Probably would be a good idea to find a thin rubber bladder or something of the correct size to keep moisture out if that is a concern. Not a light thin balloon or prophylactic but heavier like a punching bag balloon material maybe a cut off section of bicycle intertube so it can stretch as needed have it fit inside the rest?

Or maybe the right sized gel (not foam) filled stress ball that can fit inside a favorite rest?

I have not tried it but maybe just simple plastic bag of the correct size will be enough.


Allen

Ricklin said:

Just barely cracking the valve will not work at all, please do not try. A pressure regulator is required. A valve can only control pressure if airflow is occurring. Either fill the air bottle only to your guns maximum PSI or add a pressure regulator to the air bottle.

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When i was talking about "just barely cracking the valve" I did mean once I had the Dream Valve and 4500 psi bottle added, thanks for the warning.

The cheap ebay fill whip arrived and I've been filling the stock air tank off my 30min bottle no problems!

I'm still waiting on the Dream Valve. Takes a long time!

That rest is ridiculously expensive!
did you google the most expensive rest available?
Many rest are available for 1/5 the cost of that one ..which seems rather bland

Here is a front rest that i have purchased this year.
This is the 1st year of this rest bieng offered and it is incredible...the quality is 1st class and the price is economy
This one is made by a top maker of F-class front rests ( SEB) son Christopher
You have to be on a list for a year to get one of SEB's rests ...Christophers' rests are in stock for delivery
I wasn't suprised to see several of them at this years EBR


here is a link to the site

Mike

Read the forum rules re: new members "probation" period. 10 meaningful posts/10 days(?) before you can PM someone. You can GET PM's but not SEND any yet. Aggravating to some but helps with scammers. Lot of people WARY of dealing with a person who has no history of transactions or reputation too. CYA (Cover Yer Arse) baby! Don't take it personally. You can always post with their names in the title too if you desire contact.

You can strip with baking soda really well. Especially down in the checkering. They make little airbrush blasters that do insanely good stripping in tiny places. If you get the media and pressure right it's very aggressive on the finish but hardly touches the wood. You can easily take out any blasting marks with 320 grit with a quick once over.

The soda blasters are cheap (harbor freight) and do a great job at a lot of things from erasing graffiti to headlight lenses. It won't raise the grain on wood at all if your careful.

Eastwood has little airbrush size blasters that can be used with a template for texturing and etching with Silicon or ceramic media too.

I have a .177 Hatsan Jet 2.
I placed an M4 washer on the valve stem.
The washer will restrict the air flow.
It will give you lower power but a longer and flatter shot string.

Uglyjohn said:

From what I read on the Brit airgun sites, even they have a hard time getting hold of him. Beautiful work though! Uj

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True and true

Impact701 said:

This is what I use

TJ3 Dual Gauge Valve - TopGun-Airguns

The absolute best Dual gauge valve system for your airtank. With the TJ3 Dual Gauge system, you have the main glycerin filled gauge (2.5″on 7/8″ & M18 thread and 2″ on the 5/8″) that reads out clearly and accurately the air going into your gun’s airtank. The 1.7″ dial gauge shows the air...

www.topgun-airguns.com

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I have a TJ3 that I just bought a month later the large gauge blew out the oil plug no clue why I called them and that evening they had a new one on the way no complaints about there service

mattitude138 said:

Just got the new notos from Pyramyd. works like a charm! Thanks for the advice guys.

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We live for numbers and pictures. How much distance can you get, 20' is nothing, barely 7 yards. Good enough to make sure the scope is on right, imho.

DeanB said:

Easy would be 5 minutes, a pain in the A@# is 25 minutes. You have to do more to swap cocking lever then you do to tune the gun or at least adjust reg up/hammer spring.

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I guess it's all relative. I was just saying there are a lot more complicated tasks with airguns than this. Adjusting the reg takes more time if you do it right as you'll likely be taking the reg out at least a few times while tuning.

The small o-ring on the exposed end of the regulator is a real challenge to put back on -it did stop the leak around the regulator threads but I had to make a little tool to slide the o-ring onto the end of the regulator. The o-ring was in the kit that came with the gun.

My gun started leaking worse and worse after about 1000 rounds and I am going through it but not having much success - many of the o-rings in the gun are dried out, nearly square and break into pieces when you try to remove them.

Its leaking into the barrel at this point and I think that's the last leak - probably the poppet valve - should have just changed it when it was apart but it looked ok. Lots of the screws look like they were damaged with too small screwdrivers - I'm wondering if Theis we even a new gun at this point.

I also had it blow a burst disk at about 3800 PSI - waiting for replacements -

JakeRico said:

Wow that Plenum is huge. Glad to see Huma was able to fabricate the proper parts for you and looking forward to your results.

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So far, I got the 21gr Javelin slugs moving at 881fps with the reg at 135b, I think I can push it harder, but my chrono isn't working the best. It's been ready 70% of the shots more often than not. And I don't know why, so I'm giving it a break for now.

Had a similar problem with my new Fac Mk4 Impact. The first shot is always 20 to 25 FPS slower than the rest of the string. Throws all of the performance figures out of the window! Take it out and the standard deviation is always 5 to 8 FPS, which is excellent. AND that first shot drop in FPS made not a scrap of difference in accuracy at my 43 metre zero set up. IMHO don't go chasing the figures unless they are excessive. I understand FX are looking to resolve this first shot problem asap.

I think I read somewhere “take some closed cell foam insulation (for insulating water pipes) cut into strips that fit tightly between the baffles in the moderator”. They would have fit tightly but don’t try to go for a “world record” to see how much insulation you can stuff into a moderator.

Gerry52 said:

Did you go to FX Airguns, click on SUPPORT, go to diagrams/drawings & click Panthera? Might help. Trigger shouldn't have to be "reset" during 1st stage. Spring should reset Trigger blade just by letting go.

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Yes, I did. They only show parts diagrams. They don't show how the parts work together. What I'm trying to get is a drawing of the parts in a gun to see how the mechanism works. I also sent a email to them asking if they have a drawing showing the parts in the gun showing how they work. This is going to be difficult one. Thank you for the response.

Last Saturday, David Read and I shot a field target match hosted by the Largo Salado (Dry Lake) Field Target Club. The club’s spark plug is Chris Ruano, and he did a wonderful job setting up and running the match. Dave and I drove down from Pocatello, Idaho the morning of the match and it was well worth the 2 ½ hour drive, and the Salt Lake traffic, to get there.

Largo Salado is a new club, 2024 is their second year. They have come a long way from start up to the quality match that we saw. They will close for the winter, it gets cold here, but if you are with in striking distance of the Salt Lake airport you owe it to yourself to take in one of their matches next year. I know I will. There are a few targets with which I have a score to settle.

The Largo Salado Field Target Club held the match at the Lee Kay Public Shooting Range. Lee Kay is new and operated by the Utah Division of Wildlife Resources. It is so new that it does not show up on many satellite photos. So, go to their site to have a good look.

Ron

great post !

Vetmx said:

I have Airmax SF 30 scopes and the 3-16 S-tac. The Hawkes are good. I don’t like the short eye relief on my 12x Hawke. I like the S-tac just a little more but the reticle gets a little tough to see in low light. With the Hawkes I can just illuminate them. If you are always shooting in good light then go with the Sightron. If not, I think the Hawke might suit you just fine. And save some coin.

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They have illuminated S-Tacs as well

I have to agree, I didn't see any airgun related sales worth buying.

Ezana4CE said:

@Devink I forgot to ask, which digital scope are you using in the video?

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Its a dnt zulus 3-12 Not a good example though because of lighting and it is cropped. it looks much better in person.

Thank you Mike, Rod, Dave, Brian, Troy, Trevor and anyone else I may be forgetting who made this season possible.
Wind on the competition range is always tricky, but the 50 yard pistol range was insane. I had a great time and if time permits we should have one more FT shooter hooked.

See you soon.

Gunnertrones said:

Sure you dont mix it up with the Burris 2-7?

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? Maybe?

Appreciate everyone's input!
Tomorrow I'll be knocking off early to pick up my new 98!


And some pvc pipe and sandpaper

Ya. Go to a tool store and grab this then you can check yours

https://www.amazon.com/ChgImposs-Im...731327417&s=industrial&sr=1-3&ts_id=256422011

I was still looking on that guide thread sizing ..lol. Still nothing

I guess if they tell you they'll have to kill you before you can spill the beans

It seems like the air gauge is stuck. I filled up the rifle and it fired. I want to replace the gauge but I don't know what types of threads it would take?