Does anyone know where ican find a video showing how to remove dragon claw 2 and Gauntlet 2 barels? Thanks in advance!

Frank in Fairfield said:

Get a used jogging carriage from Goodwill and build your own:

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Wow. He came with the high tech gopher pesting rig!! I like it!!

I have the .177HP set up for field target. The rifle is a shear pleasure to shoot and the only part I’m not happy with is the size of the cocking handle, I would prefer one a little shorter but I haven’t gone looking for one yet.

I normally avoid having the barrel come in contact with the tree but it has happened before with the Taipan. I‘m out hunting for the skillet so what ever it takes to make the shot I’ll do usually. My average distance I guess is inside of 40 yds although I never use a rangefinder squirrel hunting. 95% of the the shots the Taipan work’s fantastic, as it’s put a lot of food on the table, but the high in the tree directly overhead, is my achilles heel with it. The Royale would just be another tool to use, thus the question. Thanks for the replies!

I was hitting a kitty cat sized steel which is 14" wide nose to tail and 8" from belly to back, this at 300Y yesterday with my Vulcan 3 and Altaros 60gr slugs. Some wind so 1.5 mil holdoff and after 8 hits in a row I called it quits.

What I really want as far as the next step up is higher BC than G1 .245 of those Altaros 60's but also not super heavy slugs of the 45 cals so am thinking 30 to 375 cal with G1 BC of .4-5 at around 1000 fps. Been waiting and waiting for years for some other rifle to catch my interest. This Bintac has the form factor I'm interested in so I'll keep watching.

I'd like for the company to elaborate on how the barrel is attached and how robust the action is.

I have several of these scopes. Excellent for the price. Repeatable and tough. Mine will focus to 8.5-9 yds. They come with a large wheel you can put on. Great veterans program. 35% of MRSP. Sorry I mixed up scopes. Mine are Sightron STacs. I also have several Hawkes but no Frontier.

D75 is likely very well for the stock

Hello my friend.
How are you?

My name is Joselito, I'm Brazilian and I need help to clarify a doubt.

I have an FX IMPACT M3 in .22 caliber and I recently bought a Liner Heavy and received it in the 1.18 version in the 700mm size. I haven't seen any information about it or about the difference between the 1.18 and the 1.16 on any website or forum.

I noticed that the shock of the 1/18 is much greater than that of the 1/16, because the velocity decreases a lot with the 1/18.

Could you explain to me what the technical difference is between the Liner 1/18 and the 1/16?

Thank you

airgunmike56 said:

I have some in-laws in Border Patrol , They said the USA will collapse in the next four years if we keep letting in millions of alien's, They said for the ones caught there is three to five getaways which puts the number close to 30 million now in the USA, Think about it...
Mike

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The solution is to address the problem. Putting our fingers in holes in the dam isn't working.

Yes, we have a problem. Politics is making it an impossible one to address.

If the US collapses it won't be because of a million Hondurans trying to escape violence in their home country. It will be because we refuse to cooperate to address the issues.

Every developed country in the world is experiencing it. At some point we must stop using it as a political tool and start facing the facts.

Think about it....

Dr. Kralenstein said:

Or the Air Maks krait L. Those are sweet looking.

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I still want one of those lol

Rich_B said:

How is the electronics debacle coming along?

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Still haven't found a cheap laptop to program the Arduino. I could do the electronics without a chip, I received some helpful diagrams from fellow members but I would still have to do some thinking & tinkering, unfortunately I'm currently too lazy for any of that: changing duty cycles, dwell etc. is a lot faster & easier with a chip.

I have seen a few posts asking various questions about buying compressors.
I am not a fan of “cost efficient” compressors but wanted to shave some cost off a good one.
I ended up buying a used Daystate/Coltri MCH6 230V. I bought it with 56 hours on it. I ran it for another 32 and then started having issues. It started with smelling hot oil, seeing some oil film on the base and finally a loud popping noise coming from the 3rd stage cylinder head area.
A call to Nuvair, and the learning curve is engaged. I learned this compressor should have the cylinder heads of stage 2,3 and 4 rebuilt every 100 hours. The 1st stage I believe is every 500 hours. Not a problem. Parts arrive and I see right off the parts sent do not match the parts removed from the 2nd stage head. Quick email and that problem is resolved. Apparently the unit I bought had a 2nd stage head that was only used for 6 months and a kit to update to the current version is required. There was no way Nuvair could have known.
When I removed the head from the 2nd stage I noticed the head bolts were barely snug and no where near the specified torque. Same for 3rd and 4th stage. I am fairly certain that this was the cause of a copper ring failure on stage #3. When I removed the head on Stage #4 I got a bit carried away and went one step further into the head than necessary and found an O ring not included in the kit that was bad. Ordered a new O ring to be shipped with the new 2nd stage head assembly.
While all that sounds bad, I would like to say that the pump is not overly complicated and easy to work on. Nuvair has been a godsend. Craig has been more than helpful and quite patient. Total cost of parts is right around $500.00. Small price to pay for a valuable lesson. It could have been much worse.
The point of this post is to warn folks about buying a used compressor. Not saying do not do it, but I am saying unless you have fair degree of mechanical intuition, I would warn you away from it. The problem being is that you have no idea who has been working on it or what degree of mechanical aptitude or experience they had. Also no idea of the maintenance performed if any. I wanted to let people to see what may happen if you go the used route and forego the warranty from the factory.
I do not regret having bought this one nor the process that I have gone through with it. I like working on stuff and what I have learned will serve me well in the future.

beerthief said:

good looking 44 , Jackrabbits might be a bit tough i am told , but that is what a pot size pressure cooker is for .

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Dana and I tried it once. He deep fried it with a home made bread crumb mix. It was OK with Tapatio and I washed it down with a beer, but yeah I think he should have used a crock pot instead.

Use code GLADIUS at checkout.

Go aftermarket for magazines. They seems to cycle better for heavier slugs. Also for the super heavy ones just don't fill the magazine full. Just put 5 to 10 at a time as the weight is too heavy for many of the magazines made.

Alleb

Dr. Kralenstein said:

Well if the gun is meant to be filled to 250 bar by the manufacturer, they should set it up to perform that way. They should just call it a 200 bar fill gun not 250. Kind of misleading. It'll handle it safely, just doesn't perform correctly at that level.

Being a 25, I would open all the ports up to 3/16". If it's anything like my Kral Jumbo in design, it'll put out 60 fpe with the right work and pellet. I get 50 fpe with only a 16" barrel and 3/16" ports. Dual shorter springs. Outer is stiffer with a softer/smaller, reverse wound wire spring inside that spring.

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Good day sir
Any chance that you can give diameters of the springs you've used?
Ive got a super jumbo and batteling get massive fps
Any feedback would be appreciated

Hi guys, looking for fx impact 500 mm slug tunes.

I see Alteros has some 50 grain high bc can these be run in the impact. Any help with tunes.
thanks in advance

How do you order a different caliber barrel if you want to change?

I've owned two K60s. Here are my testing notes of the second-

.177 Pardini-Fiocchi K60 #2 ten-meter Co2 pistol

8.44gr JSB Exact, 98 degrees, 10 shots, as received 464 482 18 6 471/4.2

8.44gr Exact, 98 degrees, 10 shots, power maxed 537 557 20 7 547/5.6

8.44gr Exact, 104 degrees, 10 shots, power maxed 551 569 18 4 560/5.9

I shot another target a few minutes ago and I no longer believe it makes sense for me to sort H&N Baracuda 18s. Let me explain. After my initial sorting of a partial tin of about 150 pellets I shot the different weights on a couple targets one of which I posted in this thread. Both targets showed 50% 10s with 18.3 and 75% 10s on other weights. This was a total of about 16 targets with 18.3s, however. That is all I had. Mostly they are 18.1 or 18.2 grains, at least the ones I've checked (2 tins of different lots so far). Then I sorted an entire tin. I shot one more 199 with a tin of 18.1 and 18.2 grain pellets but no 200, yet. Today I tried shooting a target with nothing but 18.3s. It is attached. I shot a 194 with 6Xs if I remember right, it is on the target. Half 10s would be a 190 so that is better and I shot a 195 yesterday with my 18.1/18.2 partial tin yesterday. But what seals the deal for me is the last 10 shots.

I shoot left to right, then down, then right to left, etc.. I am minimizing turning the screw on my rear rest which controls windage. So I shot 1&2, then 4, then 3, then 5, then 6, then 8. At that point I was significantly low as you can see and I checked the reg (I shoot left handed so I have to pick the gun up to see it) and I was below the 100 bar reg setting. So I refilled and shot 7, 9, 10, 12, and 11. All 10 targets in this last sequence are 10s (some barely, I use a scoring plug). I was struggling a little with elevation before 8 so 5 and 6 might have been affected by the pressure in the tank too. But for sure with a full tank 18.3s shot as well as I shoot anything. 10 10s in a row is about as well as I can do. 18.3s are OK.

I already decided 18 and 18.4 shoot well so there seems to be no reason to sort. I also shot 3 199s with unsorted pellets. Just another evidence it doesn't hurt my scores to just shoot them straight from the tin.

There was a thread about this before.
Most of that on Ali is fake or bogus ads.

GX Shut down a number of them a few months back. "If" you even got a compressor from them and it needs work, GX would never honor that compressor or support any warranty on it.

Nighthawk320 said:

Any feedback yet? Thinking of picking one up.
thanks

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If you search the past posts you will see it was a Mess. I got a Bad one, and I was chastised for Mentioning it. About 8 Pages worth If I remember right. It came, was leaking, so I sent it back. Good luck on your choices.

A bit more stability than you need is better than a bit less. Apart from diameter, weight and length of the slug, the nose and base shapes need to be considered. So, the diameter, weight and length are not enough info to calculate bullet stability, strictly speaking. The relative position between the center of gravity and center of dynamic air pressure is what matters, and these are also affected by shape. And by, if there is a hollow point or not. And the diameter, depth and shape of such a cavity. Ditto, for hollow base projectiles.

If you were talking about waisted pellets, they are already aerodynamically stable and need very little spin. Spin for pellets is mainly to null out the effect of imperfections in shape and the placement of the CG relative to the primary axis. More spin helps pellet stability as it emerges from the muzzle, and is kicked by the air blast from behind. Air blast is something that can be mitigated for pellets via an effective air stripper. Overspinning pellets tends to make them spiral at longer ranges; which seems like a contradiction regarding stability.

Barrel twist requirements for a bullet peaks at a muzzle velocity right at the speed of sound. You are well above a stability factor of 1.5 at 900 FPS, so if your bullets shoot well out of your Texan, I would not worry about anything. Shooting PCPs at 1150+ FPS is silly for many reasons, that include excess air consumption and noise. So, simply don't go over 1050 FPS and you should be fine. If you want more power, shoot heavier slugs. Ones that still go fast enough to give you a flat enough trajectory for your range and mission.

KWK said:

This looks way better than goofy clip on mounts. Bases are a hacksaw and file job. Cut to length and simply filed a radius on the bottom to match the receiver. I made the front base work with the barrel screw. The rear mount is epoxied on and what does that hurt? It comes off easily with solvent. I think those chinsy rings came with the Bushnell Sportview scope. It’s been on there over 30 years.
Guns should look cool, right?
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And that is the cleanest install of optics on a 160 that I have ever seen.
Well done sir!