Got my Mod65 today. Plenty to diss, but nothing bad. Overall the metals on the scope and one of the Monte Carlo rest's screws show bare metal... a grip on the scope is pretty hideous because of it.
I personally love the gun already, flaws and all. Lots to love. Anyways, I'm onto modding mine into a Dr. Jekyl Mr. Hyde. I have some good Ideas, but being a springer is got some limits. To start things off, I went to the Dollar Store and grabbed some ladies leggings, 2 sizes, and fitted 4 of them over this to make it A) protected somewhat and B) stealthy. These type of legging seem to absorb light, thanks to their transparency which seem let light in but trap it. Not exactly NASA material but it does a good job. I have other mods to show off when they're installed. I'm curious to see what else people have done to their 65s.

I kinda like how this just looks like a mystery gun now. Sorry for the poor lighting but its just a black silouette in any light.

View attachment 518548

It would be neat to shoot them and see how they stack up with current pellets.

If it's the brass piston type polishing this can be of slight benefit, but polishing Bellville washers does very little and it's only the bearing surfaces that can be polished.

10-4, thank you!!

jkingrph said:

At least one other thing, The cocking lever on the 777 is machined steel vs stamped aluminum on the lower grades. I know the trigger on the 777 is adjustable, not so on the 717 and simply cannot remember about the 747.

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Yes, I'm aware of the differences, and I have held one, but never shot it. I'm not sure, about the triggers adjustability, but I don't need any adjusment on the 717 or 747 they are both good and identical in feel.

If you are interested and would like to go. Email me ASAP at garrettKQ at gmail dot com if you haven't already emailed Greg. This event is expected to fill nearly instantly in January. Be ready to commit to going financially when I send you the detailed entry instructions in the next couple of weeks. Remember, this is nonrefundable if you get in, so firm commitments are needed.
With the numbers we have now, it is anticipated everyone can go.

FEES:

• The Entry Fee is $260 USD. This includes the Closing Ceremony meal for the competitor.
• Each additional Awards Ceremony ticket is $65 USD

Theman406 said:

It is a dowty washer, airguns of Arizona has them or huma air

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Thanks!

I'll try to do that jcalvert. I'm glad you found the thread useful. I did too! There are many helpful people on this site, with a lot of experience. So far the avenger seems really accurate and easy to use but I am not in love without it feels. Maybe a wood stock would help ... It was also a lot more fun to me to buy a used gun from an individual here than a new one from Pyramyd, though I was not opposed to that option.

Long_Shot said:

Is this close to what you want?
You got one finally.

View attachment 518539

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Yes sir. Thank you. This is exactly what I was looking for.

Last weekend (12-7-24) for guaranteed delivery by Christmas.​

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internal server error - this site won't let me upload the jpegs - sorry. Anyhow lol trust me - the suit looks SWEET!

I resealed an identical Airhog valve like yours for a friend a few years ago. If you take a crescent wrench and unscrew the square behind the threads there is a rubber o ring behind it that seals the assembly. Replace it and you'll be good to go. No need to trash a perfectly good valve. Also, DO NOT submerge the valve unless you want to permanently fog up the gauge.

Airhog went out of business over a year ago. I bought some of his parts when he was clearancing them out cheap cheap.

Instead of starting a new thread for the 177 DRS owners, maybe we can make this sn info thread. Lots of info on 22 caliber in the main thread but little in 177

I got my drs Saturday, 600mm classic. Came from Utah Air with the inspection sticker saying 10.3 gr at 900fps. Been too cold here to do any real testing, but 10gr h&n slugs were grouping 6 to 8 inch at 30 yards. Switched to 10.65 gr baracudas and grouping about 2 to 3 inches at 30 yards. This was all from standing, so I am happy until I put it to paper and do some tuning

It's 10 MEANINGFUL posts

Zack! Glad you found and hopefully fixed the leak!

Very very nice find

Ok graphic images ahead


Pellet went in left front shoulder and road around and the rib cage, under to the right side and then entered thru abdominal wall and popped out the right leg hip area.



Never entered the vitals, even at 28 fpe from 10 yards.

This is where it should've came thru the rib cage. Left lung and heart are intact.




Crazy to think it didn't even punch thru the ribs.

The right lung was hit one the second kill shot. Looks like I clipped the top of the heart as well, but hard to tell.

I just bought the Hawke Sidewinder 4-16x50 ffp moa at Camera Land on sale(back ordered though). I hope it works out for me, we’ll see.

The Athlon Helos 4-20x50 ffp is on sale to, along with most Athlons.

HogKiller said:

Short answer is, it won't hurt. I've got two Mavs, a 600mm (.22) and a 700mm (.25) One is glued, epoxy, one is 'floating'. Zero difference in efficiency, but....better than a plain soda straw. As long as it's a really good slip fit it'll stabilize the soda straw. AND it's REALLY sensitive to how loose or tight the lock nut is.

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You’ve always helped me out, I just didn’t want to somehow make it worse by not tightening it correctly.

beerthief said:

Still the same fiddley extra piece fill adaptor that we have to buy and change . I have a 510 and misplaced the adaptor so gun is useless till i find it .

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beerthief said:

Still the same fiddley extra piece fill adaptor that we have to buy and change . I have a 510 and misplaced the adaptor so gun is useless till i find it .

Click to expand...

If you can’t find it, I have extra as all my AA’s are now foster QD.

rangur1 said:

I guess the debate is what is really needed for a task, with exceptions always occurring. Or using overkill and risking collateral damage. This is the balance we all seek.
For the post to be the most beneficial, responses should try to stay objective. We all have had “exceptions “ but they’re really not the norm. It’s too easy for the thread to trail off into the weeds.

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Looks like your thread is becoming a safety meeting. Common sense, know whats behind your target.
I thought overkill is making a Starling explode into pieces, from a moderately powered .22 or .25 cal. slug.

Projectiles, purpose? Necessity?​

I don't shoot pellets anymore, so I won't make any reference to them.
Projectile type makes the difference. No matter the cal. or game, the proper projectile is the key "necessity" for a given "purpose".
Large caliber for big game ( Hog, Deer, Bear ) require a more controlled expansion and deeper penetration from the projectile.

Small game/pests ( Rabbit, Squirrel, Pigeon, Starling ) need energy dump fast, not penetration.
Most typical .22 or .25 cal. HP slugs shot at 50 Ft-lbs. or more will have too much penetration. Verified by testing them.
Yet a small .22 cal. 22gr. @ 780 FPS 30 Ft-lbs. can be very effective because of slug type. Even at 100 yards.
I'm not saying that a HP slug won't dispatch a pest. Just that the right type slug can work better for the purpose.

Here's a few old photos that show what can be accomplished with a purpose made slug.....



These HP slugs didn't dump much of the available energy. Still going over 500 FPS.

2" gel. is actually slightly denser than the small pests we typically shoot.



Starling cadaver shot with a slow 750 FPS .25 cal. 38gr. fragmenting slug.

If you look at the data for "low power" sheet all the shots were at one TP setting and looks very good!

Thanks again to you guys for helping me out

I picked up a wood classic avenge -X a few weeks back. Love the gun, but mine had a couple of defects, so it’s going back. I’m replacing it with the wood/bottle version. I found the tube to be fairly nose heavy. From the looks of things, the bottle is lighter, and sits further back.

Has anyone handled both? Is the balance difference all that notable?

Matt

The sear spring is giving me an issue. It won't engage now when at level, only if I point it down. Good thing I know a guy who can fix it! I think it needs to be just a smidge longer. It's super light pull too, so that'll add a couple ounces back to the trigger which is a good thing because it's slightly unpredictable ATM.