Brokers now charges sellers and buyers a membership fee that really ruined it. but thanks!

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Yes because it cuts down on scammers.

Hi folks,
I picked up a used 1077 recently and it’s been fun to shoot. During my last outing though I had issues with the pellets jamming. I looked close at the magazine and it seems the top chamber of the cylinder never sits quite at 12 o’clock but is skewed slightly to the right. Considering I never checked prior to shooting it I’m wondering if this is normal? If not is there an easy fix? Whether it’s normal or not, does anyone make a more robust magazine for it? This mag is just plain cheesy and I am waiting for it to break.
Thank you,
Captain Fun out!

I think it's important to remember that bubble/electronic levels are "cant indicator" tools. All tools can be used correctly or incorrectly.
Ideally, they need to be properly set up to align your vertical crosshair to be perpendicular to the guns action(at level) and centered on the bore line. A tall target test can help verify results.
There are several methods(plumb line, mirror, etc...) to help accomplish this.
However, even if you are using a non-perfectly mounted anti-cant indicator device, you will get much more CONSISTENT results, which are MUCH easier to find a way to correct, if they do not meet expectations.

uladz said:

Awesome, video reviews are the best. Thank you for your time and effort!

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Should have read some of the manual online...lol

Realize now it needs just the one 18650...and we get two with the scope. I'll do a little more in-depth this weekend with hopefully some nighttime mouse poppin' in the woods!

uladz said:

Sorry, what was the question actually about? How to decode the SN?

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yes haha you guys are some hooligans!

That's quite impressive!

L.Leon said:

No ignorance on your part, just “my personal” preference is all…. “shot count” can be overrated and overstated particularly for hunting. My 33 shot count Atomic XR is plenty for ratting. Because getting 30+ shots on rats is extremely rare. There was a time I got 30 plus rats a night, but those days have passed. I prefer cyclinder PCPs and do have two single bottle guns… But draw the line on two bottle guns…

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Thank you for the explanation . Appreciate it!

Another fine XFT match in OKC, just look at the scores! Only one shot separate 2nd through 8th place. Now that’s some fine shootin’ right there. I saw a small deer in the parking lot when we pulled in just before the rain started to come down. Don’t know if it’s really brave or really ballsy for it to walk into to a gun range if you ask me.

Just went a found my manual. Apologies I was a bit off on what it said. But they really don't require a lot of grease. I'm now following the method I described above, deadheading test every few hours and a little grease if it's slowing down.

Well I have two from him & love them. I do not know much about 3D printing, but I do know they have come
along way from what they use to be. I talked to Terry at Buck Rail printing & told me the plastic he uses is
much more expensive than what most people use. He is making gun stocks, barrel bans,ect there for haft the cost
most are charging.

airman_o said:

@AR i just bought it, and I love it. Great compact scope. Clarity and sharpness are excellent.

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Perfect, thanks for the reply

I can look at this pic, and know what you need, no guessing.

Without a doubt, the rugged looking one has personality.

Airgun-Revisions said:

Yeah all that is going to be the same. Huge difference is the stock being used offhand way nicer. The grip up front allows the gun to be pushed to the shoulder easier and supports the gun better for charging the next round. So offhand shooting I found this design really nice. Especially with a red dot.

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I wish the previous owner of mine didn’t hack the stock up. I had to secure the front with a longer screw and a washer. What little they put back together, the valve spring was backwards. It was an adventure.

They are great bullpups. I’m with JimD and would have bought a Bullshark 25 if they were available when I bought my P35. The rifles are currently swapped stocks.

VneMC2 said:

I initially "invested" spent money on the least expensive compressors that, while adequate for rifle filling always failed in durability when compressing for high volume high pressure applications. I spent more on all the "starter compressors" than it cost to buy a SCUBA rated gasoline powered compressor, sued, from a reputable dive shop supplier in Florida

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Agreed. That’s why I’m saying that I do not advocate for “consumer” behavior, I.e. throwing away stuff instead of fixing. But investing 1000s when you just get into this sport not knowing if would keep it going also not really advisable. But extended warranty with cheap compressor helps a bit as @Air King noted .

Bagnall & Kirkwood in the UK sell them in various sizes, bought my metal trigger guard and o-ring kit there too. The match style trigger is from Rowan Engineering in the UK, oh and the cocking lever is from an ebay dealer also from you guessed it…… .

ElkhartFarmer said:

Hey guys

New to the forum. I'm strongly considering the .50 Umarex Hammer Carbine since I heard the magazine air release was fixed. My thing now is appearance. The full sized hammer has the smaller bottle and the hand guard, but the carbine doesn't. I'm an AR guy and love a good M-lok rail. I LOVE the FX Impact M3 look with a saber tactical rail, but can't get behind the price.

With the carbine having no hand guard, that area just seems a lil too bare. Any ideas or experience retrofitting a rail like the saber tactical over the barrel? Or even retrofitting the full size hammer's hand guard over the larger bottle on the carbine?

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There is a open box used hammer carbine at Utah Airgun for $850.00 just saw it....

JimD said:

I played with a fpe calculator and I think a ~20 fpe 25 caliber is pretty doable. You could push 25 grain up to about 600 fps and if your gun happened to like 20 grain FTTs you could go almost to 700 fps. Those are not high velocities but are in the same range as the stock tune on my old Prod. Inside 30 yards I think it would work great. Nice big pop on the pigeon but less chance of penetrating the roof. Getting an inexpensive 25 caliber to 50 fpe can be a challenge but tuning it down to 20 fpe should be easy. It would be quieter and use less air. Should be fun to shoot.

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I'm currently making a low power 25 for close range and indoor pest work. Hoping for an accurate shooter at 550 fps with 25 grain pellets.

Smitty911 said:

Just bought a 12v/110v off of Vevor for $149.00 shipped. I have two young hengs but this seemed to be cheap insurance and people have had great luck with them. Oh, it came with Alligator Clips for the battery and terminals for the included 110v power supply.

Smitty

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My thinking is the same .

yeah. soldering iron and just let it happen. no planning haha

fantastic combo

Scope looks like a rebranded discovery/vector/westhunter compact scope that has so many brands using it already.