Airgun Al said:

I agree, but I actually prefer no logo at all!

Also, the 1/2" x 20 threads at the end of this chrony, means it should attach to probably 90% of .30 caliber and smaller airguns with or without an LDC adapter.

The Notos is the only airgun that I own, that it will not attach to.
A 3D printer could produce a simple sleeve to slide this chrony over a oem Notos moderator, and fasten in place via set-screws on the side.

Correct me if I am wrong, but the $30 Chinese chrony lacks the portability that this one offers, as it seems too bulky, to attach directly to a muzzle.

Im not certain as to why these have disapeared off of Aliexpress, but I hope they become available again, as Id like to purchase more!

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Well ... Maybe somewhat . That one I pictured I take around easy , mind you it dot just slip in a shirt pocket. But it's not a pain ether. Pretty quick and easy to me anyway .. ,

I am still scratching my head on the new model PP 750? If I get this right they went from a 10mm barrel to a 12 mm barrel, That's not a new model thats a barrel change ,
Mike

GTA that is Ford,I did have a 1966 Shelby Mustang I, am old also and getting older,like old too soon ,smart too late

Luis, wonderful haul with your Atomic! Great pics!

Your original post makes me think your rifle needs a rebuild with some fresh o-rings. Maybe start with the easy ones inside & outside of the brass port. My stock 700mm Impact can easily get 27 gr. slugs to 1000 FPS with the 2nd reg at 125. I cannot imagine your 100 mm shorter barrel would max out as you describe, but I don’t have any experience with that length so would defer to those that do.

I also bought a slug liner but the results I’ve gotten with the 1:24 pellet liner and 27 gr. slugs at 50-150 yards have kept me there.

They are nice for night shooting, but on the downside it is something extra not to work..

shambozzie said:

Everything you said is true. You just forgot to mention the great white shark tank you have to drag along.. very nice gun .your money. Go for it .

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It won't let me upload the video

Anyone try them? I’m looking at this CCS Stock Collapsible. I like the idea of the pic rail at the bottom for use with an rear adjustable elevation/windage base I made. One review I’ve read says the stocks don’t have much play, which is also ideal. It can be easy to attach a small rail as an extended bag rider also.

My P35 in 25 caliber was my first bullpup. I liked it so much I bought a 177 and 22 as soon as Krale got them back in stock. I shot it with H&N FTTs which are only 20 grains for about the first year. Only about 32 fpe but it worked fantastic on squirrels. It still has my most of any of my airguns with 18. All but three passed through. Only two ran at all, both shot in the middle of the chest with the pellet stopping under the skin in the rear. They did not go far.

In March and April this year I worked on retuning the gun to more like 50 fpe. I got a bigger plenum sold by Xtreme airguns which helped a lot. In early April I had it shooting barely over 800 fps. I found it to be challenging since there is no gauge to tell you where you are on the regulator and the hammer spring will not open the valve if you turn the regulator up too far. But it was working fine and I put it in the coffee table and started playing with other guns.

July 17th I pulled it out to shoot expecting it to have a little more power from the warmer weather. It was about 92 F that day. To my dismay the velocity was under 600 fps. Based upon earlier experience I was pretty sure the hammer spring was no longer able to open the valve. Turning it up as far as possible and still cock the gun only got me a little over 600. So I turned the reg down about 1/4 turn and got to about 760 fps. I figured I could get a few more fps but didn't want to get too close to another problem so I left it there.

Yesterday I took it out of the coffee table to fix a slow leak. I guessed it was either the one way valve O-ring or the big O-ring on the gauge end of the airtube. When I got it apart they looked good so I just put a little more silicone grease on them and reassembled. It seemed to be holding air but I let it sit overnight and started shooting it today. The first couple shots were back down under 600 fps but then it jumped back up to about 800 fps. I started shooting when it was about 72 F and shot my last shots near our high of 84 F. I don't know why it went down from where I left it so much and then jumped up like that. I shot it around 25 shots and it stayed in the 795-820 fps range. Mostly over 800. I decided the hammer spring was probably still a little high and turned it down 3/4s of a turn in 1/4 turn increments. That only dropped velocity about 5 fps each 1/4 turn. I decided to leave it at 1/2 turn less than I started the day. It was about 79 F when I did the tuning. I shot three shots at 5:30 when it was about 84 F. Velocity was 807, 804 and 795. Not sure why it fell each shot but I saw swings this big in the longer string earlier in the day. Now my plan is to test next week when the temperature will be in the upper 90s. I'm hoping this tune continues to work.

The JSB Heavies MKII this gun prefers weigh about 35 grains in the tins I have so I am right at my target 50 fpe. If the tune will work in a little hotter weather I think it's set. But I'm still unsure why the velocity jumped up today almost 200 fps with no change to the regulator or hammer spring. Maybe there was something slowing the hammer down that went away? Regardless of why I'm glad it working well now. I also find it curious that I'm getting 800 fps with a lower regulator pressure more easily opened by the hammer. The velocity falls slowly when I come off the reg in this gun and my other P35s so it makes it harder to know exactly what the regulator setting is. I did not go below 790 fps until the tank pressure was about 120 bar. The regulator could be as low as 125. Or could be more like 135 with it just falling very slowly as it comes off. Either way power doesn't go down quickly and I could clearly use it down to 120 bar or even a bit further. I'll need to do a long string to really know shot count but my estimate based upon how it decreases is I will have about 40 good full power shots.

Leak also seems fixed and I also fixed a little issue with cocking. If the velocity stays up around 800 next week in the warmer weather I think I will have my tune for this gun.

Hello, all

After firing my Diana .177, the safety jammed/seized up. Did not want to force it, so oiled it. I then worked the action (cocked it) a few times and it started working again. Is this common with Chinese Diana rifles?

First day on forum.

As most of you, we had BB gun since we were kids. Mine was a Daisy mod 25. Must be around 55+ years old. I still have it. Those were the days.

NG

Same question as on Thursday - the spring is part #13:

Great idea, thanks for sharing

Complete process through following video

I hear Fred’s going to the EFT Grand Prix in Oregon if any wanted to get a clean Whip

The spring is not from the trigger sub-assembally.

It is part #13 which goes in the rear.

Well, so far I am not thinking of doing much. I am currently thinking I got very lucky. The AA 10.3's shoot great in my TX200 as well so it seems a boon.

I fear the high setting Benjamin's 10.5's are too hot and will catch wind unexpectedly. So they seem iffy to me yet. I have a couple of 13 grain pellets coming to see how they do. If they do ok it will be good.

I am satisfied with the AA 10.3's on low so it is only an "if" I get something else to work that is a bonus here.

I picked up an older pistol with the wire safety and 5 pin trigger housing.How do I disable the auto?

Scotchmo said:

Frank, our club has a similar set (with steel backstops) for regular airgun silhouette.

I’m aware of only two competitions that have airgun speed silhouette, Pyramyd Air (1/10 scale at 10, 25, 40, 55ds) and EBR (1/5 scale at 25, 35, 45, 55yds). I’ve done the EBR speed silhouette a few times. It is fun. Are there others airgun speed silhouette competitions?

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Nothing like EBR or PA Cup, but Rex J of NM had a bunch of 1/5 scale targets made up 4-5 years ago, and we started having informal silhouette matches on the Friday evening before Sat AM ft matches. This was with the Airgunners of AZ field target club at the summer matches just south of Flagstaff. B/c of the extra chickens, Rex called it "chicken little."

The game started at 40, 50, 60, 70 yards. Using our sub20 fpe field target guns, and a ft legal position. Most use the bucket/stool and sticks. At each distance there are 5 targets, ram, turkey, pig, chicken, chicken. Three shooters for each "heat." Shoot through twice for a total of 40 possible shots. One shot per animal, if you miss, that animal stays standing. Usually 7 minutes to do the above.

Sometimes we go 50, 60, 70, 80 yards b/c too many were shooting perfect 40/40 scores. This past weekend was one of those times we went to 80. Pretty windy day so three of us tied for first with a 35/40 score. We put 15 chickens at 80 yards, 5 for each of us, as a tie breaker.

Slightly different than seeing how fast they can all be knocked down with as many shots as possible like at the big events. But very fun, enough so that Kent G of Flagstaff had another set made up and we now do these matches on ft weekends a couple times a year down in Southeastern AZ and most summer months near Flagstaff.

Our reset process is manually. The rxtargetsysyem's target in the OP here would be much more convenient.

Smitty911 said:

Didn't you buy this gun used? If so that's like buying a Chevy with unknown miles and asking what that noise it. Then just returning it without any real investigation.

Good luck in the future.

Smitty

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After trying several different custom tunes. Multiple diffrent speeds on factory mode, cleaning the barrel, trying lubed and dry pellets, and after 1500-2000 shots and getting pretty consistent golf ball size groups at 50yards yes i elected to send it back. I tried just about every .30 cal pellet and a few different slugs no 5+ shot groups under 1" at 50

Any welding and industrial gas outfit will hydro test a cylinder. They can also tell you the max fill pressure. It should be stamped on the bottle.

They may not do a carbon fiber tank if it truly expands. It will shatter the glass on the hydro tank. I have never tested one. But I have had hundreds of aluminum and steel cylinders done. If things stretch too much during the test it ruptures the glass disk on the tank gauge.

That's what they are testing .... the elasticity of the cylinder. If the glass disc breaks it fails.

They may do carbon fiber with a different gauge I have no idea.

The Archer said:

FYI: The moderator will not effect velocity, check the top hat and tune.

1. Top Hat, check the top hat to make sure the threads are not stripped and that it's adjusted properly. Typically you can turn the top hat out until it touches the feed ramp, then turn it back in 1 full turn. Fire the gun three times and check to see if the top hat moved. If it did the threads are likely damaged and needs replacing.

If your top hat tests good, you likely have the rifle tune set incorrectly.

2. Tune, a properly tuned Texan should give you very tight spreads of under 5fps when tethered, and about 15fps (3 shots) when not.


Copy this "How to tune your AirForce Texan for max velocity with the least amount of air" and past it into the search box at the top right of this page. It will take you to a post where I have instructions on how to tune your rifle, there is also a downloadable spreadsheet you can use to track your progress. Please let me know if this helps.


DG

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Thanks. Much appreciated

Motorhead said:

Sure ... as I've got one too that's put up with my shenanigans for 42 years !!

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And she makes some crazy good deviled eggs!!

I have exactly what you are getting but with a Riton 4-32x56. I have the Zulus you want on a .25 and the DNT TNS 226R on an EVOL 30. I can easily hit the steel targets at 235 (my range limit) consistently and not bad grouping. The gun/scope combos are way better than me so a good shooter could whittle them down.

Saying that, I use the 3-12 LRF way more for < 70 yard shots due to a wider FOV.

Notice how the three hole version has a groove joining them, for the air to spread circumferentially? As sb327 said, the thimble orientation does not matter with the three hole version.

Another benefit is that the three smaller holes won't allow the projectile to drop into the transfer port hole and scrape. That said, the outer transfer port hole edges on the 3-hole version have some burrs. These don't matter, but if there are burrs at the inside of these TP holes as well, those will scrape the projectile. In which case some careful deburring with a small scraper or needle file is suggested. Not a job for an incoordinate Dremel burr....

Did they show the distance for any of these trick shots? I thought he mentioned the guy hitting the card at "50"