Corvid_hunter said:

I've used the 1 ton press with the GMI dies. 2 ton would be better I'm guessing, but it works.

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I think if you're a big guy then the 1 ton would be fine.

I'm not a big guy and found the 2 ton worked fantastic in comparison. Though one needs to be careful to make sure everything is aligned well so as to not damage the tip former that gets pushed into the die actual.

Happy new year!
I followed what Garry said about the vendor 'Topdeep' and found it. But it doesn't look like a genuine one at Amazon. There is no metal plate on the other side of the machine cover. The specs are kind of incomplete and so on. If I want to stay with YH, I will go to Aliexpress.com. The machines there look genuine and shipped from the factory where YH machines are manufactured. Another option: forget about YH, what about Vevor? It looks like Vevor uses YH parts and put them together into a machine, called 'Vevor'. It's a YH by nature. Correct? I guess they are more decent than the YH clones, agree? Besides, it's cheap. At Ebay, it will cost about $161 with free chipping (my wife and I went to an Italian restaurant yesterday for lunch and it costed us $145 ($120 plus $25 tips)). The only thing that I am worried about is that I didn't see any options of warranty. I will talk to the vendor if I am serious to buy.
Thanks again guys, for your info!

I had a similar situation, I was able to reassemble the innards, but had miss-assembled one layer so the end cap would not fit.
Contacted STO and they solved the issue via email.
Good experience with STO.

mike

Currently they have the 635r available with 35mm lens and 1.5x mag, but are coming out with the tnc650r which will have a 50mm lens and 2x base mag.

Anyone have any info on when it will come out and cost?

Im in the market for a thermal scope and surprisingly from the videos I’ve seen the tnc335r somehow looks better/sharper than the tnc635r. Before I pull the trigger on the 335r would like to know a little bit more info on the soon to be released tnc650r.

@keith1 Look up info on improving the trigger! Shoot a couple 100 pellets first.

Bernie7 said:

Btw DonnyFL and Saber Tactical are essentially the same company (or at least I’m 99% sure)

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When it’s talked about it’s always so vague, but yes I think you’re right.

So i ended up buying this beauty! At least in my eyes it looks good.

Any recommendations for scope and rings? Prefer a 24x scope that is light weight too. FFP or SFP doesn’t matter because I shoot at fixed magnification.

Can I get away with a 50mm objective scope and low mounts?

It's amazing the hills we are willing to die on.

For me, I don't care if it's mil or moa, it's all potential precision, not actual precision.

You'll have to remove the nut behind the glass to get actual precision.

Theoben Eli. said:

These new piston seals are 34.8mm
Thats way to for mine eli they are 34.4mm.
Im thinking you must make them fit

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Can always remove material, can't add to it...

Hi guys

can someone tell me how long is his/hers original 290cc aluminum cylinder? i want to relace it with a huge 700cc carbon cylinder 300bar which is 41cm long but would like to know how long is the original one..
i don't have my gun yet, i just ordered online yesterday (here in Germany) and will not see it for good 2 weeks..

i want to up my shot count by a lot (50-60 shots) because with the original cylinder i get 20 shots if lucky running 50-60gr pellets/slugs..

i want the 700cc for the air capacity but i also hate the way a 600mm barrel looks with a short 480cc bottle- it looks so exposed and thin..

i want to fill that gap and hope the 700cc bottle which measures 41cm will fill that gap right up to the muzzle..

Lewis said:

Somehow I expected to see a reference to our old member YO! previously Odoyle.

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YO!

Lol...

Hi. Has anybody made compact version of deltawolf? with 300cc bottle and short barrel?

Like a BRK ghost compact

Thank you for the discount! I ordered some parts and received them in perfect condition in only 3 days!

Chukar60 said:

I did the same thing with my 600mm Maverick 22 liner. After spending several hours trying to get it to shoot like it used to I gave up and ordered a new liner and dozen of the O rings that were on the liner from the factory.
Maybe they work better without bonding them, but the CF liner I got was loose enough that it moved up and down the liner easily. I didn’t want it sliding up and down the liner so bonded it with epoxy. Maybe that was my mistake?

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Best use I found for the CF liner was to push the orings back down the barrel in an attempt to space them to get it back to shooting as it did originally. Which it never did which lead to trying the bonded method, regret ever taking it apart to begin with. You would really think FX would test and add these liners at the factory instead of peddling them as a do it yourself improvement. As you can see I'M NOT OVER IT YET, lol.

Chukar60 said:

If you are adjusting the regulator down You need to remove the bottle then dry fire it until you hear the plenum bleeding down. Wait until the plenum gauge reads zero. Then you can adjust the reg down. Another way to get it to bleed the plenum is to adjust the reg screw counter clockwise slowly until you hear the plenum losing air. Again, wait until the plenum gauge reads zero before adjust ing the reg down.
If you are just dialing the Macro or Micro wheel, no just make sure the gun is not cocked.

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Thank you.

The grub screws on the breech locks the barrel in place, if anything the clamp on the end will just slows things down if you happen to losen the grub screws while under pressure turning it into a spear gun.

Troy Bakel said:

The "Aerodynamic Jump" diagrams only apply to the projectile+chamber+bore+crown combination that does not result in "Lateral Throwoff" due to projectile in bore yaw or weight assymmetry.

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Aerodynamic jump diagrams apply to just what they say they are, aerodynamic jump. By definition, everything you mention does not affect aerodynamic jump in any way, which is purely down to the gyroscopic reaction of the projectile to the aerodynamic moments produced by a cross wind.

Today I tried my "clone" of Ed Canoles barrel tweaker on my HW30 at 20 yards. It was shooting low and to the left, but today it was mostly low and a little to the left, POA to POI with
the Sightron S1 optically centered. This is the first time I've ever tried bending a barrel, and it wasn't too bad, a lot of trial and error type thing.

Barrel tweaker I finished yesterday.


Here was the first attempts this morning

Then after several more adjust and shoot, repeat.
I ended up at less than 1/2" POA to POI with my optically centered Sightron, so, I'm pleased with that result.

No bluing was harmed in this experiment.
Next up, I'll try another go with the oring piston seal when it's warmer outside.

Trucker3573 said:

This is the best option. Fx-idis is a real thing. Everyone thinks they need to add a bunch of stuff that will have you back here with even more problems before they even shoot the gun. It’s amazing

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It is the epidemic that keeps on giving. Never a shortage of folks on the forum wanting to know how to create issues with their guns.

That's funny. Just waiting for these guys to get in from hunting and reply on this post! Because after all why have the king and not hunt something!

I've done quite a bit of business with them and Nick is above average.

Glad you got it sorted.

-- Matt

and that was it, well it is cheap enough at 75 buck all could have one

Thank you i worked it out, have a merry christmas, cheers

Very nice, I'm going to be tuning mine to Zan 25.5gr slugs at about 920fps.

The last monthly match for 2025 is now posted on the club website


Merry Christmas everyone!