Fill port is to tight. its compressing the gasket and closeing off hole.

@ Matt.
Btw. FWIW manufacturers actually ARE going to 2mm stems now. Just look at Snowpeaks new T-Rex series.
Uhu. On 2mm out of the hole alright.
Actually that carbine is something i´m working on right now and have to go on record and state that for a budget proposition piece of kit.. color me impressed. WAY higher grade build vs Snowpeaks old PR-900/Stormrider.
Not even on the same map.



One thing that got binned though was the stock moderator and shroud setup. FOR a waste of space... Rest of it is rather traditional to the build, just on way higher tolerance vs previous and in turn better materials used as well.
This particular one then the 25cal jobbie. Right now getting a somewhat larger plenum (that speaking of traditional of course resides within the tube)

What happened to the old site where they made custom stocks on pellet guns. Ive been away for a long time but surley someone still does it. They would modify 2240s to shoot big bore ammo.

I use SAE J844 Nylon brake line for mine, as it is much stiffer than the refrigerator stuff. I make them a bit longer than needed so they can compress a bit, cutting them at as close to a true 90 degrees as I can get. Then I chuck them up and spin them lightly sanding the burrs off and a bit of a taper to concentrate the pressure at the inside for a better seal. Works great.

Nice shooting breaux! I like to make sure to catch up on the honey do's before my outings as well as I prefer to not sleep on the couch.

dens228 said:

I've been playing around with my Krait Standard just for fun. I've generally shot pellets at around 900 fps give or take.
My Krait reg is jammed and came that way so it's pretty much un-adjustable while I await a replacement reg.
Trying to get optimum tuning is difficult to match my expectations since I'm limited to just adjusting the hammer spring and pellet weights.
With 15 gr pellets it's way too fast until I get the hammer so low it's inconsistent.
18 are a bit closer but still flying.
So today I remembered I had some 26 grain JSB's and gave them a go. At 35 yards they are nice and tight and FPS is very consistent. They are also shooting at around 805 fps.

I know that shorter barrels need more pressure to get to speed, but I'm now wondering if shorter barrels may perform better in general at a slower speed to allow the pellet to be more stabilized? IE a longer barrel at more pressure allows more spin/stabilizing of the pellet before it leaves the barrel? Therefore a lower speed keeps the pellet in the barrel a bit longer without needing to stabilize as much forward velocity?

I could be way off or over complicating this as I'm no expert on ballistics.

I was just surprised at how well these performed at over 100 fps slower speed while actually increasing fpe.........

Click to expand...

I have re read your post and got off on a tangent. Upon re reading the thread I'd take stubbers up on their offer. Based on what the krait is doing, his idea may be the key.

Midway USA. I got 2 pistols, 2 tins JSB pellets, pack of targets for $99.95 to qualify for free shipping.

-JP

weevil said:

I tried these out today in the Leshiy Classic with reg at 140bar using a 350mm barrel (from Airgun Heaven). 760fps. Very accurate. I’ll bet it can be cranked up to 800fps at 150bar.

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Nice!

Wining and shooting (…well…) at 43 meters. After adjusting the scope, I put a mag (5 shot) on the middle large bird. Could have given the scope som extra clicks, but the grouping was what I wanted this time. The pistol grip is excellent for my hand, and perfect when it comes to rest shooting.

I have a air ventUri nomad 3 that took a poop after two years. Tried to contact them, but got the runaround when requesting for a rebuild kit regarding the piston and sleeve. I would rather buy a cheap rebuildable compressor than to spend money again with them.

Scotty1 said:

I put my new Belita on my Crown mk2, shooting JTS 18’s around 950 fps, and then shot these 2 cherry picked View attachment 495779groups of 6 @ 53 yards

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Impressive

Nice mercury dime

viti said:

alguno sabe como atenuar el ruido que hace el martillo al golpear la valvula

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@viti Lee este https://www.airgunnation.com/threads/edgun-r5m-ping.684312/#post-684354

En esta cadena, hay algunas sugerencias buenas de otros socios en la tema. Creo que necesita un depinger.

Well, looks like I have to pay shipping! And it’s a HEAVY bullpup… I’ll call Cameron there and ask if they could send me a return label…

That's a good way to do it.

Any mil spec AR15 grips

@Moke That is some funny shizzle. Like the artwork.

4 hours up and 4 hours back. Long day. Tammy says hi. FYI the guy with the watch is Joe Brown as mentioned in that scums video. He’s been hired as Marketing head for only the last year. But apparently people that don’t know him know more than me. . Really nice guy for sure and did more with marketing recently then Velocity did.

can anybody lead me to the information I need. Website, YT, open to everthing

What are my options to be able to remove this screw if the head seems to have been rounded?
I'm fine with it being right handed i would like to be able to still change it in the future.

Edit: not sure why the picture won't upload but I was talking about the 2 carrier screw that holds the cocking lever in place. After doing more research and more videos on YouTube, it turns out it could have been a torx screw... Wow instructions unclear. I'll just leave it right handed, one day when I disassemble this thing I'll worry about it then.


Anyways I'll edit this again today. 9/11/24
Turns out those carrier screw the one on top through the picatinny rails and the one in the rear holding the back of the cocking lever are indeed torx head. T7 torx to be exact. I'm lucky it wasn't actually stripped but there needs to be an update in the manual or those 2 YouTube videos showing how to do the swap. The one circled was locktite in. Just info for anyone left handed new to the dynamic block.



I finally got it swapped to the left side, feels so much better.

Bedrock Bob said:

What length barrel did that big gulp of science come from?

I suppose barrel length is dependant on the ability to bring a projectile up to speed. That's dependant on your reservoir and the ability for it to release pressure behind the projectile as it travels down the barrel.

If your gas can keep pressure rising in the barrel it's not to long. If your speed is at the limit before the projectile exits the muzzle it's not too short. Depending on the gun that could be anywhere from a few inches to many feet.

The length barrel that is best is the one suited to the power source. If the delivery of power is fast and short you just don't need a longer barrel to get speed out of a light projectile like a pellet.

At least that's what my big gulp of science told me.

Click to expand...

I found Bedrock Bob in the wild..

Chris is signing 1x..

DesertSilver said:

Make sure the plenum gage isn't over tightened. If it gets over tighten it won't let the pressure get to the gauge.

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Yeah.
This.

ShootingTargets7 said:

Happy Labor Day Weekend Everyone!!!

Rimfire / Airgun Know Your Limits Targets (Automatic Discount In Cart)

Plinking targets (Superlocks 70% off) As low as $1.49!!

More Aigun Targets

View attachment 492827

Click to expand...

Just placed an order - looks great

Accu Tac had a great sale at Christmas time. $400 bipods were selling in the high $200's. I am not sure if we will see that deal again but if you are patient, it may pay off.

Me being frugal and non-competitive I just couldn't justify a $400 bipod when I only paid $1000 for the rifle. lol
I went with a $75 tripod; I am happy with it. I also use it for my Labradar, so you can use them for more than 1 task.

We often get caught up in “good glass” talks, but even good glass can not agree with your eyes. I don’t put a lot of stock in ED or HD specifications, because they can mean a lot of different things. That being said, when you take something like a Sightron SV and compare it to the SVED, you can see the difference. You might could take a $800 scope that says HD and compare it to another $800 without HD and not see the difference.

I have tried the range of glass and I would not purchase some expensive ones again (diminishing returns Steve spoke of), but would easily purchase others. There is a reason that even scope snobs don’t always agree, as some prefer different things. I loved my Kahles 10-50, but sold it to another guy who didn’t like it at all. I would have said it was my favorite scope, and I have had more expensive scopes. Take for example, NightForce Comp, which historically known for being “bright” or more blue, so some people loved that. I personally preferred the dimmer look of the Kahles, because that is the optical formula that my eyes prefer.

I always tell people not to write off any scope until you have looked through it. Your eyes might like it more than others. We aren’t all looking for the same thing either, like resolution vs contrast, but I’ll leave that to the scientific guys to get into.

Point is, the good glass we speak of means different things even in the top tiers, not just across tiers.