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Benjamin  This is a bullpup. There are many like it, but this one is mine.

The sear spring is giving me an issue. It won't engage now when at level, only if I point it down. Good thing I know a guy who can fix it! I think it needs to be just a smidge longer. It's super light pull too, so that'll add a couple ounces back to the trigger which is a good thing because it's slightly unpredictable ATM.

Very Tempting, but

Kind of like all of those posting as they wonder why they can't post in classified section, too impatient to give a bit to the forum yet unaware that their odds of selling a fairly high priced item on a forum to people they don't know, basically using the honor system, are low and will make the wait for classified access seem like a nanosecond.

HW/Weihrauch  No. #2 HW30 strip down.

What you experienced with your R7s is what usually happens. It's annoying for a while then smooths out when the parts mate. The Hw30 I bought for my friend will probably end up the same way. Well, unless he notices and asks for help.

As far as preemptive work. DO NOT use a dremel. At least on the long part of the cocking arm. Dremels and similar rotary tools are quick way to get sloppy results. Being a mechanic and machinist by trade I have excellent hand control. I spent many hours in my racing days porting cylinder heads and intake manifolds with rotary tools and never could get a perfectly straight surface with them. You want long straight smooth surfaces not the long wavy surfaces rotary tools leave behind. It's not super critical and I guess a dremel can do the job. It just wouldn't be pretty and proper enough for me. Once metal is removed you can't easily put it back.

The best method I've found for those long sharp edges on is pushing a fine metal file along the full length. Then I lengthwise block sand the edges smooth with 240 wet dry. They don't need to be polished as much as rounded and smooth. They don't have to be rounded much either. Just enough not to cut.


The front section of the cocking arm is two stampings riveted between the folded rear stamping. That joint is usually tight and should be exercised as I belive I already posted. Inspect the top of the joint for sharp points on the two center pieces. You'll often see marks in the comp tube that match these points. Here a sanding roll on a dremel can be used to round any large sharp points on the forward link. After that I'll open that joint all the way and block sand the radius of the entire back of the joint.

In extreme cases where the gun has been used alot the galling on the comp tube can get furry and have slightly raised edges on the scoring. Assuming you bothered to just do the process above, you should remove the high points in the scoring to prevent them from making a new wear pattern or breaking off and getting in the gun.

Parallel the comp tube galling with masking tape to protect unaffected areas and block sand across the scoring. It won't look pretty as you'll loose some bluing but it will function better. The area isn't visible with the gun all together and gets coated with moly grease when done so there's no real corrosion issues to be worried about.

With all this filing and sanding its critical you thoroughly wash all the pieces involved. Filings carried by grease can get embedded in the worst places and cause you far worse problems than you just fixed.

Overall, this is a little bit of work but I helps give piece mind and smooths the gun sooner. It's worth doing if you'll already have the gun apart or it's a particularly rough sounding rifle.

HTH
Ron
Super helpful, thanks, and I'll do as you suggest 👍
R

Skout  You guys have it made in the US!

I'd be very curious to hear your conclusion. When I bought my EVO, it was down to those two. And I'm still considering getting the Alpha Wolf Sapphire...
I must admit that I had accuracy problems with the AW when I got it a year ago, but I sorted it myself after getting nowhere with DS (maybe I am fated when it comes to manufacture help) anyway IMO the AW is far more suited to unrestricted power as the software for sub 12 is abysmal and lacks a lot of settings, but I have mine configured so I can set pellet weight and power but obviously sub 12 but it much better that way, but I do like the gun, but it did take me a while to get used to it being the first bull pup I have owned and found it a bit hold sensitive, I have since took on a Reximex Throne project and that is far better as far as accuracy is concerned but like I said I find it easier to shoot well.

I will keep you posted on my thoughts about the comparison when I get the Epoch which I am looking forward to as I have wanted one ever since they came out, and love the technology, but price made it not an option at the time I bought the AW or the outcome would have been quite different.

N/A  New Guns from Krale received.

Yeah Ron, I’ve purchased 4 airguns in the last month - two from Krale and two from AOA.
Krale is simply the best distributor of Weihrauch guns there is.

AOA does a good job of supplying things like Walnut/laminated stocks and stainless alternatives the European market doesn’t hold in high regard or consider essential.
Their Christmas specials are very sweet too!

The idea for me was to sell my HW35E and HW50S in stainless, but now I’m having a hard time parting with them :unsure:.

I’ve got 4 HW 35E’s now - kinda like you with HW30’s ;) .
Buy a 95 in stainless to add to your collection 😎
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Daisy  New Daisy 747 "Rebuild Parts Kit" question

I did a bunch of rebuilds a couple of years ago.. I got the kits from an ebay vendor and have been pleased. I cannot remember what the o ring material was, but instead of a foam washer for oil, it uses a bunch of teflon split rings, something like 5 or 7, cannot remember, that go in the groove where the foam washer was. They remind me of piston rings in and internal combustion engine, the space between the rings tend to hold enough oil to wipe the inside of the cylinder

Just looked, and this looks like the kit I used, but it was not nearly that expensive.

To answer your question, I am pleased. They have been in the guns 2-2 1/2 years with no problems. Now I must say that they have not seen a lot of use as I have so many other guns that nothing I have gets shot that much. I did clean and then checked everywhere the rings, & o rings contacted to make sure that there were no burrs anywhere and also completely degreased and relubed the trigger mechanism, fresh lube on it seemed to help the trigger pull

How to measure "clear glass"

Leupold, Nikon upper Hawke, Sightron: Look for Japanese glass first. If it is not European, look for Chinese upper glass made for USA companies.
Bushnell Elite, my best tip is this: If you like a certain scope,do some research on it. I also want a scope with AO so I can shoot at shorter distances.
Upper-class glass has a better coating on the lens, which requires more steps, which is another reason they costs more.
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Scope Prices

There probably going to start moving to a new 3ed world cheap adversity country like Vietnam . I see more and more things not china lately . I guess it's time to make rich another so called " enemy country" with our cash flow ..lol. Like we hate and dislike China so much we try to drown then with sending them our wealth .. g0d bless America.. lol
I'm seeing a lot of products made in Vietnam these days-shoes, clothing, furniture, etc. I think the Vietnamese pay more attention to quality than the Chinese.

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