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Taipan Ugly/Beautiful
- By weevil
- PCP Airguns
- 67 Replies
So much for not tinkering!
Having spent a few weeks very much enjoying the Vet 2 .22 Tact, it became clear that it quickly hits a wall in terms of power at around 55fpe. Bumping up the reg and hammer does very little above 50fpe because, in short, the valving is a major impediment.
I’m not looking to turn it into a hotrod, but would like to get it into a state to shoot the Zan 28g slugs at 900fps without starting to strain the system with excessive hammer. One method would be to open up the brass valve, but I’ve heard that they’re quite fragile, so I opted to do a peek poppet with a stem that’s thinned close to the poppet surface.
Not having access to a decent lathe, the major challenge for me involves the drilling and placement of the stem, but I overcame this by making a 3D printed drilling jig that put the hole in the poppet dead center. I then reused the stem from the original poppet (which popped off far too easily for my liking), after reducing its diameter to 2mm (from 3) in the 10mm long section behind the poppet face. This effectively opens the valve throat area. The stem was then tapped into the peek and the poppet was shaped on my crappy mini lathe. The OD was reduced from 7.7mm to 7.5mm. I then surfaced the poppet face using another 3D printed jig that allowed fine sanding, culminating in 6000grit 3M cloth. It sealed right away and has been holding pressure for over 4 days.
The theory here is that the PEEK poppet opens more easily because there is less compression of the seal to overcome, so less hammer is needed to open the valve. In addition, the throat is opened by the reduced oD of the stem, allowing more flow.
The gain here isn’t huge and wasn’t intended to be - around 30fps peak at the same reg pressure of what’s estimated to be 140bar. However, I no longer need to use any shimming of the hammer spring and have the added bonus of a quieter hammer. The modest increase in power is enough to allow the gun to be in a comfortable spot shooting the Zan 28 at a speed of 905fps. I don’t know if it’s due to reg settling or this new PEEK poppet, but the ES is now down at 2!
Since getting the Mora 22, which is shooting 40g Altaros at 900fps without even breaking a sweat, I’ve decide to dedicate the Vet 2 towards shooting these .217 28 grain hollow point Zans, which it seems to shoot just as well as the Altaros. The cost are lower for one, but more importantly, I’m not so worried about the downstream consequences of pass through.
With this less edgy tune and stupidly low ES, the Vet 2 is astonishingly accurate. The RTi Mora is also fantastic but not as easy to shoot accurately, at least for me. Here’s a target from this morning at 80yards where I lost count of the number of shots and still got CTC ~1 inch. It’s still not a pretty gun but the shot cycle and ergos are fabulous…
Having spent a few weeks very much enjoying the Vet 2 .22 Tact, it became clear that it quickly hits a wall in terms of power at around 55fpe. Bumping up the reg and hammer does very little above 50fpe because, in short, the valving is a major impediment.
I’m not looking to turn it into a hotrod, but would like to get it into a state to shoot the Zan 28g slugs at 900fps without starting to strain the system with excessive hammer. One method would be to open up the brass valve, but I’ve heard that they’re quite fragile, so I opted to do a peek poppet with a stem that’s thinned close to the poppet surface.
Not having access to a decent lathe, the major challenge for me involves the drilling and placement of the stem, but I overcame this by making a 3D printed drilling jig that put the hole in the poppet dead center. I then reused the stem from the original poppet (which popped off far too easily for my liking), after reducing its diameter to 2mm (from 3) in the 10mm long section behind the poppet face. This effectively opens the valve throat area. The stem was then tapped into the peek and the poppet was shaped on my crappy mini lathe. The OD was reduced from 7.7mm to 7.5mm. I then surfaced the poppet face using another 3D printed jig that allowed fine sanding, culminating in 6000grit 3M cloth. It sealed right away and has been holding pressure for over 4 days.
The theory here is that the PEEK poppet opens more easily because there is less compression of the seal to overcome, so less hammer is needed to open the valve. In addition, the throat is opened by the reduced oD of the stem, allowing more flow.
The gain here isn’t huge and wasn’t intended to be - around 30fps peak at the same reg pressure of what’s estimated to be 140bar. However, I no longer need to use any shimming of the hammer spring and have the added bonus of a quieter hammer. The modest increase in power is enough to allow the gun to be in a comfortable spot shooting the Zan 28 at a speed of 905fps. I don’t know if it’s due to reg settling or this new PEEK poppet, but the ES is now down at 2!
Since getting the Mora 22, which is shooting 40g Altaros at 900fps without even breaking a sweat, I’ve decide to dedicate the Vet 2 towards shooting these .217 28 grain hollow point Zans, which it seems to shoot just as well as the Altaros. The cost are lower for one, but more importantly, I’m not so worried about the downstream consequences of pass through.
With this less edgy tune and stupidly low ES, the Vet 2 is astonishingly accurate. The RTi Mora is also fantastic but not as easy to shoot accurately, at least for me. Here’s a target from this morning at 80yards where I lost count of the number of shots and still got CTC ~1 inch. It’s still not a pretty gun but the shot cycle and ergos are fabulous…
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Air Venturi Avenge X burst disk specs, anyone know what the thread size is?
- By glazier1333
- PCP Airguns
- 3 Replies
Thx for the link, I went with the 7.5 simply because I fill from a tank which is never over 4500 PSI. The tank dropps to 3000 and I top it off, as many other people do.It follows the standard unified burst disk form, which is 3/8"-24TPI, but is a nonstandard 6000psi rating.
Since the max fill is 300 bar / 4350psi, I would err on the side of caution and try a 5k replacement. As you've experienced, they sometimes fail well below their rated pressure but I would not be inclined to jump to a 7.5k.
Avenger overfill / burst disc failure
First time PCP owner here. Managed to overfill and now I have a gun that won't hold air. I'm assuming it's a simple fix with a burst disc replacement, but I don't know where to look. Called Air Venturi. I was told it's a 6k PSI disc(or maybe it was 5k - I don't remember), but not how to get a...www.airgunnation.com
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Kral Arms Short and Sweet
- By aroundlocks
- PCP Airguns
- 9 Replies
Hi Dr
That stock shape and finish is mint
Only you could pull something like that off.
I'm glad your still in the Lab tinkering as I love your creations.
Karl's are great guns I cant fault my 02 and 03 they are very accurate.
Keep out the sun with that one the birdies will see you coming from the equator lol
Keep up the good work
That stock shape and finish is mint
Only you could pull something like that off.
I'm glad your still in the Lab tinkering as I love your creations.
Karl's are great guns I cant fault my 02 and 03 they are very accurate.
Keep out the sun with that one the birdies will see you coming from the equator lol
Keep up the good work
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Diana Is my Diana 34 worthy of a scope?
- By Diehard50248
- Traditional Airguns
- 84 Replies
A few things:
I did buy the RWS 1 Piece Droop Mount. I mounted it as instructed and used both stop pins. The scoped zeroed nicely with minimal elevation and windage adjustments (Less than 1/2 a turn on the dials). The gun shot very accurately for about two weeks…and then it didn’t. The mount was never so loose that it “slapped around“. But it did move a little. I initially said 1/8” but it was closer to 1/16”. So not a ton, but enough to be noticed. I removed and reattached the mount, the stop pins, and the scope. The guns shot decently for a day…and then it didn’t.
Tonight I shot three 5-shot groupings. Two with the scope and one with the iron sights. Here are the results. I’m pretty sure this indicates the scope is the issue. Do you agree?
Scope group 1: 1-7/8” ctc @ 25 yards
Scope group 2: 1-3/4” ctc @ 25 yards
Iron Sights: 7/8” ctc @ 25 yards
I did buy the RWS 1 Piece Droop Mount. I mounted it as instructed and used both stop pins. The scoped zeroed nicely with minimal elevation and windage adjustments (Less than 1/2 a turn on the dials). The gun shot very accurately for about two weeks…and then it didn’t. The mount was never so loose that it “slapped around“. But it did move a little. I initially said 1/8” but it was closer to 1/16”. So not a ton, but enough to be noticed. I removed and reattached the mount, the stop pins, and the scope. The guns shot decently for a day…and then it didn’t.
Tonight I shot three 5-shot groupings. Two with the scope and one with the iron sights. Here are the results. I’m pretty sure this indicates the scope is the issue. Do you agree?
Scope group 1: 1-7/8” ctc @ 25 yards
Scope group 2: 1-3/4” ctc @ 25 yards
Iron Sights: 7/8” ctc @ 25 yards
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