Wadcutter said:

That's about right for the full meal steroid deal. The Mac1 website has been MIA for over a year, so I don't think there will be any made in the future. I haven't seen very many SS steroided guns either.

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I actually got ahold of him several months ago. He was still doing it then.

Thanks all, appreciate your experiences.

Tempted, I would like to make sure they will work before going too crazy

Hello.......Has anyone installed the 42 Cu. In. - 700 CC - 61.5 MM Dia. Air Cylinder and custom Hajimoto 18MM-1.5 NINJA Regulator on the Gauntlet 2 in 22 Cal. ?
Assuming I stay with the factory Reg Pressure of 1900 PSI , how many shots to expect with a full 4500 PSI fill ?

Pantanni said:

Do you remember how thick of a washer you used? Did your get it from a hardware store?

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Quite literally one of the white delrin washers from the socket of a 1/8npt threaded air gauge hole. In fact, it was one of the spares from my huben reg kit I'm pretty sure it's 3 or 3.5mm thick maybe 8mm wide

I can recommend the ARH kit along with a Vortek seal for your tune. No experience with TbT kit. My HW95 is absolutely silent cocking and a dull thud with the shot. The rifle averages about 17 FPE after almost 8K pellets and sometimes I can shoot MOA at 25 yards but not always. This is the shot cycle recorded via an iPhone at 5' to 7'.


Recent chrono numbers.

That part has been a concern of mine soon as I seen it. Looks too flimsy for all the force being applied to it. And I think you need special too just to take it out. Hopefully put some in stock at least.

No thank you, have Dyastate for long time I never shoot under the half tank, is just this FX has to many regulations, thanks anyway for your help, and info.

Michael.....that looked like FUN!

I thought it was a hatsan model 25 sc ..

Looks pretty darn close the same if your able to look measure or match them to be sure a good fit .

Then ask hatsan parts to send you one ..

Can't post the picture .. sorry

JimD said:

The best way to set a regulator without a plenum gauge or markings starts with shooting down until your velocity falls telling you you are off the regulator and noting the pressure. You know the regulator is slightly higher. Then you turn the screw a little, like half a turn or less, and repeat. There is no defined stopping point for the regulator screw so I don't know how anybody can say 130 bar is 3.5 turns. Which way and from what starting point? The screw falls out at one point and you may damage the spring washers going too far the other way. I think its best to not try to take silly ill conceived short cuts.

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Your services might be required further down the page in the Newbie Artemis P15 topic. I just can’t answer questions about a .177.

I'm using a Holosun sight on a GK1. It's mounted on a short Picatinny rail at the rear of the pistol.

I'd like to add a laser sight, preferably a low one with a Dovetail mount that can be mounted in front of (and lower than) the Holosun so as not to block the Holosun view. Also considered ordering a trigger guard with a short (under barrel) Picatinny rail from Gogun.co to hang a laser from. That would work OK but they are quite pricey ~$170US and back ordered as well.

I really like the Crimson Trace lasers with a pressure button built into the hand grips and still own three of them, but none of the CT models appear to fit the contours of the GK1. I recently ordered a 1911-style hand grip frame for the GK1 which accepts 1911 hand grip side panels from rusticindustrialcustoms dot com. It is called the 'Huben GK1 1911 Compact Officer Handle Adapter' and the website says that it 'won't work with laser grips' though. Probably because the CT 1911 laser is mounted high in the grip and would be blocked by the magazine. That's unfortunate. Those Crimson Trace laser grips are pricey but bright and intuitive to use and they don't add any extra bulges to the gun. A low-height laser sight mounted on the Dovetail rail cut into the top of the barrel shroud would prevent me from using the holster I'm using now, but that's not a show stopper as long as the view through the red dot sight isn't obstructed.

At short-range those laser sights are great for quick aiming practice (point to target and then turn on the laser to see how close you got) and so much faster to acquire than a red dot, almost instant acquisition. Those aiming drills are mostly useful in defense in scenarios but still help build muscle memory and accuracy for general use.

As an inexpensive laser sight option on my previous AEA airguns, I used one of those $5 cylindrical laser pointers (6" long x AA battery dia) and set it into the groove between the barrel and air tube. It lined up directly along the barrel and I could turn it on easily (via a little side button on the laser) as I supported the air tank with my left hand. Unfortunately, 3 of my AEA airguns died within a year of purchase and I sold two others as potentially undependable. That was a few years ago and I see that AEA/BinTac have been releasing many new powerful and innovative models since then.

So, any specific advice on a small bright laser model with a remote switch for the GK1?
And/or a way to mount it so that it can be used in conjunction with (not blocking) a Holosun red dot sight?

In the meantime maybe Crimson Trace can recommend something. The wood grips that come with the GK1 are physically large enough to hold an internal Crimson Trace style laser sight.

thanks

JP

All of the scopes I've used for FT range differently at varying temperatures....but they don't have a poi shift.

Mike

There's a rules section that will answer your questions. It's at the very bottom of the AGN home page.

$p00kygH0ST said:

Brother... That is a beautiful gun.

That stock looks self fabricated.
(If not, where did you find it)
The grips as well. I cannot stand the stock that comes on the umarex iteration.

Did you do all the parts yourself? View attachment 519378

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exactly what i said when he posted a picture of his gun a while back. it’s beautiful

During hunting, it is essential to mount your sight onto the Picatinny rail of your firearm. Different types of scopes require different types of clamps for secure attachment. In this article, we will provide a comprehensive guide on the types of clamps for compact digital scopes and the steps to properly install them.​

Picatinny Rail​

1、Definition​

The Picatinny rail is a standardized rail system primarily used on firearms to allow the attachment of various accessories. It is usually positioned on the top, bottom, or side of the firearm.

2、Specifications​

MIL-STD-1913: A U.S. military standard, formally known as Military Standard 1913, commonly referred to as the Picatinny Rail Standard.










Note: PARD's mount is compatible with MIL-STD-1913 rails.

Impact of Picatinny Rail Length on Mount​

Installation Space

The rail length determines the possible mounting range for the mount. A shorter rail may limit ideal mounting positions, affecting the angle and placement of the device. A longer rail provides more options, allowing users to adjust the mount position for optimal stability and shooting posture.

Adjustment Flexibility

A longer rail allows for easier position adjustments of the mount. Users can freely adjust the front-back position based on shooting posture, firearm balance, and required stability for an improved shooting experience. A shorter rail limits adjustment space and may require compromises within a restricted area.

Functions​

Accessory Connection: The Picatinny rail allows the mounting of various sights or accessories, such as scopes, scopes, and flashlights.

Standardized Design: The standardized design of the Picatinny rail ensures high versatility and compatibility with accessories from different manufacturers.

Enhanced Stability: Securing the scope firmly on the Picatinny rail helps ensure it remains stable during shooting, unaffected by recoil, thereby improving shooting accuracy.

Mount​

Definition​

A mount is a clamp that secures the scope to the Picatinny rail using two bolts or pins. It is designed to connect with the Picatinny rail.







Note:

1、The PARD mount is compatible with Picatinny rail widths ranging from 12 to 25.5 mm. The Picatinny rail length should be at least 49 mm.

2、Positioning Pins: Positioning pins are fasteners used for precise positioning and securing of mechanical parts, ensuring accurate relative positioning during assembly and preventing misalignment or movement.

3、Mount and Picatinny rail connection

Types​

Standard Mount: A rail-shaped mount included with screws (M6 size).

Quick-Detach Dual-Pin Mount: MT3 quick-detach rail-shaped mount, available for separate purchase.



Common Features:

Compatible with compact scopes, such as SA/008/Ocelot/NV-S4C/FT/FD.







Differences



Standard Mount: Requires screw tightening each time when the scope is mounted on the Picatinny rail.





Quick-Detach Mount: Once the scope is connected to the mount, it can be attached or removed from the rail in just one second by flipping the lever, making it highly convenient.

Installation Steps (Example: Ocelot)​

（1）Prepare the screws, Allen wrench, mount, and Ocelot device (Compact-shaped scope).

（2）Use the Allen wrench to connect the mount and scope together with the screws.

（3）Tighten the screws with Allen wrench to ensure the mount and scope are securely attached.



（4）Install the mount and scope as a whole onto the Picatinny rail of the firegun.

（5）Tighten the screws on the side of the mount to securely fix it to the Picatinny rail.

AirNGasman said:

What a great photo of The Love Of My Life.

No, I'm not talking about Derrick!

Here's another great photo of her (not so much Derrick). He's said he makes it a point to comb his hair every week or two... whether it needs it or not. Obviously this photo was taken on day 13-1/2.

View attachment 519585

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@AirNGasman He's not just content with murdering your course,leaving with all of your primo custom competition hardware, and top gift certificates. Now we have what appears to be evidence that he's buttering up the love of your life and winning her over. The nerve of that guy!!! Hey Ron, I think you better keep an eye on those two. She may be giving up bits on the inside track or something. The photo in the quoted post above may better explain the photo in post #7.

robertwalsh1981 said:

Thank you for the info, after a bunch of reading/videos on the BRK Ghost I just placed an order for with Tony at Talon Airguns for a Ghost .22 HP with a 0db 160s moderator.

I appreciate the input from everyone that took time to reply.

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You’re going to be very happy! The only bad thing about it is the trigger, it’s very heavy. Franklink has an awesome tutorial how to fix that. Just search for “ghost trigger” and you’ll find it. AEA pellets, 22 and 25gr (and 18gr as well in case you’ll stay within 50yards) and thepelletshop to order them, no need to try anything else (unless you really want to…). Lastly, clean the barrel first thing and deep, it has a coating you want to get out.

i used this, great guide and ended up replacing all orings in my avenge x


just put sub titles on and set to auto translate to get english sub titles

I have found it. I guess I was correct about the grub screw. Number 4 on schematic
Thank you

I corrected it before your last post. Beat you to it.

bdzjlz said:

Very well done. Looks sharp.

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Thanks!

The Hatsan Blitz .30. I kick myself for trading it away on a Garbage AEA.

Yeah thats true. I was curious. I had two Royales in 22 that shot pellets fantastic out to 50 yds or so, but past that things got goofy.

Maybe he died.