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Filling with Micro Bore Hose
- By Ranchibi
- Tanks, Pumps, Compressors
- 2 Replies
Micro bore hoses, AirTanksforSale hoses are the best for filling as they don't hold much air being "micro bore" when you bleed it after a fill. A fill hose that is not a micrbore will retain more air before pressure rises and then when bleeding after. Same with using from a tank to fill, hence why Edgun made the Easyfill that you don't bleed. When you bleed a hose after filling from a tank you waste that air 
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HW/Weihrauch HW77K Such a great gun
- By JamieUK
- Traditional Airguns
- 23 Replies
Hi there.
Yes made all the bits at home. It was a 77k with the lever catch so kept it close to the original (just shrouded with a phosphor bronze release button, and English walnut stock). It was then polished/ blacked by a chap called Paul Chell over here n the UK.....
Also modified a Remmi foresight so I could use opens.....not that my eyes really allow for that anymore
Edit- No baffles in the shroud just an end cap (which doubles as the fixing point for the under lever block). Generally don't find you need much volume/ baffles on sub 12 springers
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AEA S45 shot string and a few questions
- By LayeredOgre
- PCP Airguns
- 8 Replies
After a fair bit of looking around I think I found the hammer spring dimensions:
The hammer spring is part #69. 1.7x14.8x146x34. Can anyone make sense of those dimensions?
The hammer spring is part #69. 1.7x14.8x146x34. Can anyone make sense of those dimensions?
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Umarex Notos Accuracy Troubleshooting
- PCP Airguns
- 17 Replies
Alrighty, so it's been a long troublesome journey but I think my Notos is finally performing how it should. In the end I think it was a bad barrel, how lucky I am that there are folks out there like @Firewalker and c88 machining to offer up options to change barrels out!
I am getting much improved accuracy compared to the original barrel, an example can be seen here:
Those are 5 shot groups with JTS 18.1gr domes at 20yd from bags. It may not look like that much of an improvement but from my perspective it feels huge. The consistency is finally there and I feel like I can finally start building my own skill as a shooter.
@nervoustrig commented on it before and it aligns with my experience that the POI shifts between pellets was due to some funkiness in the stock barrel, because what used to be shifts of 6+ inches between pellets has been reduced to fractions of an inch.
I did do one other final mod to try and lock down any potential shift points, I hacked off the forward picatinny plastic. Without the stock moderator holding things in place everything was a little wiggly and having a large lever that could shift my front scope ring seemed bad. Of course this left me with a bare barrel which wouldn't do (especially if I intended to fold everything up and shove it into a backpack), so I kludged together a new foregrip and barrel cover seen here:
and then further kludged it to fit onto my print bed, since I was too cheap to buy a full sized 3D printer:
Here it all is finally together:
Now you may notice my moderator looks a bit silly, that's because while I was waiting for the barrel to arrive (it was late, likely due to fire and ice) I got antsy and bought a plenum from c88 off eBay. Well once the plenum was installed it extended the air tube past the barrel! So I had to modify the moderator to taper so that it would all fit. I was one final modification away from where I ended up.
I've been using a 3d printed moderator found on forums, developed by Subscriber (GTA forums iirc) and it's been working great, however there was no external stop with that design. This meant that with my new barrel I could keep on turning the moderator and it would walk itself right on past the threads (somewhat destroying itself without ever getting 'tight'). So back into my preferred CAD program to add this internal stop:
And so there you have it, a long journey (and several long posts) all pointing to the conclusion that buying cheap means rolling the quality control dice. Thank you to everyone who contributed ideas and helped me along in figuring this all out. Especially @Firewalker , you do excellent work man.
That said I'm gonna be totally lost if you find absolutely nothing wrong with my stock barrel, hah!
I am getting much improved accuracy compared to the original barrel, an example can be seen here:
Those are 5 shot groups with JTS 18.1gr domes at 20yd from bags. It may not look like that much of an improvement but from my perspective it feels huge. The consistency is finally there and I feel like I can finally start building my own skill as a shooter.
@nervoustrig commented on it before and it aligns with my experience that the POI shifts between pellets was due to some funkiness in the stock barrel, because what used to be shifts of 6+ inches between pellets has been reduced to fractions of an inch.
I did do one other final mod to try and lock down any potential shift points, I hacked off the forward picatinny plastic. Without the stock moderator holding things in place everything was a little wiggly and having a large lever that could shift my front scope ring seemed bad. Of course this left me with a bare barrel which wouldn't do (especially if I intended to fold everything up and shove it into a backpack), so I kludged together a new foregrip and barrel cover seen here:
and then further kludged it to fit onto my print bed, since I was too cheap to buy a full sized 3D printer:
Here it all is finally together:
Now you may notice my moderator looks a bit silly, that's because while I was waiting for the barrel to arrive (it was late, likely due to fire and ice) I got antsy and bought a plenum from c88 off eBay. Well once the plenum was installed it extended the air tube past the barrel! So I had to modify the moderator to taper so that it would all fit. I was one final modification away from where I ended up.
I've been using a 3d printed moderator found on forums, developed by Subscriber (GTA forums iirc) and it's been working great, however there was no external stop with that design. This meant that with my new barrel I could keep on turning the moderator and it would walk itself right on past the threads (somewhat destroying itself without ever getting 'tight'). So back into my preferred CAD program to add this internal stop:
And so there you have it, a long journey (and several long posts) all pointing to the conclusion that buying cheap means rolling the quality control dice. Thank you to everyone who contributed ideas and helped me along in figuring this all out. Especially @Firewalker , you do excellent work man.
That said I'm gonna be totally lost if you find absolutely nothing wrong with my stock barrel, hah!
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RWS Did i find a gem ? Rws 38
- By patrikky
- Traditional Airguns
- 17 Replies
That explains a lot. I was under the impression that all 38s were walnut like mine. However your post explaining there were beech 38s sold explains why I have seen a few with beech and that the stock was not replaced at some point. ThanksThe 38s were produced in at least 2 different stock shapes (as mentioned and pictured above); and the slim stock was produced in 'walnut stained' beech, and actual walnut.
Having wanted a walnut-stocked 38 for years, I finally purchased a beech-stocked one in the heavier profile. I liked it enough to not only install a Maccari spring and piston seal, but also chop the barrel shorter and add an alloy muzzle weight (to complete the aesthetics, more than any other reason). Now I really love it!
View attachment 527342
Lovely Di is a pretty strong shooter, and very accurate. Doing almost all my sproinger shooting from the Hunter Field Target position (from stool and bipod), she groups as well as any of my other nice sproingers (.22 Air Arms Pro Sport, .22 Beeman R-9, .177 HW77K, and FWB 124; all but the PS with aftermarket springs). I get consistent 3/4" to 1" five-shot groups at 50 yards, regular as clockwork. Here are my testing notes on Lovely Di-
8.4 grain FX, with Maccari spring and seal, 20 shot string- Low= 861, High= 872, ES= 11, SD= 3, Avg= 865 FPS/14.0 FPE
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Tuning Sorting FX Pellets
- By superduty250
- PCP Airguns
- 8 Replies
I just did a full tank string of 120 shots using the sorted FX 25.4 25 caliber pellets. The first 91 were all the 25.2 weight group and the rest were the 25.1 group. Wow, what a difference I am no longer disappointed with the consistency of this 910 fps tune! I've attached a chart of the whole string, the first 100 shots and the first 30 shots. looks like bottle pressure started going below the regulator setting around 100 shots. I shot it all the was down to about 105 bar bottle pressure. I am still only shooting to get the fps consistent for the tune. It's too cold and snowy right now to shoot outside. I am really curious to see how the low ep and std relate to accuracy. Steve AEAC said 910 fps was a good speed for these pellets in the 25cal Avenge-X so I am hopeful.
Can you solve it?
- By lee5euk
- Industry News
- 46 Replies
16 for sureView attachment 527184
FX Airguns Dynamic Compact PCP Air Rifle | Pyramyd AIR
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Killer Instinct Fatal-X Crossbow | Pyramyd AIR
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Umarex Gauntlet 2 SL PCP Air Rifle | Pyramyd AIR
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Talon Tunes is now Talon Airguns!
- By RobHales
- Industry News
- 6 Replies
Same great products > more comprehensive name!
View attachment 527166
Home - TalonAirguns
talonairguns.com
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