After a lifetime of working on powder guns and airguns, I can tell you that the words "match grade trigger" are waaaayyy overused in airguns. I've never seen any lead slinging tool of any power source that had a match grade trigger that wouldn't go below one pound, and usually much lower. I also think the phrase, "fully adjustable" is overused. Being able to move the trigger back and forth, doesn't me it's fully adjustable.

If you want to see a "match trigger", look at Anschutz, Steyr, FWB or any of the 10m airguns. The best and closest to match grade on a typical airgun is the HW100 trigger. It is stunningly designed and can be as good as a 10m rifle.

Another misused phrase is "two stage". A trigger that has free play before it contacts the sear for release is not two stage. A two stage trigger moves the sear during the first stage takeup and the "wall" is where the trigger is at it's release point, where any further pressure will fire the weapon.

EmptyTin_Tim said:

Update: the Captain O Ring kit has one that fits. Held 4k psi for 24 hrs (longer test would be better but it didn't leak right away which is a start compared to others)

It is "L" on their list and I emailed them to get the actual size.
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Only thing is it is 70 not 90 duro so will have to see how long it lasts at 4k psi.

Thanks for the help, all!

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Glad you found it! I wouldn't worry about it being 70 rather than 90. 90's are more abrasion-resistant and heat-resistant (I think), but in many cases they are not flexible enough to squish into the corner of the groove they need to seal and they leak.

stovepipe

But how well is it working for you? They are an excellent moderator if fitted and utilized per their instructions and are held in high regard by many experienced users here. I'm sure STO would be happy to respond to your concerns should you choose to contact them.

I switched to rim fires in 1984, anybody can kill a squirrel with a shotgun. I got into PCP’s right at 10 years ago and haven’t used anything else since. It’s a hoot hunting squirrels with an air rifle, I’ll never use anything else.

Michael said:

Grackle, starling, pigeon vs M4

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look like that pigeon was a long way out

airprsr said:

So far as the comments about the coyote being a hybrid; I guess that’s possible, however years ago I was able to take a black/dark phase coyote with pretty much identical color patterns including the white markings on the chest. That same year I was also able to take a white/cream colored coyote. The way I understand it these color phases do occur in wild populations. Any wildlife biologists in the group?
The body shape size seems typical to me for our area. It is normal for our coyotes to have slightly shorter noses when they’re young.

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It's not a hybrid. You guys down there have a good chance at color phased coyotes. Better than anywhere else in the country.
Was he using artificial lights? Looks like a standard scope.
What's your boy going to do with it? Get it mounted/tanned? Sell to the taxidermy market? There is a market for off colored coyotes and that's a particularly good looking one.

Joedirt199 said:

It's an inferior connection for something that is going to be under load hence the reason only Airforce makes a gun with a dovetail mount under the gun and a bipod to match. No other gun does that.

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You are entirely correct. I did my homework on it too and wound myself in circles before I discovered this. lol

At my age (67, soon to be 68) I try to find my ass with both hands, and if successful, go from there

Red dot is fun too
Hatsan with 11mm dove tail

This comment above. All my 177s shooting the 16 beast do that sometimes the 13s. My impact is smooth loading with the 13 KOs but the 16 beast are harder due to the length

nobody1 said:

I have only encountered one issue but haven't done much yet.

So far I have only filled the air gun and 24 hours later is still holding at 3300PSI.
I have not adjusted anything yet.
It is shooting 17.6 grain pellets around 870-900 FPS, and only shot about 10 pellets so far.

It is loud so I will print my LDC overnight and do actual shooting tomorrow.

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Best of Luck!

Great to hear! I’ll keep in mind Veradium Air if I need Seneca replacement parts. Thank you!

Firewalker said:

Tango Sierra has an insert ready for the Zelos!

Like other options, it cuts the report but not as much as an exterior moderator.

Try one yourself!

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These look cool but not as quiet as my simple sup cans. I tried something similar to this. Its all about surface area. The more surface area the more quiet. This style waist space.

I'm fairly new to PCPs, and don't know much about their workings.
I have a Shinsung Fire 201 that has a leak that I cannot figure out how to stop. I have checked the o-rings, I have blasted with air to try to seat the o-rings, I have tried filling with it upside down, and I've tried dry firing while filling it upside down. It's a big leak. Any help is appreciated. Photos attached showing location of leak. (The spot in the circle is just a nick in the metal from removing that pain in the butt end piece.)

I’ve had a .25 impact for years, competed with it at the PA cup and did quite well (for my first time scored a 220). I bought a conversion kit to .30 and I can’t get JSB 50.15, AEA 45’s or ZAN pellets to shoot for nothing. In .25 it would shoot a full magazine into a group at 65 yards all touching. I did get quite a bit of black grease out of the barrel when I cleaned it. I’ve tried tunes from 840fps - 900fps and it’s spraying pellets at 65 yards. 3” groups. Any general recommendations for the .30?

Max115 said:

@nef003. Sorry I am not familiar with the Arken Zulu 5x20 scope. For your case of 30 yards range, I would just zero at 20 yards and then figure out what your aim point for each yardage by shooting at a target box to see your hold over/under. Good luck and have fun.

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Thanks for replying. Will try and hope to get the range finding along with ballistic option figured out that way I can just point click and shoot.

I tested a .22 Standard before they came out and besides the clipping on the end cap was actually a pretty good gun. Never leaked, shot really well. Wasn't my kind of gun so never got used a ton as I prefer bullpups and Mini carbines. Got damaged beyond repair from a fall and after awhile I decided to just toss it instead of trying to replace the parts. Didn't pay for it so wasn't stressed but am surprised by all the issues people have from them.

Our final official Field Target match of the season will be held at DIFTA, IWLAWAC chapter, 26430 Mullinix Mill Road, Mt Airy MD 21771 on Saturday November 2nd.

The match is 10 lanes, with three targets per lane shot twice for a total of 60 shots, with one kneeling and one offhand lane.

The Troyer value for the course is 29.76 with ten targets set out at >= 40 yards; seven targets > 40T; and 7 targets with 0.375” or 0.5” kill zones.

WE NEED A FEW HELPERS AT 8:30 AM TO SET OUT STRINGS. The sight in range will be open from 9:00 – 9:50. Mandatory shooters and safety meeting and squad assignments at 9:50. Match starts at 10:00 am sharp.

Match fees are $10 for IWLAWAC members and $15 for guests. We need a minimum of 4 shooters to run the match, SO PLEASE SIGNUP IN ADVANCE. If we don’t reach a quorum by 10:00 pm on Thursday 10/31 we will post a cancellation notice that evening.

They work the mini mag between them but the panthera mag doesn't work with a certain lid on on it in the drs now that the mags come with 2 different lids it works but not for longer slugs in the drs i ended buying larger 3d printed mags didn't care for the mini mag hard to get it reloaded with my big hands lol

WobblyHand said:

I ordered that kit you posted, just to do this operation.

Which Holosun did you get? I have a green one with a ring and a dot reticle, with solar power. It's pretty nice, but pricey.

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@WobblyHand If I'm not mistaken, a Holosun 507c. It has what you're describing except the reticle is red.

I know bolt action PBs have barrels threaded to the action and many are free floated meaning there is no other contact between the barrel and the stock. If there is contact it is not to structurally support the barrel it is to dampen vibration. But the threads at the attachment point are an inch or more in diameter. I am pretty sure that no airgun uses 1 inch diameter threads to attach it's barrel.

Most airguns seem to attach their barrels with grub screws which is definitely less robust than even a much smaller threaded attachment. Some but not all airguns have clamps along the barrel to attach the airtube and/or action to the barrel. This has the effect of stiffening the barrel significantly and making the attachment more secure. Most airguns have a shroud over at least part of the barrel typically the muzzle is enclosed mainly to reduce the noise when the gun is fired. But the shroud also protects the barrel from direct contact with objects.

If I was looking for a "truck gun" which seems to be the objective I would be more concerned about the attachment of the barrel to the rest of the gun. Threaded attachment is best but I think the clamps along the barrel are more important. I also think a shroud over the barrel is preferred especially if the connection between the two is something like an O-ring with some give. The barrel diameter is also potentially significant with larger preferable.

My P35s have 13mm diameter barrels (not whimpy but not especially big) with clamps at about 6 and 11 inches from the breech tieing them to the airtube. The barrels are 450mm or about 18 inches long. The barrel is attached at the breech by one grub screw. From the second clamp they are shrouded by an aluminum shroud supported in the rear by a threaded aluminum nut and at the front by a machined aluminum diverter piece screwed to the barrel with an O-ring touching the shroud. They came with thick walled plastic stocks. They are less than $500. I think these attributes would make them a pretty good truck gun. The POI does not change in my experience from normal handling including leaning them against objects.

I would avoid a free floating barrel except possibly if the barrel is threaded into the action or otherwise very securely attached. I think a gun that clamps the barrel to the action at several points is preferable from a durability standpoint. Probably preferable to even a screwed in free floated barrel. The more the barrel sticks out past the last attachment point the more leverage there is for a bump to disturb the barrel. PBs prove a screwed in attachment can be fine but they also seem to give an idea what sort of diameter in the threads is desirable and I don't think airguns get there.

Anyone have one of these bad bois? reliable?
Looking to get a non heavy PCP airgun for desert plinkin' and they seem to be inexpensive.

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And still I had to buy a Labradar for my f-class 308 project.

I have a small, table top tripod (Leofoto LS-362C), and the (MH-60) Ball Head with Handlebar throttle style control .
Its nice, sturdy, and it will support a 10 pound rifle, if balanced correctly.
It does the job very well.

Oh for those wondering this had the power hammer spring from talon tunes installed by previous owner when I bought it. According to talon tunes it adds 80-120 fps. The max fps I could get with the JSB KO 33.49 slugs was 998 fps.