Yes ... from more stress on every seal joint or o-rings under pressure to the stiffer hammer spring and load on trigger mechanics etc ....

boresnake said:

I have spent my time on pre-order lists. Not one ever delivered at a reasonable time. The longer you wait the better the choices become . Times must be good for the manufacturer. I had a prominent airgun dealer hold my $25. deposit for a year. Never happened. Performance is on their part. Let them play their PRE-ORDER games by themselves.

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I got a receipt for my $25 deposit, and it showed up on my bank statement. The rifle showed up eventually as well. Those folks do well by me.

yes i got ya i shot 3 or 4 mags throught it before it quit cycling i snuged up bolt went back to working just fine if it comes lose again then a drop of blue is what i use

Nofilters said:

Rex is a Hall of Famer match director if there ever was one. The breakfast was the best ever, and I am a breakfast-eating connoisseur.
The match was very challenging, and Rex’s taxidermy skills shine in his painting of the face plates. That may be why he has such a great vision for setting the targets and laying out a course. Rex is old school, so he is not a fan of gimme shots. I would put him up as the best match director in the country: just good ole down-home country community and family fun. So, thank you all for volunteering for property, time, and effort. It was worth the 6hr45 minute drive from 2-1/2 hours away. LOL, that is a story for another day.

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I second everything @Nofilters has to say above.

Here's a picture of "about half" of the targets Rex has spent countless hours painting:


But "The Mosquito" is my favorite:

AmericanPitCorsojay said:

Squirrel's lucky I didn't feel like cleaning

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I admire your restraint.

marflow 777 said:

they are just electrical wall plate screws buy a bag of black and never run out
https://www.google.com/search?q=ele...AwCIBgGQBgiSBwM2LjGgB4Me&sclient=gws-wiz-serp

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If memory serves that would be #6-32. For use in the grips it might be worth your time to find an allen drive button head cap screw vs the slotted wall plate option.... Use whichever is convenient and acceptable for you. You posted good info.

MikeAllen said:

I have 20k or so - I shoot a bunch every week but I still may get out the ole FoodSaver just in case!

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We wore out two Food savers. Last year I bought an Avid Armor vac sealer. Worth every penny.

Never thought of sealing pellets. Can’t see it sucking the air out of the tin. On the other hand, the Avid will crush a pop can….a tin should be more stout.

I had the same problem with my Argus 45 years back. But with the cocking lever block. Just...had two full threads holding things together.

The next longer fastener was too long, and didn't feel like shortening a screw already that small, so I used the original fastener, but just made the counter sink deeper. Enough to add a couple of full threads . Working well so far.

Mike

Anyone found a better alternative that will fit the Throne, the STD reg is a bit rubbish.

coastal drifter said:

I agree

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There's 2 schools of thought sort of on hammers and the dwell curve of a slow heavy hammer and that of a fast light one. It's preference. I liked to find a tune that let me run 23gr on bottom and 34gr on top. At least in my situation hammer weight did a better job than spring rate at giving me a new performance window when my reg pressures were high and being used to close the valve as well.


Alas, it's 25 grains and you guys have a really solid point. I get too carried away and I don't remember what a stock hammer was in each version of the gun and what it could do at 130 bar. Obviously (or maybe not) You ease into seeing what the gun can do before you replace deep internal parts.

Looks like the same deal.

Texstever said:

Have a 342 picked some years ago and decided to look into repairing. Not holding air so likely would do a seal repair/replace. Question is the pump arm currently doesn’t stay closed. In other words it doesn’t rest inline with the stock. Will this resolve itself when the seals are replaced of is there another issue causing this?

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I'd definitely fix it. They're nice shooting guns. With the iron sights they make for a good camping/truck gun.

wecome to Airguns Anonymous, you probably won't get much help with your addiction here.

My 600mm Maverick with a 5" mod is 36.5" long and puts out 46.74 fpe at just under 110 bar on the 2nd reg . So a shorter mod would get you close to 34" and wouldn't have a problem with your power requirements either . Mine weighs 6lbs 11oz with a 300cc cf bottle. Its 31.5" long without a mod . It didn't come with a good tune from the factory but with your power requirements it would need to be tuned anyways. My only modification was a heavier hammer weight and is needed for getting 25.3 gr pellets up to speed .

Sorry guys, Going to have to DQ myself from the pistol results.
Found out that my velocity adjust screw had worked its way loose and put me over the 20fpe limit.
Probably why I have been having so many flyers shooting AAFTA matches at ASC.
Paul in NTX
Pablo

I'm interested in the Huben K1, but my biggest issue with that particular airgun is the weak safety feature. I saw on Reddit a post where somebody added a second safety by adding a bolt lock attachment to the magazine. reddit post here
The idea is that the bolt prevents the magazine from rotating when the trigger is pulled. I was thinking I could add a similar system, but I have no experience with hammerless airguns. Could a obstacle hindering the magazine from rotating, damage the airgun if the trigger is pulled? There is no nearer description of this feature in the post. As far as I understand adding a lock to the magazine would at least cost two shots from the magazine, right? (lock + chamber facing barrel)

2fast2furious said:

Well I didn't see anything inside. Was just the cap and spring I think. I was curious what it was since none of my scope had it so i twist it open to see whats in it Lol.

Scope was brand new. I didn't damage it did I? How come some scope have it and others don't? I have like 5 scopes on other guns doesn't have it. But this new scope I order had it. I don't really like how they install it at an angle and it is sticking out.

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If it ain’t broke…..

Cool. Glad to see he's back in business.

Ask Tim about the power-mod for the 1100, too. I watched him do one back in the day.

Cheers,

J~

marflow 777 said:

so, the answer is NO i got an early model 5 with the full grip frame maybe 10+ years ago and i had to get a piston out of Germany to fix mine as it was missing
now if it is a 5G the you would have a better chance
so the model 5 - model 5G - model 5G mag or lp5 all take a different piston
now this is Waffencenter Gotha in Germany the pistons will be listed 5 first, 5G next, and 5G mag
https://www.waffencenter-gotha.de/s...t-mit-Luftkolbenmanschette-DIANA-5::1881.html

https://www.waffencenter-gotha.de/s...-mit-Luftkolbenmanschette-DIANA-5G::1882.html

https://www.waffencenter-gotha.de/s...olben-mit-Dichtung-DIANA-P5-Magnum::7542.html

you will see that Waffencenter is have the early model reproduced and that is something that they do
front seals are the same
it helps for info but not your repair
to get a piston out of Germany would be about 100 euros or say 110.00

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Thanks, I have been checking around other European parts suppliers without success. Sent them an email waiting to hear back.

Tried to get pictures but couldn’t they where in and out quickly nose to ground starting to see rut activity I think our second alternative gun opens this weekend. Texan will be out if it’s open. Side shot phone cam supposed to be here tomorrow. Hopefully I’ll have some video next time.

If I had to choose between my 50 and 95, I would go with the 95.

Hateful McNasty said:

fishing43 said:

rikkochet said:

fishing43 is right, vinegar is a no no.
It will get rid of the rust, but it will also eat into the steel after the rust has gone, and you can't see what it's doing if it's in the barrel.
The only de-rusting chemical I use is Evaporust, it removes iron oxide but does not etch steel.
I recently de-rusted a BSA Cadet barrel with it. I plugged the barrel, filled it it with Evaporust, left it standing upright for twelve hours, then drained it out and checked the bore. Because it did not take much to fill the bore the process had to be repeated five times.
It will remove blueing, as a friend discovered when he used it to remove light rust from a Webley pistol by putting it into a tray and covering it.

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I did some research and you are correct. Good to know about this. Thanks

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I guess you could plug the muzzle and fill the barrel with vinegar over night then scrub out with fine oiled steel wool or brass brush then see if your patches come out cleaner . Maybe do this a couple of times .

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.20calguy said:

I had that issue with a Benjamin Prowler.
I cleaned it and shot copper clad pellets through it until I pulled rust free patches, then it shot and actually shot well!
View attachment 510334
A video of my results.

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Used a 177 nylon bore brush wrapped in AOA degreaser/clp soaked patches, clipped a composite rod and chucked it in a drill and worked the barrel, did the same with a ballistol soaked mop, brushed again, within 15 patches came out clean. Now the sight elevation issue. Used the lowest profile combo I could use with an LPVO, now shooting 1mil low at 15m. So should be good

Hateful McNasty said:

Now them that saying mix the vinegar with baking soda??? I don't get each will neutralize each other so what good is that ? I got a postings on using vinager here somewhere showing how effective it is .. mean rust to shiny.. seems it was a thread on barrel rust or restoring .

As far as pitting.. well depending on the rust it will be the cause of the pitting .

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Yes. Would be pointless. The sodium bicarb would neutralize the acetic acid and be a stinking, pasty white mess with the same cleaning potential of water.

Just musing...

You mostly get what you pay for so take the time to research the best bang for the buck brands and scope lines. You can get very nice scopes for less than $600. But I personally stick to $400 and up as a general rule. I do that because clarity and the general quality of the scope is more assured especially once one has found that ideal zone of desired features in the best bang for the buck scopes.

The lower powered scopes should have thicker reticles if they are FFP scopes and this still applies to SFP when its important to see the reticle in compromised lighting conditions. I go either way so both lower to mid magnification FFP and SFP for hunting and plinking but my favorite so far is Athlon's Helos G2 DMR 2-12x42 which is FFP. I also like Athlon's SFP Heras 4-20x50 which is SFP. These land in that "great value" category.

Usually the higher powered scopes have thinner reticles that more excel for target applications but also crossover to hunting. I only prefer the thinner reticles for target use otherwise not so much.
My favorite in this area is the Helos G2 6-24x56 which is FFP for general purpose as well as some match use.

Contact Nitrocrushr on this forum. If he accepts your job you will have a superb rifle.

22cal, 16g @ 680ft/s vs metal silhouette 27yds