I've shot a couple more fairly long strings with this tune. The first tune started at 200 bar. It was 12 shots sighting in my 32X scope for shooting targets and then 24 shots on a 30 yard challenge target. I ended at 100 bar. If I ignore the last 4 shots I think the ES was 22 fps. The final two shots were Xs, however, with a velocity of 756 and 751. I scored the target at 189 with 10Xs. The best I've done with this gun is a 194.

Today I shot 40 shots starting at 220 bar and ending at 110 bar. The first 24 were on a 30 yard challenge target and the final 16 were sighting in the 4-14 scope I put back on the gun and messing around a little. The ES was 26 without the final two shots (765 and 759fps). The Average velocity of the same 38 shots was 785 fps. The first 25 shots (the ones I think were on the reg) averaged 788 fps. 13 of the final 15 averaged 779 fps. Fpe ran from 45 to 48 fpe. Todays target was a 190 with 10Xs.

The ES is a little higher than I would like but it doesn't change by incorporating the final few shots. It might have been made worse by my chronograph shifting a little while I'm shooting. There is enough of a muzzle blast it twists the chronograph sometimes. I changed the way it is mounted before shooting the last 16 shots and the ES dropped to 10. So maybe part of the 20s ES is measurement. I am not seeing point of impact changes.

This .357 Rex pistol was a real hand cannon.
Power ranged from ~100fpe down to about 70fpe over 3 to 4 shots, depending on pellet weight.

The main drawback was the slow single-shot loading. The mechanism itself cycled very smoothly, though, and it was easy to load the large .357 pellets.

The small, unregulated air tube was only good for about 4 shots. But it kept the Rex sort of 'pistol sized' for single hand use.

It was impressively sturdy and very loud due to the short barrel.

Now, if they could just add a pellet magazine and have the cocking handle cycle the action to load a pellet, and then add a regulator, and .. and ...

That eternal hunt for upgrades by some of us is why many manufacturers feel pressured to keep offering upgrades and then rush new products to market every year. Some people, often me, are ready to jump on the newest version of a product in their hobby/passion of interest at the time. Partly just to check out the promised advancements, some want to share their results and impressions, and maybe there's a small bit of bragging rights involved. Airgun tech is finally developing quickly as we get inexpensive 5000 psi portable compressors and electronic fire-by-wire controls. But 100 years from now, I expect that a Rex pistol like this will still be working. Not as sure about the longevity of some of the more complex models coming out now.

JP

Spartan said:

It's the distance from your knees to the trigger, divided by half the distance of your nose to the end of the muzzle, minus 1/3rd the length of pull of your stock, unless you're using a scope, then it's 1/4 the length of pull. And then you take that and add the distance to the face of the target from your shoulders, subtracting half the distance between your knees and your toes while sitting at 90 degrees.

Those are the rules agreed upon by OPEC, NAFTA, and UNESCO. But I'm not sure how they do it in the UK.

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So then does "Mass of the Azz" become part of the equation as well?

Well, I've sold a handful of these on ebay. I guess most of them worked all right since I didn't get any complaints initially. The most recent guy I sold to has said he was having issues with the teeth shearing off... so here's the first solid aluminum version.

Nice report Chris ... Yea the crew ( Which includes you ) are a pretty well oiled machine and follow along as well self do much of the chores of running and shooting a SVFTC match.

Thank you to all present this match

If you were here in Canukistan, I’d take both of them on without hesitation. I’m a French descendant and if you didn’t know . We are by far the most stubborn group to ever walk this earth. lol . I hope you get them sorted out.

I know of a few issues with them. Barrel port alignment, small hole that cycles the action needs to be lined up. Next is the barrel o ring, this seals the probe when ready to fire. Last are trigger pack screws , if out of adjustment , the sear won’t catch . All three are somewhat simple to check. Break out a magnifying glass and have a Quick Look.

SSG's are very simple to fabricate. Below is a picture of what I use in my Marauders. These are all 'carriers' that I can swap out by removing a rear 5/8-18 plug that I had custom made and had knurled by a cool member here. Each one holds a different tune so I don't have to mess with different preloads. These are crudely made but polished where it matters/where sliding motions occur.

The smoothed threaded end of the bolt sits in a small hex plug that sits within the aforementioned 5/8-18 plug, the small hex plug allows adjustment of the free flight distance and keeps the ssg in line with the hammer at all times, and the front of the bolt sits within the hammer, with enough length on both sides that it won't slip out during hammer travel, and remains smooth in operation.

I don't see why this design cannot be adopted by any gun that currently doesn't have an SSG or adjustable freeflight, one would just need a drill, bits, a tap, a rotary tool / method to round/smooth a few sections, and patience. There are many other ways to skin the cat, not saying mine is best, however I use what I currently do because its the best solution I personally came up with.

Couple of nylon washers/bushings, a bolt, and a nut, cost no more than 2$ at a hardware store per unit. I prefer finer threads which allow more precise adjustments, so I use 1/4-28 bolts, however this specific size isn't necessary, but what is, is not having the bolt be fully threaded, you want one that is shouldered so the spring or front bushing/washer doesn't get caught up during cocking or during your shot cycle.

Depending on the gun, you may need a different size of the below combination, from length to width, but most any gun should be able to accommodate such design.



-Matt

mr2lor said:

Amazon Fire tablet has access to a limited selection of apps, so if you can't find a specific app in the Amazon Appstore, you may need to sideload it manually.

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I have the permission allowed to use a 3rd party app or whatever its called, but when I go to download the app the tablet will not come up as a recognized device..I can usually figure this crap out but Ive run out of patience messing with it, will get a small laptop later and use it. Ive read even if you do get the app to download that Amazon has so many obstructions to prevent it that it can cause device to freeze or quit working completely.

If hand pumps were the only way, I don't think we would have a PCP hobby at all. I kinda choke on paying for something I can easily do myself. The material is free, it does cost something to compress. The inexpensive HPA compressors are what finally got me in to the hobby.

They have nearly the same potential but I cut the power a tad in the 97. They're still not too far apart. The 97 is about 14.2-14.5 fpe IIRC and the 95 around 14.7-14.9 fpe. They both vary a little day to day due to environmental conditions and tin to tin. That's with JSB made 8.44 pellets. They both lose at least a pound of energy with FTTs or more with heavy pellets.

The 97 is easier to shoot accurately because it's a tank. The 95 is just as accurate but needs more concentration for the same results. I still prefer the 95 over the 97. It's plenty accurate horsing around, lighter and much easier to cock and load. The 97 has been up for sale time to time the 95 will never be. Here's the 97.

I think I didn’t tighten it down enough even though I did hand tight / snug.

The first pic what looks like metal is actually frost. Initially I thought it was a hole but when it came to room temp it disappeared so obviously frost build up from leak. O ring definitely blew out.

Poke-E said:

I appreciate the info. Would you happen to have a link to the product?

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Lol, 10-4!!! That is actually really really good information to know!

Goodluck on your purchase

Has anyone swapped the air cylinder on the zeus to a carbon fiber bottle? If so, did you measure the weight savings you got from swapping to a bottle?

Wicked cool setup!

CBKidd said:

Interesting? Maybe... I'm still wondering what's up with AN member "Line354" hijacking my original post/photos with no explanation or anything else? HHmmnnn--- I GOT it: Maybe he just liked my post/photos so much, he decided to just "re-post" it?. I feel MUCH better now!

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I'm wondering where the poster is addressing your question??? Its a shame but the reality of today is to be leery of people. This has been the case since the beginning of time, but the percentage of people that fall into that category has exponentially increased as the years goes by.

JungleShooter said:

Don't you get me started!!
I need to draw the $-line somewhere!!

Matthias

PS: Yeah, but I've looked at them several times already...., just give it time as I fall deeper into the hole. We have now September 12, and before you know it we have March.

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Just wondering since you listed Nightforce in the specs table.
I know most March scopes start around $2500 and up but on the used market, they can go for a lot less. Some members here have deep pockets lol. Keep up the good work. That's a lot of research and effort put in to make that list.

So my DRS has a leak. I'm hoping one of you can help me troubleshoot my problem. I got the rifle and didn't shoot it right away. It held air for a couple months. I loosened the screw on the plenum to bleed the air and retightened it, then unscrewed the end cap and installed a carbon liner. After that, I filled it and put a mag through it to sight it in. I refilled it and noticed it was down about 80 bar a couple days later.

I filled it again and put a balloon on the end of the barrel. That's where the leak is. I assumed I damaged one of the two o rings in/on the end cap. I replaced them tonight even though I didn't see any obvious damage. I put some air in it and it's down about 40 bar a few hours later. It seems to leak down to about 140-150 bar and stop. I'm sure someone smarter than me has some idea or suggestion. So what do you all think?

Joedirt199 said:

TS-70 Moly Paste With 70% MoS₂

ApplicationTS-70 is a general purpose moly paste with many uses. It has proven to be an outstanding lubricant for a saltwater environment, above and below the surface:

www.tsmoly.com

I found this TS-70 high moly paste. Would this be good for spring and piston lube? Have been reading that higher moly count is better.

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I suspect that would work just fine.

Maccari also sells moly here: https://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/catalog/item/251484/42989.htm

A little goes a long way. The jar of moly I bought from Maccari a decade ago is still about 2/3 full.

R

I would recommend a pre-owned Daystate brand rifle, like a Huntsman. Daystate is one of the best quality manufacturers out there and their products last. Check out the classifieds here on AN. I bought two Daystate's on here. Air Arms and BSA are two other British branded rifles I own and highly recommend.

I believe he is saying even a kite string will effect the POI..

My two! Could possibly be that people never even noticed the odd stamping. I know of at least one or 2 people who had JNC FWB 124's and had no clue until I told them then they noticed it!

Both excellent shots and very nice video!

Wadcutter said:

Thanks for the reply:
The reason for asking is that according to https://www.beemans.net/beeman_predecessors.htm
Robert Beeman claimed to have "exclusive distribution contracts with most of the overseas airgun makers", and that Beemans "made a special deal with Bob Law to sell him whatever he wanted, at our landed volume costs (lower than what his prices for small direct orders would have been), for as long as he wished to continue to deal with customers."

This made me wonder if Bob Law was actually forced to buy airguns from BPA and that ARH was therefore selling Beeman-stamped FWB 124 series by 1979.

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No Beeman stamps whatever. However, it was not stamped by ARH or any other dealer. It now has a recent tune with a custom spring guide and a more powerful spring. And, it is smooth, better than new.