Solved this ages back on several of these DS35 models, set the X &Y to 0 then go through the mag range, if you can see the lazer targeting box in both high and low Mag, there is nothing wrong with the Scope, Its the mounts on the Rifle that are to blame. the Laser pointer stays in exactly the same place, but when you zero the Scope you are effectively moving the picture about to zero, and if that zero setting is on the extremes of the Scopes parameters then you wont see the Targeting Box on High Mag, On the Old Pard 008 every complained about the X hairs not being in the centre of the screen, so when they launched the DS35 models they come up with a different zeroing method, so that the x hairs are always central, But its just image cropping.

I have 2 Notos and a Jet 2 in .177.

I did nothing to the Notos, worked great out of the box.

The Jet had its barrel changed because of the poor accuracy.
The valve stem broke in several hundred shots.
I only bought the Jet 2 because it was on sale and could buy it for about $150, almost a year ago.

The Notos is better all around, not to mention cheaper.

A Notos can be bought new for about $220.
The Hatsan Jet QER is over $300.

.20calguy​

Harold!

Yes, Keith is still making the hand hold for the Sheridan Rifles. I just received mine today and popped them on. They look great!
I now have two of the three Sheridan's in the Classified Forum for sale.
Thanks again!

mike

thammer said:

Any accurate pellet works on squirrels. It's so easy to get a pass through regardless of design you rarely get full potential. Larger game that's a different story.

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This is where something I was reluctant to try seems to work.

A friend made me try them to see if I(my. Guns) like hades/atomic pellets. They seem to do a good job dumping energy while retaining most of their weight and shape and have increased penetration vs my slug choices for that application. They also retain poi and accuracy with popular round nose pellets to a great degree that I had tuned guns for.... Within sane power levels. My favorites for most of my life were crow magnums and later predator polymags if the gun would shoot them.

That said thousands of rodents have met their end with high precision domed pellets. If you can keep your groups tiny with domes, use domes.

My 22 pellet shooter is on regular hades, my 25s are on the sorted fx atomic stuff. My slug gun can digest monster hades but the power level is too high rn to keep them subsonic.

You can poke holes in critters and they die all the same, if you can dump a couple dozen ft lbs into them it works even nicer to anchor them especially when you want to avoid retrieving things from neighbor properties.

Find what your gun shoots precisely, not just accurately and forget the marketing and forum opinions. It took me 30 years to learn that lesson.

I too have a .25 avenger mine likes almost any pellet around 880 to 900 fps. My method is max hammer spring then adjust reg till i get about 8-10% above target speed then back hammer off till desired speed reached. Virtually all pellets grouped sub moa at 50 yards. As for slugs they have a choked barrel and i have not had luck with them. Ive also ported the barrel and transfer port. Ive found over 900 fps i start to get fliers like 3 same hole 2 off a inch

imtrigerhapy said:

I finally made one for my vulcan 3hp .30. I coppied you design principles but made it my own. All the credit goes to hitech for the jump start in the thought process. Thank you Sir

View attachment 534880

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Very nice!

Dr. Kralenstein said:

I've been back charged using pirate ship a couple times. Sometimes their rate is too low and the end delivery service bills PS, and they just take it out of your funding source.

I shipped a rifle stock to California. Gave true measurements and even added a couple pounds to make sure they charged enough, and got an email about a week after delivery saying I had been charged an extra almost 20 bucks for "shipping partner adjustment".

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commifonia...that explains it lol

You are AWSOME! Thanks so much for doing this! A little back story on why I needed someone to do this and not just buy the part from, in this case, Walther. I shoot field target. I picked up a Walther LG400FT rifle in a trade. I got it set up over the summer to shoot the World FT Championship back in November, kind of a bucket list thing for me. I didn’t plan to win. Just go for the experience. The rifle shot amazing all summer. A couple weeks before leaving I noticed my rifle was shooting low. I redid all my sight settings. I chrono’ed my rifle a couple times (in the afternoon when it was warm) and all was good. I started researching about the issue right before leaving for the big match and found this particular rifle is temp sensitive. Sure enough when I got to AZ to shoot the match I found my rifle would shoot in the low 720fps in the morning when it was cold, 760 mid morning when its was warming up, and 785 (where I had it set) when it was the heat of the day. As you can see I had some issues hard to overcome. Luckily the issue is easy to resolve. Remove all the grease off the hammer, install a valve seat out of Delrin, and a harder valve seat o-ring. I tried for more than a month now to find someone in Europe who might be making some (this rifle is used a lot over there) and came up with nothing. A lot of guys in Europe are switching this part out but nobody seems to sell them. So there you go. This was the one part I needed but couldn’t get and had no way to make one. I appreciate the help.

Will a delta/alpha wolf accept a brk ghost barrel kit ? Are the components the same ? I realize you wouldn’t be able to use the chrono feature but just curious if otherwise they were the same.

Thanks.

My dad used to say there is customized and crushtomized. If you trust a mans work then customization has value. But like someone said, you‘re still playing for a smaller audience. The color scheme on the gun is just a distraction. The extra air capacity, which is needed because the gun is being pushed, and the fact you’re getting a gun with tested settings in multiple calibers could be appealing. But I can’t tell you what it’s worth. It’s just another FX.

Hi Guys,

No worries, I understood all you guy's suggestions and tips.
Luckily, I am able to get the gist of stuff quite fast. I really dive deep in to theoreticals and apply them once I fully understand what and why you do stuff in certain ways.

Anyway,

Good news. I did get rid of this issue!

So, Like I said in the OP, I was using a really el cheapo sight, and to be honest, either the rifle was very crooked, which I did not really expect it to be this bad, or the optic was not in whack, which was the most likely scenario.

So this morning, I got myself a Vortex Venom 5-25x56, and here we are. Rifle shoots as a laser, and all it take me to go from 40m to 25m or viceversa, is 4 clicks on the elevation and it is spot on again. No windage deviation anymore!

God, Im so happy this was the issue.
And lets be honest, this rifle deserves better than a sub $100 optic :ashamed:

Thank you for the post.

I see a lot of complaints about the cheek weld on the airforce guns. Look at a lot of the bullpups. E.G. AGT Vulcan 3. I have one and the pic rail isn't any higher than the dove tail on the condor and talon I also own, if it is it's marginal. Now I will agree the radius of the bottle could make a difference to some.

They are a tough little bird. But marginal hits require a .25. But any .177 or .22 to the upper half of their bodies results in head down feet skyward.

If the scope is over a $1k get a set of Seekins rings, also rings are better than a one piece mount as you can place them where you need to on the tube. With good rings, alignment is not a concern. I have 2 $2.5k scopes mounted with Nightforce and Seekins rings.

Like I said the $50 UTG Pro’s are pretty nice and align correctly, no ring marks etc.

Great job Jeff. You and Scott nailed it. That match was as well run as a match could be. I think y’all are ready for nationals in October. Let me know how I can help for nationals (American flag lane stakes?).

Great video!

Kneepit said:

@MACTEN When you’re done with the compressor do you leave the bleed valve open or closed? I thinking leaving it open would be correct to let the condensation evaporate. Am I correct in my thinking?

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Yes the bleed screw is left open. It can be closed but you would have to remember to open it every time you go to use the compressor again so the compressor isn't starting with it closed as that's not good for the thing.

Interestingly enough, I have a scout. Evo and an Epoch… with basically identical setups and regulators… both with identical modifications to the HP reg as well as both with O-ring upgrades and the Epoch shoots better than the EVO

have you even gone so far as to switch regulators, both high and low between guns as well as barrels and saw no difference so I think it has to do with the way the air path is laid out between the 2 guns.
the Epoch has a faster recovery between shots where as the Evo is a bit slower and I need to wait and watch the digital gauge to climb back to range…. About 50-75 psi between shots, so I don’t get a slight POI shift.…. don’t take much in .177 at 19yards.

My next tinker experiment is to take off the on off section where the bottle goes and see if there is any restriction there.….

Mycapt65 said:

Vortek kits don't come with a piston seal. You can include them but they don't automatically come with it. After trying nearly all available piston seals I almost exclusively use the Vortek seals. The exception is when there's comp tube deformation. A thin lipped factory Weihrauch seal is more flexible and will seal better.

I've used both Vortek and ARH kits. I've had good and bad luck with both. Tom at Vortek is just easier to deal with.

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Yep, I stand corrected on the piston seal . It is an easy drop down add-on when buying a Vortek kit, but it does cost extra.
R

Dr. Kralenstein said:

I just need something to help these aging peepers.

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Same boat. I have some pistol scopes with serious magnification. I always turn them down when hunting. My BSA has no gold letters.

Just looked at a pic, it does have painted letters.

They are a fairly simple design. I'm in Cincinnati. I'll do it for you. No problem.

Serpent Arms has a nice 45, I have the shotgun, but considering the 45 as a not so long or heavy option to my pole vaulting length Piledriver.
Made in USA even. https://www.serpentarms.com/product-page/model-550l-45-cal-air-rifle

It’s your valve. Just get a new one. I think we had this discussion before about guns. As they advance, sometimes those advancements come at a price. Yes us balance valve guys are a step ahead of the P1 guys in several areas, but the old school P1 platform has the tried and true PCP engine. Eventually the balance valve engine will be the tried and true PCP when we advance to something else. Maybe.

Threads look "off" to me. Doesn't look like a standard 1/8" bsp OR npt. I'd get another probe with correct & "standardized" threads.