Umair .Please take care of yourself, rest up and feel better,its the good guys like you that make this the best air gun site going ,wishing you a speedy recovery Pat

I dont think the angle has anything to do with it since the inlet port is also angled to match the valve. But when I upgraded my .177 to .25 the inlet probe did have a notch to line it up the right angle, but it was not tight so I could turn the barrel a few mm each way so I had a bit of troubble to line it up right.

TX-Bandit said:

I used 'pew-pew' to avoid any P.C. drama. I think pew-pew became popular in the gun community when YouTube began censoring videos with firearms. If that isn't a problem here, hallelujah!. Fifty years ago I got my first air rifle, a Daisy bb gun, then a .177 Crossman pump, followed by a Benjamin .22 air rifle. A couple years ago I picked up a Gamo Swarm Whisper that has been a lot of fun, but cocking the rifle more than a few times plays hell with my arthritis, hence the move to PCP.

Yeah, 'savings' might be a misnomer. Between the rifle, the suppressor, the tank, the compressor, the scope, etc., I could have added another cartridge rifle or maybe a couple of cases of ammo. I agree the real advantage is trigger time. I can practice every day and, because it is so quiet, not bother a soul.

P.S. - Thank you all for the warm welcome!

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Trigger time. You nailed it.

I love to sit (or stand) and shoot for hours. I never get enough. With an air rifle, you can shoot until you don't want to shoot anymore every day of the week and still afford groceries.

If you can step out your back door with a glass of iced tea and hammer away for hours with an accurate rifle it really dosent matter if it's goes boom, bang or piff.

I get a huge kick out of the air rifle hits on shotgun shells, green army men and toy dinosaurs. You can get more creative with your targets with an air rifle, and the result downrange is even better than centerfire.

You can afford to miss a lot trying to hit really challenging targets too. That teaches lessons that are very difficult and expensive to learn with a powder rifle. I can shoot 250 shots a day for many days running. A guy shooting a powder gun couldn't buy enough ammo and barrels to support a shot count like that. It's easy with a few tins of pellets and an air rifle.

MikeVV said:

Hey Steve -

Thanks for the comments, but.
I don't agree that the M32 is used for "air gun" barrels. Maybe for .22 firearms, or other lower power firearms, but not for airguns.

Reasons -
1 - I've cut a few mid and high end, air gun barrels. Pretty soft, that is easy to cut. M32 is not so easy.
2 - Way too many people warn of using brass bristled brushes in air gun barrels so they ae not damaged. There would be, no...problem with this, if M32 was used. I have not tried the brass brushes, as I don't want to ruin any barrels.
But, I do have a short section of a barrel that I recently cut off. I'll get out my firearm brushes and small bore measuring tools and...give it a try...

My background is Aerospace and Automotive building. I have a reasonable understanding of a lot of standard materials, and a couple of not so standard materials. This is mostly the reason that I ask the question, just to gain more knowledge.

Thanks

Mike

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You are correct about M32 not being used for air gun barrels, but that that was not your question. You asked about barrels, not air gun barrels. M32 is the preferred alloy for hammer forged barrels in the annealed state. It is the alloy Heckler & Koch uses on their firearms. After hammering they are then sent out for heat treatment, which often warps the barrels. After returning to the factory, they are inspected and straightened as necessary before final assembly.The advantage provided are barrels good for 25,000 rounds without wear. Air gun barrels do not require that level of durability because of the soft lead munitions , low heat of the propellent and low velocity. I would also like to know what fX uses as their barrels are also forged.

I do not thing a brass bore brush will damage an air gun barrel, nor do I think they are necessary either. A cotton or paper swab is more than enough for cleaning.

It's only 1 shot at max power right , and then it drops down after that.

TnCnDn said:

Nice Pic wow!

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I put these same photos on the “Ten Meter Scoped Thread” as well. The two target photos are from when I put a scope on the LG400.

rc4fun said:

That's a fancy table. Where did you get the hold down for the tank?

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I have had the bracket for years. From a co2 tank from my Jeep. You can get it from powertank.com

Pyramyd Air is now showing a few Embarks back in stock. I've got one coming my way.

I recently worked with Tom at Vortek and created a kit for this R8. It's shooting nicely without twang between 8.5 and 9.5 fpe. It cocks a little harder than my Hw30s and considerably easier than my 50. Despite having the roughest cut leade I've seen and no choke this gun is crazy accurate. Still I'm not in love with it. There's a couple minor idioscyncrosies that bother my OCD. I Probably should of gone with a modern Hw50 (Hw99) and taken some spring out it. It certainly would have been less expensive. I'm in need of an Rekord intermediate sear to fix the safety if anyone has an extra. Once that's fixed I'll likely be putting it up for trade in the classifieds if that's allowed.

Be well all
Ron

These guns get some shade due to the cost to shoot but in certain situations they could be just right. Somebody that small game hunts a few times a year or for occasional pest control they'd be great. Hunting all day for the cost of a fast food meal ain't so bad.

Up close" x-ring" rubber in .45 clocks some fps!

John

Headshots said:

When I collect data with a chronograph I usually target shoot as well . I've never noticed a change in velocity until it falls off the reg.

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Balanced.

ebay has some good used ones right now and its safe to buy from

My five shot group this evening, confirming zero for some nighttime ratting. Argos HMR 2-12x44 with a simple red light attached. Also did some indoor shooting at 8-10 yards to confirm holdovers at those distances… I currently have a Zulus atop my primary Atomic, but the fact is the vast majority of my rats kills have been with a simple red light… Alas, she got wind of the new situation and demanded a impromptu plinking session…. Hence the foolish ice massacre video… Atomic XR with Zulus atop…

There’s a guy on here that ran a 1 3/16”-16 tap thru the stock threads and was able to install a mil-spec side folder.

Thats the way to do it...scoped and iron, quick to grab other gun!

So I've tried taking the valve stem down to .090 in a dynamic and removed the return spring for some good power out of it running a tungsten hammer I did the same for the drs but left the spring in well the drs ended bending I belive it bottomed out the spring the dynamic is still running strong over a year now and putting out big power the harder it's leaned on higher reg pressure and more hammer spring and heavier slugs if your going to try this mod leave the spring out and you have less problems

oh i have an IZH46m and 2 model FWB 65 and a FWB 90 and 4 Diana model 10 and 9 Diana model 6's
been working on a cocking aid for the Diana model 6 but i keep changing my mind
i have a Aeron B96 and a Chameleon 4 and 5 and on and on
i have no shortage of stuff to shoot and i have no problem cock my FWB pistol but i like my Diana model 10's better

The Springer class has been constantly shrinking. HW97 or TX200 would be the gun to have if you want to be competitive at it, but there may not be anyone in your area shooting that division. Show up and shoot what you have. See how it goes.

Hey there, fellow airgunners! I have an Umarex Origin and was doing some work on it because the EPT appeared to be acting up a bit. I degassed it to try to release a little of the tube pressure and get it to move a little more. Anyway I have started to strip the degassing screw (luckily I was able to get it fully screwed in) and wanted to know if anyone knew of a replacement part site outside of contacting Umarex. I hear that their customer service is horrendous!

Thanks!

I couldn't find a maintenance section on AGN so am throwing it out to the PCP guys.
I have a Gen 1. Kalibrgun Cricket. The HST is stuck in it's channel and, it being made of plastic, is now stripping when trying to remove.
I've tried adding a little penetrating Kroil to soak into the threads but no dice.

Drill it out?
Use Weldwood epoxy and "glue" in an Allen key?

Any recourse anyone can think of?

Thanks

If you go to fxairguns.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/royale.pdf all the royale part numbers are shown with diagram.
another way to find it is seartch fx royale valve and seat. Then scroll down to A B C - fx airguns. click on that.
They say which parts are for with or without regulator .
Hope it helps.
Its your pictures of the different valves that got me looking for parts lists in the first place. I put a huma reg. in a non regulated regale and am having a hard time getting any power out of it. I never thought that might be my problem having too small of a valve so i ordered those parts for a regulated gun.

great looking rifles! Im looking for a good 30cal

I primarily use Patch Worm and Gunzilla works the best for actually grabbing onto and pulling lead out. When you pull Balistol through it’s VERY slippery and easy to pull the patch. When using Gunzilla is very grabby a noticeably more difficult to pull. It’s night and day different.

Peashooter said:

Yes i would so shoot .22 if i could, so many more options.
I would probably also have a even bigger caliber PCP, but then it would just be 1

Smaller calibers do make sense when you are on a limited budget like a pension, and also not forgetting we only have 125 M or so of range, but i am sure a .22 would give me higher and more consistent accuracy within that.
I have seen people shoot .22 pellets at 100 yards as good if not better than i shoot .177 slugs. that is very alluring.

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One thing I like about the .177 10gr slugs is that my Vet compact shoots them as well or better than 10.3gr pellets and has excellent expansion at 18fpe . Plus all the benefits of a lower bc with slugs than pellets . I can get dimes at 50y with my Maverick using Hybreds or 17.5gr NSAs but much smaller groups and better consistently with AEA or JTS 25.4gr pellets . So I keep it as a 47 fpe pellet shooter. I don't shoot much at 100y but it was fun when I tried and got around 1.5" with 18gr pellets. I'm sure the 25.4s would group better . Part of the fun , for me, is figuring things out and finding those nuggets.