That's kind of what I was asking.
This is my bet, grab any assortment of out of the box new Marauder rifles and see what the tune settings are and you will likely find no specific settings. The .25 is tuned from the factory for 16 shots at around 40 to 44 fpe from 3000 to 2000 psi. The reason is that there is likely variation in the spring rates from batch to batch and who ever set the rifle up and did the test shots.
Here are the "alleged" factory settings, YRMV:
For posterity, for those who have a new M-Rod, before adjusting anything shoot the rifle over a darn chronograph please. Guessing does not work. If you do not have a chronograph leave the rifle alone until you do. Then run the hammer tension full in and the same with the striker and transfer screws carefully counting the turns. Now you will know the factory settings for
your rifle. Gen 1, Gen 2, no matter, they are mechanically the same for practical purposes of tuning.
Let me interpret the data above for y'all for the .25 caliber rifle. Hammer Tension 5 turns in from minimum, Hammer Stroke 4 turns in from fully seated, Transfer Screw 4 turns in from fully out of path. And BTW, the one M-Rod .25 I purchased (NIB) was not set as above and I have no idea where the card is I recorded the data on as it is no matter to me now. The reason it matters not, well, I have Hammer gap, not Hammer tension, I have my Hammer Striker recessed or face flush to Hammer to facilitate free flight gap with a usefully long spring, Transfer Screw, bah, humbug! I ain't got no stinking Transfer Screw to adjust, what is the point of going up to .161 or larger porting if going to choke it with the TP screw?
There have been a number of threads regarding M-Rod "factory" settings. If they are important to you, why did you not record the settings before undoing what was done by the factory? I guess I am confused because if the initial settings were not good enough such that you decided to mess with them, why go back to what you were not satisfied with?