Great benefits from shortening the spring. Adjustability and shot count increase. I was not a .177 fan until I got my Akela … and cut the spring. My only cmpl is not having forward cocking handle. That would just be icing on the cake.

I second purple loctite. mine don't fall off anymore.

@Cheplicki I've been waiting to see someone use one of these for turkeys. Thanks for sharing. Some nice looking country up there.

@PureleafTea - Thanks! That was the video I was looking for.

Here is a video of the Target grips. Please subscribe to my channel.

Ssgmac said:

This is probably the most simple and most useful hack I'm going to learn all year. Thanks for sharing. What a difference

Click to expand...

Agreed. Both of My EBAY tanks work Great after learning that trick.

Last chance! Less than 7 hours to go...

I posted the FX Maverick assembly video to show a mistake being made -- to show what NOT to do -- don't tighten screw B down onto the barrel like Ernest did in the video. If screw B has an air tight seal and doesn't interfere with inserting or removing the barrel, then you are good to go -- don't mess with it after that.

stovepipe

delooper said:

While I would appreciate a LRF on all my optics except maybe the red dots, as I'm mostly doing pesting, I could certainly imagine some people don't want them.

If you want a light-weight optic, you'll usually want to shed the LRF which can add quite a bit. So people that hike a considerable distance for their hunts, I could see why some may not want a LRF. Say, if you're using a tree-stand and you already know your shot distance. I also notice a lot of people like having a LRF off the scope, they seem to have come to like the process of LRF during the spotting stage and a dedicated lighter-weight scope on their rifle.

Like a few people in this thread, I use a thermal scope even in day time. There's a lot of pesting situations where it's a fantastic advantage -- like hunting in a shady area. There's so much in the microwave band that isn't available in human eyesight wavelengths.

One far more affordable thing I hope to see in more scopes would be a level-indicator in-scope.

Click to expand...

Interesting POV I did not take into consideration.

I have been using my Thermal monocular and it's been amazing.

For pesting or hunting during the day, I wouldn't see myself using the thermal to hunt with, but rather to spot. Which is why I state Thermal scopes should come with an LRF rather mostly being something optional. You could have a thermal monocular along with a thermal scope when hunting at night, but that's also extra gear.

So in my mind, I'm going to be hiking and traveling, I would think I'd rather have it all in one instead of adding more thing to my pack.

He has a red rider, he just had to shoot pappy’s new gun. And I ordered one yesterday from black hawk

Don't use huma hammers because they are primarily for Maverick. The 13.2 grams Hammer is ideal for dynamic. With it you can use the whole range of pressure settings from 90 bar to 200 bar.
As for the Zan 41 grain slugs, they fly best between 305-310 m/s very accurately. Personally I shoot them from both dynamic 700 and panther 600 at 135 bar on the regulator.
I don't use any slug probe, it's completely unnecessary. Otherwise 40 grain is at .25 low weights. High weights are 50+ grain. 53 grain I shoot at 150 bar on the regulator 285-286 m/s

dgeesaman said:

Thanks for the info. I no longer have the Crown and if I did, I would still be salty about having to buy a different barrel to make the kit work.

David

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Do you still have the bulletcentral carbon shroud? If yes, what length is it?

Did final static leak check by back pressure fill chain from pony tank all the way to water separator on left side of pump at 3k. I had problems with those steel cheap ferules on the top HP “out” on top of pump. Nice and quiet to hear hisses and check all those cheap gauges, mine all within 200 psi. At least my top end clean from last check.

I’m using what’s left of my old bottle of silicone shock oil, stolen from my RC pit crew. LOL, I refuse to use soap and water for bubble check on anything blued so I don’t have to fight getting the residue out or risk corrosion seepage between fittings. Waiting on sale for a bottle of $NOOP, way better than soap and water and non corrosive.

Back to filling later today.

KatoKevin454 said:

Looks better than the Original, I like the Red, White and Blue on it, and that drop block works for me.... got one on a Notos......

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The Huben Power Dream regulators are great, the 20CC plenum helps a lot. I have a 1.1L bottle mounted and with the offset could mount a 2L if I wanted.

What great news, Potpie! Congrats, and thank you for sharing.

Looks and sounds good in there now. It should be a shooter. I've had good success with tapering. It's a llooongggg choke.

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Stubbers said:

(Math, I know, ugh, boring.)

Density values in lb/ft^3
rho_He = 0.1107
rho_Air = 0.0765

35% change in density, 44% increase.

20 fpe to 27 fpe = 29% change, 35% increase.

Close nuff.

-Matt

Click to expand...

You're correct of course Matt. I got lazy about adding a % fpe change column for each pellet since they vary a bit and the spreadsheet would have provided accurate numbers.

A power increase of about 1/3 is probably a reasonable rule-of-thumb on this particular power plant and settings.

My original Helium tests 35+ years ago were done on a multi-shot .25 Career 707 under lever carbine. It had a power wheel and opened up it topped out at about 65 fpe on air and 105fpe on Helium. At an increase of 38% it's still in the same general range as the regulated Notos.

Helium won't always work as well as air in a particular airgun depending on unique aspects of the design and whether a person can also adjust the hammer and valve spring tension when using Helium. For example, a .22 Shortened Huben GK1 produced somewhat higher power on Helium than on air at 3 revolutions of the power bolt, but the pressure dropped so fast with Helium at that setting that all gas leaked out after the 3rd shot - that was not a problem with air. The Huben uses a unique pressure valve though compared to most airguns, so Huben results there don't necessarily reflect on non-Huben designs.

I can't think of any good reason to use Helium in areas where variable-power compressed gas airguns are legal and available. In jurisdictions where rifles are mechanically restricted to 12fpe, using Helium could temporarily raise the shot power to about 16fpe. But they aren't supposed to do it and people already have access to information on the mechanical modifications of most rifles that would result in the same levels of increased power.

JP

BlackICE said:

Here is a 3d print file to mount your GK1 to an ARCA compatible plate, typically used attachment to tripods. The clamp diameter is slightly oversized so that you can put one layer of blue masking tape over the tube so that it won't get marred up after repeated use.

Click to expand...

You are appreciated

SilentSquirrel said:

@tsakula

Here is a link to an eBay vendor that I have purchased from many times
Never a problem & always shipped quickly

Hope this helps

Edward

Air Arms for sale | eBay

Get the best deals for Air Arms at eBay.com. We have a great online selection at the lowest prices with Fast & Free shipping on many items!

www.ebay.com

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ordered one set

Just got these in from rc4fun.

​

These one have slots for ball detents to slide into.

So are you saying your gun
Doesn't cycle when you are empty?
I'm definetly not smoking what your smoking

Fantastic shooting and footage!

Troll account removed. Carry on.

Fantastic shooting! Nice pic! Enjoy your awesome P3