170 is the Max !!!

I get around 60 shots from a 250 BAR fill.

I have found that as well that with slugs the barrel doesn't dirty as quickly.

Okay, I figured it out. The valve seat was in there so tight that I thought I was doing something wrong. I had to really tighten things down so the lip expanded enough. And having to both push the tool into the gun while both pulling and turning the knob is awkward, but it does work... eventually.

For those curious, here's some pictures to give a better idea of how it works. There are little grooves on the bottom of the screw head that bite into the delrin when you pull and turn the knob on the other end:

Kragman1 said:

I have heard many disappointing stories about Hatsan USA's customer service, but I have a perfectly good one to share.

I recently ordered some pellets during one of their sales, and recieved all but one tin. Of course, that was the most important one to me

I emailed them, explained what had happened, got a simple apology in recognition and the pellets were shipped out, no questions asked.

I know it's a small thing, but they get an A+ from me for that one.

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Pellet/Seal kits ordering I've had no problems -- support for my AT44PA-Long -- that's quite a different story...

Trucker3573 said:

It’s one of 3 Orings. One down in threaded hole. The one in the very bottom of the reg or the one on the bottom of the piston. The one in the threaded hole and the one in the bottom of the reg are an utter PIA to deal with.

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ok thanks. I am going to replace the o ring inside the thread hole where the reg sit first. If that doesn't work, I will replace the other 2 you mentioned. Sure I can just replace all 3 but trying to do one at a time and see what is actually causing it to leak.

I know a bad idea when I think of it. But how about printing a potato size pellet and shooting it out of a pipe? Or NOT.

@wildcj5 Interesting. I didntt know they can climb trees.

Great collection of guns… I remember saving for a long time as a kid to buy one of these… I wonder if it’s still at the parent’s house somewhere.

Gerry52 said:

I thought you meant "B'wana, me see lion tracks by river" kind of gun bearer

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Ok Sir Gerry Thiggpin IV

Thanks Matt!

I worked with engineers my whole career and am used to discussions like this. I don't claim to understand the math but I'm good your explanations if only at a general understanding level. Appreciate the time you took to post this!

Guess that the takeaway for the typical airgunner is that simple PCPs are anything but simple and to think before you take a dremel to the plumbing that an engineer carefully designed.

Cheers!

I retired the first time in 2005 with 35 years at AT&T. The retired a second time at age 72 after 14 years as a certified personal trainer in local gym. I'm now 78 and have been doing airguns for about 8 years.

Uglyjohn said:

You gonna use the Ares at HFT Bill?

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I am planning on it. Right now I'm just getting use to my relatively new Sightron S6 5-35 x 56 SFP. Already I like the Locking windage turret that the Sightron didn't offer. It (Athlon Ares ETR SFP) comes with a 5" steel wheel that attaches without burggering up the factory turret. It does parallax down to 10 yards and I haven't set up my wheel yet but I did notice a small difference between 50 and 55 yards in the parallax at 15 power the lowest magnification. It does not have a 16x mark on the power ring which I wished it did. I did receive the scope as promised on 8/22 .... two days after I ordered it at Amazon and it didn't cost a nickle to get here.
The BLR1 reticle is rather thin but adjusting the ocular lens brings it out pretty decent. The one thing I liked about it and I found this true in the Heras Model that the factory turret nob has range marks 10-20-30-50 and these marks line up with the real distance to the targets. Very few scopes I have ever owed I can say that about. I still have a lot of playing with it before it will go on my HFT rifle but right now I think it has potential and $400 less that my Sightron S6 5-35-56 or $900 less that the big S6 with factory wheel is a heck of a savings. Athlon offers a great warranty also but of the 6 Athlons I own I have had no need to return them for any reason. Stay tuned I still have a lot of time left before I make a final decision. Both this Sightron and Athlon only offer the lighted target dot in their IR set up.

Additional Info ........ This afternoon I took a 5 1/2" Black and White Gamo Bullseye target. The Target has 1/8" ring numbers on it in black and white. The numbers run vertically and Horizontally on the target starting with black on white and with value numbers 1 to 5 on a white back drop and 6 to 8 on black backdrop to the 9 ring which is 1" in diameter and white. The 10 ring is a white 1/2" circle. At 50 yards with both scopes I could just make out all the numbers. At 55 yards some of the numbers became a little blurry. At Forty yards both were easy to read forward and backward. A couple weeks ago I mentioned the new S6 had the best glass I have ever looked through. I am beginning to believe the ETR is just as good to this point. I don't pretend to be a scope expert but I am telling you what my eyes are telling me and the glass on both scopes at 15X and 16X respectively is pretty darn close.
New day more Info! 8/25/24 I spent 5 hours working on my scope wheel distance marks. I started at 10 yards and worked my way up to 40 yards. All went good until that point. After 20 yards my range marks are 2.5 yards apart until 55 yards. When I drew the 40 yard mark and went to 42.5 I could not distinguish 40 from 42.5, My 45 yards came in ok but again 47.5 looked the same distance. Ditto for 50 yards the at 52.5 yards I could not distinguish it different than 50 yards. The 55 yard mark looked good. This is pretty much the same story as I had with my new Sightron S6. I do believe a shooter that can consistently make a good shot can work these disadvantages to his favor. Example: Shoot a 40 yard shot a little high with the right setup and that 42.5 will fall to. Same all the way to 50 yards. Not what I was hoping for but doable with a good shot and a little luck.
My next question is what effect will the heat have on them. I already know that the S6 will rangefind that 55 yarder 5 yards further on my wheel when the scope tube exceed 80 - 83 degrees. I haven't noticed much change on the lower end distance but my rifle is also a little more forgiving on those shots. Would Love to know what you other guys think of them and if you get similar results. My scope budget is pretty much diminished until 2027 if I can make it that far. Personally, I think the ETR has a few more options and better bang for the price.

Achilles_13 said:

Thank you, it might be worth the drive and the extra bucks then… would you mind describing the tuning process for me? Afaik (only did a basic tune on my leshiy classic), I set the regulator to get a certain speed with the hammer spring adjuster way down. ( rti p3 with the new valve might require lower pressures than the regular ones?) then use the hammer spring adjuster to adjust the spread? My leshiy classic never saw slugs because of the choked lothar walther barrel so this would be my first foray into those… Am looking forward to stretch the distances out though. We are only allowed egyptian geese and raccoon out here for now ( labeled dangerous invasive species).

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Rti P3 performance needs only regulated pressure for speed adjustment. The assisted valve uses air pressure to open and close the valve. Hammer spring tension does nothing but cause valve bounce. Adjust the hammer spring to open the valve only.

If you get a tear in your retina which is a natural occurrence with age, it may result with a lot of annoying floaters. I did and tried to live with them for two years. I finally opted for a fairly new procedure where they flush out the floaters . I have completed both eyes this year and am very happy. Don’t let them tell you you will get used to them.

SenseiSmash said:

Yes it has removable mag. Thankfully it came with 3 but I have gotten used to the loading on my GK1. If I like this as much as I think I will I may go after the Rattler in 457. Have any of you taken white tail with the Rattler?

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@SenseiSmash @Cheplicki and Dana are the people that come to mind taking deer with Rattlers. Dana took down an axis deer with the .457 (I think) and Cheplicki a white tail with the .357 from what I can remember.

I searched and didn't see much here but it may be my search skill. I have seen a few posts that suggest the Avenge-X is designed more around .22 and .25 so is pretty hot in .177. My reg is at about 1800 psi and it is still shooting at about 950 to 960 fps with 10.3 to 10.5 grain pellets. The SDs are 2-3 fps. The seem to usually fly well, but "catch" air like a curve ball on occasion.

There are 2-3 folks who have posted they thought the .177 version of the Avenge-X was better suited to being tuned at on the low setting. This runs about 825 to 830 fps. It too has about a 2 fps SD. It doesn't show the "catch" air phenomenon.

Not fully understanding the high/low transfer port operation means I am not sure what the trade off is in such cases. If all seems well when running it there does it create an inefficiency in some way I don't understand?

Sorry for the newbie question.

Love the way how you're trying to save a buck or 10.

I am in the same boat. Got to limit my spending.


But I made a terrible mistake a couple of months ago — and it takes all my meager self-discipline to keep myself from going broke:
I bought a
se•mi—au•to•ma•tic
airgun.



My friends:
I had no idea what kind of rabbit hole the semi-automatics represent (not even talking about full-auto — I might as well sell house and car and move in a salvation army dormitory.... ).
It's not really a rabbit hole — it's a sink hole, it's a crater, it's a canyon....!!






If after this post you don't hear from me again, you know why.
Don't come looking for me.
It's not safe.

Matthias

JaceSpace1369 said:

I didn't know that, thanks for that lesson.

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Not sure which part but glad to inform. For a valve to 'close faster' one would...need to cut the dwell and power. Most airguns gun that are loud relative to their power are generally exhibiting hammer bounce, air escaping somewhere other than the bore, or an over-driven valve remaining open beyond the point that air can transfer meaningful energy to the projectile, thus becomes energy escaping the bore creating more noise.

You have to deliberately take steps to create a 'blow open valve' or a slow closing valve that remains open until pellet leaves the barrel or the air going into the barrel is no longer useful, by either over driving the valve or arranging such that there is no, or next to no closing force present at all. Hammer bounce naturally occurs unless mitigation is present, due to the nature of how rapidly valve closure nominally occurs, sending the hammer back violently into the hammer spring to rebound and re-open the poppet before the regulator even gets a chance to completely refresh the plenum.

I've been hearing it for the last 8 years, light hammers, this valve tech, that valve tech making for snappier shot cycles. Well...I have one of the lightest hammers (4 gram hammer) and best valve techs (pilot valve) available in my gun, and its no more efficient nor making more any more power than it was conventionally. It simply requires less force to operate, and a lot of complexities to produce. The only aspect of it that is snappier is the overall hammer lock time, in my case.

*edit*

And for a valve to make more power than another valve in the same setup in the absence of valve lock or valve dwell limitation, the 'tech' would have to extract more power out of air than what we currently are, by super heating the air or something to that nature, which technically is raising the pressure. And before someone mentions axial valves, that's reclaiming energy loss due to two less 90 degree turn, which isn't ground breaking and the industry isn't heading that direction.

-Matt

Photos added to above post.

subscriber said:

Buckrail appears to use more than one type of 3D printing technology. The segmented moderator linked below is made via SLS or selective laser sintered:

Modular Suppressor

Modular Airgun Suppressor Made in the USA by a veteran/family-owned and operated business Laser Fused PA12 Nylon. 1/2UNF and M14X1.25 use steel threaded inserts Modular threaded design allows for c…

buck-rail.com

Many of the older moderators are printed via extruded molten filament:

1/2-20 UNF Suppressor

1/2-20 UNF Suppressor Designed to be compatible with 1/2-20 UNF male threads Choose from .177/.22, .25, or .30 caliber and with or without taper 3d printed in Polycarbonate plastic in the US by a v…

buck-rail.com

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I know nothing about the printing processes but it feels very similar to the polymers on my firearm pistols.

Old_School said:

Late reply, but I use these flip-up lid plastic containers for my Maverick. Not as elegant as the ones from Etsy, but functional enough to protect magazines when they're in my pocket or shooting bag. They also are handy for storing pellets or slugs.

Amazon.com

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Thank you!

Very cool. Thanks for sharing.

muradtexas said:

I have a Leshiy classic as a compact gun for urban pesting and stuff. I also have an AGT Uragan 2 for more serious hunting. That said, I have firearms, so Uragan may have been an overkill for my needs. I am wondering if I should sell my Classic Leshiy and Uragan 2 and buy Leshiy 2 to replace both.

Anything I need to know about Leshiy 2? I was looking at REPR-X Long with Behemoth thingy attached. But I also see people rocking different regulators and all that. Is that something necessary or? Am I really upgrading by trading them for Leshiy 2? I shoot my Leshiy 2 all the time. It is super fun for plinking and pesting. The trigger is weird and creeps without a nice break like you may be used to. I love mine.

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muradtexas said:

I have a Leshiy classic as a compact gun for urban pesting and stuff. I also have an AGT Uragan 2 for more serious hunting. That said, I have firearms, so Uragan may have been an overkill for my needs. I am wondering if I should sell my Classic Leshiy and Uragan 2 and buy Leshiy 2 to replace both.

Anything I need to know about Leshiy 2? I was looking at REPR-X Long with Behemoth thingy attached. But I also see people rocking different regulators and all that. Is that something necessary or? Am I really upgrading by trading them for Leshiy 2?

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