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HW/Weihrauch Reminder to check those springs, gents.
- By bustachip
- Traditional Airguns
- 44 Replies
I did the same but after I shot the factory gun out of the box for a while. I still have my factory 77K spring even though I sold the rifle, it was getting over 900fps with a 7.9 premier with a o-ring piston seal and custom guides.That's exactly what I would do except the tune kit would probably be at the house before the gun actually arrived. With the exception of my first Weihrauch I don't think any of the others have had more than 20 shots through them before the factory springs were replaced
Point is you shouldn't have to do anything to a new rifle but shoot it for 50K pellets or whatever. A young boy isn't going to do any tuning, he just wants to shoot and hunt with the rifle.
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Sekmet M8x1 25mm gauge for my DRS
- By ram2jeep
- General Discussion
- 5 Replies
Mine arrived yesterday and definitely pleased with it.
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FX Impact M4 In Stock, DRS Pro, And Altaros Slugs
- Industry News
- 7 Replies
I just want to say how pleased I am with my M4 and the outstanding service that Tony has provided. I put a PARD thermal on the rifle along with the upgrades of the Sabre Tactical Arca rail and bag rider. I chose the DonnyFL moderator that I had on hand for the extra volume which translates to a quieter air rifle.
Here are some groups that I shot with thermal scope attached at 25 yards. The targets were small square pieces of metal tape which gives off a different heat signature when the sun is shining. The words, "air gun" and "wind" should not be used together in the same sentence. So I could have got better groups without the little gusts to contend with.
I have to confess that I had an operator-induced malfunction with the rifle. It was totally my fault and I contacted Tony who went all out to repair the gun and get it back to me within a few days. He's a miracle worker.
When I got it back I decided to install a night vision scope to put the thermal scope on something else. This group was shot at 50 yards and the winds were a little stronger and a little more variable than the groups above. With that in mind, I am still extremely impressed with the rifle.
Here are some groups that I shot with thermal scope attached at 25 yards. The targets were small square pieces of metal tape which gives off a different heat signature when the sun is shining. The words, "air gun" and "wind" should not be used together in the same sentence. So I could have got better groups without the little gusts to contend with.
I have to confess that I had an operator-induced malfunction with the rifle. It was totally my fault and I contacted Tony who went all out to repair the gun and get it back to me within a few days. He's a miracle worker.
When I got it back I decided to install a night vision scope to put the thermal scope on something else. This group was shot at 50 yards and the winds were a little stronger and a little more variable than the groups above. With that in mind, I am still extremely impressed with the rifle.
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Hatsan One Week with the Hatsan Velox .22
- Air Pistols
- 90 Replies
Did anyone come up with a dual tank adapter yet? I think we need it since Terry at Buck Rail did his magic now. 
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GX CS4 Overheating issue
- Tanks, Pumps, Compressors
- 82 Replies
I'm a retired mechanical engineer and have learned my lessons by burning out several HPA hand pumps and electric compressors over the years, primarily due to inefficient cooling of the components. Burn out a hand pump? I hooked mine up to a foot lever so I could just step up and then ride it down with the full weight of my body. Burned out 2 hand pumps that way before I finally bought an Axor compressor back in the 90s(?). I needed to wrap flexible tubing around the piston assembly on that one and run cold water through it or else it would seize from overheating.
30 years later we have small compressors like the GX CS4 and GX CS4-I which can actually fill 6L bottles without burning out, assuming that they can run cool enough. The easiest way to cool a CS3 or 4 series compressor with the removable red case is to start by simply removing the case. Then put a high-power (like 900cfm) directional fan on one side, positioned to blow air through the compressor and across the motor and piston assemblies. This keeps the exposed metal parts in the compressor cool and the water in the tank only mildly warm to the touch. There is simply no practical way to extract that much heat from the compressor without removing the case which holds in most of the heat.
The obvious drawback to this approach is that the 2 carry handles on the CX4 compressors are attached to the top of the case. It's a hassle to move the compressor with the case off and a (relatively minor) irritation to need to screw the case back on for transport. What I did was to cut away the bottom portion of both sides of the case, just below the central screw holes which hold the metal case to the front/rear frame. As you can kind of see from the attached picture, that exposes the entire motor assembly and the base of the piston assembly. The rectangular output vent on the fan (a 700cfm Masterforce 1/6hp Air Mover) is sized correctly to focus airflow through the compressor. I liked the fan so much for general around the house that I got a 2nd one and now use 2 of them to make a vortex of air around the inside of the compressor. I could have cut away one or both entire sides of the case, just leaving the top with handles screwed into the frame, but preferred the partial cuts in the case which fit the output vent on the fans.
I don't recommend that anyone else damage their compressor by cutting the case like this. Retired hobbbiests often cut up things for fun, or as they will usually claim, in search of 'improvements'. The main point of this is that you can increase the life of a compressor by reducing heat buildup. The water pump in the CS4 series removes much of the heat. But to dampen it down considerably more you would need to expose the metal internals of the compressor by removing some or all of the metal cover/case, and then blowing high-velocity air across the inside of the compressor to take away the extra heat.
I recently replaced that gold water condenser tower with a 2nd filter cylinder. And added a couple of one-way valves with drain vents which can keep both of the desiccant cylinders pressurized when the compressor and hoses are depressurized to switch bottles or guns. That's a different topic though. I ruined my CX3 by letting it overheat and overwork itself, and I don't plan to let this CS4 die the same way.
JP
30 years later we have small compressors like the GX CS4 and GX CS4-I which can actually fill 6L bottles without burning out, assuming that they can run cool enough. The easiest way to cool a CS3 or 4 series compressor with the removable red case is to start by simply removing the case. Then put a high-power (like 900cfm) directional fan on one side, positioned to blow air through the compressor and across the motor and piston assemblies. This keeps the exposed metal parts in the compressor cool and the water in the tank only mildly warm to the touch. There is simply no practical way to extract that much heat from the compressor without removing the case which holds in most of the heat.
The obvious drawback to this approach is that the 2 carry handles on the CX4 compressors are attached to the top of the case. It's a hassle to move the compressor with the case off and a (relatively minor) irritation to need to screw the case back on for transport. What I did was to cut away the bottom portion of both sides of the case, just below the central screw holes which hold the metal case to the front/rear frame. As you can kind of see from the attached picture, that exposes the entire motor assembly and the base of the piston assembly. The rectangular output vent on the fan (a 700cfm Masterforce 1/6hp Air Mover) is sized correctly to focus airflow through the compressor. I liked the fan so much for general around the house that I got a 2nd one and now use 2 of them to make a vortex of air around the inside of the compressor. I could have cut away one or both entire sides of the case, just leaving the top with handles screwed into the frame, but preferred the partial cuts in the case which fit the output vent on the fans.
I don't recommend that anyone else damage their compressor by cutting the case like this. Retired hobbbiests often cut up things for fun, or as they will usually claim, in search of 'improvements'. The main point of this is that you can increase the life of a compressor by reducing heat buildup. The water pump in the CS4 series removes much of the heat. But to dampen it down considerably more you would need to expose the metal internals of the compressor by removing some or all of the metal cover/case, and then blowing high-velocity air across the inside of the compressor to take away the extra heat.
I recently replaced that gold water condenser tower with a 2nd filter cylinder. And added a couple of one-way valves with drain vents which can keep both of the desiccant cylinders pressurized when the compressor and hoses are depressurized to switch bottles or guns. That's a different topic though. I ruined my CX3 by letting it overheat and overwork itself, and I don't plan to let this CS4 die the same way.
JP
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