@Joselito,

What is the length for your 1:16 liner? If it is longer than the 1:18 liner, then a difference in velocity and noise at the same settings (regulator pressure and hammer spring preload) is to be expected.

In theory, the only difference between liners is the rifling twist rate. The 1/16 spins the projectile faster that the 1:18 at the same muzzle velocity.

Individual barrels may have different friction, so the velocity could vary due to friction differences.

In theory, a faster twist rate may slow the projectile down in muzzle velocity, because there is more energy in the projectile spin. For slow rifling such as 1:16 there is very little energy in the spin, so I would go more with friction differences; especially at the muzzle choke.

This assumes that all the sealing O-rings in the barrel system are in the correct place, and undamaged. Else, simply changing the liner may have caused an air leak, which would reduce performance. It may also release more noise from the breech of the airgun.

Trucker3573 said:

Like in the other thread….if the macro wheel isn’t causing velocity drop the micro is set too high. Where is the micro moving (between which numbers) when you turn the macro wheel??

I personally never bleed fx plenum with dry fire. I just turn the reg adjust screw a little ccw and it will bleed itself.

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Thank you for the tips

I've always been pretty happy with Hawke scope, especially the Airmax. But lately I've been using Vector Veyron scopes. I have a 3-12X and a 10X both compact and am duly impressed with them. I routinely use them out to 100 yards and my only complaint is I wish I'd sprung for the illuminated versions, but everything else is super. Bright, clear and track perfectly.
Also, the SWFA Super Sniper scopes are fantastic. The 10X and 12X are very clear and track fantastic. They're truly hard to beat. I'm learning I almost never change the power on variables, so I'm liking the straight power scopes.

muradtexas said:

Wondering if anyone makes a barrel for Leshiy Classic that can accept the QD mod for quick attachment.

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OOPS THIS ONE https://eaglevisioncam.com/shop/mod...gun-leshiy-1-2-unf-off-set-moderator-adaptor/

yes i know but he has become about the only place to go now for custom parts and he now has an You Tube channel
his way of paying through Pay Pal works for me
things is the good old days of building Crosman pistol has long gone
185 years ago you had many small makers and custom parts makers but they are all gone

Buying, selling, trading is only allowed in the Classified forum. The author has met the minimum criteria to post there.

I use the one that is included with the scope

TMH said:

I will generally agree with you regarding AoA - pretty much my go-to shop as well.

But they can't/don't stock every brand & model, so sometimes one needs to go elsewhere.

Sometimes a brand might only be available in the U.S. from an outfit like Edgun West. And since I ain't shopping there, my best bet for purchase is a Euro store.

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yep, not a great feeling to be limited to one supplier stateside.

I agree with @Scotay42, who in the 2nd post of this thread alluded to the importance of the dealer in the QC of the gun
When I bought my Crown MkII I comparison shopped obsessively
But threw all that out the window & bought from a dealer that had great feedback and recommendations in the Forum
We talked about my "wants " in the gun, and when it arrived it was not only defect free but tuned exactly as we had discussed.
Bought late last winter it has been shot every day without any issues.
And that (for the Never FX-ers) includes no POI shifts
I don't see anyone else mentioning names, so I will not do so
If it's permitted, let me know and I fess-up
Or just send me a PM


Just my too scents
Edward

I need to replace the A-17 Oring on my Dynamic and its a tuff one anyone who's done this I would sure appreciate any advise....

I would say up the pellet weights to 25 grain. Maybe the light pellets does not react to the changes in the settings that well.

Looking into modding my Umarex Surge Max Elite (.22) to make the trigger lighter than the 4.75 pound pull. I've already slightly rounded the trigger adjustment screw and this seems to have reduced or smoothed out the first stage pull. So...before I tackle this, I'm wondering if the trigger is similar to other Umarex break barrel models out there. If so, I can find an online trigger mod vid to go by.

170 is the Max !!!

I get around 60 shots from a 250 BAR fill.

I have found that as well that with slugs the barrel doesn't dirty as quickly.

Okay, I figured it out. The valve seat was in there so tight that I thought I was doing something wrong. I had to really tighten things down so the lip expanded enough. And having to both push the tool into the gun while both pulling and turning the knob is awkward, but it does work... eventually.

For those curious, here's some pictures to give a better idea of how it works. There are little grooves on the bottom of the screw head that bite into the delrin when you pull and turn the knob on the other end:

Kragman1 said:

I have heard many disappointing stories about Hatsan USA's customer service, but I have a perfectly good one to share.

I recently ordered some pellets during one of their sales, and recieved all but one tin. Of course, that was the most important one to me

I emailed them, explained what had happened, got a simple apology in recognition and the pellets were shipped out, no questions asked.

I know it's a small thing, but they get an A+ from me for that one.

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Pellet/Seal kits ordering I've had no problems -- support for my AT44PA-Long -- that's quite a different story...

Trucker3573 said:

It’s one of 3 Orings. One down in threaded hole. The one in the very bottom of the reg or the one on the bottom of the piston. The one in the threaded hole and the one in the bottom of the reg are an utter PIA to deal with.

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ok thanks. I am going to replace the o ring inside the thread hole where the reg sit first. If that doesn't work, I will replace the other 2 you mentioned. Sure I can just replace all 3 but trying to do one at a time and see what is actually causing it to leak.

JW. said:

I think 3d prints in general are over priced. That said I can't fault anyone for asking what they want for something they made.

I've been 3d printing things since I got into fpv drones in 2014. I've been using printed scope wheels for field target competition for about the same length of time. I didn't sell anything for a long time (until 2024), I needed to feel completely confident that the part would not fail before I could sell it to anyone. The primary change was driven by the introduction of ASA filament, this material is excellent for outdoor applications. ASA isn't easy, I find that I throw out 1/3 to 1/4 of the prints, usually from it lifting off the plate. If i'm selling it the print has to be spot on, no lifts even if you can't tell.

Slow print speeds, thin layers and 100% fill, lifetime warranty/replacement, low prices and often customizations are free. I'm not in it to make money, if I can cover the cost of the printer and materials I consider that a success.

But be VERY careful with these tools, buying a 3d printer may lead to buying a cnc router table, which may lead to buying a 5 axis cnc machine...

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Snap an ASA chunk in half and examine where it broke.

@wildcj5 Interesting. I didntt know they can climb trees.

Great collection of guns… I remember saving for a long time as a kid to buy one of these… I wonder if it’s still at the parent’s house somewhere.

Gerry52 said:

I thought you meant "B'wana, me see lion tracks by river" kind of gun bearer

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Ok Sir Gerry Thiggpin IV

Thanks Matt!

I worked with engineers my whole career and am used to discussions like this. I don't claim to understand the math but I'm good your explanations if only at a general understanding level. Appreciate the time you took to post this!

Guess that the takeaway for the typical airgunner is that simple PCPs are anything but simple and to think before you take a dremel to the plumbing that an engineer carefully designed.

Cheers!

Retired, oh yeah - or as my brother stated; you aint retired, you are retarded!
By the way, since I retired two years ago as a civil servant, I have worked 80% as a carpenter.

Uglyjohn said:

You gonna use the Ares at HFT Bill?

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I am planning on it. Right now I'm just getting use to my relatively new Sightron S6 5-35 x 56 SFP. Already I like the Locking windage turret that the Sightron didn't offer. It (Athlon Ares ETR SFP) comes with a 5" steel wheel that attaches without burggering up the factory turret. It does parallax down to 10 yards and I haven't set up my wheel yet but I did notice a small difference between 50 and 55 yards in the parallax at 15 power the lowest magnification. It does not have a 16x mark on the power ring which I wished it did. I did receive the scope as promised on 8/22 .... two days after I ordered it at Amazon and it didn't cost a nickle to get here.
The BLR1 reticle is rather thin but adjusting the ocular lens brings it out pretty decent. The one thing I liked about it and I found this true in the Heras Model that the factory turret nob has range marks 10-20-30-50 and these marks line up with the real distance to the targets. Very few scopes I have ever owed I can say that about. I still have a lot of playing with it before it will go on my HFT rifle but right now I think it has potential and $400 less that my Sightron S6 5-35-56 or $900 less that the big S6 with factory wheel is a heck of a savings. Athlon offers a great warranty also but of the 6 Athlons I own I have had no need to return them for any reason. Stay tuned I still have a lot of time left before I make a final decision. Both this Sightron and Athlon only offer the lighted target dot in their IR set up.

Additional Info ........ This afternoon I took a 5 1/2" Black and White Gamo Bullseye target. The Target has 1/8" ring numbers on it in black and white. The numbers run vertically and Horizontally on the target starting with black on white and with value numbers 1 to 5 on a white back drop and 6 to 8 on black backdrop to the 9 ring which is 1" in diameter and white. The 10 ring is a white 1/2" circle. At 50 yards with both scopes I could just make out all the numbers. At 55 yards some of the numbers became a little blurry. At Forty yards both were easy to read forward and backward. A couple weeks ago I mentioned the new S6 had the best glass I have ever looked through. I am beginning to believe the ETR is just as good to this point. I don't pretend to be a scope expert but I am telling you what my eyes are telling me and the glass on both scopes at 15X and 16X respectively is pretty darn close.
New day more Info! 8/25/24 I spent 5 hours working on my scope wheel distance marks. I started at 10 yards and worked my way up to 40 yards. All went good until that point. After 20 yards my range marks are 2.5 yards apart until 55 yards. When I drew the 40 yard mark and went to 42.5 I could not distinguish 40 from 42.5, My 45 yards came in ok but again 47.5 looked the same distance. Ditto for 50 yards the at 52.5 yards I could not distinguish it different than 50 yards. The 55 yard mark looked good. This is pretty much the same story as I had with my new Sightron S6. I do believe a shooter that can consistently make a good shot can work these disadvantages to his favor. Example: Shoot a 40 yard shot a little high with the right setup and that 42.5 will fall to. Same all the way to 50 yards. Not what I was hoping for but doable with a good shot and a little luck.
My next question is what effect will the heat have on them. I already know that the S6 will rangefind that 55 yarder 5 yards further on my wheel when the scope tube exceed 80 - 83 degrees. I haven't noticed much change on the lower end distance but my rifle is also a little more forgiving on those shots. Would Love to know what you other guys think of them and if you get similar results. My scope budget is pretty much diminished until 2027 if I can make it that far. Personally, I think the ETR has a few more options and better bang for the price.