Great review, but still i prefer the looks of the old one !

Wow nice video. TY for posting Rob

I have heard comments that the zelos internals aren't rated for 4600 psi. Thats why you need one of these. Thatales sense. I'm just curious if anyone has tried. Are they only seeing some regulator creep? Or is it more concerning than that?

GX CS4

JimD said:

Buck Rail offers a printed moderator that had metal 1/2 20 threads and is in sections. You can use only as many sections as you need to make your gun quiet. I have one on my Prod with a couple sections. It has a tapered end (or is available that way).

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MongooseV8 said:

Where are the pics of that stock? Glad everything worked out for you, I know how nerve racking it is to have a missing package worth so much money.

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Will take a nice one tomorrow

ToddGeddes63 said:

Yes, unless you are referring to the AGN forum gate keepers.

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Eh I posted a reply and deleted it. I should clarify, if you saw my reply, I was thinking of the wrong website. Literally forgot what website I am on right now. Lol. Another forum that comes to mind is terrible…

I've used ANSgear at https://ansgear.com/ they have some nice stuff for under $30 and are great to work with if you have issues.

SteveV said:

Best of luck with that one....

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Haa did you have one.
What a piece of junk.
I thought Hatsan had a decent mid priced reputation.
This gun should embarrass them .
Going back but it’s got to go to Krale.
To think this is about $180 less than my very nice , good shooting , well made, beautiful Reximex rpa

RabbitofCaerbannog said:

we told you, the band is not your friend. Whichever direction the band goes, so goes the barrel. and if youre as obsessive about it as I am, it will NEVER look correct to you. The barrel will not droop. I have a 600mm barrel and its fine even with a big old can on the end.

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i know you did but the dealer included the band himself

i did not pay for it although it costs 36euros on his site

i will take that stupid crap down tomorrow

RabbitofCaerbannog said:

You remove shroud, then remove brass nut that the liner goes through which is threaded into the liner lock, then pull out the liner. There should be several orings on the liner as well as a little metal bushing just unscrew the black part from the brass tp assembly when the liner is out. It's really simple.

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Hallo my friend- i realized today that i am getting a little too deep into this tuning because if i have to put it back to restricted version it will be that much harder...

mostly this V2 transfer port is for me too much forth and back.. so it will do without the v2 transfer port

so, i will except less power for the convenience of quicker rebuilt...

now you noticed yesterday that my spring is maxed out and i still can not overcome the pressure in the reg because that's what it is when i max my tensioner and can not come to point where my fps start dropping (meaning i overpowered the reg pressure side with hammer spring tension)

so i will just get the tuning spring and hammer weight and that first item you sent me ink to does that- offers the spring, weights and a probe

sounds like a good compromise?

and one more thing- i already bought the valve seat so might as well put that in or compare to mine, maybe mine in the gun is same as the one i bought- i will see..

TheCrazyPreacher said:

New to this forum. I just bought this working Sheridan Silver Streak for $50. I think I got a good deal. Based on a site I came across it was made between June 1956 and May 1961. It pumps up great and holds air. I’m assuming it fires just fine but som .20 caliber pellets are on the way so I’ll know shortly how it shoots. I’m wondering should I just clean and sell as is or is it worth paying someone to restore. I do enjoy squirrel hunting and may keep this awhile but buy/selling/trading and sometimes restoring is how I make extra money. Any input would be appreciated.

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Welcome AGN, with a classic Sheridan, and a great acquisition!

Forgive me I was falling asleep researching your Siverstreak stats last night, but here are the results.

Your's Silverstreak has the high comb stock, and crecent butt pad, that tells us that it's prior to 1959 when the low comb stock was introduced.
So, the missing the hole in the right side of the receiver, was removed from the design mid to late 1956, and you do indeed have the screw on rear sight, with the dimples, which was introduced mid 1956. So, that gives you your aproximate age, from the manufacring dates of between mid to late 56 to early 59. There are no other design changes within those dates.

The plastic hand guards weren't introduced until 1962, so someone may have added that to help protect the finish or if it were sent in for work, Sheridan may have added it.

I'd say you're safe to call it a 57 Silverstreak!

Pea-shooter O.G. said:

28!!! Thats a great turnout! Do you know if everyone that wanted to go were able to? Or was that the maximum the USA could get registered?

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I believe we were alloted 30 spots but I am not certain. If that was the case then everyone who wanted to go is in. The whole process has to be done through AAFTA so one of our fine AAFTA representatives may know the answer.

steve123 said:

For a springer I wonder if anyone has tried double stick tape around the tube cut so as not to be seen when in the rings?? I tend too use 18 inlbs torque on ring screws.

I sold my springers because of the scope slipping issues, but also the action screws vibrating loose, etc, so not a concern anymore.

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It's a struggle for sure. The thin double sided "tile tape" works good but the glue migrates out and is messy. I was always wiping the glue off.. especially in hot weather. And sooner or later the scope would start rotating.

I just got rid of the optics on most of mine and shoot them open sights. At airgun ranges it's (almost) as precise and much less hassle. At the moment I've only got one scoped air rifle...the one without open sights. I've got it glued in there with lacquer and it's been stable for many Hundreds of shots.

From my experience a scope on a springer is constant problems. Sooner or later it twists, slips or the POI shifts. Thermal shift is real. Getting a rail low enough with some drop compensation is a challenge. You wind up with $100 invested in mounts and rails that put the scope up too high or your cranking up the elevation to compensate. Optics on a springer have been one issue after the other. When you finally get it figured out and working right the scope takes a dump on you.

Open sights sidestep that whole circus. I can shoot thousands of trouble free shots for cheap. I've decided not to spend any more on optics and shoot the springers bare.

Rebuild is easy enough. GO for it!!

mike

i've got to say i am a little jealous....usps has been holding my panthera since the 4th for bad weather...funny ups and amazon have both delivered tho...

steve-l said:

It is not necessary to remove the barrel from the frame to clean it. I degas by firing the gun after removing the end cap and placing a stout rag over the end and firing the gun. The spring and bits will fly out into the rag and be captured. The tank will then completely vent to zero safely. Then remove the magazine and clean the barrel to your heart's content.

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My process is about the same, but I remove just the spring, then reinstall the back plate, the dry fire. This way, there are no parts to fly out and reinstall later.

To reverse the process, open the back plate, reinstall the spring, close it up again, and that's it!

The is a technique that I learned from the HUMA regulator installation instructions. This is, by far, the best technique to degas the gun, in my opinion.

ToddGeddes63 said:

Good on you for reusing the materials! looks good.

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Very nice, but what about your lefty shooting buddy? Lol.

No. I firmly believe if a guys gun is “all that“ when it comes to accuracy and consistency, you don’t change anything. There’s nothing more to search for unless you want to make a big jump or reduction in power. When I achieve that and want to play again, I buy another gun. Sometimes the same model just so I can experiment. But I have and currently am hopping back and forth between two slugs out of my U2 .30. But when one finally emerges as the winner, I’m done. Time to put the gun to work.

Sleestak said:

Is the current version spinlock bottle & the non-spinlock Talon receiver compatable?

Everything Ive read has said yes....but coming here for facts is it true?

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Yes but use only the parts aviable directly from AF .. you will still need to drill the set screw for the bottle colar .. I have made this in 3 of my older frames .

PCB said:

Yay found the problem. The oring between the bolt carrier and valve body was squashing into and restricting the port. This happened even on countless disassembles and reassemblies. I took the barrel out to look down the grub screws hole to see what was going on. Eventually made my own washer out of a rubber glove and that's working perfectly. I'm at 12ftlb now. Happy camper

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Glad you found the issue and thanks for the follow up resolution

Good point - Thank you

I tried to attach the DryPac to the AEA compressor. Unfortunately I didn’t find a way to assemble it, as in my view the hoses have different thread pitches. Although the diameter fits, it cannot be tightened without destroying the thread. Is anybody experiencing the same issue and did you find a solution?
Also fitting it to fill my M4, I'll need different tubing and/or adapters I guess...

357cal said:

Thank you for all the info on this coolant, I will order it very soon.

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Be sure to check the Purple Ice.