Oh yeah they are harder for sure.

I have the HW97kt in .22. It shoots about 670fps and has enough horsepower to go through a can of ranch style beans at 60 yards. Enough accuracy to hit a shotgun shell at that range every shot.

No problem shooting squirrels out to 60-70 yards with that gun. I do it often. Your not going to get headshots at 70 yards but 50 is no problem at all. The HW97 is one of the most accurate spring guns made.

Hit them in the shoulder at 50 yards on out and you will stop 80% in their tracks. They aren't going far if they go anywhere at all.

It's heavy to hunt with. It's best rested rather than shot offhand. I much prefer the HW95 for hunting. But the 97 will certainly get it done.

I chronographed my gas ram Cometa 400 .22 at 745 fps yesterday. It keeps them under an inch at 50 yards and hits like a sledgehammer. I think it will make a better hunting rifle than either of the HW rifles mentioned. Its lighter and hits harder. It's right up there with the D350 on power and shoots as smooth as my Vortek tuned D34. Accuracy is comparable too. It's just not quite as pretty.

@Jarnold Thank you for your input!
Well I consulted 2 shops and 2 shooting ranges near me. Another issue that Jarnold mentioned came up, where can I shoot an airgun....I managed to find 2 shooting ranges near me that allow aiguns with a distance of 10 meters, and I live in an apartment so cannot use my backyard(which is legal here) lol.

Furthermore the shops said that I will have issues with the delivery since I'm not a certified weapons dealer.

Bottom line, I've decided to go with a .22lr until I have my own backyard

Easier and cheaper to buy locally.
No legal issues, although a bit more requirements, like registration(the shop does this for you) and a gun safe with separate compartments for the weapon and the ammo, which I would get anyways.
More parts and ammo options available.
Longer shooting ranges available for .22lr, more sports clubs and competitions, that are suprisingly cheaper to participate than for airguns lol

If anyone cares, it's a CZ 457 MTR 16"
...will be picking it up on Saturday, but I plan on upgrading it with an MDT Oryx chasis, UTG 360 bipod, 419 30moa picatinny rail and I'm still thinking about a scope....

I am considering Arken SH4J Gen 2 6-24x50 or Element Optics Helix 6-24x50, these are decent "budget" options and can be found localy for around 500eur which is ridiculous compared to US prices.

If you guys know of a better scope alternative in this price range + - 100eur, suggestions are more than welcome.

Not in a hurry since Black Friday deals might come up.

ray1377 said:

How about some details on the best place to get bullet molds? I'm looking for something hollow point with a weight between 250gr and 350gr.
I've done a little net surfing but haven't found much in those weights. Seems like everything is 350gr and heavier.
Is there a good place to buy lead that's decent for bullet making at a reasonable price?

Thx
Ray

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Rotometals is fine. Price is tolerable, but not amazing. Molds from lee, arsenal molds, mp molds, accurate molds, noe molds. MP is the best bang for buck imo.

Thermal imaging devices have revolutionized outdoor observation, from wildlife tracking to security surveillance. Their ability to detect heat signatures regardless of lighting conditions makes them invaluable. However, not all environments are alike, necessitating the use of tailored scene modes. In this post, we'll explore the key scene modes—City, Rain, and Forest—that optimize thermal imaging for diverse outdoor settings, enhancing your observation experience.

1. Why do We Need 3 Scene Modes?
We need three scene modes (City, Rain, and Forest) because different environments pose unique challenges for thermal imaging devices. Each mode is specifically designed to optimize the device's performance in distinct environments characterized by varying temperature contrasts. By providing select-able scene modes, the device can adapt to different scenarios, ensuring clearer, more detailed, and more accurate images, ultimately enhancing the outdoor observation experience.

2. What Are the 3 Scene Modes?

City Mode
Effectively capture significant temperature differences between the surroundings and the
target, and present them seamlessly.
Features: Low image noise, natural and seamless transitions, smooth imaging.

Rain Mode
Highlight the temperature contrasts to show details through algorithm adjustments when the temperature differences between prey and its environment are minimal.
Features: High sharpness, with the most distinct temperature contrasts and the richest details in the same environment.

Forest Mode:
The effect is between City and Rain modes, enhancing imaging contrast between
different temperature zones.
Features: Moderate sharpness with relatively prominent details.

3. How to Choose the 3 Scene Modes?

City Mode
Suitable for scenarios with substantial temperature contrasts between prey and the environment, such as farms and ranches, wide plains and grasslands, and urban edges.
Rain Mode
Suitable for scenarios with minor thermal differences between prey and the environment, such as rain-forests, wetlands, marshlands and dense woodlands.
Forest Mode:
Suitable for scenarios with moderate temperature differences between prey and the environment, such as shrub-lands, national forests, hills, and mountainous regions.

The above content is mainly for PARD thermal monocular binocular and thermal scope, and the above content is also applicable to some dual-optical fusion products.

I would say a washer made from the same material as the tube you are trying to extend for lack of better word, aluminum? once again this is just my opinion. I don't know if there is a dowty seal/washer that might work.

Comparing the two Monstrum ring sets side by side, the Monstrom Pro Series rings are a far better product than the light duty Razor Claw line. Given what we are mounting them on, and the scope's as well, the extra few grains in weight and the few dollars more are worth it.

BABz58 said:

All great ideas guys. Thanks.

Guess I should have thought a little harder before posting such a lame question.

Yup I’m a newb

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NOT a lame question ! i fished all my life and never thought of casting weights

i just want to put a cf bottle on this thing , i dont have a valve , i thought i was going to take the valve out of the aluminum bottle thats stock on the gun and install it on the cf bottle , , can i just unscrew this bottle off and screw the new cf bottle on ? did they glue a fitting into the bottle that makes this job a mess ?? i dont care if the bottle has a valve if it will just swap out ,

Unless you're into competition shooting. A simple bubble level is cheap and works just as good if not better. You don't need to worry about battery although they could last a long time. But to each their own, those level are good too.

But did you wash your hands?

NVM I see you started with "washing your hands." Just wasn't sure if you were distracted by the ghost pellet.

gentlemen how many grip screws in the new HW75 question about grips on the AGF

That is an awesome tricked out WC! Nice pics! Enjoy shooting it!

The state championship match report is now posted on the new club website;

Hunter25 said:

I have a question about the semi auto hubens. Moving parts wear over time. Slack in a action shouldn't affect the accuracy. Probes centered when engaged. How long do they last? Reason I ask,I have a hatson barrage. Got it new for 300$. 1000 shots in it started to not feed. Got worst the more I shot it and now seems it will not work at all with out me working the lever. Will those rifles go 20000 rounds?

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drsquall said:

I don't know you might have to ask long-term users. I know any Air Rifle regardless of the action in 20,000 rounds you're gonna have to do some maintenance of some sort

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I shot my GK1 around 6k shots in the short period of time I had it and it did not skip a beat, or have any issues. 6k isn't 20k but still. And I mention the Gk1 because I did not shoot the K1 as much as I was solely using 254 NSA slugs

Yee Hah, that's what all that copper is about, heat transfer. Now listen to a story bout a man named Jed.... Grannies corn sqeezins factory.

Sometimes the 25mm sekhmet gauge will refuse to come on for me. By just plugging the charger in and touching the connections mine always snaps out of it. As you have heard, discharging the sidewinder without a mag isn't a problem except for your ears. I've done it a few times and although it's surprising..it's not a problem.

I purchased the AAO upgrade for my Texan .457. when I receive it I will install myself. I am looking for some one in the South West who can tune it for me. Anyone have someone in mind?

Could be closet gremlin's

When installing a vortex PC 4 tuningt kit in a R10 can you use the old cocking shoe or do you have to get the new style shoe? Thanks JimmyV

I now have two of my Beeman 2027 and 2028 decked out with all Buck Rail accessories! Added the suppressor too both and tested the .22 out first. First shot I missed the target and only heard a faint click. Well darn I figured I had messed up somehow, then the next shoot I only heard the pellet hitting the metal target. I was almost disappointed that it was so darn quiet. Getting use to it and beginning to like it. I live in the country and gun fire is common. If you want a quality product give Buck Rail a try! Charles

FWIW
The ballistic apps Chair Gun Pro and Mero both have pellet data bases built into them.

It has been 10 days after the end of the month, and the actual target shooting challenge bragging rights was taken by @DuckaneerPirate!!

Congratulations to all who participated!! Now, let's see what you have for November. We already have some good entries for the paper target, but what can you shoot that is Thanksgiving themed??

JaceSpace1369 said:

Have you tried adjusting the brightness? I had that issue with the 4k max until I adjusted the brightness and contract and it literally made a night and day difference. I uave the 4k and non 4k and I thought something was wrong with the 4k due to it not working well in bright daylight but that fixed my issue. I looked into the axillary battery but they didnt have any in stock.

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Thanks, I'll try that.

That screw was put there specifically to mess with people trying to figure it out ! that is the only possible explanation .