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Testing AM/Corbin slugs

I shot the Corbin 40.1 and 33 grain in .217 and .218 last night - just a brief test no real tuning.

The 40.1 were very impressive. Shooting my front bottle Panthera 600 at 50 yards all four groups averaged sub MOA including an 8 shot .539 MOA (going for a 10 shot group but ran out of reg) and five shot .551 MOA.

I do not know the velocity because the pocket Chrono would not pick them up. If I go by the velocity of the Dead Lead 43gr at 920, I would say the Corbin‘s were going 950. But I could be wrong.

They look to be very high-quality and well packaged. They have ‘lots of lube’.
I ordered 1000 more from Utah last night.

Oh yes, I almost forgot the 33gr… neither were exciting but to be fair I only shot them at 1010fps. No other tuning. They are just a standard slug like all the other companies are making.

Pellet testing on pests?

I have considered shooting a freshly roadkilled pest to see what a given pellet and power combination would do. After all, the thing is already dead. The catch is that I would want to do it right onsite, and that would be an illegal place to shoot even a low-powered air gun.

Unless it is on the private road I have legal access to...but not much roadkill on it due to light traffic volume.

Some of the public roads have hotspots where you have to play dodgem with roadkilled animals--or parts of animals--when driving. Prairie dogs galore!

Karma  Karma red panda second regulator issue.

Get yourself a digital gauge for your #2 regulator. Preferably one with a right angle adapter and mount it on the left side if you are shooting right handed. You will know for sure if there is any creep and when it happens. You will also notice how long it takes between shots to acheive a consitant psi reading between shots. You may or many not be suprised at what you find.

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AEA  BINTAC T-50 First look.

l have two Megs. My .457 had a small leak on arrival, but that was simply a faulty o-ring. Replaced it, never leaked since. No leaks at all on my .50 so far.

I bought them from local shops, in the Netherlands. We have no power limit on airguns here, like they do in Germany or the UK. So the ones you buy here are the same as the US versions.

Testing JSB 13.43g Knockouts @ different velocities 53yards

I had Martin build me a RAW HM1000x in .177 just for that purpose. I shot it in a couple of matches and did fairly well. It shoots 13.4 gr Zan slugs at 1010 fps.
I have a uragan 2 shooting 15gr HPBT slugs at 1007. Getting incredible precision.

Thoughts on buying used?

Hi NotSure2020 - my pennies worth of whether to buy used or to purchase new; to me it really boils down to how mechanically inclined you, the kind of equipment/machinery is readily available to you, the degree of repair or mods you are wanting to implement, and oh yes - how much time you have. For me, the last one has always been a challenge, because though I enjoy working on airguns and the like, sometimes I wonder if its worth the effort? Wouldn't I rather spend the little time I have shooting them instead of working on them?
This rings true for me. Another big factor is the cost. All of these mods and additions add up really quick. I’m still on the fence but the used stuff here is making it harder for me as I definitely can see wanting to add stuff but when I look up the price I’m like that’s as much as the damn gun!

FWB  Finally, a FWB100 to fill out my 6 pack

I have no clue but now that I have a pair of 777s I have zero interest in 747s. Having both 717s and 777s I don't think the 747 is relevant.
I have all 3, and to me the 747 shoots more llike the 777, it has an adjustable trigger, and better barrel making it a little more accurate than the 717. and with the weight of the 717
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Air Venturi  All Air no Bang

Cheers mate. Filled the tank up to 300 bar on the compressor gauge. Degassed using the screw on the block, which hissed plenty for 5 minutes or more showing that the tank was indeed full. Unless there's an obstruction after the bleed and before the reg (??)

No corrosion I could see, especially since it's less than a year old and I use an inline filter. I even swapped out gauges just to be sure.
I'd say if the vessel is holding some qty of air to bleed down, but the guages show nothing, pull the first guage and test it. I have never had a guage fail to zero, theyre always sprung and read high. I've probably burned up 2 dozen guages in my time with hpa too. Just had one this week on a fill station where the guage bourdon tube was leaking. Two guage failures simultaneously is nothing I've seen, id have that gun in pieces by now.

First N50 match preparation help

Hello everyone, newer member here. I joined this forum a couple weeks ago and someone local to me reached out and invited me to an N50 benchrest shoot. This hobby really just started as some backyard plinking around with my dad but after looking into the club and pictures I figured it would be a lot of fun to try out. We normally run around shooting trap and protection trap shoots so the rifle/airgun range is something totally new to me. I was looking for a little advice on what you guys normally bring to be prepared. I feel like I am going to be missing something when I show up with my Milwaukee tool bag with a few spare parts, pellets, and my super budget Vevor air compressor. I usually shoot off a bog tripod so I am looking for suggestions for legal ways to shoot off the bench for the Pellet class N50 matches. Thanks for any input!
Listen to good advice for experienced shooters.
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Snowpeak  artemis p15

Maple products in Canada sells poppets which fit my P35s and bullshark, I think they will fit your P15. I get a few less fps with them, I think it is because they do not have a radius in the steel part where it meets the plastic. But they work. I did not need to lap the one I tried to get it to work.

If the shafts of the ones you have is the right diameter, the shaft can be cut to shorten it with a cutting wheel in a dremel tool. A grinder can fine tune it. If the plastic part does not seal to the valve you can use a little valve grinding compound to grind the plastic part into the valve with the valve part that goes onto the spring in the jaws of a drill. I use high speed and a minute or two of grinding plus about the same amount of time with JSB bore cleaning paste has worked several times for me now. If the head or the part that goes into the spring is too big you can reduce the size with a sanding block turning the plastic part with a drill.

If you know how to post links, could you post one to the ones you find on aliexpress? I've tried finding them there and not been successful. Even if they require fine tuning they could be useful.
hey Jim sorry to be a pain mate but do those maple products poppet's work in the p15 that you know of mate, because my partner think's they won't because there not made from delrin 🙄 I don't know, could you please let me know when you get chance please thanks 🤝

RAW Rapid  RAW .30 @100Y

Thank you Randall.

Thanks Mike. I have tried multiple high $$$ scopes with little success. My eye sight isn't great so I can't lay all the blame on many of the scopes that I have tried. Right now I am still reverting back to my SII 36X Sightron as its been the best for me so far. I have a second Vector Optics Continental 6-48 on the way so that will be my next one to try out. The first one would not focus at 100Y but looked fantastic at 50Y. Hopefully the new replacement will be better?
Tim, I hope the replacement Vector works well for you 👍.

American Air Arms  Evol mini .30 degassing

Very easy to degass and work on! Replaced the poly poppet o-ring and the foster o-ring while I had it apart. Gassed it up to 4500psi and it still leaked. Degassed down to 1800 and got out my leaky Edgun Eazy-fill to sort of "bounce" the poppet into the foster seat. Seems to have worked. Still holding at 4.5k.

The two ragged C shaped pieces were around the stem of the poppet valve when I removed the old o-ring. Almost like trash from machining or.....? I could not think of any legit reason they would be there.

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