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N/A  Need help with a trigger mechanism

Hi i bought a older bam under lever .22 rifle that has trigger mechanism problems ive stripped and re build it multiple times and still can't get the trigger mechanism to work. Any help to rebuild and get this old girl working again would be very much appreciated. I've rebuild my smk 19 multiple times and had no issues its just this BAM Which I believe is a b4-4 I'm having trouble with. Thank you in advance.

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Decided on a PCP...

I've used Natchez quite a bit, they've always been solid for me.

I've got a couple Donnyfl, I like them, fit/finish is great. I haven't used any of the others on the market.

I'm relatively new to airguns (5yrs), so take the following for what it's worth..my experience is that a good/efficient tune makes a bigger difference than the moderator for sound suppression. If you're tuning it to be a hammer, moderator internal volume is your friend.
Fully agree, the Blitz needs a bigger can. The cyclic rate is crazy high, a 21 round mag dump takes about two seconds. The Ronin does a nice job, along with the built in shrouded barrel design. I've heard of issues running a can on the Blitz, my Blitz works exactly the same W/ or W/O the Ronin. Just quieter. Natchez is a very solid vendor, no worries they are on my good guys list. I ordered my Donny FL items direct.
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Cast slugs

Tony is a customer, and he's already done the homework regarding the condor. What he needs is this mold:


He has already tested the 5.55mm mould necked down to .2165. It provided the best groups with the moulds I have, but the above is better suited for his situation.

I'll acquire the .217 bushing along with this mould in time.

.217 bushing:


I've been waiting for NOE to produce a .217 body bushing since OCT. 2024. It will be a few months more since they are training new staff:

Thanks much

HW/Weihrauch  HW 50 s Finally Broken In

Highly debatable. The mainsprings I've fitted have been a total crapshoot as to how they fit a certain rear guide. Name brand aftermarket springs sold as drop-in replacements can drop onto an OEM guide without any contact. And they definitely buzz. A high-dollar aftermarket spring can be either completely loose, barely good or a perfect fit, and you can't tell until you test 'em. On most of 'em, each end, too, has a different fit. And the airgun factory mainsprings are of a lower quality.

Making a springer mainspring into a specific ID / fit is fantasy.
Well have to agree to disagree. Springs can be made reasonably consistent. Your experience with aftermarket springs is typical of aftermarket springs. Due to the nature of production factory springs while not the best quality are far more consistently sized than aftermarket. Otherwise Tin Bum could never stay in business. Their guides are cut to fit factory springs and for the most part work well for the general consumer. Weihrauch could just as easily make their guides the same size as Tin Bum.

Being involved in automotive and railroad machinery for decades I can assure you springs can be and already are mass produced in exact enough sizes to properly fit a fixed size delrin guide. At least well enough to reduce twang. Plus if anyone could do it, the Germans could. I have no doubts in their engineering ability, only in their motivation. While I agree it won't be addressed. It's not because it couldn't be done at little to no extra production cost. Your pessimism of mass production is simply too broadly applied here.

Barrel loose in the middle after machined at breech

A cast "hard" lap is the best way to relieve a tight spot in a barrel, because it preferentially cuts the tight spot. Rougher grit can be used with a hard lap, but a soft lap such as a tight patch will cut everywhere the lap moves, including where not required.

Soft laps are OK for polishing the whole barrel, but not so good for relieving a short section of tight barrel. For that reason, finer grit should be used with a soft lap, or it will reduce land height and round land corners, rather than preserve the basic shape of the barrel bore. Yes, you can use a soft lap for preferentially removing material from the bore, by applying more strokes in tight areas, but you do not have the control to cut to an even diameter that you have with a hard lap.

Chronograph Madness

My circuit design skills are out of date, but to save power, I wouldn't expect them to try to do the actual time interval measurement in a "processor." A dedicated CMOS interval counter could be clocked at a high rate without having to run everything else that fast. The HT-X3006 sensors are 5.5 cm apart. The specs claim it will measure velocities up to 1219 M/sec (which is nonsense as far as air guns go, as Nate's video points out) to 0.5% accuracy. At 1219 M/sec, it takes ~ 45 microseconds to go 5.5 cm, and you need to measure that to 1 part in 200. That says the minimum clock for the counter is ~ 4.4 MHz if everything else is perfect (like the sensor spacing). That's actually pretty slow by modern circuitry standards. A 10 MHz timer clock would give you more than a factor of two margin. It actually looks like there are "ultra low power" microcontrollers out there that can clock at many 10's of MHz, so maybe the processor can handle it.

Realistically, I think the precision of the sensor spacing is more critical if they don't want to have to calibrate each one. 0.5% of 5.5 cm means the sensors need to be soldered in place to better than around a quarter of a mm. I think a good fixture should be able to do that. I suppose at some point, the accuracy of the location of the semiconductor chip relative to the package would be the limiting factor.
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Tuning  ES, tell me if I'm wrong ... did I miss something?

As others stated I don't stress about that one bit. If it's around 15-20fps spread I'm good with that. Am I a BR shooter? Absolutely not. As a pester I've had no problems shooting out 100yds+. Wind has a larger affect than the ES does so that's what I focus on.
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FX  FX Impact Pump Action Kit

Have one for the M2, its quite fun to operate and well made. Only thing I didn't liked about the quality, was a plastic washer sitting loose in the lever connection to the cocking handle. (I lost it after a week or so in the yard and replaced it by with a segment from a PVC-Tube.)
If one shoots primarily from bench I wouldn't recommend it, its quite bulky and cocking with the pump action isn't to pleasant without a big bi-pod.
I think a cheaper and more flexible alternative to it is a left hand cocking handle if one wants to compete in speed competitions ;)

FX Chronograph V1 vs V2

My V1 has always worked for .177, .22 and .25. Every once in awhile it will miss a shot, like all chronos. I’ve only used it outside.
If I could get a V1 that will work as well as yours, I'd be very happy. Thanks for taking time to comment.

So it seems that this is a case by case basis - depending on one's unit.

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