Interesting question. Since moisture corrosion will be the most likely thing to make an aluminum cylinder fail; if you keep the water out of your air Id expect many years. Probably better measured in decades. Thinking about how many pcp are still in service that were built in the 80s and 90s I wouldnt really worry about it too much.

The other thing to think about is the potential energy with a thin walled aluminum cylinder is far less than a CF tank. So even if it does fail, the DRS is probably one of the safer pcp designs.

I had a Diana 34- .177 I bought at a pawn shop back in the early 80s I think 82. Had a scope on it but can't remember which one. That gun was a tack driver. loaned it to a "friend" and he left town with it lol. Ive had a couple of each Diana and HW since. Currently I'm down to one. HW95N .20
I love it so far.

rangur1 said:

I doubt I'm even close to that. This gun is got a heavy hammer spring, reg at 150 with a plenum capable of 70-73 foot pounds for slugs. But I loosen the hammer spring for low power pesting around the property. Those big adjustments must be affecting performance, just figured the effect would be even from 250-150 bar.

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Yes, lowering the hammer spring tension that much will make many regulated guns follow a power curve like that. The opposite is also true in that too much hammer spring tension will have a regulated gun's power go down linearly as the fill pressure decreases.

Many people with Taipans use the hammer spring knob as a quick power adjuster but I just don't believe it's the intended purpose for that. It really is a tuner knob that should be set and left alone. From my experience, that adjuster is VERY sensitive and it is very difficult to return it exactly to where it was once moved. This is why I never touch mine once I have the gun tuned properly.

Arkangel1200 said:

The metal tipped slugs I was referring to are these https://www.alcobullets.com/shop/pr...irgun-pellets-swaged-metal-tip-and-flat-nose/

As I described them was a poor way of describing. We have wild hog that are quite dangerous so it's a matter of hunting predator species.

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Lee Molds has 2 cavity aluminum molds in .458 they are under$40.00 with handles. Buy pure lead from a junk yard its roofing lead in sheets or rolls usually $1.00 a pound

Thanks. Got an email from him this morning.

After you found this issue, did you test again to verify things?

We have all been there, so don't worry. Typically it is a stupid thing we overlook that causes the most problems.

The V2 have a build in battery, so it can also go on a charger and also while shooting if you are able to deal with the wire.
In the V1 i have to remove the 3 AAA batteries and put them in a charger, but i do have 4 sets of batteries.

drsquall said:

Good morning,
I am looking for an affordable thermal handheld scanner for using around the barn and chicken coop when I am pesting at night. I use a Pard nightstalker on rifle but want a thermal scanner to scan around the place I'm hunting. Now I don't need a 640 I could probably get away with a 256. Just trying to save battery on pard and don't want to keep it on at all times. I currently use red/green lights but want something better. I don't need to be able to really need to go past 100yds because most of my pesting is at 50yds or less. This is for coons and rats, skunks. Trying not go over 500-600 cost

Thanks
Jon

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I use the AGM Taipan TM10-256 and it works great for detection. I also like this model as it provides a wide field of view. If I see a heat signature, I can investigate with my higher resolution thermal scope.

It's forecasted to be a nice day in Palmyra, PA on Sunday.

Gen 1 and Gen 2 .357 Terminators on American Airgun Classifieds.

Several other big bores too.

Couple auctions for Bulldog .357 on Gunbroker.com getting close to end with no bids. Both under $700 opening bid.

very good for the money

I think hunting people is illegal in all 50 states?

cthao said:

As the title stated, I am fairly new to the world of owning a PCP. Been scrolling through the forums for a little bit when I first got my Umarex Notos late last year. I can fully say that I am addicted as I recently purchased another PCP the Dynamic Compact in .22 cal. This is also my first big purchase and so I have decided to join the forum officially and I hope I can learn as much as possible from everyone on here.

I was fascinated by PCP many years ago when a family member use to own an Airforce airgun. He would let me shoot that thing whenever I felt like and it has never left my mind to this day how amazing it was. I just wanted to make my first post introducing myself on here.

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Hey! I'm also pretty new here! Cool to see such an active and live internet forum.

Update: Surprisingly, I obtained enough information to not shop online twith his shop. However, I would shop at the store if I were in proximity to the brick and mortar shop and physically able to go in and handle the merchandise. Considering the way the info came from multiple sources and no one is saying much of anything publicly, neither will I. This primarily because I have no personal experience with this shop to speak of.

Hunter25 said:

Go to rmr and buy the 1000 count of 22 caliber seconds. The nutronstar shoots the hybrids well. It's not really powerful enough to shoot 30 grains at the speeds they need. The 22 grain will work well and they kill well. Also very accurate.

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You tagged the wrong guy lol

Well I am late to the party and you have the Slayer all back together, so this stuff will have to wait until the next maintenance cycle...

On the valve, I polish the bore where the piston rides with a Dremel and 3/8" cotton polishing mop until it shines like a brass mirror. I also polish the rear valve stem to a mirror finish. On the valve piston and stem o-rings I use urethane ptfe o-rings to prevent stiction and first shot lower fps symptoms that come with stiction of other o-ring material over time. On the stem o-ring you can use Krytox GLP205 ptfe grease lube or Ultimox 226. I don't lube the valve piston o-ring any more because I found it makes a green corrosion ring in the valve body, which may be why there's stiction over time. (I'm still experimenting with eliminating stiction there).

When assembling the valve into the receiver the three o-rings are tricky to get past the transfer port without cutting them. A curved piece of plastic tube, the same diameter of the transfer port and radius as the valve body will help slide them in easily. Alternatively, a blunt plastic pick can be used to work the o-ring in past the edges of the port.

To re-gas the cylinder and get the valve to seal I do bump the back end on a rubber pad and pour the air to it while tightly covering the transfer port with my thumb. The valve finally seats somewhere about 1500 psi, and if it doesn't seat I just keep adding more air and pressure. I learned that after many trial and error, and unneeded disassembly.

The new Slayers are in the works and should be here shortly.

All I can find is a complete cylinder assembly. It should arrive in a few days.

update it shoots GREAT!!! came from factory,buzzy and vibration. got worse. took apart and found one of the baffles were in backwards. they have male/female ends and are suppossed to be stacked together. i now have no buzzy ness and vibration. ive read many people have this. if you take apart and put in correctley it will be almost all gone. now solid and even more accuarte then before. thank you motor head and one and all j

I most certainly will!!!

Ezana4CE said:

@jgg765 Why not read the regulations on the site of Florida’s wildlife agency and the laws for the county or city you wish to look into visiting? Or at least find out some contact information and make a few phone calls.

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Good point will do thank you for the feedback

Haha I can see this going wrong real fast if I joint the effort. Half asleep trying to ID the correct owl to shoot in the dark through a day and night scope.

You all just about covered everything but hammer weigh.

I'd reduce hammer weight before I'd cut the hammer spring.

Skout-airguns said:

I've already had several emails asking about the durability and rain. Below is a video of the same electronics that are in our current paintball guns. Start at the 3min 35 second mark.

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The gun is unaffected by the rain. I shot my .30 Epoch for over 3 hours in cold rain at the Oregon EFT GP in early May. It functioned perfectly.

I essentially copied your set up today, though I used quick disconnects. I have to say I prefer the front sling mount location on the vertical Picatinny just above the valve adjuster, shown in the second photo, rather than at the front of my saber tactical rail under the bottle. With the rifle on my back muzzle down, it seems to lay flatter against me and great for freeing up my hands.

I think a lot of people shooting heavy slugs eliminate the first reg. Also seem to shoot them above 960fps. My M3 is .22 and I have shot the 27gr H&Ns @ 960-970 as accurate as pellets At 65 yards. I dont really need to shoot slugs was just trying them out. Now im back to pellets (18gr). Better efficiency and cheaper to shoot in my yard.