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Umarex  Shot the Gauntlet .177 (a true airgun value) & what clip might be made to fit it?

EPG, stock Overly heavy spring, full u.s. power and ton's of hammer bounce (always meant to fix that) but...). Being the same as a QB if cocking hard I would pull the bolt & roll it on glass. Fixed several QB's with a 2-1/2lb hammer w/popcicle stick under each end 1 smack to the high spot. Might be worth a look?
Great shooting, think I would enjoy such a target at that range so guess I'll need to print a bunch at the Library.


Springerrr, poi shift just isnt right. We have none ever and it rides in the back seat of the truck, on the floor being vacuumed & maybe gently stepped on, No pampering & no shift ever. As the barrel does not cover the receiver screw (like on a QB) 1st I'd just try HARD o-rings on the barrel and if needed skip o-rings and fill the grooves with epoxy just like the older daystate huntsman.

Everyone who mentioned the Carm mag thanks! And Steve your recommendation made me go look again. I had been to their page but only under umarex (a couple of odd parts period) but sure enough under clips they say something like Marauder/Gantlet/something. Which makes me think a marauder clip might work but I would rather but just one good one than several others.


Thanks,

John

(edit meant to add trigger mod just in case) Personally cant stand the trigger blade on a spring "two stage" -swapped the one on our old 2278 out-. The trigger mod worth doing for many is the spring plunger mod. Well worth a few dollars and as close to a two-stage you can make a gauntlet/QB .

Hunting Squirrel in Arizona

Any coyote

There are coyotes everywhere. I'm sure there is no shortage around Blue.

I'm not sure there is an acre of ground between Texas and the Pacific ocean you can't call in a few coyotes. This area is a bit higher altitude than I'd go for coyotes but they are there. So are Grey wolves. And thousands upon thousands of elk.

Again, on the Arizona side it's checkered with reservation. Know where you are. That's sacred ground and the forest roads cross through NF and Rez land. Take a land ownership map, a GPS and know exactly where you are before you jump out with a rifle. A bit of land research will pay off big time. There is lots of ground to hunt. Also lots of opportunities for trouble.

Please help me pick a complete compressor setup

I'm still new myself in the pcp world roughly 2 months in.
did some research for a few months talked to some people on different forums.
i wanted something accurate to 50 yds that had room for expansion and wasn't a problem child with leaks or to technical.
i bought a Umarex Notos shoots very well and will give some higher end a run for their money without breaking the bank.

i also had to buy a compressor and looked at twin cylinder single cyl etc etc
bought a Yong Heng did some improvements on cooling and added water filter with beads
its a little noisy reminds me of an air brush compressor.
also bought on ali express took 4 days free shipping 229.00
funny thing is amazon delivered it
its been a real reliable compressor biggest thing with all compressors is heat

i then decided to get a pistol and bought a Huben GK1
long story short i also bought a gx cs4 as this gun is 350 bar and don't want to push the Yong Heng to 5000psi

so again, ali express gx cs4 399.00 vs 500+on amazon and free shipping took 4 days and amazon delivered.
simple water cooled self-contained and quiet it came with a 12v 120 power supply
or can be portable 12v off the car with eng running

thought about buying a used scuba tank
ended up buying a 1.6L hatsan tac set up 219.00 i get 10 fills on my notos with 2 plenum extensions 75cc?

so far I've used both compressors to fill my guns and tank prob dozen and a half time to 4500 psi and both have been very reliable.
i wanted to get my feet wet to see if i liked the hobby before jumping down the rabbit hole
also support parts was another factor so far all has been good.
you will find most people on this site very helpful.. good luck
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Snowpeak  Snowpeak T-Rex carbine. A more in depth check.

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Think of it what you will, i´ll bet this was thought to be the successor for the Stormrider (which by all means still are in market)
Two flavors, the carbine (as we´ll check out) and the bullpup. For better for worse i got to take a more in depth look at their differences and the carbine n bullpup is as far apart as anything will get i´d say.
The bullpup basically being a dressed up PR-900 while the carbine is a totally new design completely on its own.
So no wonder what got to follow me home huh?

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For lack of better wording i´d say the build is very "traditional". Traditional in as much, nothing we really haven´t seen before but that being said there IS a marked difference this time out as this is no doubt what so ever a budget offering.
Cause see.. things actually FIT vs each other and not only that it seems to actually be designed to be picked apart AND put back together again. At that materials used are no longer the cheapest reused Coke cans from the streets of the far east. Sharp tools has been used to make the various parts and with one big ABOMINATION for turn down the rifle is actually slightly amazing seeing what it after all is.
But.
This is about as budget oriented as they come why of course there´s been corners cut. Of course.

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For instance. For some reason hammer spring force isn´t adjustable stock. There´s just this plastic plug that sports a sorts of spring guide and is run through by a retention pin that fix it to the main lower block. So one of the first things done.. a 6086 plug that i threaded for an allen stoppie, that in turn works a washer that centers on that screw within.
This pic though, see how the various parts fit vs each other while plz taking into account what we´re talking here.

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Might be it´s a "mere" bolt action but truth be told the angle and how that thing fits.. makes for a world of difference. And it really does. That said, again.. look at how the various parts interact and keep in mind we´re talking absolute budget gun here.
As can be seen though, tube bolts to a valve and valve assy/tube is bolted to the lower main block - which also carries the hammer et al.
Then the upper block with the probe and so forth and of course they´re mated together so an old fashioned transfer port seals them vs each other.
Old, as thought, might be. It still works tho.

However. Corners. It struck me that no matter if 177 or 22 or 25 they all share the same internal dimensions for ports, hammer, springs, transfers and so on. What this brings is that no matter if you opt to modify for an adjustable hammer spring it´ll still stonewall somewhere around 35J/25fpe or so. In other words sans porting and what not do NOT expect this thing to ever become a fire breather of any sorts!
Yes. It is regulated and yes said regulator rides just upstreams of the valve assy. Handing a plenum volume that reminds very much of the old Snowpeak M-16 as well as P-15/35. Around 16cc´s or so it´s all in.
No wonder power is limited.

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We´ve come to expect accuracy from pcp´s right. As such bone crushing hard trigger jobs.. are just plain out. Trigger is a two stage jobbie, that´s adjustable within reason, but with a first stage that´s just insanely stiff to my liking.
However. The springs inherent are very simple to swap as they all ride sandwiched between the trigger assy and the main block. Iow CAUTION as you let go of the two allen cap screws that keep the trigger assy on there.
Ditto, i will down the line reshape the trigger somewhat. See no need for that there in the picture.

...and again. Look at how the various parts fit and interact. This on an absolute budget tier gun. Impressive in my book.

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Then for the, in my opinion, abomination.
WHY WHY OH WHY does Snowpeak insist on trying to convert the pcp world? First up, already at 20J that there in the pic is nothing short of useless. What Andy at AAR on YT came to dub "the Toblerone".
Might be. It carries a shroud right? Well, for a shroud to be of use it helps if the through hole on the diffusor makes for directing air down the shroud, IF there even IS a diffusor. Which there isn´t.
Then from that "void" on that thing there´s 4 minescule little holes designed in that´s supposed to make this happen?
Look. You ram the two pins out that retains the end cap. Then get a stiff pair of pliers and yank that there insert out. That done the outer housing is held in place with a sorts of castell nut and of COURSE this isn´t on a 1/2"-20UNF thread but on a regular metric M12. As the barrel outer is on 12mm flat.
I´m all good this is a budget tier gun but what would it have cost to just delete that there junk and add a 1/2"-20 thread out front?

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So what i did was turn the snout of the barrel down some to take a press fit bung - to hold a decent diffusor (by me). Well...

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Threaded the front portion 1/2"-20 to gain linearity of the unit as it was all on there. This no doubt worked, just shoving the stock diffusor tube forwards handing that it needed a fresh rear plug.

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Yeah. Scratched it while at it but.. whatever. That rear plug now carried an o-ring vs the tube and in turn an o-ring in a pocket so cut vs the actual barrel. The whole "free floating" (within reason).
So.

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At this state ported to 5,7mm - which it will take no issues. In other words the idea here is NOT for a fire breather but more so a setup that´s repeatable ad nauseam and rugged at that.
On 5.7mm ports and elevated reg pressure i was now seeing 34s out the snout to the tune of approx 75J. Rather SILENT at that, no thanx to Snowpeak.

But. That downright downfall there with the "moderator" and shroud assy... it still doesn´t detract from the build per se as i regard it. It is STILL very good value for money. Port it even (hope any and all at least knows how to swing a 5.7mm drill bit) and get at least decent numbers out of it, for a budget tier gun, and just accept that it´ll be noisy and you´re good as i regard it.
Any further on this piece though will take more in depth modifications.

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Primary hinderance/stop as far as porting is that the one o-ring rides real offset on the barrel vs the port. A fresh such groove though... On porting in turn, remember to ALWAYS deburr the now increased diameter holes! Your o-rings will thank you if nothing else.

Anyways.
75J. Ok. What then?
16cc´s worth of plenum sure won´t do it why i´m current at it fabbing a larger plenum for it out of steel. Threads for the valve assy and regulator are regular metric M20 btw. Iow nothing major there.

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I wanted to push the envelope a little for this budget piece however why i came to replace the rather short stock barrel with one on 550mm. In turn a larger diameter shroud and at that one of my own design 50mm/2" jobbies out front. A 4 chamber one in this case.

As such it of course turned WAY more silent in operation and.. a tad of self critisism might be in place here as i over time have gotten real anal about pcp´s n noise floor. Creating, forming and shaping sound is my day job so.. (yes, i´m an engineer)

But where we´re at i´d honestly like for one of them "Mickey Mouse" gauges we see on all pcp´s, just this one for reg pressure. Btw, yes. The stock regulator hands a tad of creep alright but will suffice for what´s at hand here at least me thinks and yes the thing is as adjustable as they come. Said Mickey Mouse gauge i´ll of course reference vs my glycerine filled one on my major compressor.

So.
Is the T-Rex carbine worth your hard earned cash?
Let me put it this way. If you´re content with the say 35J stocker then yes. Absolutely. If you in turn are a tinkerer and want to have a go at it, again a resounding yes (in contrast to most other budget tier pcp´s). This as the T-Rex seems to be designed to be picked apart and put together more than once, and from what i´ve seen will handle it flying colors.

Is the T-Rex carbine a contender for a fire breather? In that case, no. At that rate there´s other guns way better suited to bring you there... But as a sturdy build for pest control or what have you, sure.

Testing compressor and tank gauges

What is the specification on the transducer type gauges? IE: same as Bourdon tube type gauges? The electronic gauge I use for the car is quite accurate, it agrees with the TPMS to the Lb. That said I have a Bourdon tube type that is equally accurate. What is the percentage of full scale accuracy?

Crosman  Crosman 362 Multi-Pump Pellet Rifle Barrel and Air tube outside diameters?

this picture looks like you plan to slide this part over the barrel ? isn't the barrel soldered to the air tube full length ? it is on my Sheridan . And the front sight is affixed to the barrel also .Maybe i am wrong ?
It is going on a Crosman 362, new production.
Front sight is removable and barrel is not soldered to compression tube.

Airgun Technologies  Vulcan 3 back to basics…

I never really tracked it closely. I also usually don’t fill right to 300 bar or shoot all the way down to the reg pressure so it’s hard to say. I am very surprised though by the amount of shooting I’m able to do. It’s been very ample for sure. There is a lot of air in the gun with the 480 bottle and the lower power plenum set up. More than enough for a day of hunting.
I believe i've heard you say that you only shoot pellets. If for whatever reason you decided to give slugs a try, get some hybrids. They have been working very, very well in my V3 .30 500mm!

3D printed ammo /shotshells /sabots

I would not recommend you to use these in break barrel airguns. I've tested this principle years ago and I didn't (well I totally forgot to...) measure the overall diameter of the projectile. I designed and 3D printed a couple of .177 caliber "tubes" with PLA filament and then capped them with toilet paper on both sides and of course, prior to capping them, I've loaded them with lead shot that was roughly 2.5mm in diameter. The shell packed 13 lead 2.5mm balls and when I've gone to chamber the shell into my Magtech AR600 (.177 cal of course), it seated fine, but then when I pulled the trigger the rifle recoiled violently and the gun gave a really dampened report...

It turned out that the shell jammed itself in the barrel, it didn't go further down the bore, any more than an inch. When I latched open the barrel, a loud pop was heard and "smoke" came out of the bore.

So, if you're planning to use these, make sure you'll drive one or two down the bore with a ram rod to see whether they jam or not and whether the plastic gets deposited in the grooves of the bore, as there is almost certainly going to be some melted, or even better said "smeared" plastic deposited in there after shooting.

Use with care and observe barrel fouling. Have a good one.

N/A  Dual bottle block


This one is for the FX but it does have the front 2 as male and the rear is a separate piece so I guess you could magiver it to your need.
Same setup as the hatsan one, but it has an M18x1.5 on the back to thread on to my drop block adapter.

I'm thinking of making a dual 350cc bottle setup under the Ronin on the 357 maruader. Then make a semi bullpup stock for it similar to a brocock bantam.

I have a smaller diameter 380cc bottle and 5/8-18 adapter coming to try for now and it should clear under the ronin.

That gun needs more available air to get a stable/usable tune for a day trip hunting. I can tether and home.

AIr compressor question

Thanks again for the tip on low input pressure, works great but 15 PSI was too great a starting load, backed it down to under 10 and it's all good. I put the original intake filter on another female air line QD fitting, that way it gets filtered air if using away from my shop air. I am direct filling the little reservoir on the Beeman 2028, takes less than one minute. I need an SCBA tank soon. But my next purchase will be the Hatsan Blitz in .22. I made a little extra money lately, the toy fund balance can soon support the purchase. I shall report back from full auto happy land. A couple of the extended magazines will arrive with it.

FX  What type of seal do Dreamline Classics use on cylinder air gauge?

I think I figured out the problem.

IMG_3298.pngIMG_3299.png

In the process of hunting down a leak, I tried swapping out the end cap on the air tube. As you can see, the first one has a pronounced ridge on the inside that the other lacks. With a 3.63 x 2.62mm x-ring, the gauge sits a little proud, in turn causing the dust cover to not seat correctly. The one without the ridge fits the x-ring just fine.

So, not only did FX switch from plastic washers to x-rings, they also changed the end cap design. Of course, there's also the possibility the the ridge is actually a spacer of some kind, but I can't get it out if that's what it is.
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The limiting factor

This actually sounds somewhat feasible, only instead of heating the transfer port, why not heat the reservoir or the plenum?

The speed of sound goes up about 1 fps per degree Fahrenheit, so it probably wouldn't be worth it.

+300 Fahrenheit later you get a potential 300 fps boost!

Issue is your pressure would increase, so you would have to backwards calculate to have a starting pressure that would yield the ideal shot pressure once heated up 300F higher...

Then, you have to worry about o-rings, poppets, and what not melting.

-Matt

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