Hi Nate,if they caint sale ya the part?it looks like ya might be able to braze it back?Man ifen ya caint get parts i think thats off my LIST" Willy

No thank you, have Dyastate for long time I never shoot under the half tank, is just this FX has to many regulations, thanks anyway for your help, and info.

Michael.....that looked like FUN!

I thought it was a hatsan model 25 sc ..

Looks pretty darn close the same if your able to look measure or match them to be sure a good fit .

Then ask hatsan parts to send you one ..

Can't post the picture .. sorry

stergios50 said:

Good Afternoon. I want to set the regulator to 140 bar, I tried with a Chronograph but it is not accurate. How many turns of regulator screw are needed for 140 bars?

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would you be able to send a picture of your regulator? or do you know what regulator it is? without that I couldn't help you mate.

I'm using a Holosun sight on a GK1. It's mounted on a short Picatinny rail at the rear of the pistol.

I'd like to add a laser sight, preferably a low one with a Dovetail mount that can be mounted in front of (and lower than) the Holosun so as not to block the Holosun view. Also considered ordering a trigger guard with a short (under barrel) Picatinny rail from Gogun.co to hang a laser from. That would work OK but they are quite pricey ~$170US and back ordered as well.

I really like the Crimson Trace lasers with a pressure button built into the hand grips and still own three of them, but none of the CT models appear to fit the contours of the GK1. I recently ordered a 1911-style hand grip frame for the GK1 which accepts 1911 hand grip side panels from rusticindustrialcustoms dot com. It is called the 'Huben GK1 1911 Compact Officer Handle Adapter' and the website says that it 'won't work with laser grips' though. Probably because the CT 1911 laser is mounted high in the grip and would be blocked by the magazine. That's unfortunate. Those Crimson Trace laser grips are pricey but bright and intuitive to use and they don't add any extra bulges to the gun. A low-height laser sight mounted on the Dovetail rail cut into the top of the barrel shroud would prevent me from using the holster I'm using now, but that's not a show stopper as long as the view through the red dot sight isn't obstructed.

At short-range those laser sights are great for quick aiming practice (point to target and then turn on the laser to see how close you got) and so much faster to acquire than a red dot, almost instant acquisition. Those aiming drills are mostly useful in defense in scenarios but still help build muscle memory and accuracy for general use.

As an inexpensive laser sight option on my previous AEA airguns, I used one of those $5 cylindrical laser pointers (6" long x AA battery dia) and set it into the groove between the barrel and air tube. It lined up directly along the barrel and I could turn it on easily (via a little side button on the laser) as I supported the air tank with my left hand. Unfortunately, 3 of my AEA airguns died within a year of purchase and I sold two others as potentially undependable. That was a few years ago and I see that AEA/BinTac have been releasing many new powerful and innovative models since then.

So, any specific advice on a small bright laser model with a remote switch for the GK1?
And/or a way to mount it so that it can be used in conjunction with (not blocking) a Holosun red dot sight?

In the meantime maybe Crimson Trace can recommend something. The wood grips that come with the GK1 are physically large enough to hold an internal Crimson Trace style laser sight.

thanks

JP

All of the scopes I've used for FT range differently at varying temperatures....but they don't have a poi shift.

Mike

There's a rules section that will answer your questions. It's at the very bottom of the AGN home page.

$p00kygH0ST said:

Brother... That is a beautiful gun.

That stock looks self fabricated.
(If not, where did you find it)
The grips as well. I cannot stand the stock that comes on the umarex iteration.

Did you do all the parts yourself? View attachment 519378

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exactly what i said when he posted a picture of his gun a while back. it’s beautiful

During hunting, it is essential to mount your sight onto the Picatinny rail of your firearm. Different types of scopes require different types of clamps for secure attachment. In this article, we will provide a comprehensive guide on the types of clamps for compact digital scopes and the steps to properly install them.​

Picatinny Rail​

1、Definition​

The Picatinny rail is a standardized rail system primarily used on firearms to allow the attachment of various accessories. It is usually positioned on the top, bottom, or side of the firearm.

2、Specifications​

MIL-STD-1913: A U.S. military standard, formally known as Military Standard 1913, commonly referred to as the Picatinny Rail Standard.










Note: PARD's mount is compatible with MIL-STD-1913 rails.

Impact of Picatinny Rail Length on Mount​

Installation Space

The rail length determines the possible mounting range for the mount. A shorter rail may limit ideal mounting positions, affecting the angle and placement of the device. A longer rail provides more options, allowing users to adjust the mount position for optimal stability and shooting posture.

Adjustment Flexibility

A longer rail allows for easier position adjustments of the mount. Users can freely adjust the front-back position based on shooting posture, firearm balance, and required stability for an improved shooting experience. A shorter rail limits adjustment space and may require compromises within a restricted area.

Functions​

Accessory Connection: The Picatinny rail allows the mounting of various sights or accessories, such as scopes, scopes, and flashlights.

Standardized Design: The standardized design of the Picatinny rail ensures high versatility and compatibility with accessories from different manufacturers.

Enhanced Stability: Securing the scope firmly on the Picatinny rail helps ensure it remains stable during shooting, unaffected by recoil, thereby improving shooting accuracy.

Mount​

Definition​

A mount is a clamp that secures the scope to the Picatinny rail using two bolts or pins. It is designed to connect with the Picatinny rail.







Note:

1、The PARD mount is compatible with Picatinny rail widths ranging from 12 to 25.5 mm. The Picatinny rail length should be at least 49 mm.

2、Positioning Pins: Positioning pins are fasteners used for precise positioning and securing of mechanical parts, ensuring accurate relative positioning during assembly and preventing misalignment or movement.

3、Mount and Picatinny rail connection

Types​

Standard Mount: A rail-shaped mount included with screws (M6 size).

Quick-Detach Dual-Pin Mount: MT3 quick-detach rail-shaped mount, available for separate purchase.



Common Features:

Compatible with compact scopes, such as SA/008/Ocelot/NV-S4C/FT/FD.







Differences



Standard Mount: Requires screw tightening each time when the scope is mounted on the Picatinny rail.





Quick-Detach Mount: Once the scope is connected to the mount, it can be attached or removed from the rail in just one second by flipping the lever, making it highly convenient.

Installation Steps (Example: Ocelot)​

（1）Prepare the screws, Allen wrench, mount, and Ocelot device (Compact-shaped scope).

（2）Use the Allen wrench to connect the mount and scope together with the screws.

（3）Tighten the screws with Allen wrench to ensure the mount and scope are securely attached.



（4）Install the mount and scope as a whole onto the Picatinny rail of the firegun.

（5）Tighten the screws on the side of the mount to securely fix it to the Picatinny rail.

AirNGasman said:

What a great photo of The Love Of My Life.

No, I'm not talking about Derrick!

Here's another great photo of her (not so much Derrick). He's said he makes it a point to comb his hair every week or two... whether it needs it or not. Obviously this photo was taken on day 13-1/2.

View attachment 519585

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@AirNGasman He's not just content with murdering your course,leaving with all of your primo custom competition hardware, and top gift certificates. Now we have what appears to be evidence that he's buttering up the love of your life and winning her over. The nerve of that guy!!! Hey Ron, I think you better keep an eye on those two. She may be giving up bits on the inside track or something. The photo in the quoted post above may better explain the photo in post #7.

robertwalsh1981 said:

Thank you for the info, after a bunch of reading/videos on the BRK Ghost I just placed an order for with Tony at Talon Airguns for a Ghost .22 HP with a 0db 160s moderator.

I appreciate the input from everyone that took time to reply.

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You’re going to be very happy! The only bad thing about it is the trigger, it’s very heavy. Franklink has an awesome tutorial how to fix that. Just search for “ghost trigger” and you’ll find it. AEA pellets, 22 and 25gr (and 18gr as well in case you’ll stay within 50yards) and thepelletshop to order them, no need to try anything else (unless you really want to…). Lastly, clean the barrel first thing and deep, it has a coating you want to get out.

Don't know of a guide but have done the whole process using the information on the PyramydAir site schematics and the attached PDF.

It wasn't difficult to disassemble but it is hard to know which o-rings belong where without the attached PDF (which lists the size for each location)

Some of the o-rings are challenging to put in place - possible but not easy.

My gun had catastrophic leaking after a safety plug popped at 3400 PSI while filling - apparently causing a cascade of o-ring failures.

I then found that quite a few o-rings were dried out and brittle or cracking as well as some that had become square and others that had chips out of them - I was leaking from many locations.

The o-rings and a little cleaning did seal the gun back up to better than the it had been new - holding 4500 PSI for over a week.

The other part that was leaking and wasn't an o-ring was the actual shot valve - the plastic valve and the brass seat both had some damage and leaked slowly. I was able to remachine the seat back to a smooth and polished surface and it worked out OK. That valve stem was also quite rough and not moving freely in the o-rings - it was mostly dry and loosened with a little polishing and silicone. At high hammer spring settings and high power tunings, I think that the firing valve takes a bit of a beating - I will be going back in to look at it again as I reach the 3000 shot point. Putting a balloon over the end of the barrel overnight makes checking the shot valve fairly easy.

With fresh o-rings and careful tuning, I have been getting 8-shot groups with +/- 1 FPS - even running that consistently, some slugs and pellets just don't seem to like the barrel - giving wide shot groups even with very consistent speeds but other tunings and slugs and pellets are giving consistent 1/2-3/4" groups at 165' (50M) outside - and I don't have a sturdy bench or steady hands.

View attachment AVXTACT Diagram.pdf

I have found it. I guess I was correct about the grub screw. Number 4 on schematic
Thank you

I corrected it before your last post. Beat you to it.

bdzjlz said:

Very well done. Looks sharp.

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Thanks!

The Hatsan Blitz .30. I kick myself for trading it away on a Garbage AEA.

Yeah thats true. I was curious. I had two Royales in 22 that shot pellets fantastic out to 50 yds or so, but past that things got goofy.

Maybe he died.

@American Airgunner What is the FOV on that? Looks like the 2x4 on your target frame @ 50 yards is maybe 6 or 8 feet long. Would you mind confirming?

airgunmike56 said:

Good luck on the Rex that does not leak,,, Make sure to check in the morning ,,, Just a note, I have never---never seen a pointed pellet that was accurate in any PCP gun,, Now I have not shot all pellets or all air guns but thats my 2 cents worth...
Mike

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The superpoints I am just using up. I bought them with my first Airgun purchase at Tractor supply. Believe me I have accumulated many tins of various pellets and slugs to try out in my guns.
Still holding air as is the ZELOS and revere

I just use Patchworm . They are very inexpensive and work , no metal at all . when i bought mine i ordered 2 extra packs of patches in .177 and .22 . more than a year later im still using the small package that came with the kit .

weehooker said:

I just picked a 1701P up from a member here myself. I've only had it to the range once but have to say, I'm pretty impressed. I touched nothing out of the box as it was delivered, except I upgraded the grips and added a 2 min optic. Testing on my Lyman trigger scale said it had a consistent 12 oz trigger that was fairly crisp. Not "lets go to the Olympics" crisp but likely the best trigger I've ever felt on a Crosman. I also liked the front sight arrangement better than what comes on the 2300S Co2 gun. What impressed me the most though were the Chrono numbers. Running the pistol over my Garmin Zero, I was getting an average of 466FPS with only a 1.6 FPS Standard Deviation. Lastly, as tuned/delivered, I got just over 65 shots from a 200 Bar fill to the point where I noticed some velocity drop to where POI changed. Better than expected really. All in all, I feel It's a pretty cool platform if your already set up to fill PCP.

View attachment 522513

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Nice grips! And the source?

Croxton63 said:

I am grateful for the input of people who take the time to contribute to threads like these. This is the most mechanical thing I’ve done in years, and I wouldn’t have had the confidence to try it without having these online resources; Volunteers would be another way to describe them!

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We all learn this stuff together. It's a two way street. Your experiences and outcomes are a wealth of knowledge for anyone who offers advice or follows the conversation.

The guns are simple enough anyone could work on them. It's a big jump if you don't have a shop full of tools and a plumbers license. But once you dive into it It's not that bad. You just need the voice of someone who has made some mistakes to steer you away from them.

No matter what kind of air rifle you are working on there are a dozen guys here in love with one. They will know everything about it. They all want to tell you how they do it or how they did it or what they are going to do to it next.

They peck at each other and crane their leathery necks sometimes, but you will always get a wealth of information from the discussion. It's usually spot on. There is a whole bunch of experience represented here.

Does the P2 / P3 balanced valve work at low power?​

I remember reading a while ago that some members had issues with low power tunes on the RTI P2 (and maybe P3, which is similar).


At what "low" power did you have problems?
➠ Would you tell me:
▪ Gun (P2 or P3)
▪ Caliber
▪ Barrel (500mm compact or 600mm regular)
▪ FPE (or projectile weight and velocity)


Do you know how it is when your wife conscripts you to unpaid physical labor of rearranging any amount of furniture, spread over two stories in the house — only to declare to you at the end of the moving simulation:
"Well, I think I like it better how it was. Put it all back to where it was, honey."

Yeah, I'm trying to avoid a similar situation of moving 3 scopes, barrels, and retuning everything — only to discover that what I wanted to do isn't working.... "Put it all back how it was, dummy!"



Sure, if you have any other comments on the following tune, fire away!
Option 🅐:
I'm thinking of tuning a
P2
.30cal
600mm barrel
➠ 600fps with 50.15gr = 40FPE — or
➠ 550fps = 34FPE


Option 🅑:
P2
.22cal
400mm(!) barrel
➠ 800fps with 15.89gr = 23FPE



Thanks for your input!

Matthias