Threads

Garrettkq · Dec 22, 2024

If you are interested and would like to go. Email me ASAP at garrettKQ at gmail dot com if you haven't already emailed Greg. This event is expected to fill nearly instantly in January. Be ready to commit to going financially when I send you the detailed entry instructions in the next couple of weeks. Remember, this is nonrefundable if you get in, so firm commitments are needed.
With the numbers we have now, it is anticipated everyone can go.

FEES:

The Entry Fee is $260 USD. This includes the Closing Ceremony meal for the competitor.
Each additional Awards Ceremony ticket is $65 USD

Platebar14 · Dec 7, 2024

Theman406 said:
It is a dowty washer, airguns of Arizona has them or huma air

Thanks!

Gsyme · Dec 29, 2024

I'll try to do that jcalvert. I'm glad you found the thread useful. I did too! There are many helpful people on this site, with a lot of experience. So far the avenger seems really accurate and easy to use but I am not in love without it feels. Maybe a wood stock would help ... It was also a lot more fun to me to buy a used gun from an individual here than a new one from Pyramyd, though I was not opposed to that option.

Squirrel hunter · Dec 7, 2024

Long_Shot said:
Is this close to what you want?
You got one finally.

View attachment 518539

Yes sir. Thank you. This is exactly what I was looking for.

ShootingTargets7 · Dec 7, 2024

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Nethawk · Dec 14, 2024

internal server error - this site won't let me upload the jpegs - sorry. Anyhow lol trust me - the suit looks SWEET!

Humdinger · Dec 8, 2024

I resealed an identical Airhog valve like yours for a friend a few years ago. If you take a crescent wrench and unscrew the square behind the threads there is a rubber o ring behind it that seals the assembly. Replace it and you'll be good to go. No need to trash a perfectly good valve. Also, DO NOT submerge the valve unless you want to permanently fog up the gauge.

RatRacer · Dec 7, 2024

Airhog went out of business over a year ago. I bought some of his parts when he was clearancing them out cheap cheap.

thauglor · Jan 20, 2025

Instead of starting a new thread for the 177 DRS owners, maybe we can make this sn info thread. Lots of info on 22 caliber in the main thread but little in 177

I got my drs Saturday, 600mm classic. Came from Utah Air with the inspection sticker saying 10.3 gr at 900fps. Been too cold here to do any real testing, but 10gr h&n slugs were grouping 6 to 8 inch at 30 yards. Switched to 10.65 gr baracudas and grouping about 2 to 3 inches at 30 yards. This was all from standing, so I am happy until I put it to paper and do some tuning

cmatera · Dec 24, 2024

It's 10 MEANINGFUL posts

Ranchibi · Dec 7, 2024

Zack! Glad you found and hopefully fixed the leak!

rwsmike · Dec 12, 2024

Very very nice find

Dr. Kralenstein · Dec 8, 2024

Ok graphic images ahead

Pellet went in left front shoulder and road around and the rib cage, under to the right side and then entered thru abdominal wall and popped out the right leg hip area.

Never entered the vitals, even at 28 fpe from 10 yards.

This is where it should've came thru the rib cage. Left lung and heart are intact.

Crazy to think it didn't even punch thru the ribs.

The right lung was hit one the second kill shot. Looks like I clipped the top of the heart as well, but hard to tell.

Jay308 · Jan 18, 2025

I just bought the Hawke Sidewinder 4-16x50 ffp moa at Camera Land on sale(back ordered though). I hope it works out for me, we’ll see.

The Athlon Helos 4-20x50 ffp is on sale to, along with most Athlons.

Jay308 · Dec 7, 2024

HogKiller said:
Short answer is, it won't hurt. I've got two Mavs, a 600mm (.22) and a 700mm (.25) One is glued, epoxy, one is 'floating'. Zero difference in efficiency, but....better than a plain soda straw. As long as it's a really good slip fit it'll stabilize the soda straw. AND it's REALLY sensitive to how loose or tight the lock nut is.

You’ve always helped me out, I just didn’t want to somehow make it worse by not tightening it correctly.

cavedweller · Dec 15, 2024

beerthief said:
Still the same fiddley extra piece fill adaptor that we have to buy and change . I have a 510 and misplaced the adaptor so gun is useless till i find it .

If you can’t find it, I have extra as all my AA’s are now foster QD.

Long_Shot · Dec 12, 2024

rangur1 said:
I guess the debate is what is really needed for a task, with exceptions always occurring. Or using overkill and risking collateral damage. This is the balance we all seek.
For the post to be the most beneficial, responses should try to stay objective. We all have had “exceptions “ but they’re really not the norm. It’s too easy for the thread to trail off into the weeds.

Looks like your thread is becoming a safety meeting. Common sense, know whats behind your target.
I thought overkill is making a Starling explode into pieces, from a moderately powered .22 or .25 cal. slug.

Projectiles, purpose? Necessity?

I don't shoot pellets anymore, so I won't make any reference to them.
Projectile type makes the difference. No matter the cal. or game, the proper projectile is the key "necessity" for a given "purpose".
Large caliber for big game ( Hog, Deer, Bear ) require a more controlled expansion and deeper penetration from the projectile.

Small game/pests ( Rabbit, Squirrel, Pigeon, Starling ) need energy dump fast, not penetration.
Most typical .22 or .25 cal. HP slugs shot at 50 Ft-lbs. or more will have too much penetration. Verified by testing them.
Yet a small .22 cal. 22gr. @ 780 FPS 30 Ft-lbs. can be very effective because of slug type. Even at 100 yards.
I'm not saying that a HP slug won't dispatch a pest. Just that the right type slug can work better for the purpose.

Here's a few old photos that show what can be accomplished with a purpose made slug.....

These HP slugs didn't dump much of the available energy. Still going over 500 FPS.

2" gel. is actually slightly denser than the small pests we typically shoot.

Starling cadaver shot with a slow 750 FPS .25 cal. 38gr. fragmenting slug.

Jimmyjam · Dec 11, 2024

If you look at the data for "low power" sheet all the shots were at one TP setting and looks very good!

Thanks again to you guys for helping me out

Mlydon · Dec 6, 2024

I picked up a wood classic avenge -X a few weeks back. Love the gun, but mine had a couple of defects, so it’s going back. I’m replacing it with the wood/bottle version. I found the tube to be fairly nose heavy. From the looks of things, the bottle is lighter, and sits further back.

Has anyone handled both? Is the balance difference all that notable?

Matt

Dr. Kralenstein · Dec 7, 2024

The sear spring is giving me an issue. It won't engage now when at level, only if I point it down. Good thing I know a guy who can fix it! I think it needs to be just a smidge longer. It's super light pull too, so that'll add a couple ounces back to the trigger which is a good thing because it's slightly unpredictable ATM.

dens228 · Dec 7, 2024

Kind of like all of those posting as they wonder why they can't post in classified section, too impatient to give a bit to the forum yet unaware that their odds of selling a fairly high priced item on a forum to people they don't know, basically using the honor system, are low and will make the wait for classified access seem like a nanosecond.

BABz58 · Dec 16, 2024

BABz58 said:
Anyone added a moderator to the the Kratos with the shrouded barrel? Like having 2 moderators on the same rifle.

The ping is the loudest thing on this when shot. Anyway to reduce the ping noise?

EMrider · Dec 8, 2024

Mycapt65 said:
What you experienced with your R7s is what usually happens. It's annoying for a while then smooths out when the parts mate. The Hw30 I bought for my friend will probably end up the same way. Well, unless he notices and asks for help.

As far as preemptive work. DO NOT use a dremel. At least on the long part of the cocking arm. Dremels and similar rotary tools are quick way to get sloppy results. Being a mechanic and machinist by trade I have excellent hand control. I spent many hours in my racing days porting cylinder heads and intake manifolds with rotary tools and never could get a perfectly straight surface with them. You want long straight smooth surfaces not the long wavy surfaces rotary tools leave behind. It's not super critical and I guess a dremel can do the job. It just wouldn't be pretty and proper enough for me. Once metal is removed you can't easily put it back.

The best method I've found for those long sharp edges on is pushing a fine metal file along the full length. Then I lengthwise block sand the edges smooth with 240 wet dry. They don't need to be polished as much as rounded and smooth. They don't have to be rounded much either. Just enough not to cut.

The front section of the cocking arm is two stampings riveted between the folded rear stamping. That joint is usually tight and should be exercised as I belive I already posted. Inspect the top of the joint for sharp points on the two center pieces. You'll often see marks in the comp tube that match these points. Here a sanding roll on a dremel can be used to round any large sharp points on the forward link. After that I'll open that joint all the way and block sand the radius of the entire back of the joint.

In extreme cases where the gun has been used alot the galling on the comp tube can get furry and have slightly raised edges on the scoring. Assuming you bothered to just do the process above, you should remove the high points in the scoring to prevent them from making a new wear pattern or breaking off and getting in the gun.

Parallel the comp tube galling with masking tape to protect unaffected areas and block sand across the scoring. It won't look pretty as you'll loose some bluing but it will function better. The area isn't visible with the gun all together and gets coated with moly grease when done so there's no real corrosion issues to be worried about.

With all this filing and sanding its critical you thoroughly wash all the pieces involved. Filings carried by grease can get embedded in the worst places and cause you far worse problems than you just fixed.

Overall, this is a little bit of work but I helps give piece mind and smooths the gun sooner. It's worth doing if you'll already have the gun apart or it's a particularly rough sounding rifle.

HTH
Ron

Super helpful, thanks, and I'll do as you suggest

R

Hepotter · Dec 8, 2024

Thanks for the input. Yeah, in remission, two more years to go to reach the magic "5" anniversary.

gendoc · Dec 8, 2024

Gerry52 said:
(but Freud DID say "sometimes a cigar is just a cigar").

and Frank Zappa said "depends on whats in it"

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Projectiles, purpose? Necessity?​

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Last weekend (12-7-24) for guaranteed delivery by Christmas.

Add items to cart to unlock automatic discount

FREE Gongs added to cart automatically once qualified

Projectiles, purpose? Necessity?