Mike, please provide some details on your finished product, may a pic of the entire hammer and debouncer lying together or some sort of assembly sketch?

beerthief said:

when you get one ,one of the tricks is to not shoot your gun to minimum ,( about 20 pellets or so ) and pump slowly , push down and hold keeping the pressure on you will feel the pressure drop as the air enters the gun , This avoids most of the heat build up which in turn produces moisture .
YES a pain in the arse

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Yep, pause at both the bottom of the stroke and the top to let the air flow. Then you need to let it cool down after 50 strokes or less depending on the air temperature.

I think I held one once. I was looking at buying a gun store and my partner had one. I was so excited to handle it I didn't even let it sink in. I should have bought it as the guy was probably trying to free up the green to start out our partnership. That was Raytown, Missouri and decades ago. Be Well Brothers, Bandito.

Silence is best in most cases

Aldebaran said:

I got the same problem. I cant fill gun due to air leaking also. I checked all seals and still not working...$1300 PAPER WEIGHT!

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Has to be either a seal, or a cracked part. Did you selectively paint the GK1 with bubble solution to pinpoint a leak?

I had issues with resetting the striker, but seemed to fix that. Took me a couple of times to get it right. When the striker has not been reset, you cannot put the gun on safe. You really have to push the striker hard to reset it. At least it seems for me, I needed to fire a round to complete the process. A dry fire kind of undoes your work. Once set, then you can dry fire.

Airing up the GK1. It could be your probe o-rings are torn, cracked or have dirt on them. Or maybe even the connection to the foster fitting has problems.

Have you ever had your GK1 apart? If so, there might be a piece of crud on an o-ring, or a tiny crack in it. If you can isolate what you worked on, or where ever there were soap bubbles, it might help.

SteveV said:

Nice post my man! I with the Pathfinder was available with a lefty breech, maybe one day.....

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That's what stopped me from getting one as well. I also want a drs but again not lefty. I'm not spending $1000 or more on a rifle that can't be made left handed.

I’ve had mine about 7 mos. It’s useful for sure. App works great too.

It is a Gamo model 126 MC super match.

JG has some parts

If the recoil buffer is shot, there is a guy on ebay selling rebuilds

Or you can search the web for tutorials on a work around.
Some of the parts for that rifle are non existent.

First step would be to see if the gun even likes the 36. Accuracy trumps all the other factors. shocked a certain someone has not checked in here. . I probably should not have…just saying.

Oh yes, congratulations. That is a great gun. B.

doninva said:

OK, found the hammer spring size on the parts list:
9mm od × 1.1wire diameter x 60mm long
.345 od × .043 wire diameter x 2.36 inches long

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I imagine the adjuster leaves more pre-load available than what it takes that spring too at max? If so you could simply just shim it / use a spacer to add more preload.

You need to know the active coils to determine the spring rating. Also if the spring uses a guide or fits in the hammer, you want to make sure the OD/ID of the spring are within nominal dimensions for fitment.


-Matt

So in case anyone runs into this problem down the road here's what I did and what worked for me. So because it only happened with the cover on I thought something might be rubbing, trouble was nothing showed on the cover. I sprayed the cover with a light coat of athletes foot powder and put it back on to see if I could find any interference...nothing
Decided to take a chance and buffed down this bronze bushing with a diamond sharpening stone and it works. It didn't show that it was rubbing but apparently it was just enough to keep it from latching. See the picture, bushing is circled. Rob

sonnysan said:

If this gun has a LW barrel like most Daystates do, I wonder why you are still shooting pellets out of it. Try .218 or .217 23gr, 25gr, or 28gr. H&N slugs at that power range. Slugs work better in the wind too.

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Depends what his barrel's twist rate is.
I own a Redwolf and it has a 1:30 twist. That isn't enough to get a slug spinning fast enough. But, it will send pellets down range with laser accuracy.

Eye dominance is the first priority in my opinion. You can learn holding differently, I’ve never known someone to change eye dominance.

When I went to a firearms instructor course day 1 just after safety briefing was eye dominance.

Keep both eyes open. Put a thumb up and cover something near by with your thumb. Close one eye. Your dominant eye will cover what you put it over, they other eye will not. That’s the quick and dirty method.

I just got the STO moderator (Sarrissa high flow,I got the name confused with the falx in the previous post) and Donny FL adapter installed . Came super quick. I am highly impressed to say the least. I sent 50 34g @950fps fly at my target 120yds I do not see a noticeable change in poi but I shot very little without the STO. The epoch 25“ is now very quiet, it’s not Tiapan moderated quiet but I think its a tad more quiet than my 25 RTI prophet with a sumo. It’s been awhile since I shot, and no inquiring calls from the neighbor about strange ”pops”..

Scanning the executable just now shows no threat, so strange...maybe they did fix it, over night, because last night it was flagged as PUA and quarantined. I can usually bypass PUA and run software no problem, but MD definitely was triggered last night to quarantine the EXE.

Maybe it being quarantined forced them to review it, which perhaps they did and added the exception? That or...somehow initial install creates flags where the second install doesn't? I could only explain that if something tinkers with windows registry upon first install that later allows the second install to work flawlessly.



-Matt

Maybe you could tell. By Death to Squirrels is my motto these days. Those little terrorists have done so much damage. I have NO sunflowers for seed now. I don't care that my walnuts are gone. That tree is leaving soon. It isn't great wood as it is only about 55 to 60 years old. But it is walnut with some possible crotch grain and such. Their den trees and an oak are going too. Might get a piece of wood big enough and sound for a Revere. Keep up the good work. Did I mention although the little terrorists don't have good taste they TASTE GOOD! Be Well Dr. K, Bandito.

I'm not the first one to do it, it was another forum member that came up with it and he has made some amazing builds.

Plot twist: Maybe the liner was perfectly fine before you started ramming things through it and polishing it.

You said you had some inconsistent groups with slugs when you first got that one. Yeah... slugs do that. It's kind of their thing. Consider investing lots of time and effort in trying different slugs and different tunes before taking tools to the barrel.

Good luck with any warranty claim after polishing the liner. FX should rightfully tell a customer to pack sand in that situation.

Not trying to sound rude, but this reminds of a guy here a year or two ago who basically ruined a perfectly good Red Wolf by immediately taking tools to it right out of the box because of "tips" here learned here and elsewhere, instead of just shooting the dang gun.

We are our own worst enemy sometimes. Fix it 'til it's broke.

Bigragu said:

My 30 cal epoch set up on the bench is right at 26.5 lbs. if I count the tripod it’s attached to it’s at 35lbs

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Now that’s what I call a beast Augie! Which can be a good thang on the bench.

weevil said:

What is the poppet material?

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Black POM......and it´s just pressed in....POM can not glued, that would not be liable

Don_Fabb said:

@tradecraft6f did you ever install that 3100 psi Ninja reg? if so, how's it going and what slug are you using?

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Huben Power Cricket Max-ATH
Adjustable
50CC Plenum
Rock solid, doesn't drift
Have to add a g1/2 to M18 adapter

No preventative maintenance but I have I have stocked up on o-rings and spare parts for the k1.

Lubing the o-ring that seals the opening valve might be a good idea since the valve is constantly moving through it.

willy said:

On the ex vale just blow compressor air into it and it come;s apart.

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Are you blowing air into the chamber where the co2 cartridge normally sits, after loosening the screws that hold the valve body? I never thought of that … I like it!
And for those who do not have a compressor, could they fill the co2 chamber with water and then screw the cap back on, using the hydraulic pressure to push the valve out? Just a thought.

Thanks for being a good companion. Talon P has moved to a new home