I tried the Flyswatter challenge again.
I used my FWB 601 with peeps and front aperture at 10 yards seated at the bench.
Very difficult to see the flys at that range.
14/25…

Make sure you get the right diameter for your scope.

Notice you used the FX tag when making the thread. Maybe some elaboration? I tried a couple different weights of the new style FX .25 slugs this year. Both looked just fine but were hot garbage no matter what I tried out of both of my .25s. Chocked it up to neither rifle liked em and got added to the collection of others that didn't perform well enough to mess with further.

I have two T01 guns. The reality is, as it is, you cannot make the stock T01 trigger (Mike's point noted, and established usage preferred) very light if you want to have a two-stage trigger pull. Adjusting the trigger so that it's a single stage trigger you can get it as light and crisp as any sporter trigger. My D34 trigger is like that, and so good I don't care that it's a single stage (and have never adjusted it).

That being said, you can substantially lower the two stage trigger pull as well as make it much smoother by stoning and polishing the machined sear bottom that faces the trigger adjusting screw tips. Doing that made my D52 two-stage trigger pull just perfect.

Your stock refinish R+R is the likely culprit for the POI change. Pay close attention where wood meets the barrel and remount the rifle in the stock.

Pictures as promised.


The original brown grip was in a really bad way, but I had been gifted an intact UK-made Phoenix item.
The cold blue has not taken so well on some parts, so I may try again on those. I was very pleased how the sight ramp I made from scratch turned out though.

So today I spent some quality time with my Urban. And I removed the DFL Tanto and installed the OC_ printed moderator. I am really happy with how this little moderator cuts the noise with no effect on POI. Maybe because it is relatively short. Shooting CPHP at about 20 yards:







The Urban is an inheritently accurate little rifle and not ammo particular. I just do not abide ammo particular rifles. It will do 20+ shots at 26 fpe or 30+ shots at 22 fpe. It is also a loud rifle with a sharp crack without any moderator. My wife quickly told me to put "that" back on. With a moderator the rabbits and deer and birds go about their business as I shoot, without "that" they all scurry off to hide .

It did not take long... the Hades is a no-go for this gun as it is currently setup. I could chase down a better setting, but why change what works and is already set? I have 8K+ AA domes on hand - I'ma stayin' with that.

Trucker3573 said:

I’m curious about the 34 gr .25 cal ones. I thought they were supposed to release this year ?

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Me too, where are these 34 grain Heavy Hades .25 caliber pellets I read about?

Thanks Mike
I took my Palm self off today, Just fits in my hand better,, Thanks, I even pulled my P11 out and shoot a few rounds 1st springer I have shot in two years. Ha,
Anyone notice how tight the barrel is on the Zoraki 22 ?
I am not into pinpoint accuracy with my pistols just hit the can is all I ask,
Mike

Plans changed slightly. I haven't heard a word from lethal air for over 3 weeks now. I didn't send then my texan because we never finished talking over my quote.

I have a maddog stock on order and when doug called we got to talking and he has a good machinist local that does barrel work for him. He also knows the texan inside and out and will fire lap barrels, polish out parts, and do trigger work ect.

Long story short I'm going to send my texan to him for his services. I'm going to let him do his magic on my stock valve and internals and skip the AAO valve upgrade for now. Doug thinks I can get what I'm looking for without it and I'm all for less stress on the gun if I can still achieve my goals.

Shipping texan off today and I'll report back with some results when I get it back.

Have a Hawke 1X20 on the PP700S-A
And a Vector Frenzy on the Velox.

Wow, thats like a piece of art.

PK

Headshots said:

What type of grease are you guys using for the piston assembly ?

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Go to https://targetforge.net/ for lubes and spare parts.

OP requested to close thread due to topic drift.

Interesting question. Since moisture corrosion will be the most likely thing to make an aluminum cylinder fail; if you keep the water out of your air Id expect many years. Probably better measured in decades. Thinking about how many pcp are still in service that were built in the 80s and 90s I wouldnt really worry about it too much.

The other thing to think about is the potential energy with a thin walled aluminum cylinder is far less than a CF tank. So even if it does fail, the DRS is probably one of the safer pcp designs.

I had a Diana 34- .177 I bought at a pawn shop back in the early 80s I think 82. Had a scope on it but can't remember which one. That gun was a tack driver. loaned it to a "friend" and he left town with it lol. Ive had a couple of each Diana and HW since. Currently I'm down to one. HW95N .20
I love it so far.

rangur1 said:

I doubt I'm even close to that. This gun is got a heavy hammer spring, reg at 150 with a plenum capable of 70-73 foot pounds for slugs. But I loosen the hammer spring for low power pesting around the property. Those big adjustments must be affecting performance, just figured the effect would be even from 250-150 bar.

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Yes, lowering the hammer spring tension that much will make many regulated guns follow a power curve like that. The opposite is also true in that too much hammer spring tension will have a regulated gun's power go down linearly as the fill pressure decreases.

Many people with Taipans use the hammer spring knob as a quick power adjuster but I just don't believe it's the intended purpose for that. It really is a tuner knob that should be set and left alone. From my experience, that adjuster is VERY sensitive and it is very difficult to return it exactly to where it was once moved. This is why I never touch mine once I have the gun tuned properly.

Arkangel1200 said:

The metal tipped slugs I was referring to are these https://www.alcobullets.com/shop/pr...irgun-pellets-swaged-metal-tip-and-flat-nose/

As I described them was a poor way of describing. We have wild hog that are quite dangerous so it's a matter of hunting predator species.

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Lee Molds has 2 cavity aluminum molds in .458 they are under$40.00 with handles. Buy pure lead from a junk yard its roofing lead in sheets or rolls usually $1.00 a pound

Thanks. Got an email from him this morning.

After you found this issue, did you test again to verify things?

We have all been there, so don't worry. Typically it is a stupid thing we overlook that causes the most problems.

The V2 have a build in battery, so it can also go on a charger and also while shooting if you are able to deal with the wire.
In the V1 i have to remove the 3 AAA batteries and put them in a charger, but i do have 4 sets of batteries.

drsquall said:

Good morning,
I am looking for an affordable thermal handheld scanner for using around the barn and chicken coop when I am pesting at night. I use a Pard nightstalker on rifle but want a thermal scanner to scan around the place I'm hunting. Now I don't need a 640 I could probably get away with a 256. Just trying to save battery on pard and don't want to keep it on at all times. I currently use red/green lights but want something better. I don't need to be able to really need to go past 100yds because most of my pesting is at 50yds or less. This is for coons and rats, skunks. Trying not go over 500-600 cost

Thanks
Jon

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I use the AGM Taipan TM10-256 and it works great for detection. I also like this model as it provides a wide field of view. If I see a heat signature, I can investigate with my higher resolution thermal scope.

It's forecasted to be a nice day in Palmyra, PA on Sunday.

Gen 1 and Gen 2 .357 Terminators on American Airgun Classifieds.

Several other big bores too.

Couple auctions for Bulldog .357 on Gunbroker.com getting close to end with no bids. Both under $700 opening bid.