Dan B said:

WOW!!! All the information response is like attending an Airgun seminar!! I will print this. Thank you very much.

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Knowing your equipment and purpose would help.

I was looking for info like this when I bought my first PCP. The folks here at AGN told me that I needed a chronograph to troubleshoot and see issues.so I bought an FX pocket chrony.

My use was plinking, and I was very dissatisfied with my new rifle. It was unregulatd, and the point of impact would fall for each shot. The chrony just showed the same thing in fps.
Studying it, I found that the model I had came with an adjustable hammer tension that could be set lighter so that hammer didn't release as much air. The higher the gun pressure, the harder it is for the hammer to open the valve. This is the principle used to regulate an unregulated gun, as well as one of the building blocks of adjusting a regulated gun.
With a lighter hammer weight, less.air is released, so you start with a lower fps.
As the pressure drops, the hammer over comes it releasing more air, increasing fps to a max point, and then the pressure and fps drop.

My goal with this info was to to get the highest shot count in the optimum accuracy range.
The fps change was pretty great here so, what if I wanted to hunt ?
There are about 8 shots at the top of the string at the highest power level with a good fpe. More fpe could probably be had with more adjusting, but the shot count would likley drop, and it is almost a full mag at the current setting.
So I would have to note the pressure of the gun at the point where those shots start and set that pressure, then I would have one mag of the most consistent and powerful shots that the gun is capable of.

Its all in the soup ingredients.

Airgun-hobbyist said:

It looks good with the wood stock @Emu but, it probably feels unbalanced with all the weight to the rear. Maybe a tight firting steel barrel sleeve over the original barrel? From what I have read, the steel sleeve would also benefit barrel harmonics.

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I've got the same stock on mine. It doesn't exactly feel unbalanced, but it does feel somewhat awkward. From the top of the scope turret to the bottom of the pistol grip it measures right around 12". It makes for a rifle that's not particularly quick handling or pointable. It is quite accurate though and it hits hard.

subscriber said:

The heat of compression adds to the energy of the pellet with springers, because heat increases pressure of the air. PCP heat of compression is lost at the compressor or hand pump, so much less efficient than a springer. In compensation, PCPs are easier to shoot, because they don't bounce around (especially challenging with springers, because they bounce before the pellet leaves the barrel).

By the time the air in a springer barrel leaves the muzzle it will have cooled substantially, reducing the pressure. The fact that springer pistons bounce before the pellet leaves the muzzle also reduces muzzle pressure.

Break-barrel springers tend to have longer barrels than they need to produce max velocity considering their tiny volume of compressed air. This is for leverage, as the barrel doubles as a cocking handle. Thus, springers can be very quiet.

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The affect of piston bounce wasn’t something that I had even considered, but it makes perfect sense.

Star7 said:

They don't call him hateful
McNasty fer nuttin!!

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Needs to learn how to spell and write too
It took me less than 5 minutes to find them again.

One of a kind lovely rifle that now shoots!

baranjhn said:

you need to add a hyphen.

Example: if your serial number is xx1234, input it as xx-1234

some of the earliest Huntsmans aren’t in there. Also, you can just add the numbers and letters and scroll through the results

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Thank you .. one little hyphen. There it is!

MAUMAU said:

It's too cold to be shooting your new Skout!

Send it to me and I'll keep her safe and warm in the Land of Swaying Palm Trees

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Lol. Thats what indoor ranges are for up here.

I contacted the dealer I purchased the valve from, they would have returned or replaced it if I wanted to but they were out of stock.

I kept it and bought an Outgun digital gauge.


I installed it on the valve today.

Here are some pictures of the Outgun gauge compared to the SA bottle pressure gauge and Joe Brancato gauge on my alpha filter.














This is what the back of the defective gauge looks like.



I have only used clean dry air !



The Outgun digital gauge is a definite improvement.

Now I have confidence when I fill my DRS rifles I am not overfilling.

EMrider said:

If you are confident that you will eventually get an FAC, then buying sub 12fpe and converting to FAC power later should be easy to do and will work out fine. But if for whatever reason you need to remain sub 12fpe, an hw80 in .22 is going to be a lousy shooting package IMHO. Good

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EMrider said:

If you are confident that you will eventually get an FAC, then buying sub 12fpe and converting to FAC power later should be easy to do and will work out fine. But if for whatever reason you need to remain sub 12fpe, an hw80 in .22 is going to be a lousy shooting package IMHO. Good luck.
R

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British importers of weihrauch disagree with this hysterically. I've not shot it so I can't say. But my mate has the 99s so ill have chance to shoot both side by side and make my own assumptions on that I guess. Many thanks

Never knew altitude effected air gun performance.

I prefer a gig over gun, less escapes.

MikeVV said:

Prime -

I'm not sure what you are trying to show, but from what it looks like, for using a dot sight correctly...it's VERY wrong !!

The dot can be ANYWHERE, within the window, and as long as the dot is over the target, you will hit. High centered, lower right corner...it DOESN'T matter !!!…



Mike

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You don’t say? I was unaware of this. I’ll have to try it.

danimal4789 said:

Hi, I was wondering if any BRAND NAME air rifle manuf. makes a old style pump air rifle

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To answer your question emphasizing 'makes' (as in NOW), yes; Crosman, Benjamin, Daisy, Seneca, and perhaps some lesser-known brands.

Vana2 said:

An image can be loaded into InkScape (a free vector graphics program) and converted to a vector graphics (SVG) file that can be used to create the Gerber files required to drive a laser or CNC machine.

You could convert the whole image or just select what parts you wanted and step&repeat them into the matrix you want.

The SVG (Scaleble Vctor Graphics) files can be easily scaled to any size without loosing any quality or accuracy.

Cheers!

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I translate the image out to a dxf file and then bring into Solidworks where I can manipulate it as required before sending it for laser cutting

Yes, to answer your question. Most Lazer shops have the abilityto scan a piece of material like that. If you need a scale up or scale down to be able to do it after the scan is made. Or if you’re able to locate whoever originally did that and they give you a DFX file of the project. you should be able to send it anywhere and get it cut out. To play such as Send cut send

Cloud9AG said:

That chrony on the end of the barrel can change POI and group size too. You should test group sizes without it.

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How true , I did know that about barrel tuners and the like shooting 22lr benchrest. Last week received a cheap Aliexpress chrony to replace old green shooting chrony that won’t work inside. Been shooting with that. So it was warm enough to go out today to my 33 yard range . Had the barrel chrony on . I’m trying to remember from 2 hours ago but it was an inch high.

EPG said:

thanks for confirming.

-Ed

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You're welcome

Nice rebuild, looks clean and shiny.

Thanks Billhill! Looks like a great source!

Trucker3573 said:

I went with a digital optic. My main use was daytime use and hey you can record so that’s cool and they seem to be the new hype. I got a really good deal on the nv400 with all the bells and whistles. Just my opinion which I point out differs from most, I was extremely disappointed. The digital QUICKLY gets pixelated when you start to zoom and looks like pretty quickly especially in comparison to regular glass of the same price. Also in the woods you are in and out of areas that have different lighting. The scope just doesn’t keep up even when set to where darkness and contrast are supposedly automatic. Just looks like a digital camera that the settings are just a bit off and that is most of the time. Plus I can’t figure out how to get the files recorded to my iPhone camera roll. They can only stay in the files folder . That is no big deal as I don’t use the scope much. Lol. The thing does what it supposed to in the night though. Two thumbs up . In the daytime I like a 400-500 dollar regular glass scope about 10000000000000000000000 times more.

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I watched all the reviews, understand the clarity difference. But, give me low light and night vision, I’m there.

Great mod and group

that is great, I was about to trade in the X-Sight HD and upgrade to the newer version but after reading this you convinced me to re-think that.

Centercut said:

It looks like it will be a very competitive gun, and the base price is about $2399. Not sure why I see grumbling about the DS guns with regard to price, but not a peep about the Thomas or AAA, both of which are more expensive. Let see how this new gun does at the range before we start grinding it down...

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Centercut said:

It looks like it will be a very competitive gun, and the base price is about $2399. Not sure why I see grumbling about the DS guns with regard to price, but not a peep about the Thomas or AAA, both of which are more expensive. Let see how this new gun does at the range before we start grinding it down...

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I am really hoping it’s successful. Competition is good for the industry. I just wish it was more attainable for the masses. From the specs it doesn’t possess more than what is currently out there but it sure is sexy looking.

Man my .457.......been flawless.....i hope it stays that way.

ksblank said:

Wish there is an option for the cocking lever on the right side and also an option to have the pellet clip stick out the left side of the rifle. which would be perfect for a left hand shooter.

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The pellet clip stick of the Mora can go to the left or to the right, and it's really easy to do.