Can anyone tell me the outside diameter of the Sharp pan target barrel please.

GregGeis said:

Thanks! I’m just wanting accuracy out of this one and a good shot count would be welcome. I have an Avenge-X .22 coming for higher power tunes and tinkering. How do you know when your hammer spring is too strong for your valve? If I tune it at 3,000 psi and shoot it to 2,000 does it start making a noise when it doesn’t have enough push back?

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Your valve is different and may have a lower sweet spot. As for knowing about the spring tune, a chrono for monitoring diminishing returns and an ear out for a change in noise that is a little more poof than in used to be. That's the best advice I have. Sorry it involves a bit of tribal knowledge and feel. Your preference in tune is important too. I had to make the best of what I had on a full fill with mine being 25. As simply put as I can, I basically watch the chronograph and adjust things till i can achieve a happy middle ground of accuracy, noise, velocity, and efficiency is a function of those things sort of. Certain characteristics walk hand in hand from my 7 ft lb crosmans to my 70 ft lb fx stuff, efficiency tends to come with accuracy and low noise. Lmk how it goes

I just sold some of these to a gauntlet owner last week. Awaiting feedback:

Congratulations, nice buck

I have an Air Ranger and have found I get the highest acuracy with the single shot tray, or the Rowan loader above. I have never figured out why, but the mags are just not as accurate - OK, but not as good. The CARM mag works about the best, despite being the cheapest of all the iterations I have tried - and I tried them all . . . (but not the Canadian one - they don't list compatability with the Air Ranger).

They're excellent. First, though, they don't actually track your aim, just your movement. They're first rate at that, and used well, they *will* improve your shooting. Like any other tool, it's up to you to use it well. They will not teach you to shoot. If your fundamntals are poor, you'll just be learning how to improve fundamentally poor practices.

The coaching is well, a "hint" - don't take it too literally. It's a guess based on what you're doing. If you're a rank amateur, the guess is more likely correct than it is if you're fairly advanced. Check out the guidance, but exercise discretion and don't take it to heart if it doesn't seem to ring true.

Interesting side note: I've watched a half dozen reviews (including some from shooters I respect) that really haven't used these. They took it out of the box, hooked it up, and fired a few rounds - then made a video about it. Those folks have missed out, and so have their viewers. Deliberate practice with the Mantis is enlightening. Trying it a few times is ... well, ... nothing.

I'm firmly in the pro-mantis camp.

GsT

Edit: I was going to mention the (much more expensive) Scatt system, which does track your aim as well as your movement. Another great tool (rifle only), with its own limitations. They're made in Russia, so they were unavailable for awhile, I haven't looked to see the status today. These are in the tool kit of nearly every olympic rifle team.

klentz said:

You may have more luck in answers to your questions about your Schimel by posting your questions on the American Airgun Vintage foru.

American Vintage Airguns

American Vintage Airguns-

www.tapatalk.com

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Just looked at link. Very cool! Some are pre-vintage, almost Paleolithic

Nice idea!

From Google search: The Daisy V/L was the first production rifle for caseless ammunition. It was released in 1968 by Daisy Outdoor Products.
In 1961, Cass Hough, the president of Daisy Heddon division of Victor Comptometer, purchased the design of a new firearm system. The new system was developed by a Belgian chemist named Jules Van Langenhover. The new gun would be known as the Daisy V/L rifle....

Caseless ammo firearm is not an AIRGUN.

Thanks everyone

FYI it was only slightly bigger than the Holosun, so rather compact. It lets you change the battery without changing zero, which is always a plus. I might buy it for my PP700SA. Found it on Amazon. Votatu RMD502-R. 1 MOA red dot with a Picatinny mount.

As an owner of .25 & .30 guns I don't mind the extra cost of the .30. It's far more dependable at long range in "sketchy" conditions but I mainly hunt, not target shooting so I'm only going through 30-40 pellets average on a typical outing.

Gun arrived the other day. After reading posts here, watching videos, and reading on Reddit. I was pretty confident this gun would be a good value and punch above it's price point.

MA2 standard .25

Saw allot of people talking about the stock being flimsy. Honestly so much chatter about it nearly passed on it.

I'm so glad I didn't!!

The front lower mount is not best out there. But for me it's definitely not as bad as some have made it sound. One video made it look like hot rubber. First thing I did was mount a bi-pod and see if that was the case. And it took reasonable effort to get it to move around half as much as some video showed.

So unless im flinging my gun about like a mad man while mounted. It stayed plenty sturdy for me and didn't harm shots or accuracy at all.

When handling and treating the gun as I would any other gun, I never once noticed the stock.

Essentially if I wanted it to flex I had to make it do it. But I added two tiny tiny rubber chucks anyway. And pretty much zero movement.

In conclusion TO ME, some of the talk about the stock is overblown. I'm glad I didn't let it effect my purchase because it's an awesome experience right out the box.

The gun absolutely out performed my initial expectations of a gun at that price point.

Sorry for any grammatical errors. Long fingers small phone life.

beerthief said:

Hmmm ? maybe that cut stock is a secret hiding place for gold doubloon's ? I would keep it as original as possible . just get it working right and enjoy .

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Its a really nice piece of wood, and has some nice character.

I'll get that for you tonight when I get in the shop.

When you replace the o-rings do not tighten as if you are Rambo.
Finger tight and 1/4 turn more..

Airgun Al said:

Im not any help, however my 2nd PCP ever, was a unregulated .22 Evanix AR6 as I recall, about 20 years ago.
Accurate, inexpensive, powerful and well built it was, however, it was so loud, one might as well be shooting a powder burner!
I did not own it very long, and never disassembled it.

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One exactly like yours was my first PCP many years ago. Still working perfectly.

Bad News Beeman said:

I'm so frustrated by this. The fact that you can't even buy parts drives me up a wall.

Has anyone here in CA tried selling an AG recently? Were there any restrictions from the seller's side as well?

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There are states you cannot ship to as they consider air guns the same as firearms, and I dont think ebay allows anything over 25Cal. There are probably other additional restrictions too.

And thanks bdpappy for starting this thread. I learned a lot from it.

I think a decent manual that illustrates and explains tasks nearly everybody will do plus parts availability at reasonable prices and lead times is the minimum and a lot of airguns fall short. If most issues were not solvable with an o-ring and/or silicone grease I would have been in trouble many times. Crosmans parts process is different with requiring a phone call but it worked well when I needed it.

With respect to overseas calls my tip is to get your phone on wifi and make the call. I've done it several times and never paid more than a dollar. The call goes over the internet so you bypass the steep charges.

Good work.
I shot a buck at 80yds opening morning and two does Sunday evening. Buck didn't have a clue what happened when he got hit, jumped and ran for about 20 yards, stopped for maybe 10 seconds then tipped over. Used Panthera 35 cal with 108gr NSA at 950ish. Has 800mm barrel and a Emperor so it's very quiet. One doe was at 20 yards looking at me so it heard the shot, ran 50 yards stopped for a few seconds then ran another 50 and died. The other deer with her, 8 total, had no idea what happened and two of them went over to check on her then left after a bit while the rest were waiting around also about a 100 yards from me.

Cold air is dry. Warm air holds water. Cold surfaces condense water from warm air.

You don't have to seal the pellets to warm them. They are inside the tins. The warm moist air condenses on the outside of the tin. The air inside is dry and cold. If there is any moisture in there it's frozen and it was in there to begin with.

Same with a scope. You leave your gun in the cold at night so it dosent fog in the morning. Scopes equalize slowly due to the dead airspace inside. When the lenses are the same temp as the air things clear up. Breathe on the cold glass and it works in reverse. It's vapor moisture equalizing with temperature.

wijib said:

John, you certainly out did yourself on this article. Very informative and the guns are, as usual, very fine examples of a collectible breed.

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Bill
Thanks for reading it and sharing. So many older variations of popular guns are out there that newer shooters are uninformed about. I'm hoping to spread the word.

SHOW PICTURES. If you're asking for help diagnosing something we need to SEE it so relevant info can be given.

Also curious if they have a .177 version of this gun?